Nose death flake

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 68 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ec

climber
ca
Jun 19, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
Who knows if cleaning the OP flake will set off a larger event? It's not really like a solo stone on a ledge that you could know for sure that it's the only thing headed to the deck.

 ec
ec

climber
ca
Jun 19, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
Is the huge flake still there high up on the WEML? Harding said he had to keep a 'TA' (Tight Asshole) and hope for the best and hooked across it. I did this in '81 and it seemed like it was ready to go then too.

 ec
climber007

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
- ScottR.. glad to hear your ok.. the reason I posted this thread was because I knew just how loose that thing is.. so its not surprising that it moved again...

that thing is coming down.. and soon.. its only a matter of how and when its triggered...

that said.. it will likely cause a larger event when it goes.. based on where it is...

no good solution I can really see... lets just pray it doesnt get any of our friends!!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 19, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
Just expressing my desire to transform potential energy into kinetic.

Wes, I like to think the Second Law of Thermodynamics is for our protection, so I do my best to increase entropy.

Seriously, though, I can think of several formerly frightening features that are gone now: Psyche Flake, the Undercling Pitch, the Gong Flake, the Rotten Log, the "killer Death Flake" after the Hog Trough on Overhang Bypass, and most of the El Cap Tree Direct route, to name a few. Regardless of where the plumb line lies, when (not if) this Nose death flake goes, it seems likely to me that it will take someone lower down with it unless we find a way to trundle it and evacuate the likely fall areas soon.

John
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
That thing sounds serious.

Cheyne to the rescue?
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
gunna be tough to launch that thing mid season...people and ropes all over the place...
jcory86

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
ScottR, myself and Jarad were on the nose a few days ago. I was on lead when Chris passed Scott and Jarad. They told me about the flake moving at the next belay. When I set out on the pitch I tapped it and it sounded absolutely horrible. I made the 5.7 moves around it I avoid using it but that thing is scary. Seems like its gonna go very soon. If you're jumping on the Nose be heads up at that belay? Maybe put in a set of anchors left of it?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
Right now the best thing is if someone like Cheyne could get up there and stabilize it until the offseason when it could be trundled safely.

Problem of course is devising a foolproof careful system to tie/bolt/net/duct-tape/chewing gum or whatever that thing down without risking dislodging it in the process.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Given where it is, even in the off season, simply trundling it doesn't sound like a good idea. It seems like bringing it down to at least the Stove Legs raps and letting it go from there would be good. Although, it you had it in control from there, lowering it down like a haul bag seems doable too.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
I bet Burt Bronson would haul it up the route to safety. Could make for a fun boulder problem at the summit.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
I wonder if there is a way to sling the top of the formation there so you can get a loop of rope under it to keep it from sliding down further for now. Might stabilize it long enough to bolt/chain it in place.
mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
On a somewhat unrelated topic - my son took this pic of the massive 10/11/10 rockfall while he was on the nose route
El Cap Rockfall 10/11/2010
El Cap Rockfall 10/11/2010
Credit: mpmoody

ec

climber
ca
Jun 19, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
from the Sierra
from the Sierra
Credit: R. Swafford, ec collection
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Jun 19, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
Those pics are the stuff of nightmares.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 19, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
Best part about new climbs...

You get to choose which ones stay, and which ones go.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jun 19, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
30 cargo canopy static line shove and let it waft lazily to earth. Sell on ebay.?..Instead of base JUMPING it would be base DUMPING..
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Jun 19, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
That statement brings back a fright from Sahara Terror at Tahquitz in the early 80's which is strikingly similar to the OP.

Unfortunately, the very next day a guy dropped it on the woman belaying him. It severed her arm completely and she bled to death at the belay. Could have been me.

johntp...It was almost me and my gf (I posted this before somewhere)

"I was also terrorized the last time I climbed this route. That was back around 1984. My gf and I were climbing behind another couple. We shared a couple of belays and pleasant conversation. We stopped for a bite to eat at the little alcove at the belay before the regular crux pitch. The other team continued on. They had done the crux pitch and the guy was about half way up the next one (last or 2nd to last pitch) when I started out again. He screams "ROCK" and I hear the terrible scrapping of something that starts sliding then bouncing down. The deep rumble identifies it as something big. I look up and there is a huge crash and explosion of rock fragments and dust and I see the woman´s body flung out onto the face. Her rope comes taught and she is hanging upside down about 10 ft below the belay ledge. My gf can´t see anything and is in a panic, but as fate would have it, we are at the spot where the route takes a little jog to the right and so are not directly under the rock fall. The rest of the route below gets showered with debris. I climb up to the woman as fast as I can and reach her in about 5 minutes but she is clearly already dead - one hand amputated and a massive gash on her chest, no sign of a pulse, and as she was hanging upside down like that, looked like all her blood had drained out onto the rock. By this time her bf, who has untied from the rope and downclimbed to the belay (!), is yarding on the rope trying to haul her back up to the ledge. I move up to the belay, get us both anchored, and we bring her body up to the ledge. He tries to resuscitate her (that was grim) and then when he finally accepts her demise, falls to pieces. People on the ground, on the top, and my gf are all yelling to find out what has happened. I have to let them know that there is a fatality but no other injuries, although the bf is close to non-functional. I wait with him and try to help him get it together for what must be done until some other climbers, who have rescue experience, rap down to us. Then we decide that they will help get the bf out. I will bring my gf up and we will clear out. My gf is also not in very good shape, especially after she has to climb over the gore on the face, past the woman's body on the ledge, and around her grieving and sobbing bf - people who just minutes before we had seen happy and full of life and who were like ourselves enjoying a beautiful day on the rock. Not too long after that my gf dropped out of climbing. I did a lot of thinking, and the smell of pulverized granite can still transport me back to that moment in a flash, but the bad wasn't enough to cancel out the good, and so I continued to climb."


climber007

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
bump
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jun 20, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Dang LittleZ! And then came Woodfords!!! Dude, if i were you, id NEVER climb around other folks again!
ochotona

Social climber
The Portal, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Some really interesting questions, and if any of you are interested in adding a few things to your brain, the Park Geologist, Greg Stock, has been doing some really interesting research on rockfall lately -
http://www.nps.gov/yose/naturescience/upload/Quantitative-rock-fall-hazard-and-risk-assessment-for-Yosemite-Valley-April-2012.pdf

He's also put sensors behind flakes and it seems like they flex and fall commonly on hot, clear, summer afternoons as well because of temperature changes - I don't know if this one has been published yet.
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