7 or 8 or 9 days in Utah- Beta????


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Mountain climber
Apr 12, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
Can't go wrong in UT..you'll have a great time wherever!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
Apr 12, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
hey ryan - i wasn't trying to be dismissive about the pebbles or anything, just that with so short a holiday i think it wise to maximize your time. The last time i did exactly what you are doing we lost about half our days due to anything from helping out a friend get some sh#t done to getting sick to 2 days of rain ( at which point we gunned for maple canyon it being the only option within striking distance). All the lost time was to some degree poor planning and I swore I'd be smarter next time. Are you familiar with the lay of the land? I hope so cause that would help in the planning cause the towers are scattered all over the place often at the end of some quasi 4x4 road.

Still, i know for a fact that if you lay a good game plan you could bop from one zone to the next pretty easy with good options in each zone, and a rest day wouldn't mess things up too bad if needed. I'm jealous! have a blast and if you need a guide book and beta give me a call

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Wow, lots of great replies. Seems like there is more than a few cans of worms to crack open down there & a lot of really cool ideas here. Since i've had the valley on my mind for the past few months straight time none of this stuff has been on the radar ever, now that I'm looking into it more I am just blown away by how much there is there! So stoked!

Tower vision is setting in for sure, my only concern being access as 4WD/clearance will not be possible as my car has about 5" of clearance on a good day. It seems that this doesn't shut the door on tower climbing altogether but scales back the ease of access to a few that look very good such as Moses, Zeus, & sister superior. It seems a few good days could still be had though with castleton/fine jade, sixshooter, & maybe ancient art or something muddy, combined with some creek cragging & big bend bouldering in the evenings maybe could be awesome, Joes would be easy enough to hit for a day or two on the way in or out i think depending on weather-what about Mill Creek?? I can't find too much beta on the place but what I have seen tells me it would be great for a few days with what looks to be fantastic rock?? Is it close to Moab?

Bruce, I appreciate the advice based on your experience & it's definitely something we will consider when putting our plans together, btw u didn't seem dismissive about bouldering at all, you're just giving me an honest opinion of what ur stoked on down there & that is exactly what i asked for. I am going to give u a call soon & will most likely take you up on the guidebook offer & scrub some more detailed beta, thank you for that. It's pretty obvious that this trip will just be a sliver, I can already see that I'm going to have to come back & take the entire tab for the full experience. Still fun to eat a sliver & drink a bunch of beers:-)

Thanks to everyone else for the ideas as well, so much good info & im grateful for every reply. As for the live TR? Sorry Mike, where it says Squamish under my name to the left there isn't necessarily where I'm from, it is just the only place I post from! Your live TR was amazing but to be perfectly honest it is not my style. Climbing vacation time is scarce & precious to me as a slave to the 365 full time dime with a wife & a life -this trip is all for me & a chance to unplug from the everyday, this includes the taco for sure. I will happily share the story when I return.

Edit- haha thanks Captain ill be sure to wear my tinfoil hat!
Captain...or Skully

Apr 12, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Remember, it's Zeus, not "Zues". Those guys are gonna get hit by lightning. ;-)
Have a good trip, man.

Trad climber
Apr 12, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
I envy you.
You can walk into Sister Superior. Jah Man is a great climb. Thing about Moab, Castleton area, and Indian Creek is you move between them with a relatively short drive.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Apr 12, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
A good idea to be conservative with your ride, but I can get just about anywhere with 2WD and 5" of clearance,..

in a rental car. Its amazing where those things will go.

Trad climber
Apr 12, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
For the vehicularly challenged, I present: Lighthouse Tower, a most excellent adventure.
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