Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
All hail Mr. G.
btw, Craig peer was up there just a couple seasons ago. Turned back due to snow, yeti, and not enough montepulciano.
|
|
PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
|
|
Interesting....
|
|
DRV
Trad climber
|
|
What does "Zumwalt Crack" go at?
I tried getting into that crack but was unsuccessful...
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2013 - 02:25am PT
|
Good question! I've been up to it twice. The first time my wife changed her mind once I roped up so we bailed. When we tried Monday we didn't think we would need two big pieces for the first pitch to gain the crack in the picture. Once I got to that little overhang with the 5" crack we realized we blew it (only about 20 ft up). If you find a piece of grey webbing with an old crappy biner tied around a chockstone, enjoy my booty!
Brandon Thau did the FA but I don't know much more about it. Looks really fun and moderate after the hard part down in the trees...
Oh the joys of trying to climb with no info
|
|
DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
|
|
Zumalt looks great. The over hanging OW 25' up looks to be the crux. Crab and I will be back.
|
|
Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
|
|
That probably was Phil Gross. He lives just behind the Fire Station in Cedar Grove and has been climbing in the area for many years. He keeps threating to do a guide and has a ton of info. He works up there and so he is the go to local.Everyone up there can tell you where he is on most days.Its a small world of employees....an outpost.
|
|
Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
|
|
Some Old Topos....
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
Kings Canyon....
A rude place to climb, big approaches, heat, unknown routes, zero climbers....
A recipe for adventure.
Looking to see a TR for the Matterhunk, that will be fun!
The George of Despair ... some of the best climbing I have ever done starts with a Kings Canyon hike.
I wonder just what lies in the other canyons dropping off of the Monarch Divide into the middle fork???
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
|
Mee too, I've only had a glimpse...
One canyon south of GOD. Obelisk in the distance and a few things to climb in the foreground.
Above the canyons to the north of GOD. Beautiful, but not much to climb up here. Down over the rim of the canyon there's probably lots.
Tehipite Dome in the lower left, Cobra Turret (GOD) in the right center. Fuzzy cropped shot of the canyons north of Gorge of Despair.
Edit: Wow, those pictures suck and aren't very helpful. I should probably get a point and shoot with better resolution
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
In your last shot the Cobra is the formation far right, centered vertically, directly behind the near summit. Most of the god is out of the frame to the right (west)and Corporale and Commandante (below, north of Cobra are hidden from view by the near terrain.
Is your first pic from Harrington? Looks like the west side of the Silver Turret and formations below o the north.
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
|
Kris, that's the one I meant when I said "right center," but I worded it weird so I see the misunderstanding. And ya, the first one was from Harrington. I couldn't get anyone to climb in the GOD with me last summer so I day hiked in to peek at it. Soooo cool up there! I'm jealous of how many times you've climbed there. Someday...
Edit: moose, I've never heard of falcon closures in the canyon? Ignorance is bliss I guess! Unless you're thinking of Chimney Rocks, those birds definitely need to move to the ocean
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
Peregrines in the GOD?
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
There's peregrines on Tehipite. They very well could move to the GOD at times...
 ec
|
|
Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
|
|
|
May 24, 2013 - 11:09am PT
|
I wonder if anyone's been up the North Face of The Grand Sentinel in the last few years? I have heard that the "Robbins/Chouinard" route, also called "The Green Dihedral" goes free at 5.10c.
I'd be really surprised at that. There were several verticle pitches in that dihedral where the cracks were choked with dirt and covered with hanging plants. I had to garden to find something to bang a pin into. Didn't look like anyone had ever been there ( since I don't think it gets climbed very often - full on adventure route ). All the dirt and plants I knocked down would go down my belayers shirt, work there way down his pants, and pour out on his shoes. I was glad it was my lead. We called that section " The Grand Vizars Garden Party ".
Free at 5.10c? " Good luck storming the castle " !
|
|
Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
|
|
|
May 24, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
|
Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.
That's why I'm kinda over the "keep SEKI secret" stuff. So many good routes getting taken back by nature or with bolts that need replacing. Just a little bit of attention would be a good thing, and it won't ruin the solitude. (hence, this thread)
BTW, if any of you young studs wants to replace some bolts on Chernobyl Wall on North Dome, I'll provide the bolts and a box of drill bits !! Re - bolting Freak Show was enough for my sorry old ass.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
May 24, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
|
Freak show was rebolted by Big Craig a few years ago.
Fun route.
|
|
Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
|
|
|
May 24, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
|
You and Munge need to go do the 2nd ascent of Invisible Nebulie !
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
|
I'm no stud but I still might take you up on that offer Ben! Only problem is my first baby was born Monday so it would be hard to spend my limited days this season hammering away. His name in Ben and I know lots of climbers named Ben so I hope it runs in the name.
I think at least two routes have already been re-bolted on the Chernobyl wall but there's a lot left and I love slab!
|
|
Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
|
|
|
May 24, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
|
Really? Which routes? I started re-bolting " Kibbles and Bits " on the right side a couple of years ago, but a huge spring avalanche / rockfall hit the base, and sheared off at least two 3/8" bolts I had installed to replace the existing 1/4"ers. I found that a bit dis-heartning, so I gave up ( not to mention that rockfall makes me kind of nervous - me no like ).
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
May 24, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
|
Yes, nice "modernizing" on 'Freak Show'! Nice job Meester Peer! :)
Mount Bago has some wild options on it. Surprised I haven't heard anyone consider adventurous FA's on it. Limping?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!