NPS allows fixed anchors in wilderness


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Messages 21 - 36 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
May 15, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
Cool! Spare the trees......

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
May 15, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Interesting stuff... what is a "wilderness" i guess

John Bouchard said bitd ' if c;\limbing was invented now, it would be illegal"

May 16, 2013 - 05:22am PT
Werner, they are talking about allowing these anchors:

Or perhaps they mean Conrad? Anker?

In any case, it's an anchoraging practice.

Anchor managment.


May 16, 2013 - 05:40am PT
If any of you find any of my Anchors, consider them booty.

No need to get steamed up about this.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 16, 2013 - 09:28am PT
NPS, hunh.... Will this perhaps inspire change in wilderness areas not connected to the park service? Any guesses? Educated or otherwise? How soon can we drill in zonerland again?

On a more positive note;
I'm glad they're allowing Conrad into the wilderness, didn't realize he'd been fixed.

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 16, 2013 - 09:29am PT
Yes, by all means, let's put more man-made things in wilderness.

Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
May 16, 2013 - 11:05am PT
because a group of hikers wanted to find some way to get all the climbers off the rocks because they didn't like to see climbers on rocks...bolts were just an excuse. That fringe is still out there

Oh yeah, Sierra clubbers

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 16, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
And that tom the photographer guy in the superstitions! Totally same rationale!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 16, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Conrad has NOT been fixed!

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 16, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
He's still broken?
The Larry

Moab, UT
May 16, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
If he ain't broke don't fix him.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
May 16, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
the Fet

May 16, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
John Muir on George Anderson's ascent of Half Dome:

Mr. Anderson began with Conway's old rope, part of which still remains in place, and resolutely drilled his way to the top, inserting eyebolts five or six feet apart, and making his rope fast to each in succession, resting his foot on the last bolt while he drilled for the next above. Occasionally some irregularity in the curve or slight foothold would enable him to climb fifteen or twenty feet independently of the rope, which he would pass and begin drilling again, the whole being accomplished in a few days. From this slender beginning he will now proceed to construct a substantial stairway which he hopes to complete in time for next year's travel; and as he is a man of rare energy the thing will surely be done. Then, all may sing "Excelsior" in perfect safety...
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 16, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
When is the last time anybody sang Excelsior on the summit of Half Dome (besides Conrad, of course)?
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
May 16, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
From the Wilderness Act:


(c) A wilderness, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain. An area of wilderness is further defined to mean in this Act an area of undeveloped Federal land retaining its primeval character and influence, without permanent improvements or human habitation, which is protected and managed so as to preserve its natural conditions and which (1) generally appears to have been affected primarily by the forces of nature, with the imprint of man's work substantially unnoticeable; (2) has outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation; (3) has at least five thousand acres of land or is of sufficient size as to make practicable its preservation and use in an unimpaired condition; and (4) may also contain ecological, geological, or other features of scientific, educational, scenic, or historical value.


(c) Except as specifically provided for in this Act, and subject to existing private rights, there shall be no commercial enterprise and no permanent road within any wilderness area designated by this Act and, except as necessary to meet minimum requirements for the administration of the area for the purpose of this Act (including measures required in emergencies involving the health and safety of persons within the area), there shall be no temporary road, no use of motor vehicles, motorized equipment or motorboats, no landing of aircraft, no other form of mechanical transport, and no structure or installation within any such area.

Trad climber
the middle of CA
May 16, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
Bolts are to climbers as trails are to hikers. Makes use more practical, with good arguments for and against each.

I'm happy the access fund pulled this off and it seems to be written reasonably, IMHO
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