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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Love this pic by Ouch!
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Owlman
Social climber
Bozeman
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still bitter.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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I already posted on this thread some four years ago, but having done RA twice - the first time lead on the log (1973?), the second time, following on the log (1976?) - that log freaked me out.
BTW "Lead On The Log" is the name of my band, our first album will be released shortly.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:15pm PT
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Rotten Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
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Just one little problem...its rotten! LOL
Mimi mentioned that Schultz had a souvenir chunk around for a while in a storage shed with dreams of wealth in divying it up!
Tricky to authenticate!
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Sep 11, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
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The reason the traverse over to the forest is so spicy is because you're all off route. You took what only seems to be obvious; the very low route with poor protection and a gnarly 5.8 traverse across water polished, often wet rock. The real route keeps very high thru well protected class 3 features with a final, well protected 5.6 30' traverse across the slick water course to the forest. I took the low spicy route many times until my free solo when I thought there must be an easier way.
I never climbed so smoothly and concentrated as when I free soloed that rotten log.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 11, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
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Sh#t I did it in the early and mid 80's and it was a lot more rotten then those photos.I think the new pitch is great just like a 5.6 at the Leap.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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i'd like to know a little more about this dave schulz.
i'd heard that a ranger did it, out of predictably killjoy concerns for everyone's safety, presumably ensuring that no one below would be getting brained at the time. now we have a rootin-tootin little big man who wants bragging rights for killing the character of a fun little experience, perhaps everyclimber's first and best introduction to the valley?
leave it to wade icey to rise to his defense.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Replace the rotton log! Facelift project!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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the rotten log is gone forever, from the climb at least. but upthread someone says it seems to be in protective custody.
can't we get someone to donate an old, exclusive men's club facility in san francisco? there must be several dozen within walking distance of good eats around the embarcadero. establish a Rotten Log Club for climbers old enough to have BITDed the thing. fine scotch to be served on the unfinished, unadorned old RL itself. i can't think of a more graceful way of getting older.
i will bore you to tears with stories of my three ascents, two of them named after old girlfriends. you will be so happy to die!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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OK, so now I know why the traverse felt way harder than it should have been. Early season ascent, trying to friction thru big slime patches, trying to dry the bottoms of my EBs on my pant legs. If I ever get up there again, I'll try to do it the right way.
I also think the rappel in kind of unnecessary, but as someone recently posted on Mountain Project, the trend in climbing is toward "wussification." Even as a 16 yr. old punk, I found the North Dome gully to be straightforward.
BTW, I always heard that it was Schulz who bounced it as well. It seemed like a dick move at the time, but in retrospect, he probably save someone from a trip to the hospital or morgue. I thought it felt dicey in '79 or '80. I suppose it was a matter of time anyways.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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leave it to wade icey to rise to his defense
if you knew Dave you would know he needs no defense.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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What, No Monkey Chunks for the holidays...not even in Skymall?!? Damn...
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Mimi
climber
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I was also really upset when we heard about Dave kicking it off. I had done it in '83 and it was fine. LOL. When we asked him that day in the C4 lot why he did it, he said it was dangerous and it was time for it to go. 'Someone could get killed on that thing.' He picked some of the pieces up that fell the distance and supposedly stashed them in a storage locker. He wouldn't give any of it away. Too bad it's all gone.
It would great if it could be replaced. That was an awesome mandatory feature on that fun route.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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With modern hauling techniques being as advanced and heavy duty as they are, we could haul a new one up in there.
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Mimi
climber
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The NPS would never allow it. Or WUD they?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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PTPP seems to have his hauling techniques dialed - maybe he could help. A form of penance, too. Although it might be easier to lower a suitable log from above. Either way, there are obstacles which would have to be circumvented, both physical and bureaucratic.
Wood the NPS let it happen? We could make a case for restoring and protecting natural features, that the log is entirely natural and belongs there, do an EIS for the actual project, etc. (It is nominally in a wilderness, even if in close proximity to the Ahwahnee.) And the NPS says it doesn't manage climbing anchors...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
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For example: liability?
Ken
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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So you're the guy that killed the tree on Lazy Bum...proud stuff Walter
...or did ewe?
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