THE ROAD IS OPEN! Kings Canyon is waiting

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limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
No people, no beta, just you and a buch of rocks!

Road opened early this year. This place would be a popular destination if there wasn't infinite world class climbing within 100 miles in every direction.

North Dome
North Dome
Credit: limpingcrab
Zumwalt Meadow
Zumwalt Meadow
Credit: limpingcrab
DaveyTree on Nowhere To Run
DaveyTree on Nowhere To Run
Credit: limpingcrab
Grand Sentinel
Grand Sentinel
Credit: limpingcrab
Zumwalt Crack
Zumwalt Crack
Credit: limpingcrab
Top-rope boulder
Top-rope boulder
Credit: limpingcrab
Roaring River Falls area
Roaring River Falls area
Credit: limpingcrab

Go git sum!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 30, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
This place looks terrible. Will stay in Yosemite.
Urizen

Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
Apr 30, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
According to the SEKI website, Hwy. 180 to Cedar Grove is "day use only," whatever that means, until May 22.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Ya the campgrounds and services are closed until later in May, but they don't close the gate or anything. You probably won't get bothered, but you can always camp in a turnout in the forest just outside the park border near Boyden Cave anyway.
ec

climber
ca
Apr 30, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
How WAS that Nowhere to Run?
micronut

Trad climber
Apr 30, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
Hey Daniel,
You open Friday? Adam's out and I'm lookin fer a pardner. I've never been to Morro.....wanna show me that Buttress?

Scott
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 30, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
nice! may have to make it happen next weekend.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
I thought what we did of Nowhere to Run was GREAT! I even had fun on the approach pitch. There may have been a little bit of sandbaggery (or I suck at crack climbing) on the first pitches so we were intimidated and too beat up to try the 11a 5th pitch, but it looks sweet. And I'll definitely be back for it and the 5.8 splitter we could see on the 6th pitch! So ya, great climb that I'll do again this summer when I get better at crack. You found a gem there.

Scott: I wish, but with the baby due 17 days from Friday I'll be staying around until he falls out. If you can talk Steph into it then I'm in :) Stay tuned, we'll get out this summer for sure!
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
Apr 30, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
(Waves hand) shhhhh this isn't the valley you're looking for....
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 30, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
Jesus, NORTH TO THE MFING BONE IS SO ON THE MF TICK LIST!!!!



Hot dayum, that is the good right there in KC.
ec

climber
ca
Apr 30, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
sandbaggery


LOL! I wouldn't think so, however some of those pitches require some mastery of multiple sizes of crack in a rope length. If ya aren't ready to change-up on the fly, it can be tiring on the mind (at least). The crux pitch starts a bit overhanging, a fisty move to 1.25 to hands to fingers. If I recall, the rest is in the hand section. Otherwise, it's a pumper. Let me know if you think the crux is the 1.25 or turning the finger crack after the hands section...

There are no other continuous crack routes on the nose of that buttress. It'd be difficult to get off route, IMO.

 ec
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
Won't argue with that assessment, I need to work on crack more. Still, if p3 is what the 5.8 and 5.9 feels like, the crux will be a beast! I'll find the breakdown on the crux pitch and post up, leading that clean will be one of my summer goals.

The crack system is obvious from the road and pretty easy to follow on route, but the start might be awkward for some to find down there in the trees. Here's what the start looks like after a bit of scrambling, for anyone interested. Just an "approach pitch," but I liked it.
Nowhere To Run, p1
Nowhere To Run, p1
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 1, 2013 - 11:35am PT
I missed your post and responded on another with some pics and beta.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/721029/Nowhere-To-Run-Kings-Canyon-Info-Request

I must really need crack practice! Awesome route though. Hard version of Nutcracker but with more variation of crack size. Definitely had my thinking cap on at times.

Another view of North Dome
Another view of North Dome
Credit: DaveyTree
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 1, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Really, there's climbing there?

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 1, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Anybody here ever do: "Black Satin Slips" ??????

an old Herb route.

Kris and I did part of it.... not many bolts and the suckers are all bent over from ice fall. We were slinging the bolts with wires and after a few pitches we got tired of doing that.


Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 1, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Not really that much. Most of it is bouldering
Kings Canyon end of road view
Kings Canyon end of road view
Credit: DaveyTree
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.

That's why I'm kinda over the "keep SEKI secret" stuff. So many good routes getting taken back by nature or with bolts that need replacing. Just a little bit of attention would be a good thing, and it won't ruin the solitude. (hence, this thread)

Off the bottom of the page it goes!
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
May 1, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
no way! keep it quiet frpm the younguns'! King's Canyon - and all the peaks, towers and domes around the rim and in the high backcountry - are all filled with giant, radioactive, man-eating spiders that shoot lasers out of their assh*oles: STAY. AWAY.

(what happens if those boulderinger-types discover THE boulder on Bubb's Creek - ? Better go send and chalk up a shark farting out a lightning bolt on that sucker this w/e..)
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
May 1, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Mucci -

North To The Bone....check.
My Own Private Idaho....check.
Invisible Nebulae, Grand Sentinel.....check.

All your other wall projects......<insert sound of screeching tires>
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 1, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
Move along now...Nothing to see here.
micronut

Trad climber
May 1, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
Credit: micronut

Ahhh....der Matterhunk. Zis is on ze list for chur. Ze rock...she has a bad....how you say...."reputacion"....but who hasn't danced wit zee girl wit zee bad reputacion before eh?
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
May 1, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Too bad all the rocks are covered with lichen flakes, and it's scorching hot in the summer. Would be really nice if it were open all year!

There is some good rock on North Dome, Grand Sentinel, The Sphinx, Bubbs Creek Wall, anything above 6000 feet elevation is usually good to go. But in the canyon it's pretty scrappy...I'd love to check out some of the new routes, like that Roaring River one.

How about The Grand Dike?
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 1, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
Matterhunk is so beautiful. Def on the list. And it's not like there are about 5 other aretes just like it or bigger.

Gross said he was going to include some bouldering and ice climbing in his guide.
ec

climber
ca
May 1, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Herb, Leversee and I climbed the Matterhunk arÍte. The stone on that was as good as granite. 'Lots of cool climbing. In the Moser Guide, Vernon slams it. However, he never seemed to keen on route finding, so consider the source.

 ec

There's an impressive limestone massif across the river. Leversee did it and found that Mark Powell, et al had done it in the way back...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
Yikes, I've spent lots of time on the marble up yonder and I don't trust the stuff. I'd climb it with someone, but I'd wear double helmets and a parachute.

Grand dike

If you're talking about the actual Grand Dike up Grizzly Creek, it looks like a fun adventure but I haven't checked out the rock up close.

My only shot of Grand Dike
My only shot of Grand Dike
Credit: limpingcrab

If you're talking about the giant marble fin that some refer to as Grand Dike across from Boyden Cavern and the Matterhunk, that arete would be an EPIC adventure!

What some people mistakenly call the "Grand Dike."  Sure is grander th...
What some people mistakenly call the "Grand Dike." Sure is grander than the real thing though
Credit: limpingcrab

Edit: EC, you know any more about the climb on the big boy above? It looks awesome.
ec

climber
ca
May 1, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
A route on the Matterhunk slab would totally be doable. The limestone is solid.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
It's cost a fair chunk of change in hardware though. How about the big rock that Leversee (and Powell) did? Any more details? That's the one in the pic right there ^^^
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 1, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
And just how does one get across the river to get to the Matterhunk either
alive or without having to bushwack 5 miles?

I'm pretty sure you don't cross here...
Credit: Reilly
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
May 1, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
I've never climbed limestone in the states, I should remedy that!!!

Looks beautiful! Is it edgy, sharp, and pockety like I'd expect?
ec

climber
ca
May 1, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
I'll have to hit Leversee up for info. I'm pretty sure they crossed the river in the autumn tho...

 ec

Edit: Brandon, not pocketed, but runnels, edges and cracks.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
May 1, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
Both of the limestone crags look really good. I've always been surprised there aren't a bunch of long bolted routes on those things. Or maybe there are by now?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
May 1, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
Matterhunk is not the one pictured above with the large white rock scar on it.

Or, at least, the Hickey photo on pg. 162 in the Moser Vernon guide shows it being a different rock formation.

The pics and responses above make it seem like the one with the white scar is it. Just wanted to clarify.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 2, 2013 - 12:02am PT
That's correct Munge. The pic micronut posted is the right one. The one with the white pterodactyl poop on it is across the canyon. The arete looks longer than the Matterhunk.

Gross was telling Crab and I there is some kind of ceiling for drills. So at some point you have to do bolts with only hand drills. Those marble walls are calling someone to invest.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
May 2, 2013 - 12:02am PT
The white scar rock is across the river. I don't know what it's called but it looks good.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 2, 2013 - 01:42am PT
Holy chit!

Munge we gotta go get that mother NOW!

All these bastards are swarming on the marble, sharpening the bitz for the Ridge blitz.

It all looked 5.9 from behind my SNPA.

GET SOME
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
May 2, 2013 - 01:55am PT
roger that. River crossing this time of year would be a hassle bad photo opportunity.

But don't think I'm not getting into kings this year. It's on. Think I got the Cpeer willing to heckle from the ground at least. LOL

rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
May 2, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
Grand Sentinel
Grand Sentinel
Credit: rincon
I wonder if anyone's been up the North Face of The Grand Sentinel in the last few years? I have heard that the "Robbins/Chouinard" route, also called "The Green Dihedral" goes free at 5.10c.

I went up there with a partner to try it once, but the 1st pitch was dripping wet and mossy so we didn't do it. Looks really good, and this is a dry year so wetness may not be an issue. The face stays in the shade most of the day, so the usual Kings Canyon heat is not an issue, as long as you do the approach in the morning.
http://www.summitpost.org/robbins-chouinard-route/157006

Grand Dike
Grand Dike
Credit: rincon
Here's my picture of the Grand Dike.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Ya I'd be curious to know if anyone's been up Grand Sentinel recently. I'm gonna guess nobody has, but you never know. Where did you hear the regular route has been freed? That would be awesome! The old guide has "Royal Flush" free at 10c but it only shares the first few pitches with the regular route and I don't think it's had a second ascent.

Looks like we've done the same trail, but you got a way better picture of grand dike! All those little towers have been climbed, but the west faces are a little taller and I'm sure there's more there for a few adventurous masochists.

so the usual Kings Canyon heat is not an issue

When you grow up in an oven Kings Canyon feels great by comparison all summer!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
May 2, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
It was at least 10 years ago, we were hanging out messing with climbing gear in the parking lot at Roads End, and a guy in a pickup truck stopped to talk with us and ask us what we were climbing. He seemed to know a lot about climbing in Kings Canyon, and he told us it went free, and he called it The Green Dihedral. I don't remember his name though. Maybe he was just trolling us! The approach to the Grand Sentinel climbs up through one of the most awesome talus slopes in the canyon, with boulders the size of houses.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 2, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
It was prob Phil Gross. He has worked up there for 15 years he said.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
May 3, 2013 - 12:16am PT
All hail Mr. G.


btw, Craig peer was up there just a couple seasons ago. Turned back due to snow, yeti, and not enough montepulciano.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
May 3, 2013 - 12:31am PT
Interesting....
DRV

Trad climber
May 3, 2013 - 12:59am PT
What does "Zumwalt Crack" go at?

I tried getting into that crack but was unsuccessful...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2013 - 02:25am PT
Good question! I've been up to it twice. The first time my wife changed her mind once I roped up so we bailed. When we tried Monday we didn't think we would need two big pieces for the first pitch to gain the crack in the picture. Once I got to that little overhang with the 5" crack we realized we blew it (only about 20 ft up). If you find a piece of grey webbing with an old crappy biner tied around a chockstone, enjoy my booty!

Brandon Thau did the FA but I don't know much more about it. Looks really fun and moderate after the hard part down in the trees...

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab

Oh the joys of trying to climb with no info
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 3, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
Zumalt looks great. The over hanging OW 25' up looks to be the crux. Crab and I will be back.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
May 3, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
That probably was Phil Gross. He lives just behind the Fire Station in Cedar Grove and has been climbing in the area for many years. He keeps threating to do a guide and has a ton of info. He works up there and so he is the go to local.Everyone up there can tell you where he is on most days.Its a small world of employees....an outpost.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
May 3, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
Some Old Topos....
Credit: Radish
Credit: Radish
Credit: Radish
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 4, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Kings Canyon....

A rude place to climb, big approaches, heat, unknown routes, zero climbers....

A recipe for adventure.

Looking to see a TR for the Matterhunk, that will be fun!

The George of Despair ... some of the best climbing I have ever done starts with a Kings Canyon hike.

I wonder just what lies in the other canyons dropping off of the Monarch Divide into the middle fork???



limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
Mee too, I've only had a glimpse...

Credit: limpingcrab
One canyon south of GOD. Obelisk in the distance and a few things to climb in the foreground.


Credit: limpingcrab
Above the canyons to the north of GOD. Beautiful, but not much to climb up here. Down over the rim of the canyon there's probably lots.


Credit: limpingcrab
Tehipite Dome in the lower left, Cobra Turret (GOD) in the right center. Fuzzy cropped shot of the canyons north of Gorge of Despair.


Edit: Wow, those pictures suck and aren't very helpful. I should probably get a point and shoot with better resolution
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
May 4, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
In your last shot the Cobra is the formation far right, centered vertically, directly behind the near summit. Most of the god is out of the frame to the right (west)and Corporale and Commandante (below, north of Cobra are hidden from view by the near terrain.

Is your first pic from Harrington? Looks like the west side of the Silver Turret and formations below o the north.
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
May 4, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Yeah, last year I went climbing over there but the peregrines closed the area.

Why don't they go to the ocean or something.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
Kris, that's the one I meant when I said "right center," but I worded it weird so I see the misunderstanding. And ya, the first one was from Harrington. I couldn't get anyone to climb in the GOD with me last summer so I day hiked in to peek at it. Soooo cool up there! I'm jealous of how many times you've climbed there. Someday...

Edit: moose, I've never heard of falcon closures in the canyon? Ignorance is bliss I guess! Unless you're thinking of Chimney Rocks, those birds definitely need to move to the ocean
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
May 4, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
Peregrines in the GOD?
ec

climber
ca
May 4, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
There's peregrines on Tehipite. They very well could move to the GOD at times...

 ec
Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 24, 2013 - 11:09am PT
I wonder if anyone's been up the North Face of The Grand Sentinel in the last few years? I have heard that the "Robbins/Chouinard" route, also called "The Green Dihedral" goes free at 5.10c.

I'd be really surprised at that. There were several verticle pitches in that dihedral where the cracks were choked with dirt and covered with hanging plants. I had to garden to find something to bang a pin into. Didn't look like anyone had ever been there ( since I don't think it gets climbed very often - full on adventure route ). All the dirt and plants I knocked down would go down my belayers shirt, work there way down his pants, and pour out on his shoes. I was glad it was my lead. We called that section " The Grand Vizars Garden Party ".

Free at 5.10c? " Good luck storming the castle " !

Near the top of pitch 12. July 24, 1984.
Near the top of pitch 12. July 24, 1984.
Credit: Ben Rumsen

Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 24, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.


That's why I'm kinda over the "keep SEKI secret" stuff. So many good routes getting taken back by nature or with bolts that need replacing. Just a little bit of attention would be a good thing, and it won't ruin the solitude. (hence, this thread)

BTW, if any of you young studs wants to replace some bolts on Chernobyl Wall on North Dome, I'll provide the bolts and a box of drill bits !! Re - bolting Freak Show was enough for my sorry old ass.

Credit: Ben Rumsen

Split Lips and Broken Bits - pitch 1.
Split Lips and Broken Bits - pitch 1.
Credit: Ben Rumsen

Split Lips and Broken Bits - pitch 1.
Split Lips and Broken Bits - pitch 1.
Credit: Ben Rumsen

First ascent of " Jerks on a Joyride ".
First ascent of " Jerks on a Joyride ".
Credit: Ben Rumsen
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 24, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Freak show was rebolted by Big Craig a few years ago.

Fun route.
Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 24, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
You and Munge need to go do the 2nd ascent of Invisible Nebulie !

Credit: Ben Rumsen
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
I'm no stud but I still might take you up on that offer Ben! Only problem is my first baby was born Monday so it would be hard to spend my limited days this season hammering away. His name in Ben and I know lots of climbers named Ben so I hope it runs in the name.

I think at least two routes have already been re-bolted on the Chernobyl wall but there's a lot left and I love slab!
Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 24, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Really? Which routes? I started re-bolting " Kibbles and Bits " on the right side a couple of years ago, but a huge spring avalanche / rockfall hit the base, and sheared off at least two 3/8" bolts I had installed to replace the existing 1/4"ers. I found that a bit dis-heartning, so I gave up ( not to mention that rockfall makes me kind of nervous - me no like ).
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
May 24, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Yes, nice "modernizing" on 'Freak Show'! Nice job Meester Peer! :)

Mount Bago has some wild options on it. Surprised I haven't heard anyone consider adventurous FA's on it. Limping?





limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
Someone told me split lips and broken bits as well as kibbles and bits got rebolted, but it sounds like you were the one doing it and I probably got an incomplete story.

Mooch, I've got a list of places to look for FAs on my computer and Mt. Bago is up near the top! So much to do in the mountains I can barely sleep at night...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 27, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Ben R. is wise.

Grand Sentinel slogging could be fun.

Team Peer, I'm hoping is going to run quarter inch hose from a wine truck at Zumwalt up to the base. Pump the cabernet to the base, I say!
Ben Rumsen

Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
May 28, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
Better to entice you from the summit with a really good bottle of Brunello........
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