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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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Taking a new partner who is a 5.8ish climber. She has never done multi pitch.
Thinking Manure pile, munginella.
Any other ideas?
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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The Grack
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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The grack is probably still covered in ice.
Not multi pitch, but knob hill is a great moderate warm winter crag
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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would glacier point area get any sun? early or late?
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Do you want to swing leads or have her follow you?
Manure is good
Parkline Slabs (low commitment for follower, but good multi-pitch) is warm
Reed's regular route with tunnel-through and up to summit on backside (but maybe scary traverse through tunnel if person isn't used to leading)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Commitment, Selangenella link up. PERFECT day.
Or munginella/sellangenella. Or surprise. You can throw in Bishop's Terrace in there on the way back.
Have fun.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite
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It's raining there right now, so a lot of stuff might still be seeping in a couple days. You want something with all day sun so it dries out, not GPA which I think just gets a tiny bit in the morning. Maybe go to Parkline Slab and hop on whatever looks dry? Plenty of easy short multipitch to be had there.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I've done both the Center Route and Marginal on the Grack in early March before. The area gets morning sun only, so it can get rather frigid in the afternoon. Actually, After Six and Munginella are also facing southeasterly, and have right-facing open books that can get rather cold once the sun moves too far to the west. I remember freezing on the first pitch of After Six one December (of course, that was 42 years ago, so my memory may have issues, but I remember being sufficiently cold that I have not tried it in winter since).
As stated earlier, Knob Hill lacks multi-pitch climbing, but is a great area for times like now.
The local weather has been rather cold, but precipitation has been less than I hoped. Nonetheless, the latest storm could drop snow down to 3,500 feet, so I would probably concentrate on the North rim.
If you want lots of very easy, south-facing climbing with a few moderate moves here and there, you can always proceed to Lunch Ledge, although the rock quality (and the prominence of the objective) leaves something to be desired. There are now bolted rappel stations that work with one 60 meter rope.
I hope the weather cooperates, and you have a great time.
John
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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The weather looks like crap for Saturday.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Try skiing this weekend.
This afternoon in Paradise.
Click.
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fat-n-sassy
Social climber
San Francity, CA
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Rapping the nose makes for a fun afternoon for the beginning climber!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Parkline
There is a impermeable rain halo surrounding the cliff.
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WBraun
climber
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It rained all day yesterday and all night.
It's been snowing all day today.
Going to the Grack this weekend would be stupid ......
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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We call that rainbow halo "The Mucci Effect" because no matter what you'll be climbing if the Mucci is around. :)
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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I'm officially on the list of "stupid Americans" again :-)
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Its supposed to snow all the way through sat. ive seen 8" predicted for friday.
Bring snow shoes if you go Glacier Point Apron
Manure's going to be seeping
Wouldn't be surprised if open books'll be seeping too
Parkline Slabs is your best bet.
-If you can lead heady runout slab then stone quest is your baby.
-Haley Anna is a beautiful climb with multipitch climbs that start from top of that climb I believe, not sure of the grade of those.
-Otherwise there's plenty of good multipitch out there, check mountain project for a good selection of newer climbs not in the ride guide. Or PM Mucci for a wide breadth of knowledge about the area.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Golden Needles... then go cragging on all that new stuff to the far right at Pat N Jacks.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Parkline Slab
 so much new there, Haley Anna is definitely worth it, and Soft In The Middle continuation for 2 pitches above (at least the first pitch of those two)
Pat 'n' Jack a definite possibility, but no really long routes there in your ratings range
Reed's Pinnacle
do Reed's Regular, gets a couple of pitches in at moderate grades, rap off the ledge then go over and do Ejesta
Knob Hill
start on Chicken Pie, then Anti-Ego Crack, then the pitch up from the tree to the next ledge, I'd say finish up on Knob Hill Ropist but that's OW (even if easy, but it is fun) but probably not... there is Old Hippy Buttress, a bolt up 5.10a and short (don't know if there is a topo around, maybe Clint's site) that would be 4 relatively easy pitches...
You can then walk back down the gully and do Pot Belly or what ever else... should be warm and in the sun.
Cookie Sheet
go and do everything you can... you'll bake if the sun is out and you can probably avoid any wet streaks from the current weather drama
Five Open Books
it's worth a look at least, do any combination of climbs, better not to be on the ground if there's a crowd, tends to be unintentional gumby rock bombardment
Royal Arches Terrace Area
maybe do Royal Arches Terrace, I think it should be dry
you could hit Hershey Highway if that isn't enough or you bail lower
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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another thought...
the river is loud this time of year, so make sure you go over the drill of how to communicate without hearing your partner...
before you leave the ground
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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What about Positively 4th Street? Should be in the sun, plus it's short pitches (= easy to communicate) and you can rap after the 2nd pitch and still have plenty of time to do something longer at Manure Pile.
Taking a new partner who is a 5.8ish climber...
2nd pitch is 5.9 but sometimes the 5.7 start is the crux.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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Nice.....
I appreciate all the recs and feedback. Canceled the trip last night due to rain and lack of sleep. Woke up this morning rested, opened the curtains saw the sun streaming in and thought...WTF am I thinking? I remembered my old climbing mantra regarding iffy weather: If in doubt get out!
The web cam shots have the look of epic beauty.
yeeha
a:)
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sorry about the weather. One tidbit on the Cookie Sheet. I first climbed there on the President's Day weekend in 1973. The weather had been sunny for at least a week, but there were plenty of water streaks. The crux of our climb (otherwise 5.7) was probably crossing those streaks without getting our shoes wet.
John
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Hitting Parkline or Cookie Sheet next Saturday. There shouldn't be much snow on the ground at 4000 feet after a week of mid-60s, right?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Hitting Parkline or Cookie Sheet next Saturday. There shouldn't be much snow on the ground at 4000 feet after a week of mid-60s, right?
Correct. You can always use the webcam link on ST to get current conditions at the site of the old Happy Isles Bridge, Ahwahnee Meadow (with the Arches and Half Dome), Sentinel Dome looking toward Tenaya Canyon, El Cap, and Turtleback Dome looking west.
John
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
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Arrived fri PM driving through blizzard on 120 and sopping wet with giant puddles in Valley, but awoke to blue skies Sat. expected everything to be soaked.
Climbed Munginaella to Saleginella. Both almost bone dry and the Valley almost empty. Talk about fast drying!
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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Bump for anyone looking for the same thing. Climbed at Cookie Sheet yesterday and it was perfect. The whole slab was completely dry. Sun exposure ran from before 10am 'til about 3pm.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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The whole valley is under 8 feet of snow....kinda weird...I would wait a month or 2
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Oh yeah, silly me. I must have been having a flash back to last June. Yesterday was abysmal! And I imagine the first and last weekends in April will be bad too, so don't go then.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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In like a Lamb,Out like a Lion, BroMan. It happens.
You didn't die, anyway. That's a plus.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Mar 18, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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Manure was great. A couple teams steadily rolling through but not cluster frigged. Nutcracker looked sublime, as it should. Seemed similarly enjoyed.
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