Tacos at City of Rocks; TR..well kinda'!

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Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
The Hossjulia initiated City of Rocks climbing get-together came off starting this past Monday, June 10th. Participants included the following: donini and his 2 German friends Max and Stephi, Fritz, Heidi, Ezra Ellis, and several non-Taco participants: Ralph T, plus several others.

I just arrived home and haven't transferred any pictures to my computer, but there will be many!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
Tuesday, day 2 of the get-together: Fritz, donini, and I went to the Decadent Wall for starters, and "Twilight" was first on the bill of fare:

donini, leading "Twilight" with Fritz belaying.
donini, leading "Twilight" with Fritz belaying.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

next stop was a route listed in the Bingham guidebook with the name sanitized to "Jay Goodwin Route." I won't list the name by which it is more commonly known to avoid pissing off the management of this site.

donini on "Nipples and Clits," AKA Jay Goodwin Route, 5.10a.
donini on "Nipples and Clits," AKA Jay Goodwin Route, 5.10a.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Jun 15, 2013 - 06:30am PT
Damn, looks like fun.
Still never been to that place.
Rick
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jun 15, 2013 - 08:11am PT
Nice looking rock!

Is Donini running it out or is Fritz a questionable belayer? Lot of slack in the rope. ;-)

Looking forward to my visit next Thursday.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 08:54am PT
After being chased off the Decadent Wall by a thunderstorm and lightning, we adjourned to Bath Rock and "Rollercoaster."

Jim starting "Rollercoaster," which turned out to be the last thing th...
Jim starting "Rollercoaster," which turned out to be the last thing that day due to another thunderstorm.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Day 3 turned out with a similar weather pattern...dodging showers and lightning. Two German climbers were sharing Fritz's campsite: Max and Stephi were from the Munich area, and knew donini from an earlier meeting in Patagonia.

Stephi made a valiant attempt on "Carol's Crack."

Jim's German friends starting "Carol's Crack."
Jim's German friends starting "Carol's Crack."
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Meanwhile, donini and Fritz were on "Adolescent Homo," a climb right next door...

Fritz, following "Adolescent Homo," &#40;5.7&#41;.
Fritz, following "Adolescent Homo," (5.7).
Credit: Brokedownclimber

The showers persisted, but we went through the "Bloody Fingers Corridor," and Max wanted to lead "Bloody Fingers."

Max cruising "Bloody Fingers." This is THE 5.10a Classic in the City.
Max cruising "Bloody Fingers." This is THE 5.10a Classic in the City.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

There was more climbing in the Bloody Fingers area, but we baile out FAST due to some nearby lightning strikes. Ralph managed to get down very fast and we all shagged a$$ outta' there, muy pronto.

Day 4:

Ezra Ellis arrived that morning, and we dawdled around camp a bit because it was pretty chilly for mid June. Jim and Ezra set off to Bath Rock, West Side where Jim led "Private Idaho" in his usual fine form. The rest of us all bailed into the Sun, where Ralph led the wonderful "Cowboy/Cowgirl Route," 5.5, ***. Since there were 4 of us he split it into 2 pitches.

Ralph Tingey leading the start to Cowboy/Cowgirl Routes on the East Si...
Ralph Tingey leading the start to Cowboy/Cowgirl Routes on the East Side of Bath Rock. This is really pure fun climbing, especially after the first 15 feet, it turns into a jug haul.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

All 4 of us climbed the first pitch, but I bailed at that point due to a continuing queasy stomach.

Ralph Tingey finishing the route with a belay point at the tree. This ...
Ralph Tingey finishing the route with a belay point at the tree. This is actually the Cowgirl Route with a slight variation to the finish, according to the Bingham guidebook.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

After this we took a lunch break, and we all decided to go down to the "Inner City," in order to escape from the wind and chilly conditions.

To be continued...

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 08:57am PT
Spider--

The belay was purely hypothetical on "Twilight," since Jim didn't place any pro on the entire 100' pitch.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 15, 2013 - 10:03am PT
Heh. I did both those unspeakable, rhymed Goodwin routes. Short but good.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jun 15, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Spider,
Donini never places gear, I did a few climbs with him last year in JT and he never placed a single piece. He figures if he can fit his hand in a crack there is no way he is coming out of it. Sounds good to me, I just made sure I plenty of room to run if he cratered.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 11:21am PT
The saga continues...

I took 116 photos this trip, and all are climbing-related; no campsite shots, but when Fritz chimes in we should have some fun stuff.

4th day afternoon; we all trudged down into the Inner City for wind avoidance and some sunny warmth. Donini and Ezra took off to find some "better routes," (that means waaay harder ones than us mere mortals can climb...)

Ralph, Fritz, Heidi and I contented ourselves with "Raindance," an very nice "full value 5.7" that has achieved "trade route status" at the City.

Ralph belayed by Ezra on the first lead of "Raindance," 5.7; entirely ...
Ralph belayed by Ezra on the first lead of "Raindance," 5.7; entirely bolt protected climbing here.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Ralph on the "full value 5.7" bolt protected travers of "Raindance."
Ralph on the "full value 5.7" bolt protected travers of "Raindance."
Credit: Brokedownclimber

I then followed the pitch, but didn't really have any good photo options; Fritz and Ezra will both post a few shots of my efforts later.

Here's Fritz getting ready to climb..

Fritz getting ready to climb "Raindance."
Fritz getting ready to climb "Raindance."
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Ezra returned from around the rock and informed Ralph that he and donini had left a rope on another climb for him to retrieve; "only an easy 5.10," he said.

Ralph cleaning and collecting donini's gear from "City Girls," an "eas...
Ralph cleaning and collecting donini's gear from "City Girls," an "easy 5.10." The guidebook has this at 5.10d.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

There are lots more photos that I could post, but I'd rather let Fritz and Ezra have some fun with their pictures first!



weezy

climber
Jun 15, 2013 - 11:57am PT
aww man, the cowboy route. one of my all time faves. whenever i'd pull into COR the first thing i'd do is go run up that thing a few times. i miss the city.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jun 15, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
Nice pics BrokeD!!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 15, 2013 - 01:22pm PT

I understand that Crimpie and BN are headed that way. . .


Rick--I haven't been either, we should head up there some day. . .
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 15, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
"__ on parade"?
They don't name 'em like that,any more!
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
Jun 15, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
The City is just way too much fun..........Thanx for sharing.....

Stevo
wilbeer

Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
Jun 15, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
Very inspirational,TFPU. Cheers.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 15, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
Just back from "The City,"---but it's only a two-hour drive for me.

Kudos to Brokedown for posting story and photos and congrats to him for getting up the first pitch of Raindance. Hope I'm still able to follow 5.7 at age 75.

Unfortunately as he traversed right to left above me, I was shooting right at the sun.

Brokedown at the start of Raindance.
Brokedown at the start of Raindance.
Credit: Fritz
Browndown climbing into the sun.
Browndown climbing into the sun.
Credit: Fritz

It was an inspirational trip for me. I had met Ralph Tingey last fall at Indian Creek, but had not climbed with him. The man is a very young & happy 70, and considering his brand new hip, is an amazing climber and an incredibly fun person to just be around.
Ralph following "Diamonds in The Rough" 10a, at Castle Rock State Park...
Ralph following "Diamonds in The Rough" 10a, at Castle Rock State Park, Idaho.
Credit: Fritz

Donini is always both fun and amazing to be around.
Donini doing a little night-time reading.  The bright light is his hea...
Donini doing a little night-time reading. The bright light is his headlamp, not his halo.
Credit: Fritz

It was also fun to climb with "the kids." Max & Stephi from Bavaria and Ezra from ST & Idaho. Ezra had the time of his life for two days of Donini abuse.
Ezra rapelling the first pitch of "Red Corner" at the Comp Wall, Castl...
Ezra rapelling the first pitch of "Red Corner" at the Comp Wall, Castle Rock State Park.
Credit: Fritz

I know Heidi has more photos as do I. I'll try to get some photos and story posted.


Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 15, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
Spider! As mentioned above, Donini doesn't "over protect" easy routes, and the belayers main job is to smoothly feed him rope. He put in one piece on Adolescent Homo, one on Private Idaho, and usually clips some, if not all bolts on Sport Routes above a 5.10 level.

Donini on Private Idaho 5.9.  His first and only piece of pro was abou...
Donini on Private Idaho 5.9. His first and only piece of pro was about 60 feet up.
No worries and less rope drag.
Credit: Fritz


T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jun 15, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Cool get together,
geezers gittin after it.
TFPU
Tad
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
When Ralph arrived and didn't know where we were, he asked some younger climbers: "Where's all the gray hair?" They sent him unerringly to us over at the base of Bloody Fingers.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jun 16, 2013 - 05:52am PT
Looks like fun, Tacos!
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