Wheeler Crest info sort after

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Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 21, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Hello friends, I have been looking at the great escape wall for a long ass time now so I guess it is time to climb it, any route info would be great thank you.
ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 11:48am PT
Have you hiked up to check it out yet? If not I'd start there. There's tons of rock in that hillside.
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Yea been there heaps, I would just like to know if there are any routes on there so I don't end up getting in trouble and having to leave half my rack behind. There does not seem to be any info anywhere about this wall. It must have some thing on it?
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 11:56am PT
Some one out there has to have at least a hand drawn topo of the wall some where around?
ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
Stop by Wilson's and talk to Tai. Bring doubles so you have to leave less gear if you need to bail. There's always natural stuff up there to rap off of if the route turns to sh!te.
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Us that that south american looking dude?
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
No, Tai is the REALLY tall guy who works at Wilsons. He should be able to provide you with as much info as there is on it...
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Is it in this photo?
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
Hard to tell but I am pretty sure it is, if what I have been looking at is infact the great escape wall, the amount of info out there on it is little to none.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
How great is the escape if you've got all the info?
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
I don't know man, I just want to climb a route on there that I can free climb, f*#k aid climbing.

I just want one route, you guys don't even no of one ascent of it?
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
That is not the great escape wall.

ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
If you need all this info you most likely aren't ready for it. Not everything has supertopo move by move and gear placement beta. Just go up there and get on it.
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
I don't give a sh#t about the info, I just want to learn more about the place, I have done sh#t like that heaps and it blows geting stuck half way up a route. Like is there even a route up the thing that is less than 5.12?
ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
Go find one. Is it that hard to comprehend that you have to resort to getting your panties in a bunch?
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
It's listed in the old guide.
Fro the Sierra Eastside book. Bartlett, Allen
Fro the Sierra Eastside book. Bartlett, Allen
Credit: Jerry Dodrill
Fro the Sierra Eastside book. Bartlett, Allen
Fro the Sierra Eastside book. Bartlett, Allen
Credit: Jerry Dodrill

Sorry it's sideways
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
Ok sweet thanks, one route, 5.10 A2. F*#king new it, aid climbing.

Ok thank you very much.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
You are f*#king welcome.
ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
Jerry,

Thanks for the pics. I did the North ridge a few weeks ago and don't have that guide. Is there a topo of it in that guide?

Edited to add: Don't worry about Hobo. Some have it some don't.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
Nope. No topo. Just this:

"North Ridge 5.9* This climb ascends the right skyline of the upper half of Wells Peak. The crux will be found in the steeper first few pitches. Above, many easier pitches lead up the classic knife-edge ridge. The best approach for this route is up Wells Canyon."

Not worried about Hobo. Its Sunday afternoon. If you are on the internet you are probably drunk... ;-)
ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Well you and I are on the internet. lol That ridge is pretty amazing. We started it on the left side of the north buttress at an obvious short offwidth. Then about 4 pitches later we finally hit the ridge. I'm just curious to find out where the FA party started.
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
Is wells canyon the canyon right above the trailhead? Is that your bottle of water and frizbe in the parking lot ruppell?
ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Nope. I'm not the frisbee type. We saw it last week and figured it was someone using it as a water dish for there dog. By the way if you saw that your parking at the wrong spot. lol
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Were the hell are you ment to park?
ec

climber
ca
Apr 21, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
LOL!

'Fly on a Windshield'

Brings back memories...only had 2 bolts in my possession at the time (lack of funds and resources).

 ec
ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
ec,

I just assumed that you guys where bad asses. lol
ec

climber
ca
Apr 21, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
I just assumed that you guys where bad asses. lol

Maybe more like dumbasses to believe DR, "...judgment, concentration, boldness - the ordeal by fire, take precedent, as they should, over mere hardware. "

 ec
ruppell

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
ec,

It's always been my belief that the fewer bolts placed the better. To run it out or not sometimes isn't the question. It's the answer.
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
Jerry that is a very nice shot of the Crest!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 21, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
climbing topic ++
Tony Puppo

climber
Bishop
Apr 21, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
Well you park in the parking lot obviously. Follow the obvious trail. Minimal required rack since most routes don't have many more bolts than ec's Fly on a Windshield as I recall.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 21, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
Never been up there, but every time I drive by - the pink band stands out to me as better rock(?)
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
There is no trail leading from this trailhead. There is enough stone up there to keep one happy for many life times.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Apr 22, 2013 - 03:29am PT
Thanks Tom Carter. It was a magical day.

Quote of the day: "
To run it out or not sometimes isn't the question. It's the answer
."
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 22, 2013 - 05:53am PT
Paging Em of Wyde...

There is an ungodly huge amount of rock up there, ten pitch towers, the works.
Google smokestack. Besides the guides Jerry scanned there is some stuff in the bishop guide, I think.
Have at it, a lifetimes worth of adventure!! If I ever get back to ca I'm headed there right after I get doug to take me around the buttermilk rock course again!
eKat

Mountain climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Apr 22, 2013 - 07:05am PT

Sort after?

Yeah. . . I was wondering the same thing. . .

?

rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Apr 22, 2013 - 07:07am PT
He's sort of after some info... :)

Some much sought after info.
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Apr 22, 2013 - 09:51am PT
Don't quote me on it, but I think The Great Escape goes free at 5.11 or 5.11-.
Hoboclimber

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2013 - 11:28am PT
So there is only one route up the whole wall?
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
Apr 22, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Talk to Tye to Wilson store. He would know!

There is also a book/3 ring binder at Wilson with all additional routes in the pine creek area. Check it out.
franky

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
*North Ridge of Wells Peak Beta Post*

Beta from Ian Nielson and Ben Ditto, who did the route recently.

P1: start in short right facing dihedral which turns into a right angling ramp, belay standing on a awesome knob.

P2: Continue up right angling ramp, transfer left to parallel ramp when possible. Continue up and right on this ramp to an awesome belay stance in an alcove below a scary looking (but small) flake.

P3: Climb up and around scary flake (bomber when we climbed the route) to large right leaning corner system. Follow cracks up the right side of the slab (dirty) to a belay stance at a thin crack that traverses left and up out a steep wall covered in bright green/yellow lichen.

P4: Traverse thin crack left and up onto a slab. Get funky gear behind a little flake and climb up and left to a good ledge (spicy). Belay at this ledge for your followers sake. Short pitch.

P5: simul-climb straight left under a large slab on the dike/ledge thing. Belay at a good stance around the left side of the buttress at a good stance where a crack leads up onto the slab. THIS DESCRIPTION DIFFERS FROM THE LINE ON THE TOPO.

P6: Climb up thin crack to an alcove below a roof.

P7: Climb over roof and up thru another steep section (bouldery moves thru this crux)

At this point it all blends together, the route wanders from left to right on the progressively narrowing ridge. At one point we found ourselves a little stumped up high and found passage around to the left side of the ridge. Good ledges up high if you have to bivy. I THINK we used a 70. Twin ropes might be a safe bet. Double rack. Lots of runners.

Credit: franky

Credit: franky
The obvious right leaning ramp system on the clean wall is the first three pitches.


T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Apr 1, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
Credit: T H
ruppell

climber
Apr 1, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
Nice bump biotch

I missed Frankys post from last June. We started it in a completely different spot. That route is rad. It's also not a ridge until about 400 feet up. It's more like a buttress. My partner and I started it on the pillar in the bottom left of the second photo. The pillars just left of a shadow line and if you look cosely there's an OW splitting the pillar. We started there and trended up and right to gain the ridge. I'll have to go back and check out Frankys way soon.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Apr 1, 2014 - 11:20pm PT
cool
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