warm, easy, yosemite multipitch this weekend?


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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Taking a new partner who is a 5.8ish climber. She has never done multi pitch.
Thinking Manure pile, munginella.
Any other ideas?

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Mar 7, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
The Grack

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Mar 7, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
The grack is probably still covered in ice.

Not multi pitch, but knob hill is a great moderate warm winter crag
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
would glacier point area get any sun? early or late?

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Mar 7, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Do you want to swing leads or have her follow you?

Manure is good
Parkline Slabs (low commitment for follower, but good multi-pitch) is warm
Reed's regular route with tunnel-through and up to summit on backside (but maybe scary traverse through tunnel if person isn't used to leading)

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 7, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Commitment, Selangenella link up. PERFECT day.

Or munginella/sellangenella. Or surprise. You can throw in Bishop's Terrace in there on the way back.

Have fun.


Mar 7, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
It's raining there right now, so a lot of stuff might still be seeping in a couple days. You want something with all day sun so it dries out, not GPA which I think just gets a tiny bit in the morning. Maybe go to Parkline Slab and hop on whatever looks dry? Plenty of easy short multipitch to be had there.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 7, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
I've done both the Center Route and Marginal on the Grack in early March before. The area gets morning sun only, so it can get rather frigid in the afternoon. Actually, After Six and Munginella are also facing southeasterly, and have right-facing open books that can get rather cold once the sun moves too far to the west. I remember freezing on the first pitch of After Six one December (of course, that was 42 years ago, so my memory may have issues, but I remember being sufficiently cold that I have not tried it in winter since).

As stated earlier, Knob Hill lacks multi-pitch climbing, but is a great area for times like now.

The local weather has been rather cold, but precipitation has been less than I hoped. Nonetheless, the latest storm could drop snow down to 3,500 feet, so I would probably concentrate on the North rim.

If you want lots of very easy, south-facing climbing with a few moderate moves here and there, you can always proceed to Lunch Ledge, although the rock quality (and the prominence of the objective) leaves something to be desired. There are now bolted rappel stations that work with one 60 meter rope.

I hope the weather cooperates, and you have a great time.


A pile of dirt.
Mar 7, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
The weather looks like crap for Saturday.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 7, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
Try skiing this weekend.

This afternoon in Paradise.
Credit: Yos.Conservancy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
Mar 7, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Rapping the nose makes for a fun afternoon for the beginning climber!

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 7, 2013 - 07:16pm PT

There is a impermeable rain halo surrounding the cliff.


Mar 7, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
It rained all day yesterday and all night.

It's been snowing all day today.

Going to the Grack this weekend would be stupid ......

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 7, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
We call that rainbow halo "The Mucci Effect" because no matter what you'll be climbing if the Mucci is around. :)

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Mar 7, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
I'm officially on the list of "stupid Americans" again :-)

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Mar 7, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
Its supposed to snow all the way through sat. ive seen 8" predicted for friday.

Bring snow shoes if you go Glacier Point Apron
Manure's going to be seeping
Wouldn't be surprised if open books'll be seeping too

Parkline Slabs is your best bet.
-If you can lead heady runout slab then stone quest is your baby.
-Haley Anna is a beautiful climb with multipitch climbs that start from top of that climb I believe, not sure of the grade of those.
-Otherwise there's plenty of good multipitch out there, check mountain project for a good selection of newer climbs not in the ride guide. Or PM Mucci for a wide breadth of knowledge about the area.

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Mar 7, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Golden Needles... then go cragging on all that new stuff to the far right at Pat N Jacks.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 7, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
Parkline Slab
 so much new there, Haley Anna is definitely worth it, and Soft In The Middle continuation for 2 pitches above (at least the first pitch of those two)

Pat 'n' Jack a definite possibility, but no really long routes there in your ratings range

Reed's Pinnacle
do Reed's Regular, gets a couple of pitches in at moderate grades, rap off the ledge then go over and do Ejesta

Knob Hill
 start on Chicken Pie, then Anti-Ego Crack, then the pitch up from the tree to the next ledge, I'd say finish up on Knob Hill Ropist but that's OW (even if easy, but it is fun) but probably not... there is Old Hippy Buttress, a bolt up 5.10a and short (don't know if there is a topo around, maybe Clint's site) that would be 4 relatively easy pitches...

You can then walk back down the gully and do Pot Belly or what ever else... should be warm and in the sun.

Cookie Sheet
 go and do everything you can... you'll bake if the sun is out and you can probably avoid any wet streaks from the current weather drama

Five Open Books
 it's worth a look at least, do any combination of climbs, better not to be on the ground if there's a crowd, tends to be unintentional gumby rock bombardment

Royal Arches Terrace Area
 maybe do Royal Arches Terrace, I think it should be dry
you could hit Hershey Highway if that isn't enough or you bail lower

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 7, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
another thought...
the river is loud this time of year, so make sure you go over the drill of how to communicate without hearing your partner...
before you leave the ground

Trad climber
northern CA
Mar 7, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
What about Positively 4th Street? Should be in the sun, plus it's short pitches (= easy to communicate) and you can rap after the 2nd pitch and still have plenty of time to do something longer at Manure Pile.

Taking a new partner who is a 5.8ish climber...

2nd pitch is 5.9 but sometimes the 5.7 start is the crux.
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