What would Harding say?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 21 - 40 of total 63 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WBraun

climber
Jun 18, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
I spent two winters in Camp 4 with Warren Harding.

Every late afternoon at 4:30PM he would say:

"The bar opens in a half hour" ......
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jun 18, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
Thanks Park Rat the legends live through Harding, L, Em & Bruce, Scuffy, Pud, Jaybro, Frog, bvb, Cragman & Hartouni restores my faith that the California attitude is still one of the top ten best walks in life.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jun 18, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
Thanks very much.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Jun 18, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
Thank you for the funny, poignant and ultimately beautiful story Susie. WH definitely haunts me, but only in a spirited, enthusiastic, and fun-loving way. I have his birthday noted in calendar each year. Not everyone gets to be at that level.

I too once stopped by Roger's place in Bishop with a pal (10b4me) to see the memorial. We're just standin' around like a couple of putzes with our hands in our pockets when this nice lady comes out and asks us if we want to see the Harding museum. We had no clue! We said "Sure!" and she says, "Well, let me see if I can wake him up!" Then for the next hour and a half we were given the grand tour and regaled with tales of mirth, woe, and intrigue.

We'd mentioned we'd be at the Nose 50th event and months later, Roger ran into us there and gave a few Warren related "treats" that I will cherish forever. It was very nice of him to remember us, since he really didn't know us from boo. But I think he valued that we appreciated the beauty and complexity that WH embodied.

Hats off to ya, Warren, wherever you may be!
Eric
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 18, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
I first met Warren when, after seizing a just vacated seat at a fire in C4 in December, 1976, he nudged me and passed a bottle of wine. I recognized him immediately but just smiled and joined the banter.

The next morning we talked a bit and he really liked that I recalled Lito's letter to Mountain after the WOTEML.

It would be another 8 years, but I saw him again in Oakland for what had to have been the highpoint of his life, the slide show at the AAC meeting.
Yvon and Royal rode herd over him, allowing him to imbibe but not too much.

He was in perfect humor and, with the help of some of Galen's images, he friggin brought the house down.
It was well practiced material so the delivery was perfect. The one I really remember was at the end of the WOTEML images he said, "Many of the Valley climbers were somewhat displeased with our style." and then he clicks a shot from Pakistan of 20 raggedly dressed Balti porters during a strike glaring at the camera.

I have never seen a climber before or since get such an enthusiastic ovation. The place went nuts.

The following week I spent climbing at JT with Andy Embick, who had hosted Warren in Valdez, and I got to hear about the darker side of Warren.

When Warren moved to Moab I saw a lot more of him and Alice. No longer a wino they were co-enablers and were hitting Manhattans at noon.
(maybe that is appropriate since Manhattan comes from the indian for "island with many rocks")

Occasionally when sloshed he would lash out, and I would say, "Warren, you're gonna chase away ALL your friends. You used to be my hero." Then I would leave.
When I saw him again he would have forgotten and be friendly again.
This happened 3 times.

In the fullness of time I have come to realize that finding that your heros have feet of clay and seeing them evolve into becoming friends is one of life's bittersweet gifts granted to only a few.

That it has been given to me so many times over makes me lucky indeed.
I hope that I can live up to the honor.
Park Rat

Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Thank you all for your kind comments.

I have to confess that I spend way too much time thinking about what to say about Harding.

I start with a rough outline and just keep playing with it, my goal is to stay true to the Harding I remember, as well as the one I've been told about by a number of you who have shared your reminiscences of him with me.

If I can channel his voice and paint a good picture of him for you then I've done my job.
craig mo

Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
Jun 18, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
who here might earn a black hat? Did Warren come up with the hat code
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 18, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
WARREN HARDING, LORD OF LIGHT

Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 18, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
ROYAL AND HERBERT REBUKE THE FORCES OF EVIL

JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Jun 18, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Love the taco for the history that pops up, thank you Park Rat for the post.
as i enjoy a not expensive glass of red,
H.B. Warren, where ever you are....
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Jun 18, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
Wonderful thread, as stated up thread... pure gold!

I hope this thread stays alive for years and becomes 10,000 posts long.

Met him once outside the Mountain room bar.

I always wondered what Harding thought of the cartoon/characacher of Him BITD.
The one where he is wearing a trench coat and saying something like:
'Hey kid, wanna buy a bolt kit?"

I guess I wonder what he would have thought of modern day rap bolting/sport climbs and cordless, power drills.

I also wonder what he would've thought...
No let me say, I wonder how vehemently he would have applauded little Kara's recent 'Jugless' ascent of the Nose.
A total demi God !

I recount often to new climbers the story and his response when reaching the top of the Nose...
(something like)

"Conquered? Well from where I am standing it seems El Cap is in a lot better shape than I am!"

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Thank you Park Rat ;)
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jun 19, 2013 - 09:50am PT
i never spoke to harding,
though i've heard his message thru
his routes that i've climbed,

west face of the tower,
eeyores enigma,
harding's chimney
north buttress of middle...

these speak volumes of the man, their author.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jun 19, 2013 - 10:49am PT
Susie great stuff.

Yeah like others, it was C4 where I met him a couple of times. Didn't know what to think at first except the media coverage of the WOEML, but he seemed friendly enough.

Wish I had gotten to know him better.

And you are correct, the ST, as with the US, is polarized to an extent. I perhaps have contributed some to that, but am learning to temper my thoughts (and fingers on the keyboard).

Harding, Beckey, and other legends. And they are legends, not just icons. Maybe some may have not agreed with their views on climbing, or indeed life, but wow, I wish I had their heritage.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jun 19, 2013 - 11:41am PT
On Youtube there is an 8 section long interview with Chuck Pratt, probably the only one he did, and he was obviously embarrassed. It was when Pratt was guiding for the Exum School in the Tetons.

He talked about how he started climbing, and how Harding got him going in Yosemite. He spoke reverently of Harding, who was very much alive at the time. It is a cool interview. Go check it out.
Park Rat

Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Hi there everyone,

So many kind comments, Harding would have been very happy about this for sure.

I like to think that when I'm no longer around to remind you all of him, that the things I've written will carry on long into the future.

There's no such thing as a lifetime pass, we all fade away. The world has a short memory, few will be remembered 100 years from now.

Characters like Warren are few and far be, which may be a good thing. Chuckle.

I can assure you that Harding had a fantastic sense of humor, which never left him. No one enjoyed the joke or off-color story more than he did.

He didn't like was being criticized about his climbing in print, he couldn't believe that people had so little to do with their time.

Thanks for reminding me about the Pratt video, I watched them a long time ago, but will rewatch, thank you.

StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 19, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
Never got to climb with Warren, but hung out with him a few times in the ditch. Best was getting naked in the Ahwahnee tubs with Warren and some female companions after doing Serenity and Maxine's. Drank a sh*tload of cheap beer. He was hilarious and definitely had a presence and opinions. Loved his sense of humor. People in the hotel kept coming out with binoculars trying to figure out what the hell was going on up there. One of my best days in the Vallley for sure.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jun 19, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
Nobody can forget Harding. He gave us two of the best routes on the planet.

The Nose and what is now Astroman.

The Harding slot is still much feared, and I consider the Nose one of the best routes on Earth. Fantastic rock and cracks in the most beautiful setting on the entire captain.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 19, 2013 - 01:37pm PT

Burp!
Park Rat

Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Bump!
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Jun 21, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
Without question, Harding bagged the most iconic rock climb in the world.

I just returned from the Valley, from the East Coast with my son. I make the pilgrimage every few years. I just can't he;p from going back--wish I was there now.

Harding left quite a legacy with his route-The Nose

I really enjoyed meeting many of the climbers from all over the world, who had completed or were just starting off for the Nose.
They all have that energy that Warren Harding had which fades as we get older,(except in a few cases).

My only memories of Harding were chasing him down the stairs, at some Harvard dorm, with him swigging a gallon jug of wine. I was impressed !!
Messages 21 - 40 of total 63 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta