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Messages 61 - 66 of total 66 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Apr 13, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
Don't pretend to yourself it can't happen to you or for that matter you have never made a serious stupid error. Perhaps you were lucky and it didn't bite you that time. I have been lucky and I hate that fact.

You can project and pontificate all you want if it makes you feel better, but I am here to tell you that not once in 20 years have I ever, even once had anything even remotely like that happen / almost happen.

The person on the sharp end of my rope is not coming off belay until I am 100% sure, double checked by visual or extra inquiry that is what they intend. When it's me on the end, same drill. You STAY on belay until you have proof positive something else is requested. You don't leave the anchors under someone else's control until you have proof positive said control is ready.

You sound like someone who got caught drinking and driving trying to claim "everyone does it". No, they don't.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Apr 13, 2013 - 01:53pm PT


Unless you're done climbing for good...

don't count your chickens just yet...

paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Apr 13, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
My sincere condolences to the family and friends.

Tragic...

-Tom
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
May 15, 2013 - 03:31am PT
Scary. Especially if one of the children WAS the belayer. Both mine (12 and 14) belay me but they know that 'off belay' is the only time to take me off belay. That only happens when I'm clipped to the bolts/chains, etc. and they respond with 'belay off'.
Maybe my newness to the sport is showing, but how do you clean gear and expect to be lowered? If you're being lowered that happens right when you top out ('Got me?', 'Yup'). Was he getting lowered using the bolts/chains? If someone was cleaning gear I would also assume they were going to rappel, since you're not supposed to lower from the bolts/chains. But I would still wait for the cue to take them off belay. Seems like following standard protocol would have prevented this. I guess if there are walk off options that could happen, but even then the 'belay off' still applies.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
May 15, 2013 - 04:01am PT
If you're being lowered that happens right when you top out ('Got me?', 'Yup').

Incorrect.

It's entirely possible to be lowered after cleaning an anchor.

If someone was cleaning gear I would also assume they were going to rappel, since you're not supposed to lower from the bolts/chains. But I would still wait for the cue to take them off belay.

The above statement is inconsistent. Don't assume they're going to rappel. Assume that they require your belay until they tell you otherwise.

This is where your reasoning is flawed: you're not supposed to lower from chains [therefore, the climber is going to rappel].

Don't assume that the climber:

 agrees with you that they're "not supposed to lower from bolts/chains".
 is willing & able to follow that protocol.

IOW, don't assume you can stop doing your job when it comes to other people's safety: use explicit and complete communication.

However, you can assume whatever you want when it only affects your safety. Your family might be upset with your choice, but in the end it's your life to end.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
May 15, 2013 - 04:12am PT
I always do the coz grab, every time, even in the gym. I just can't bring myself to weight a rope without still being anchored or at least having a hand on the other side. When belaying, when the leader wants to clean the anchor and rap I leave the rope in the device with some slack until I absolutely know he / she is rapping instead of lowering.
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