THE ROAD IS OPEN! Kings Canyon is waiting

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 41 - 60 of total 64 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
May 3, 2013 - 12:16am PT
All hail Mr. G.


btw, Craig peer was up there just a couple seasons ago. Turned back due to snow, yeti, and not enough montepulciano.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
May 3, 2013 - 12:31am PT
Interesting....
DRV

Trad climber
May 3, 2013 - 12:59am PT
What does "Zumwalt Crack" go at?

I tried getting into that crack but was unsuccessful...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2013 - 02:25am PT
Good question! I've been up to it twice. The first time my wife changed her mind once I roped up so we bailed. When we tried Monday we didn't think we would need two big pieces for the first pitch to gain the crack in the picture. Once I got to that little overhang with the 5" crack we realized we blew it (only about 20 ft up). If you find a piece of grey webbing with an old crappy biner tied around a chockstone, enjoy my booty!

Brandon Thau did the FA but I don't know much more about it. Looks really fun and moderate after the hard part down in the trees...

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab

Oh the joys of trying to climb with no info
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 3, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
Zumalt looks great. The over hanging OW 25' up looks to be the crux. Crab and I will be back.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
May 3, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
That probably was Phil Gross. He lives just behind the Fire Station in Cedar Grove and has been climbing in the area for many years. He keeps threating to do a guide and has a ton of info. He works up there and so he is the go to local.Everyone up there can tell you where he is on most days.Its a small world of employees....an outpost.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
May 3, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
Some Old Topos....
Credit: Radish
Credit: Radish
Credit: Radish
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 4, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Kings Canyon....

A rude place to climb, big approaches, heat, unknown routes, zero climbers....

A recipe for adventure.

Looking to see a TR for the Matterhunk, that will be fun!

The George of Despair ... some of the best climbing I have ever done starts with a Kings Canyon hike.

I wonder just what lies in the other canyons dropping off of the Monarch Divide into the middle fork???



limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
Mee too, I've only had a glimpse...

Credit: limpingcrab
One canyon south of GOD. Obelisk in the distance and a few things to climb in the foreground.


Credit: limpingcrab
Above the canyons to the north of GOD. Beautiful, but not much to climb up here. Down over the rim of the canyon there's probably lots.


Credit: limpingcrab
Tehipite Dome in the lower left, Cobra Turret (GOD) in the right center. Fuzzy cropped shot of the canyons north of Gorge of Despair.


Edit: Wow, those pictures suck and aren't very helpful. I should probably get a point and shoot with better resolution
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
May 4, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
In your last shot the Cobra is the formation far right, centered vertically, directly behind the near summit. Most of the god is out of the frame to the right (west)and Corporale and Commandante (below, north of Cobra are hidden from view by the near terrain.

Is your first pic from Harrington? Looks like the west side of the Silver Turret and formations below o the north.
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
May 4, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Yeah, last year I went climbing over there but the peregrines closed the area.

Why don't they go to the ocean or something.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
Kris, that's the one I meant when I said "right center," but I worded it weird so I see the misunderstanding. And ya, the first one was from Harrington. I couldn't get anyone to climb in the GOD with me last summer so I day hiked in to peek at it. Soooo cool up there! I'm jealous of how many times you've climbed there. Someday...

Edit: moose, I've never heard of falcon closures in the canyon? Ignorance is bliss I guess! Unless you're thinking of Chimney Rocks, those birds definitely need to move to the ocean
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
May 4, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
Peregrines in the GOD?
ec

climber
ca
May 4, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
There's peregrines on Tehipite. They very well could move to the GOD at times...

 ec
Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 24, 2013 - 11:09am PT
I wonder if anyone's been up the North Face of The Grand Sentinel in the last few years? I have heard that the "Robbins/Chouinard" route, also called "The Green Dihedral" goes free at 5.10c.

I'd be really surprised at that. There were several verticle pitches in that dihedral where the cracks were choked with dirt and covered with hanging plants. I had to garden to find something to bang a pin into. Didn't look like anyone had ever been there ( since I don't think it gets climbed very often - full on adventure route ). All the dirt and plants I knocked down would go down my belayers shirt, work there way down his pants, and pour out on his shoes. I was glad it was my lead. We called that section " The Grand Vizars Garden Party ".

Free at 5.10c? " Good luck storming the castle " !

Near the top of pitch 12. July 24, 1984.
Near the top of pitch 12. July 24, 1984.
Credit: Ben Rumsen

Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 24, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.


That's why I'm kinda over the "keep SEKI secret" stuff. So many good routes getting taken back by nature or with bolts that need replacing. Just a little bit of attention would be a good thing, and it won't ruin the solitude. (hence, this thread)

BTW, if any of you young studs wants to replace some bolts on Chernobyl Wall on North Dome, I'll provide the bolts and a box of drill bits !! Re - bolting Freak Show was enough for my sorry old ass.

Credit: Ben Rumsen

Split Lips and Broken Bits - pitch 1.
Split Lips and Broken Bits - pitch 1.
Credit: Ben Rumsen

Split Lips and Broken Bits - pitch 1.
Split Lips and Broken Bits - pitch 1.
Credit: Ben Rumsen

First ascent of " Jerks on a Joyride ".
First ascent of " Jerks on a Joyride ".
Credit: Ben Rumsen
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 24, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Freak show was rebolted by Big Craig a few years ago.

Fun route.
Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 24, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
You and Munge need to go do the 2nd ascent of Invisible Nebulie !

Credit: Ben Rumsen
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
I'm no stud but I still might take you up on that offer Ben! Only problem is my first baby was born Monday so it would be hard to spend my limited days this season hammering away. His name in Ben and I know lots of climbers named Ben so I hope it runs in the name.

I think at least two routes have already been re-bolted on the Chernobyl wall but there's a lot left and I love slab!
Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 24, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Really? Which routes? I started re-bolting " Kibbles and Bits " on the right side a couple of years ago, but a huge spring avalanche / rockfall hit the base, and sheared off at least two 3/8" bolts I had installed to replace the existing 1/4"ers. I found that a bit dis-heartning, so I gave up ( not to mention that rockfall makes me kind of nervous - me no like ).
Messages 41 - 60 of total 64 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews