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franky

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
*North Ridge of Wells Peak Beta Post*

Beta from Ian Nielson and Ben Ditto, who did the route recently.

P1: start in short right facing dihedral which turns into a right angling ramp, belay standing on a awesome knob.

P2: Continue up right angling ramp, transfer left to parallel ramp when possible. Continue up and right on this ramp to an awesome belay stance in an alcove below a scary looking (but small) flake.

P3: Climb up and around scary flake (bomber when we climbed the route) to large right leaning corner system. Follow cracks up the right side of the slab (dirty) to a belay stance at a thin crack that traverses left and up out a steep wall covered in bright green/yellow lichen.

P4: Traverse thin crack left and up onto a slab. Get funky gear behind a little flake and climb up and left to a good ledge (spicy). Belay at this ledge for your followers sake. Short pitch.

P5: simul-climb straight left under a large slab on the dike/ledge thing. Belay at a good stance around the left side of the buttress at a good stance where a crack leads up onto the slab. THIS DESCRIPTION DIFFERS FROM THE LINE ON THE TOPO.

P6: Climb up thin crack to an alcove below a roof.

P7: Climb over roof and up thru another steep section (bouldery moves thru this crux)

At this point it all blends together, the route wanders from left to right on the progressively narrowing ridge. At one point we found ourselves a little stumped up high and found passage around to the left side of the ridge. Good ledges up high if you have to bivy. I THINK we used a 70. Twin ropes might be a safe bet. Double rack. Lots of runners.

Credit: franky

Credit: franky
The obvious right leaning ramp system on the clean wall is the first three pitches.


T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Apr 1, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
Credit: T H
ruppell

climber
Apr 1, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
Nice bump biotch

I missed Frankys post from last June. We started it in a completely different spot. That route is rad. It's also not a ridge until about 400 feet up. It's more like a buttress. My partner and I started it on the pillar in the bottom left of the second photo. The pillars just left of a shadow line and if you look cosely there's an OW splitting the pillar. We started there and trended up and right to gain the ridge. I'll have to go back and check out Frankys way soon.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Apr 1, 2014 - 11:20pm PT
cool
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