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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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I'm going up to do Charlotte Dome in a few weeks......any beta, helpful hints, etc...I need to know. There is a real lot of info out there....I've heard everything from the thing is hard and scary to the climb is piss easy and you can run up it in a few hours......what is the REAL beta....from the experts at supertopo who REALLY know...
Thanks in advance. Pics too please, if you got them..
I've been training.....here I am with (right) john konigh (U.C. Irvine track alumni), and (left) Steve Scott (138 sub-4 min. miles...American Mile record holder for 20 years...).....
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worm.man
Mountain climber
TX
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Jul 13, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
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i heard you were climbing it with an old jarhead and a 20 yr old girl.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
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Correct.....a grizzled old ex-Marine and a beautiful young co-ed......I'm just along for the ride....
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 13, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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'nuthin wrong with that.
Nosirree....not one bit.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 13, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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Todd,
You will dig it. Did it with T Burke. "The Furrows" pitch is excellent.
Watch out for the super aggressive deer, and bears can be a bother.
Rob
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 13, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
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The hike in will have you wishing that you could hire one of those mules to carry your pack, but it brings you to a very wild area with some great scenery. The climb is way easy--very fun on high quality rock. Three days is fine, but you'll wish you could spend a few more days back there!
Here's a Bob, a Buck, and a Big Boulder...
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jul 13, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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Agree with rmuir!
One of the most beautiful and memorable climbs I've done.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jul 13, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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From what I can remember, it is solid 5.8, but just 5.8. You can wander quite a bit, no real "route" so I think if you just sort of start in the right vicinity and follow your nose, you'll be fine. I don't remember any bolts. We walked off. Don't bother to estimate time on the rock... that varies SO much and there are too many factors. People are gonna tell you everything from 3 hours to 9. Take the day and enjoy it.
I remember my buddy Brandon Thau and I hiked in (half day hike from west side approach, not a big deal), climbed it the next day, then hiked back out right after the climb (all down hill... we ran actually...) and were on the road to Wyoming for more climbing the next few days.
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/High-Sierra-Charlotte-Dome-South-Face
Have fun!
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jul 13, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
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Don't forget your shoes to hike in with like I did
Kmart tennis shoes were terrible
Have fun
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 13, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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Follow what Croft has to say in his book. Just enough info but not too much.
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ruppell
climber
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Jul 13, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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If your a 5.6 climber it will be scary and hard. If your a 5.8 climber it will do doable and take most of the day. If your a 5.10 climber it will be a fun cruise. The rock is bullet and the hike in isn't that bad. The descent is pretty straight forward but I've heard of more than one person going way to low. It's a great route. Enjoy it.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jul 13, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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Did it back in '08 with Klaus' bro. We got tooled for not having a bear canister, but we were kinda planning on staying at Charlotte Lake anyway where there is a bear box. Then got up pre-dawn and hiked in light to do the climb. Seemed a good way to do it. It is for sure one of the best Sierra back country routes--or anywhere. We found one pitch that had some 5.9 face, but not a lot of it. Having some long slings is a must. If yer a party of three, I'd get an early start. It's not that hard, but it is long. And some of the best granite anywhere. Have a blast.
BAd
Oh, we stashed our approach shoes at the point where we started down along the dome and did that part in rock shoes to lighten the load. The descent back to the shoes wasn't too bad. No need for any super tight footwear.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
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Lots of good suggestions and ideas....I'm psyched.......it will be a blast!..thanks...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 13, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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AWESOME climb. I would say it is pretty chill and enjoyable. Just super fun on original rock. Least enjoyable was some bushwhaking to get across the creek. When we did it, we did it from the West and views on the hike in were great. Have fun, be safe!
Oh, and if you find a broken Canon camera somewhere at the bottom, PM me! I dropped it, went back up to find it but was unsuccessful...
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon--formerly DC area
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Jul 24, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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So... Was there water at the climbers camp on the shoulder? I'm heading there next week and I heard its has been dry up there the last couple of years.
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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Jul 24, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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There is a good deal of beta around that warns you about staying left to avoid some run out 5.10. You might realize this beta is to be heeded once you're run out too far to down climb.
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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Jul 24, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
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The spring was running last fall. For me it was a two day deal from the west and three from the east.
Though better views from the east approach.
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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It's a wonderful route! Pretty mellow runout easy climbing, only a little 5.8. You would probably have time to walk out after doing the route, but three days is most leisurely.
If you come in from the east over Kearsarge, there's nice camp with water near the dome. The approach is then downhill from the camp, maybe twenty-thirty minutes (?), and the descent puts you right back at camp. Some folks stay at Charlotte Lake so they don't have to carry their camping gear as far, but the camp right at the dome is sweet - I'd recommend it.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Todd, it is no big deal but just a dick wrenching mega-classic, clean, a sweet back country outing 7/83, 10 pitches, 3.5 hours (the records speak).
Some people say there is a lack of pro in some spots but not for people of your experience level trained in the old school ways.
What Rob says about the deer is a serious concern. I had a life altering experience with a deer licking my face at midnight that I will never forget.
Did it with JA. We ran into "the Driver," Robert "the artist" and posse in Lone Pine. It was actually them that invited us. They let us go first. We partied on the summit, a perfect diving board where we waited for their party of 3 to catch up. I had been blown off by an older woman that I thought I was in love with(we were to meet in Lone Pine), beeeeeotch.
It ended up as a memorable outing.
[url=http://s60.photobucket.com/user/davidevans511/media/DEbackpacking.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h31/davidevans511/DEbackpacking.jpg[/img][/url]
Greg, Robert, the guy I can't remember and JA.
Or should I say the Driver, Mims, Mystery man and the Flange Man?
Looks like Jim has some newish EBs!
ps. We stayed at Charlotte Lake.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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Be aware of the bears, serious...the hike in and out is the average backpacker hike, but for a climber it kinda sucks. The climb is fantastic and hardly above Tuolumne 5.7, no matter which way you go. Bring slings to tie knobs off. Great climb with wonderful views ...bring more water then you think for the length of the climb. I don't want to say it's big , but it's long. The top is steeper then you'd expect on the backside. Enjoy.Did I mention the bears?.....At least a bear canister and still watch out around Charlotte lake. Done it three times and bears have always been abundant.
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chalkfree
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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This is the spring by climber's camp on shoulder east of dome, July 20, 2012. Really good water there, I mean really good!
Spring was still flowing September 10, 2012, but haven't seen it this year.
Climber's camp is awesome on eastern approach, several spots on west side of creek, and a bigger one that is more open on east side of creek.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jul 25, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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More photo beta for you Todd....each pic has a little narrative for it. The walk off is the rift (north) that connects slightly off the summit (3rd class). Don't head too far off east from the summit....a few ugly fixed lines dangling into no-where's-ville. Watch one epic unfold after we finished the route a few hours earlier. Oh yah....concur about the sweet little camp on the east side of the dome (water and comfy flat bivy).
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=928833&tn=0
Btw, Ol' Pat Brennan sends his regards!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Thanks for all the beta;.....much appreciated...I'll be leaving on Sunday.....I'm psyched and ready to roll....it will be a blast!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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I was back there last about 15 yrs. ago and bivied at Charlotte Lake, which is too far if you intend on getting a late-ish start like we did. I hadn't climbed in a couple of years and my partner not for about ten. We still climbed pretty quickly but got stuck behind a party about four pitches up and realized we'd probably top out in the dark, and so bailed. A good call since, even bailing at that point, we got back to our camp after dark. We ended up losing the trail in the dark and veered off into a bog downhill of Charlotte Lake. Sunk up to our knees in the muck. Pretty lame outing. Fun, but lame. After doing a backpacking trip from Road's End and seeing the approach from that direction, I think I'll be tempted to try from the west when I go back to finish it off. Have fun.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jul 25, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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its awesome, have fun
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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We are coming in from the west......and hopefully bivy at the base so WE are the lame climbers that others are stuck behind.......(he he he-he)..
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 25, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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[url=[/url" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://s60.photobucket.com/user/davidevans511/media/DEbackpacking.jpg.html] [/url]
Dave that photo made my day!!! The driver and the Mims… good times I am sure.
Everyone looks to be wearing cotton and carrying heavy 11mm ropes.
Did the route years ago with Mike Casper, hiked out the same day we climbed as Mike had run out of cigarettes and needed his nicotine fix.
Agree with Dave, I don’t think there is any lack of pro if you’re used to JT and Tuolumne.
Have fun Todd, will be hiking in the region next month with my kid while were on the JMT, what a wonderful place
Doug (AKA: Moonie)
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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Just so anyone doesn't misconstrue my email, my partner and I were the lame ones. Fun trip. Had a blast, but nonetheless unsuccessful due to our lameness. The wading through the bog was just the icing on the cake. Best and easiest climb I've ever bailed on.
Todd will do far better.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
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Thanks for more beta......we are ready for the adventure;.....Here in joshua Tree....50 feet is massively high...so we should be WAY UP THERE in the clouds........ready to go!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Jul 25, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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Hey Todd,
One of my all time favorite back country climbs. You'll love it. I promise I will get in touch with you when you get back. I will be up in the Palisades at the same time. Finally adjusting to retirement !!!!
Enjoy
Bob
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 25, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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F10 forgot to mention that its best to avoid the furrows pitch when its raining.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon--formerly DC area
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Jul 26, 2013 - 02:37am PT
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Have a good trip. it looks like we might cross paths on the trail. we are heading in the 31st.
and thanks t those who gave info on water, especially the picture. the place looks like a sweet spot!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2013 - 02:47am PT
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Floyd...thanks....looks way cool.....looks like a long day......I'm ready! Thanks for sharing.. Floyd...did you bring only one rope for three people ?.....sort of looks that way.....
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jul 26, 2013 - 09:50am PT
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Vitality -
Yes, if you're not sharp with navigating the trail after it leaves Charlotte Lake, you'll be hosed. Key to finding the "climbers trail" to the bivy near the east shoulder of the dome is look for a small cairn when a trail forks. Take a right when the trail splits. Pay close attention as this trail wanders through mazanita. It gets better 1/4 mile into. Aim for the woods where you can see the slabs drop off the east shoulder of Charlotte.
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DRV
Trad climber
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Jul 26, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Epic climb, beautiful spot, I love SEKI...
A buddy and I did the South Face...but after the initial 4 piches of simul to the headwall we traversed too far right and ended up on two pitches of 10+ R/X climbing. This was not that fun. However, once we got into the furrows and above it was sweet. If fixed ropes are not there I would say rap or be careful downclimbing.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Jul 26, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
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I allowed Youtube do some automatic editing to stabilize the video, but noticed that the text became shaky! Luckily Youtube allowed me to delete the changes.
Todd, yes we used just one rope for three people, with the latter two simuclimbing. Of course it's slower than climbing with two (the oldest was 63), but we divided the gear between us on the hikes in and out, and a third was free at the belays to take photos and shoot video.
Also, a few days ago I posted some lengthy beta at Mountain Project.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Jul 26, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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I agree with Mark Miller. Watch out for BEARS. Take a bear can!
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Jul 26, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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If you're hiking in from the west, there is a bear locker at Bubb's Creek Campground (we didn't know it and took along our bear canisters). The only bears we saw last week were two at Road's End. None bothered us during our two nights at Bubb's Creek. Maybe the bears no longer view the campsite as a reliable source of food.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Getting ready to go, go , go!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Looks big to me....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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Got up really really early...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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Got started on the climb on tues....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:33am PT
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My awesome climbing partner, Jessie Cruz.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Up , up, up...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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Very cool climb, no doubt...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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Jessica Cruz on the summit of Charlotte Dome;...yeeeeehooooooo!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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Long day for the old man...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Thanks to all the supertopo friends who gave me helpful beta;..and thank you to Jared, Jason, Loren, and Bianca (other climbers who climbed ahead of us)....who were fun, friendly, and helpful (I didn't have to do any route finding!)....a great great great day on a very beautiful mountain.
It took longer than Dave Evans' 3 1/2 hours...and I still find it amazing that Tucker Tech did an on site solo of the route (and it rained a bit on him too!).....incredible.....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Awesome Todd, way 2 get after it!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Looks like a great time, Todd!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 01:13am PT
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I'm home now;....very tired/sore and very happy about our big adventure;..it was a steller outing! Today put the kids to work to pay for the trip....
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Bad Climber
climber
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Looks like you hit it just right. What a great, great piece o' granite!
Congrats.
BAd
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I love how happy you look on the last summit photo. I call it the over 50 and blissed out on endorphins look, but we know it's more than that. My wife frequently comments that I always look so happy in the mountains, when she see similar photos of me. It's been a while, and I hope to get the look back soon. OK, 50+10 years in my case.
Darwin
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Todd, Interesting that you trained with the great Steve Scott, from Upland. I recall his extraordinary running career in the early eighties and the 1980 Olympic Boycott Games. The Posel brothers and I hiked in to Charlotte from the East in '77- with not much beta. An impressive chunk of rock. Good work!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Very nice Todd! Glad you enjoyed it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Pretty nice climbing, you think?
But why do you stick your kids out on a hot dusty road to slave for you????
You know its all about location, location.
You should go stake out a better place... like the entry station to the park, where the line forms. Prolly sellout in 15 min on a Sat am. Hot drinks in the winter....
Good going Dude.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Way to go Todd and Jesse. What a sweet peak.
Selling lemonade is a good gig. I have a feeling all you Gordon's are acclimatized to your local weather.
edit: umm, but yeah, what about location!
ps. good to see the long sleeves, perfect summer weather!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Oh, by the way. That pack looks pretty beat, couldn't be too comfy.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Location for the lemonade stand was actually good;........we had two big signs, and there is sort of a straight away so the drivers can see the signs coming up...there was ample parking and being in "the hood"...we got both local AND tourist customers.....(up closer to The Park...you only get tourists)....and the locals tip better. It was busy and successful....Von made over $30....Lake made over $20...and Beck stayed at home and watched TV and played Minecraft;...he made $0..........It was a bit windy.....which means sand in the ice chest, on the ice cubes, and signs blowing over......It was fun and profitable.......their hourly wage was about the same as my teaching job.......(but they have no insurance or retirement...)..
The Charlotte Dome was way cool...it kicked my butt..I'm old..
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