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mooch
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 11, 2006 - 05:54pm PT
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Jan -
"I still get on hard slab once in a while."
Didn't you really mean....."I still get a hard on once in a while."
See you at Courtright ;)
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 11, 2006 - 06:57pm PT
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Who the heck is Mooch? Nah, I get those nearly every day. After all, I climb in gyms now days.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 11, 2006 - 07:27pm PT
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bvb: You are the man with the killer pics. (Hey dude, I’m bouldering to get ready for ya...)
Regarding the earlier grade compression comments about older routes: more like grade inflation has made them look compressed. Changing the ratings won’t change the reality of their difficulty.
As Largo once told KP when talking about a dicey move at the end of a long runout:
[KP] Man, if you pitched from there…
[JL] You don’t pitch from there.
[KP] But, what if you did pitch from there?
[JL] You don’t.
[KP] But, if you did p…
[JL] You don’t!
[KP] Yeah, bu…
[JL] Ho Man! You just DON’T pitch from there!
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mooch
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 11, 2006 - 08:03pm PT
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Here's a hint Jan:
The better half is in Iraq.
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 11, 2006 - 08:05pm PT
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I would not disagree about the ratings Henny, but I feel that they will get re-rated at some point because the world has moved on and those things are not the same difficulty, by today's standards, than a sport route with a similar rating is. It will be another generation of climbers that make those decisions though, so it doesn't really matter what we think.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 11, 2006 - 08:07pm PT
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love the slab talk...
...it's not even that you "don't fall" when I climb slab, I am concentrating on moving, nothing else. When I am in the zone the bolt appears in my constrained field-of-view, I clip it, and keep moving. I don't look to the next bolt, I don't look at the last bolt, I just move.
Gary was starting up a slab route at the base of Tollhouse Rock a few winters ago, and lost it... he slid down, maybe 10 to 12 feet standing up. When he stepped off the slab at the ground we smelled burning rubber. No shit!
Anyone done Demimonde 5.11c The Royal Arches Serenity Crack Area FA 1991, Eric Mayo, Andy Roberts, Dave Caunt, Rick Harlin?
My toes hurt from that jewel... didn't even get to the hard part. You can TR it after climbing Trial By Fire 5.8, a nice little offwidth pitch.
Don't see many people on either of these routes much.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Jul 11, 2006 - 08:10pm PT
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My partner Richard Aschert and I did a new 13a/b slab route in the S. Platte a few years back. It also has 12b/c and 12a slab pitches.
Seems pretty hard to me.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 11, 2006 - 08:40pm PT
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Yea, I did Demimonde with Eric Mayo way back when. It was hard. R. Harlin was on that one with Caunt and Eric? Surprises!
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Karen
Trad climber
Good question?
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Jul 12, 2006 - 12:42am PT
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I admire individuals who can climb hard slabs ANYDAY over sport routes!!! It always irks me when I hear certain types call slab climbing, "stink bugging"... seems anyone with some training can get up over-hanging jug routes, put em' on slabs and they will piss their Pranas !!!!
Hall of Mirrors....WOW...remember an article years back on this route in one of the climbing mags, it has been a climb that has held alure for me, beautiful slabs that seems to go on forever. Then the first time I saw Pywiak dome in T-Meadows, I knew I had to climb the routes on that dome~did~amazing !!! The Dike route, Needle Spoon, even that easy route Z-Tree was fun....
Woody and I climbed the first pitch of Crimes of Passion on Tahquitz last weekend and I tell ya' it sure seemed harder than 10b, it felt more like a D.
also, have to make a comment on "face" climbing with crimper holds, I just cannot call that "slab", to me a slab is pure friction, I am sure someone will disagree...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 12, 2006 - 02:12am PT
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I hate to give my secrets away but Galactic Hitchiker is a really fun route with only 3 or 4 kinda dicey or lead out sections that should trouble a solid 5.10 leader much.
Short approach, 26 pitches if you run them together, hitchhike down from Glacier point to descend
Topo and TR's on my website in the freeclimbing trip reports section
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/TripReportfree.html
Peace
Karl
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 12, 2006 - 02:20am PT
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I heard somewhere that the Bachar Yerian might get chopped!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 12, 2006 - 02:25am PT
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Here's some hand drilling on the first pitch of "Mid-Life Crisis" in the Arches Terrace Area:
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 12, 2006 - 02:32am PT
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Somewhere on the apron. 1975.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 12, 2006 - 02:41am PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 12, 2006 - 02:51am PT
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Midlife Crisis was great, until the second pitch with the, now very rusty, hangers... came down without pushing through happy to get the first pitch many years ago (maybe 5?).
Cool to see the bolts going in...
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 12, 2006 - 04:04am PT
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So many bolts on the second pitch of M-L Crisis that the quantity outweighs the pseudo-objective danger. One quarter-inch bolt can break, but two, almost never, three, impossible
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 12, 2006 - 11:17am PT
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....I know, I was telling myself that, over and over, but the mind is a funny thing, at least mine is, and once you get that little worm in there churning 'round 'n 'round, it can be difficult to go on. There is a long trail of bolts, and it should be fine, up until the second unclips the last one and the team is dependent on the anchor bolts.
There I go again...
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 12, 2006 - 11:35am PT
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I'm telling you, a lot of folks would be in for a very rude awakening if they went to Suicide and jumped up a couple of those Henny routes, done about 25 years ago now.
Also, there's a route on Royal Arches called Greasy but Groovy that had some sensational slab climbing and on-the-lead bolting. Wonder if anyone ever does this one. Those bolts are like coffin nails now. You should have seen Ricky Accomazzo out on the lead on that one--sometimes fifty feet above the last bolt on 5.10, and liking it.
JL
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Jul 12, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
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I gotta agree that thin face and slab are two different things, though it's always so hard to judge actual angle from pics. I know it's a blurry line between steep 5.hard slab and 5.12 thin face, but to me the distinguising factor is whether the cruxes are accomplished through megacrimping or footwork. Does that make sense to anybody else?
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 12, 2006 - 12:07pm PT
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That makes sense. You know your really slab climbing when your smearing with your feet and pushing with your palms instead of crimping edges.
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