Nose death flake

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Messages 61 - 73 of total 73 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 3, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
Little Z ..... pretty grim.

I always wondered about the details.

Sometimes we climbers pay a huge price for our fun.

Be safe

climber007

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
I am amazed that flake is still hanging on... after it moved on me, I got two more accounts of movement in the following few days... My guess is my chalk X on it gone..

Did you guys happen to put a tape or chalk X back on it?
MattF

Trad climber
Bend, Or
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
Anyone know if that thing is still there?
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Apr 15, 2015 - 04:27am PT
bump
Cameron S

Trad climber
Santa Rosa
Aug 24, 2016 - 05:55pm PT
Looks like the flake is still there. See pictures 6-8 from Tom's June 6 El Cap Report (http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6616);.

Hope he's ok with me posting links to his site here!
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
Aug 24, 2016 - 06:09pm PT
I always assumed that the boot flake is integral to the wall

Yeah that's the only way you can talk yourself into going by it.

For the record, I thought the same on pitch 11 on Half dome 30 years ago even when I stepped on a chockstones and it dropped 2".
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Aug 25, 2016 - 08:56am PT
Why would you touch something like that? Its obviously loose and should be avoided. El Cap (and climbing in general)will never be safe. If you fix any potential problem you might as well be sport climbing.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 25, 2016 - 09:01am PT
"No, this is not the cocaine thread after all.

You're right again, von Mabel."
--Bob the Packsheep, still in harness, still can't find his way out of an outhouse, not that he needs one
Sula

Trad climber
Pennsylvania
Aug 25, 2016 - 10:29am PT
Scole posted:
If you fix any potential problem you might as well be sport climbing.
Would that include the use of a rope and protection on trad climbs?
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Aug 26, 2016 - 07:50am PT
This discussion is about altering nature to better suit your abilities. Climbing big walls includes risk. There is loose rock all over El Cap. If something loose can be avoided, avoid it. If it must be climbed, be careful.
Sula

Trad climber
Pennsylvania
Aug 26, 2016 - 08:34am PT
Fair enough. No - or at least minimal - "improvement" of the rock is a sensible ethic.

But there have been other cases where death blocks have been removed. And it's not a question of whether this one goes - just when.

Cragman

Trad climber
Mammoth and SLO.....Life is Good!!!
Aug 26, 2016 - 08:53am PT
We clean obstacles off the freeway......and the Nose is perhaps nature's biggest freeway.

It makes sense to me to trundle that block to avoid injury or death. Pick a day in the dead of winter.....with no one around.....and send it.
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Aug 26, 2016 - 11:02am PT
It makes sense to me to trundle that block to avoid injury or death. Pick a day in the dead of winter.....with no one around.....and send it.

Didn't that death block on the Nose at the hanging belay below the alcove that was held in place with a pile of old slings get biffed in '97 or so during the winter floods? I was so happy to follow the pitch below and grab the rack and go at that belay in '94.
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