Nowhere to Run was one of the best routes that I had done down in Kings for a multi-pitch crack route.
The buttress this route is on is along the river where there was this 'motor nature trail' west of the bridge prior to Zumwalt Meadows. I do not know if the 'trail' even exists any longer. If you view the buttress from afar you can see the splitter cracks on it. If the trail is there, you could pretty much drive and park near the base of the thing.
The first pitch is usually full of leaves and there is a left-hand or right-hand variation. The left one is what I recommend. Once past that you cannot miss the cracks. 'All sizes from finger to O/W. The last lead (5th?) is the crux with a steep section of 1.25", then as the angle eases, I remember a hand-size rest before a hellish 1.0" section. As a whole, the pitch is pretty relentless, but really good (bad ass). There are some rap anchors up high of dbl .25"chers and trees. 'BYOB(olts) and slings.
You might even find a couple of Friends up stuck there; one on pitch 2 and on 5. The two times I had done the route, two different partners walked them back badly.
edit: I've got a black and white looking down on the crux pitch somewhere, but it doesn't do the route justice.
Limpingcrab and I climbed the first 3 pitches on Monday. Awesome climb but we both felt it was a bit sandbagged. Hardest .8/.9 sections I have ever done on any climb even though I am like a: professional grade climbing dude.
For those who have not been to Kings Canyon, OMG! There is so much rock there is it funny. FAs everywhere you look. We ran into Phil Gross where we parked below the climb at the horse coral off the dirt road by the bridge. Very cool guy and has put up a ton of stuff. He put up a 7 pitch sport route to the left of roaring rapids that starts at 5.4 and gradually greats harder with the last pitch at .10c.
He also shared about a 9p route that you rap off the road into the river gorge and climb, a 2p crack left a ways of Nowhere to Run, Sunny Slabs which is just above and right of of the parking lot below North Dome and are short sport, trad and mixed lines, and a 14p project sport route he is working on. Gross said there are about 40-50 climbs in he original guide and he has about another 100 he has added over the last 15 years. He plans to do a guide book covering yuca point to roads end. Very cool genuine guy.
Crab and I got to roads end under 2 hours from Fresburg without speeding too much. We almost turned around after seeing 2 cars. I hate crowds. Then in the afternoon we were pissed because we saw like 6 cars and one guy and girl actually walked up close enough to where I was obligated to say hello as he took pictures. I hate crowds.
Needless to say it is like a Patterson Bluff, Shuteye, Balls area. Totally amazing and in any other State or place in the world it would be the main destination but thank God everyone is hung up with Yosemite to keep the adventure big.
Obvious crack heading up rt of the shadowed book in the middle