Tacos at City of Rocks; TR..well kinda'!

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Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Jun 16, 2013 - 06:48am PT
Ezra returned from around the rock and informed Ralph that he and donini had left a rope on another climb for him to retrieve; "only an easy 5.10," he said.


It was way over rated, maybe 5.10b at best, I can't climb 5.10d that easily.....:)

It's ok to sand bag on toprope :)



It was a true pleasure to meet Ralph T, Brokendownclimber (Rodger), Fritz, Heidi and see Doninni again, maybe when Donini hits 80 I'll be able to keep up with him :)

Renny Jackson and his partner (wife?) were also great people @ the camp fire!!!!

I'll post pics later :)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Jun 16, 2013 - 09:03am PT
Aktrad &#40;Ralph&#41; on rain dance, sorry about the sun :&#41;
Aktrad (Ralph) on rain dance, sorry about the sun :)
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Fritz Belaying with Heidi
Fritz Belaying with Heidi
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Brokendown on Raindance
Brokendown on Raindance
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Fritz on a castle rock 5.9
Fritz on a castle rock 5.9
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Ralph T &#40;Aktrad&#41; at age 70, on a 5.10 at Castle, <br/>
He had a hi...
Ralph T (Aktrad) at age 70, on a 5.10 at Castle,
He had a hip replacement 6 months ago!!! what's your excuse???? It's not vaild :)
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Ralph again, I promise my belay hand had the rope locked off :&#41;
Ralph again, I promise my belay hand had the rope locked off :)
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Fritz again
Fritz again
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Heidi
Heidi
Credit: Ezra Ellis
The Donini crag bivy, prior to an "Alzheimer's check" for gear :&#41;
The Donini crag bivy, prior to an "Alzheimer's check" for gear :)
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Castle rock state park
Castle rock state park
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Jim on a 5.10- crack, south face of Castle
Jim on a 5.10- crack, south face of Castle
Credit: Ezra Ellis
yours truly and the Pacific NW editor for back packing magazine
yours truly and the Pacific NW editor for back packing magazine
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Jim on approach to the comp wall
Jim on approach to the comp wall
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Credit: Ezra Ellis
Credit: Ezra Ellis

Thanks for the great times Y'all!!!!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 10:31am PT
More great photos! Thanks Ezra!

I did a little exposure adjustment and cropping on the one featuring "yours truly."

Only 2 more bolts to go before the belay stance!
Only 2 more bolts to go before the belay stance!
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 16, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
It wasn't all wonderful at COR last week.

It was: Magnesium Chloride the City-roads week.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_chloride

The process leaves the roads wet and the soil sticky. Every vehicle visiting COR last week left with a souvenir thick coating of sticky wet dirt. I washed my car twice on the way home, and still have chunks of dirt sticking in the wheel wells and falling off in my driveway.

We had a little distant thunder on Tuesday and got rained out at 1:30 PM. I had just made it to the top of Roller-Coaster on Bath Rock when the heavens opened on me. I rigged a rappel in pouring rain and we retreated to Base Camp.

Wednesday was a little wet in the morning. We were up high in “the city” at Deviant Wall and little thunder-showers kept marching by.

Donini led Adolescent Homos early on and then it rained. After a wet wait for better weather, I followed the wet route. As Brokedown noted, we then went around to the Bloody Fingers side, where Ralph found us.

Donini put ropes up on a recently bolted route that matches up to a 5.7R named Mystery Achievement, and then the classic 5.8 Twist & Crawl. (Classic because the first protection bolt is about 40 feet up).

I hurried up the 5.7, thinking it was going to rain any second, then belayed the recently arrived Ralph up the 5.8 as the thunder picked up volume and the rain started dribbling. Ralph rushed up the route and arrived at the top just in time to note a lightning ground-strike a mile away. He encouraged a couple slightly lost younger climbers to use his rappel rope and got the hell off the rock, as it started raining harder.

It was another 1:30 PM retreat and storms rolled through all afternoon.

Thursday was windy and cold in the shade, but the afternoon was OK despite threatening clouds.

Friday, we went to nearby Castle Rock State Park which is a little lower and warmer than the city and had a great day climbing in the sun. High temp that I noted at 5:00 PM was 63 degrees F.

It was back to warm for this weekend.

Some photos by Heidi, of Donini, Ezra, & Ralph on City Girls 5.10D.

Donini leading City Girls.
Donini leading City Girls.
Credit: Fritz
Fritz belaying Donini leading City Girls.
Fritz belaying Donini leading City Girls.
Credit: Fritz
Donini leading City Girls on very overhanging, but juggy terrain.
Donini leading City Girls on very overhanging, but juggy terrain.
Credit: Fritz

Ezra stolling up City Girls.
Ezra stolling up City Girls.
Credit: Fritz
Ezra at the steeply overhanging part.
Ezra at the steeply overhanging part.
Credit: Fritz
Ezra near the top.
Ezra near the top.
Credit: Fritz

So----for some 5.10D relief, Heidi walked back down and took a "flex-salute" shot of me on 5.7 Raindance.
Fritz enjoying 5.7
Fritz enjoying 5.7
Credit: Fritz

Then Ralph finally got off his position as the "belay-meister" on Raindance and discovered his next task was to climb and clean City Girls.

He was not pleased, but "manned-up" and climbed the route competently and even seemed to enjoy the challenge.

Ralph enjoying the 5.10D challege at age 70.
Ralph enjoying the 5.10D challege at age 70.
Credit: Fritz
Ralph closeup on City-Girls.
Ralph closeup on City-Girls.
Credit: Fritz
Ralph on the overhang.
Ralph on the overhang.
Credit: Fritz

This photo shows how overhanging the last part of City Girls is.
Ralph being lowered off the overhang he just climbed.  His feet are st...
Ralph being lowered off the overhang he just climbed. His feet are still not touching rock.
Credit: Fritz

The day was not over, even though another storm was approaching. While Brokedown & Heidi hiked up and out to our vehicle, Ralph & I hiked over to catch Donini & Ezra on Bumblie Rock. They had just finished a 10a and talked Ralph into hanging around for more climbing, while I hiked out.
Ezra on top of a Bumblie Rock route.
Ezra on top of a Bumblie Rock route.
Credit: Fritz

Sigh!

Those boys!


Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
I was playing with a new camera which has a 30x optical zoom, in addition to being a 16 megapixel sensor. (Canon SX500IS).

This feature enables lots of neat stuff to be photographed:

Heidi nearing a tied-off chickenhead on the Cowboy Route, and the slin...
Heidi nearing a tied-off chickenhead on the Cowboy Route, and the sling is clearly visible in the photo.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

More of Ralph on Flaming Rock, the City Girls Route:

Ralph Tingey on "City Girls" a nominal 5.10d according to the Bingham ...
Ralph Tingey on "City Girls" a nominal 5.10d according to the Bingham guidebook. Making it look pretty easy!
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Fritz and Heidi! I know you're holding out on us! Post up!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 16, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
Simul-posting! I posted Heidi's photos at 5:39PM and Brokedown posts his and a question at 5:43PM.

Great minds do think alike!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
^^^^

Of course!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 16, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
Donini sorting gear for the day. Please note the small number of blue Camalots.

Worse yet!

In four days of climbing: I didn't see him place a blue Camalot!
Credit: Fritz

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 06:41am PT
^^^^^

He only needs a few for anchors.
MisterE

Social climber
Jun 17, 2013 - 06:55am PT
Great trip report! Man, I miss the City of Rocks...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 17, 2013 - 07:12am PT
Donini doesn't need blue camalots for anchors! His hands are anchors!

Missing the city right now too, probably can't make it until maybe Fall.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jun 17, 2013 - 07:26am PT
Great TR and photos. Looks like ya'll got er done, and in style, nice.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Jun 17, 2013 - 07:28am PT
Looks like everyone is having a great time out there, thanks for the pics and update, hope to make it out there some day.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 07:39am PT
Main thing is...WE ALL HAD FUN!
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jun 17, 2013 - 09:51am PT
^^^ That much is clear ^^^

Man what a cool trip. I'm diggin on this thread.
I wanted to come and almost did. But luckily I didn't because this happened.
Credit: philo
Credit: philo

Broken tie rod = Beached Burban.
Glad it happened at the entrance to the parking lot of the crag we went to Saturday. and not on the Interstate. Not a pleasant thought while doing 70mph. There are worse ways to spend Father's day. Wearing dirt for a shirt in a room with no view being one of them.

Glad I can say to you all that it looks like a fantastic time was had.
Glad I "missed" it.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
Philo-

Yikes! That doesn't look good! Glad you didn't try to make it given the condition of your wheels; but we all would have appreciated your presence.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 17, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
Bump for COR!

I'm back there on the evening of Wed. June 19th to meet and climb with Spider from ST, on Thursday. Any other ST'ers around?

City of Rocks sunset.
City of Rocks sunset.
Credit: Fritz

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
Next time I go...no more cantaloupe! Ugh! The store-sliced chunks really make me sick for a day and a half; I shoulda' known better!

A great piece of gear for the City is a 70 meter rope! Planning to buy one at the Neptune "Diamond" show...

Fritz-

Wish I could make it again, but tied up with a business deal.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jun 17, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
Magnesium Chloride at the city of rocks? I hate that stuff. It's bad enough that you have to suck it all winter but now they store so much of it they put it on the gravel roads in summer too. Talk about RUST!

Arne
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 17, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
Arne! Sorry that you and your great wife and climbing-kids weren't there!
It was warmer and less windy than last June!

I still have chunks of Magnisium Chloride dirt dropping off below my car. Turns out that higher humidity makes it softer and more likely to fall off coated surfices.
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