Your top five sport climbing areas and why.


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mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
Don't really travel to sport climb very often, so most are local. Spearfish Canyon (just damn good sport climbing in a cool setting), Mt. Rushmore (best load of easy to moderate sport climbs I have done), Red Rocks (only done one day but it seemed cool), Wild Iris (cool pockets good camping), and I think it was called the anarchy wall by Saint George(long).

Santa Cruz
Jun 11, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
Oliana, The perfect crag.
Margalef, Like the Pinnacles with Tufas and Pockets! And a gorgeous setting.
Ceuse, Need I say anything...
Santa Linya, It doesn't get much bigger and steeper than this.
Terradets, Tufa climbing heaven, If you climb 7c+-8a+.

I apologize... I can't think of any good sport climbing in America.

i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 11, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

Mountain climber
coalinga ca
Jun 11, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
new jack city
san luis area ( bishop peak ect...)
metal mark in fresno. still a noob sorry.

Big Wall climber
Bend Oregon
Jun 11, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
Credit: Da-Veed
Smith in the 80's
That's one.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jun 11, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
My top five sport climbing areas:


Jun 11, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
1. Petrifying wall, Squamish - mega featured technical granite (good place to watch limestone snobs fall & complain)
2. Red rocks- fun, tourist grades
3. Horne lake (closed)- European limestone with no Europeans
4. Cave rock (closed) - the history, badass routes
5. I need to go on more sport climbing trips

Edit- Mr E just reminded me, my #5 is skaha! So fun there.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
Yellow Stone Kelly
Yellow Stone Kelly
Credit: mike m
Credit: mike m
Oh yeah. Reese Mt. in the Laramie Range probably has the best sport climbing I have done. Tons of routes and lots of holds on Granite. Can't believe I forgot that one.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 11, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
I'm somewhat partial to Owens River Gorge and Clark Canyon.
Beyond that I don't consider Pinnacles a sport area, so that's out.
I very much love Rushmore.

hmmm, trying to limit it down on the last two may take some thought.

Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2013 - 12:10am PT
Winslow Wall

Eldo ;-)

Social climber
Jun 12, 2013 - 12:11am PT
Mine are all about quality AND quantity.

1. New River Gorge, because it has the best damn sport climbing in the nation, IMO.

2. Smith Rock, because choss never climbed so well.

3. Potrero Chico, because long, moderate limestone is rare like unicorn.

4. Red River Gorge, because it is the funnest sandstone ever and there is a ton of routes.

5. Having a hard time with the 5th. I want to put the Cathedral Limestone area in Utah, Joshua Tree and Skaha BC. The wife just said "Thailand".


Trad climber
Jun 12, 2013 - 12:28am PT
Shoutout for Tucson/Mt. Lemmon!! 1200+ routes...most are bolted!! Under the radar for shizzle

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Jun 12, 2013 - 01:55am PT
Edit- Mr E just reminded me, my #5 is skaha! So fun there.
Ryan, Skaha is shite, stay away, no good routes, tourists should detour to Squamish. Too sunny with a greater chance of Melanoma, full of geriatric delinquents and too many bolts.

Spread the word, stay away. Please!


Trad climber
Butte, America
Jun 12, 2013 - 02:13am PT
Allenspur, Montanapolis, and Lambert Creek dolomites--but then again, I'm pretty biased...

W. Harney on "Cold Feet"
W. Harney on "Cold Feet"
Credit: mojede

Mike M : send me your street addy for a free guide to some of my handy work in a sliver of Montana...
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 12, 2013 - 03:23am PT
as picturedabove, smith rock, and not just because of the hawtness

Jun 12, 2013 - 03:23am PT
Your right actually Rolf. Skaha is kinda chossy & rattlesnakey. I herd bigfoot is there too & he eats climbers that make tick marks & bolt cracks. Oh and there is dogs everywhere.

I change my #5 again to lembert dome.


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 12, 2013 - 07:50am PT
Cave rock - simply the best; adventure, steeps, fun!
Reese Mtn -unique, beautiful, a scene like no other
Zonerland - there's always a special place in your heart for your first
Owens - climbs are handy and plentiful
Hueco- nostalgia

Jun 12, 2013 - 09:27am PT
Y'all have got my attention with Reese Mtn. I guess August must be pretty warm there, no?

Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Jun 12, 2013 - 09:56am PT
Waterfall Wall
Secret Garden
Eagles Roost Buttress
London Wall
Stream Wall

Because they're great.

All @ Williamson Rock

Trad climber
Jun 12, 2013 - 10:10am PT
I'm no big sport climber, but there's lots of good places.

Lake Louise - I love quartzite and Lake Louise has great sport and trad side by side.

Euro - so far its Arco, Kalymnos, Sella and El Chorro, but getting ready to hit Calanques, Verdon, and Preyles, probably Ailefroid, maybe Orpierre.

States - City, Red Rocks, Owens, Smith, Uintas, AF, Big Cottonwood. I even like Table Mtn. Its all fun.
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