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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Dec 18, 2009 - 12:09am PT
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Dec 18, 2009 - 12:23am PT
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Slabs are a great equalizer for the tall and the small.
I will follow anyone on a slab, It's that run-out leading....I'll leave that to the bolder and more flexible.
A perfect climb has lots of variety - including a slab section.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Dec 18, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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cheetos & everclear
errett out
crescent arch
via felici, val bregaglia switzerland
slab below the nordkante, piz badile
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MH2
climber
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Dec 18, 2009 - 03:27am PT
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Bruce,
Yes, that is the Underfling. It now has a continuation, done by Scott Cosgrove, that leads back to Perry's Lieback, thereby freeing all of the Grand Wall. For a few.
Darren has a lot of that stuff they call positive energy.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Dec 18, 2009 - 04:03am PT
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Dec 18, 2009 - 09:49am PT
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That wall has so many features. If the granite is good at all then there are like 8 more lines on it (from this distance) How can you sleep at night knowing that's out there?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Dec 18, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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In the earlier photos with folks bouldering and some boasting of sending "4 move V5+'s", made me recall a moment last summer when we had put up a 5.8 slab route (ok....it was a bit run out, 3 bolts in 100') in Shuteye. Up walks two visiting "5.12/V5 Pillow People" and hop on the route. The one dood gets 5 feet above the 1st bolt and starts in with the King Shakes. After several false starts, he manages to slowly edge/smear/swear/pout to the 2nd bolt then yells down, "Get me off this thing!"
Priceless.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Herb Laeger has a route on the steep side of Punk Rock at Courtright called A Knob Too Far. If you have both feet off the ground you're a 5.12 slab climber. The crux, higher on the route, is a very rare treat: a dyno on slab to reach the route's namesake knob. This knob is about the size of a golfball as I recall, and is not "necked" at all so once you get it, it is a real wrestling match to get up on it. Setting up and committing to a full on dynamic move on a steep blank slab is just wild.
It's not in the book, but it's easy to find. It's toward the north end of the west face on beautiful white granite.
Another route of Herb's which features a dyno on slab, but is more do-able being merely 5.11, is Just Barely on Dome Rock. This one has a sloper ramp to set up on, but the hold you catch is a sloper too though.
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blr
climber
socal
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Dec 18, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
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Suicide... love the slab!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Dec 18, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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OP topic link on page one says something about Anders something.....
Mighty Hiker listed as the original poster...
Confused, but will chalk this up to a simple name/avitar change...
cheers mighty H!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2009 - 05:11pm PT
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Think of me as the always elusive scarlet pimpernel of SuperTopo. Although the reality is that when I appeared here, it was briefly under my own name, as it took me a while to remember a nickname from the distant past.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 18, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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Brandon-
Is that you on Blown out?
How's it been man?
J-tree this holiday right?
When are you getting there?
Mucci
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Dec 18, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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The only routes on it are the lines didn't need a drill. I was planing on getting back there this past summer but... life got in the way. Next summer for sure.
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blr
climber
socal
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Dec 21, 2009 - 01:48am PT
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Hey Mucci, yeah that's me. Send me an email or talk to Sean about details on NYE. Tell Kev he's more than welcome too. Hope to see you in Jtree!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 21, 2009 - 01:50am PT
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Will do,
Nice shot of 10K
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blr
climber
socal
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Dec 21, 2009 - 01:53am PT
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Oh, and Mucci... please, for the love of god... don't forget your grill:)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 21, 2009 - 01:57am PT
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There will be a CArcAthon!@
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L. Cohen
climber
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Has anyone put together a list of the definitive slab climbs?
Thanks!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I always thought Shaky Flakes by RA was a good one. P3 or 4 isn't much hader than 5.9, but it will have the calves screaming. The bid-ness ain't bad either. Sometimes the clips are a ways though
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
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Mooch, got a story kind of like yours.
A few years ago I took this teenaged gym rat out to Squamish. His Mom had actually begged me to get him outside because other than the gym all he did was play video games. (I didn't have the heart to tell her I own five differnt systems and have a collection of over 100 games myself..tee,hee)
So, I get him out there and was totally caught off gaurd. Forget respect. 25 years of experience just means I'm an old fart with no clue how it's done in the MODERN AGE. I take all this in stride and try to avoid smirking too much.
Well, after watching me pick up a bit of sewing machine leg (mostly strain on this occasion, but I'm a big chicken and regularly do it out of fear) he sneers at me. He puts on a serious face and informs me that this now even has a name. Elvis leg. (Not bad)
Then he tells me he's trained himself out of it.
I ask him how.
Apparently a combination of visualization techniques (like I've NEVER heard of it) and Zen meditation.
Umm...ok...a 16yr old Zen Master. Cool.
So, being the RAT BASTARD I am, I put the 5.12 Zen Master on the first pitch of Dream On. 5.10c (light in the grade) with a generous four bolts in 125 ft or so. Chortle, wheeze, chortle.
By the time he gats to the second bolt he's doing this full body fish thing that far out does the worst shakes I've ever seen. I have NO IDEA how he didn't fall off. He clips the bolt and BEGS to be lowered off.
By this time I'm feeling pretty bad, I really didn't expect more than the normal amount of quiver and he had already followed me up 11 slab and finger crack with finess...but now he's crying.
Luckily nobody else was around. In full defiance of the law I split a beer with him and give him my best OLD MAN OF THE HILLS
"Do you know what happens when you hit the scene like a meteor"
"No"
"You hit the ground in a firey explosion. Don't worry it's climbing. We all do it. Eventually you get used to making a fool of yourself. See any one around?"
"No"
"Good, then it didn't happen right?"
The rest of the trip was actually a joy.
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