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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 16, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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It wasn't all wonderful at COR last week.
It was: Magnesium Chloride the City-roads week.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_chloride
The process leaves the roads wet and the soil sticky. Every vehicle visiting COR last week left with a souvenir thick coating of sticky wet dirt. I washed my car twice on the way home, and still have chunks of dirt sticking in the wheel wells and falling off in my driveway.
We had a little distant thunder on Tuesday and got rained out at 1:30 PM. I had just made it to the top of Roller-Coaster on Bath Rock when the heavens opened on me. I rigged a rappel in pouring rain and we retreated to Base Camp.
Wednesday was a little wet in the morning. We were up high in “the city” at Deviant Wall and little thunder-showers kept marching by.
Donini led Adolescent Homos early on and then it rained. After a wet wait for better weather, I followed the wet route. As Brokedown noted, we then went around to the Bloody Fingers side, where Ralph found us.
Donini put ropes up on a recently bolted route that matches up to a 5.7R named Mystery Achievement, and then the classic 5.8 Twist & Crawl. (Classic because the first protection bolt is about 40 feet up).
I hurried up the 5.7, thinking it was going to rain any second, then belayed the recently arrived Ralph up the 5.8 as the thunder picked up volume and the rain started dribbling. Ralph rushed up the route and arrived at the top just in time to note a lightning ground-strike a mile away. He encouraged a couple slightly lost younger climbers to use his rappel rope and got the hell off the rock, as it started raining harder.
It was another 1:30 PM retreat and storms rolled through all afternoon.
Thursday was windy and cold in the shade, but the afternoon was OK despite threatening clouds.
Friday, we went to nearby Castle Rock State Park which is a little lower and warmer than the city and had a great day climbing in the sun. High temp that I noted at 5:00 PM was 63 degrees F.
It was back to warm for this weekend.
Some photos by Heidi, of Donini, Ezra, & Ralph on City Girls 5.10D.
So----for some 5.10D relief, Heidi walked back down and took a "flex-salute" shot of me on 5.7 Raindance.
Then Ralph finally got off his position as the "belay-meister" on Raindance and discovered his next task was to climb and clean City Girls.
He was not pleased, but "manned-up" and climbed the route competently and even seemed to enjoy the challenge.
This photo shows how overhanging the last part of City Girls is.
The day was not over, even though another storm was approaching. While Brokedown & Heidi hiked up and out to our vehicle, Ralph & I hiked over to catch Donini & Ezra on Bumblie Rock. They had just finished a 10a and talked Ralph into hanging around for more climbing, while I hiked out.
Sigh!
Those boys!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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I was playing with a new camera which has a 30x optical zoom, in addition to being a 16 megapixel sensor. (Canon SX500IS).
This feature enables lots of neat stuff to be photographed:
More of Ralph on Flaming Rock, the City Girls Route:
Fritz and Heidi! I know you're holding out on us! Post up!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 16, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Simul-posting! I posted Heidi's photos at 5:39PM and Brokedown posts his and a question at 5:43PM.
Great minds do think alike!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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^^^^
Of course!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 17, 2013 - 12:13am PT
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Donini sorting gear for the day. Please note the small number of blue Camalots.
Worse yet!
In four days of climbing: I didn't see him place a blue Camalot!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 09:41am PT
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^^^^^
He only needs a few for anchors.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jun 17, 2013 - 09:55am PT
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Great trip report! Man, I miss the City of Rocks...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 17, 2013 - 10:26am PT
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Great TR and photos. Looks like ya'll got er done, and in style, nice.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jun 17, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Looks like everyone is having a great time out there, thanks for the pics and update, hope to make it out there some day.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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Main thing is...WE ALL HAD FUN!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jun 17, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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^^^ That much is clear ^^^
Man what a cool trip. I'm diggin on this thread.
I wanted to come and almost did. But luckily I didn't because this happened.
Broken tie rod = Beached Burban.
Glad it happened at the entrance to the parking lot of the crag we went to Saturday. and not on the Interstate. Not a pleasant thought while doing 70mph. There are worse ways to spend Father's day. Wearing dirt for a shirt in a room with no view being one of them.
Glad I can say to you all that it looks like a fantastic time was had.
Glad I "missed" it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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Philo-
Yikes! That doesn't look good! Glad you didn't try to make it given the condition of your wheels; but we all would have appreciated your presence.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 17, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Bump for COR!
I'm back there on the evening of Wed. June 19th to meet and climb with Spider from ST, on Thursday. Any other ST'ers around?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Next time I go...no more cantaloupe! Ugh! The store-sliced chunks really make me sick for a day and a half; I shoulda' known better!
A great piece of gear for the City is a 70 meter rope! Planning to buy one at the Neptune "Diamond" show...
Fritz-
Wish I could make it again, but tied up with a business deal.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Magnesium Chloride at the city of rocks? I hate that stuff. It's bad enough that you have to suck it all winter but now they store so much of it they put it on the gravel roads in summer too. Talk about RUST!
Arne
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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Arne! Sorry that you and your great wife and climbing-kids weren't there!
It was warmer and less windy than last June!
I still have chunks of Magnisium Chloride dirt dropping off below my car. Turns out that higher humidity makes it softer and more likely to fall off coated surfices.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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Just finished packing the case of wine. Rolling out tomorrow. Site 24 on Wednesday & Thursday.
Fritz- bring cheese. I'm not bringing a cooler.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jun 21, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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spider, sorry I missed you,
lets see some more pics Y'all
you too crimpie and Brass Nuts!!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 21, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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I had a great day with my Swiss guide, Fritz.
COR is okay but there are too many holds. Next time I'm bringing my hammer to clean some of them off.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 22, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Great day with the Spiderman, but I only took one photo.
Late afternoon, after much climbing, we bumped into some Boulderites who knew Brassnuts & Crimpergirl and their camp location.
After actually climbing until 5:00 PM, we visited them. Pente, their desert-cat was in fine shape too.
Thursday night was cold, but way too windy to build a fire, with dried cheat-grass 10 feet from our fire-pit. Brassnuts & Crimpergirl came up for a visit and some Spider-wine, but we all froze out by 9:00 PM.
Spider had to leave early the next morning, and we were both up by 6:00 A.M. for a cold & windy start to what looked like a cold & rainy first day of summer. But that's another story.
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