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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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Be aware of the bears, serious...the hike in and out is the average backpacker hike, but for a climber it kinda sucks. The climb is fantastic and hardly above Tuolumne 5.7, no matter which way you go. Bring slings to tie knobs off. Great climb with wonderful views ...bring more water then you think for the length of the climb. I don't want to say it's big , but it's long. The top is steeper then you'd expect on the backside. Enjoy.Did I mention the bears?.....At least a bear canister and still watch out around Charlotte lake. Done it three times and bears have always been abundant.
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chalkfree
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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This is the spring by climber's camp on shoulder east of dome, July 20, 2012. Really good water there, I mean really good!
Spring was still flowing September 10, 2012, but haven't seen it this year.
Climber's camp is awesome on eastern approach, several spots on west side of creek, and a bigger one that is more open on east side of creek.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jul 25, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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More photo beta for you Todd....each pic has a little narrative for it. The walk off is the rift (north) that connects slightly off the summit (3rd class). Don't head too far off east from the summit....a few ugly fixed lines dangling into no-where's-ville. Watch one epic unfold after we finished the route a few hours earlier. Oh yah....concur about the sweet little camp on the east side of the dome (water and comfy flat bivy).
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=928833&tn=0
Btw, Ol' Pat Brennan sends his regards!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Thanks for all the beta;.....much appreciated...I'll be leaving on Sunday.....I'm psyched and ready to roll....it will be a blast!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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I was back there last about 15 yrs. ago and bivied at Charlotte Lake, which is too far if you intend on getting a late-ish start like we did. I hadn't climbed in a couple of years and my partner not for about ten. We still climbed pretty quickly but got stuck behind a party about four pitches up and realized we'd probably top out in the dark, and so bailed. A good call since, even bailing at that point, we got back to our camp after dark. We ended up losing the trail in the dark and veered off into a bog downhill of Charlotte Lake. Sunk up to our knees in the muck. Pretty lame outing. Fun, but lame. After doing a backpacking trip from Road's End and seeing the approach from that direction, I think I'll be tempted to try from the west when I go back to finish it off. Have fun.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jul 25, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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its awesome, have fun
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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We are coming in from the west......and hopefully bivy at the base so WE are the lame climbers that others are stuck behind.......(he he he-he)..
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 25, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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[url=[/url" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://s60.photobucket.com/user/davidevans511/media/DEbackpacking.jpg.html] [/url]
Dave that photo made my day!!! The driver and the Mims… good times I am sure.
Everyone looks to be wearing cotton and carrying heavy 11mm ropes.
Did the route years ago with Mike Casper, hiked out the same day we climbed as Mike had run out of cigarettes and needed his nicotine fix.
Agree with Dave, I don’t think there is any lack of pro if you’re used to JT and Tuolumne.
Have fun Todd, will be hiking in the region next month with my kid while were on the JMT, what a wonderful place
Doug (AKA: Moonie)
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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Just so anyone doesn't misconstrue my email, my partner and I were the lame ones. Fun trip. Had a blast, but nonetheless unsuccessful due to our lameness. The wading through the bog was just the icing on the cake. Best and easiest climb I've ever bailed on.
Todd will do far better.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
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Thanks for more beta......we are ready for the adventure;.....Here in joshua Tree....50 feet is massively high...so we should be WAY UP THERE in the clouds........ready to go!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Jul 25, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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Hey Todd,
One of my all time favorite back country climbs. You'll love it. I promise I will get in touch with you when you get back. I will be up in the Palisades at the same time. Finally adjusting to retirement !!!!
Enjoy
Bob
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 25, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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F10 forgot to mention that its best to avoid the furrows pitch when its raining.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon--formerly DC area
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Jul 26, 2013 - 02:37am PT
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Have a good trip. it looks like we might cross paths on the trail. we are heading in the 31st.
and thanks t those who gave info on water, especially the picture. the place looks like a sweet spot!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2013 - 02:47am PT
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Floyd...thanks....looks way cool.....looks like a long day......I'm ready! Thanks for sharing.. Floyd...did you bring only one rope for three people ?.....sort of looks that way.....
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jul 26, 2013 - 09:50am PT
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Vitality -
Yes, if you're not sharp with navigating the trail after it leaves Charlotte Lake, you'll be hosed. Key to finding the "climbers trail" to the bivy near the east shoulder of the dome is look for a small cairn when a trail forks. Take a right when the trail splits. Pay close attention as this trail wanders through mazanita. It gets better 1/4 mile into. Aim for the woods where you can see the slabs drop off the east shoulder of Charlotte.
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DRV
Trad climber
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Jul 26, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Epic climb, beautiful spot, I love SEKI...
A buddy and I did the South Face...but after the initial 4 piches of simul to the headwall we traversed too far right and ended up on two pitches of 10+ R/X climbing. This was not that fun. However, once we got into the furrows and above it was sweet. If fixed ropes are not there I would say rap or be careful downclimbing.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Jul 26, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
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I allowed Youtube do some automatic editing to stabilize the video, but noticed that the text became shaky! Luckily Youtube allowed me to delete the changes.
Todd, yes we used just one rope for three people, with the latter two simuclimbing. Of course it's slower than climbing with two (the oldest was 63), but we divided the gear between us on the hikes in and out, and a third was free at the belays to take photos and shoot video.
Also, a few days ago I posted some lengthy beta at Mountain Project.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Jul 26, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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I agree with Mark Miller. Watch out for BEARS. Take a bear can!
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Jul 26, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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If you're hiking in from the west, there is a bear locker at Bubb's Creek Campground (we didn't know it and took along our bear canisters). The only bears we saw last week were two at Road's End. None bothered us during our two nights at Bubb's Creek. Maybe the bears no longer view the campsite as a reliable source of food.
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