Those strange turns of youth...

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Messages 21 - 33 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
You're right, as always, Rich, and wiser than I. I scribble these
out pretty quick usually, not much thought. And I guess I was caught
up in the spirit of those times. Certainly I didn't make my point at
all, that no matter how badly he climbed I liked being with him and
didn't care, because he was interesting and allowed me to have a partner,
and also that he was game, whatever his experience, game to let me
lead him up the Crack of Fear. And I respected him for being
willing to go there, where few had gone before us, namely Royal
and Layton and their respective had-pressed partners. Boy, did
I mess that up. Incidentally the third man on that ascent of the
Crack of Fear was Ray Shragg, who after about 45 years I finally
met up with again in New York at Rock N Snow, when you introduced
me, on that lecture tour I gave a couple years back. Ray too, from
the East, had never seen any kind of off-width. That was far
more difficult than the climb, to get those two up behind me. We did
a lot of laughing. It was a grand day in paradise.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 10, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Redford was on a baseball scholarship from 1954-1958, so Layton and he only had contact in '58 when LK appeared.

I didn't get to the Sink until 1970, and got carded. No beer!
Slighted, I returned on my 21rst birthday and the fukker didn't bother.


Stultz seems to have gotten the marriage thing right. Too bad it was the third try.
He's still working double shifts, and so has stitched me up more than once.


As for your story Pat, Redford had a line about it in The Great Waldo Pepper.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jul 10, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Toker-

I started at CU as a freshman in Fall, 1957. Began haunting the Sink around that time when it was still a 3.2% beer joint, and 18 was old enough. I'm certain Redford served me beer several times...

P.S.-Say hello to Mike Stultz for me...we climbed the S. face of the Matron together, Fall 1966.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 10, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Keep the stories coming Pat.
Vignette are the best, I'm too busy to follow epics.
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Jul 10, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Mr. Oliver,

If you've got more stories, then do tell! That's the kind of stuff that makes ST worth coming back to time and time again.

I only started climbing about 10 yeas ago, so I LOVE these windows into generations past!

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2013 - 12:52am PT
Rodger, you say I was a high school student in '58-'59...?
I was in 6th grade, I think, in '58, then in 1959 my parents
and I and my brother moved to Boulder when I was 12
and going into 7th grade. A little after that, I discovered the
Flatirons and began to try to be a climber. My parents rented
the first house on Pleasant off Broadway, about half a block from
the Sink. I was too young to go in, but I spent a lot of time
wandering that whole Hill area. I had a shoeshine kit. I sat
outside the Sink and looked for customers. I remember how the
sweat from the cooks' foreheads dripped onto the hamburgers. I
only started going to the Sink when my older buddies, such as Layton,
started meeting there, roughly in about 1961, as I recall.
Maybe I could go in but just not drink. Somewhere around this time
Gerry Mountain Sports was down the hill in a little shop at
the bottom of Broadway hill, just above Arapahoe street, and
Dale Johnson ran the shop. I went in and drooled over the gear
and pitons. Not too long after, if I recall, the Gerry shop opened
just a door uphill south from the Sink....
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
I ramble and digress. I guess that's what writers do.
I recall walking into the new Gerry Mountain Sports, just a door
up-sidewalk from the Sink, and the sales clerk greeted me with a
handshake. It felt as though he had a giant, unbroken egg yolk
in his palm. He seemed to enjoy lingering at that handshake. When
he let go, he showed me a very large blister
that took up his whole hand. He said he had been climbing the Third
Flatiron and started the second rappel (free) off the backside, down
the Falcon's Fracture. He realized he had forgotten to clip his
rope into his carabiner (which held his diaper sling together at about
his crotch area). He ended up going all the way down the rope in a
slide, with only his hands to hold him to the rope. He seemed
quite proud of that phenomenal blister on his hand.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 14, 2013 - 12:13am PT
I am honored to have been able to read that. Great story, and I don't give a f' if you soloed it or not. Maybe if we had met, but it's some climb I never saw. Nice writing.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 10:43am PT
Thank you so much, Darwin. I guess none of this, though, has been
an effort to "write," per se. I just ramble and digress, as I
said. I have started an actual book where I actually write and rewrite
and edit and create and recreate, and sometimes I get where I
want to go after about forty revisions, although sometimes it
happens on a pass.... As it stands, with over 400 pages of single
spaced writing now, I doubt I'll be able to finish it.... Not sure
how I would ever know how to select the final pages.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 14, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Editing can take up too much time.
I have to write a quick 400 to 800 word essay for my business five times a week and think one reread before sending it out is enough or I would spend all day trying to make it perfect with elaborations and links to the explanations. It's a style choice I guess but after hearing someone else read my stuff it really helped me clean the writing up.

Think like Hemingway, Kerouac, or Kesey, overtly edited material is difficult to read and seems forced. Let it come out naturally, reread for spelling or grammar errors then pass it on to the public.

Let it flow like you are sitting around a campfire.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 14, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
A sad addenda to the Stultz story; his daughter Sierra's longtime childhood best friend was one of the 19 fire fighters from Prescott.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Jul 14, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
Pat,

Loved this because you described your thought process so well. I can understand the urge to contradict a rude interrogation, just to stand your ground.

"Question and answer is not a civilized form of conversation,"

Patrick O'Brian, through the character Maturin, in one of his novels about the British navy.


Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
Throughout my youth I found myself in so many situations I
didn't understand and had no idea as to the right way to respond.
I think I still suffer from this phenomenon, yet when on occasion
I get it "right," there is a tremendous sense of happiness and
triumpth.
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