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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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Oh, and rebolting aside, while out there, my oldest daughter called me very, very excited. She got into her dream college, U.C. Santa Barbara. I am SO DAMN PROUD of her!!!
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BFK
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mar 20, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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This is great work! I actually posted about how bad the mussy hooks were at the top of AC Devil Dog/ Table Manners a few months ago. Glad you guys took the iniative to make things safer.
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Mar 20, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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Nice work Brad!!
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hankw
Mountain climber
Camino, CA
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Mar 20, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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I went out today with Phil Bone, Hope Wolf and Dave Harden
That sounds like old times.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Mar 20, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Colour I can provide colour.
Another option is to find a rock similar to colours of the abandoned area of the hole; Find an area where you can chip off a piece and smash it into smaller pieces several times close to a powder then add/mix to the topping when you put in the grey grout. Take a brush or steel to give it same texture.
Let me know when you will out again and I will bring the tints so you will have in your bag to correct. What kind of grout are you using, will bring faster setting in tube, best would be a white grout and then add the tint to match perfect background.
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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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Mar 20, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
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Great job! Thanks.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Hey, Hank, how are you? I had no idea you were on this forum. Yep, "we" are some names from the past alright. I hope you're doing well.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 20, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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Great work!
Very scary how bad those bolts are. I have seen tons of mank, but have not dealt with 3/8ths very often.
Death bolts be gone!
Don't blow out the elbows...
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hankw
Mountain climber
Camino, CA
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Mar 20, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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Hi Brad,
I actually just signed up a couple of days ago. Have been doing good, kinda getting back into a little climbing but its been a while. How have you been? Have you completed your quest to do all the climbs in the Valley guide? Say hi to all the Sonora gang for me.
Dingus, Hehe...No we haven't done that for a looong time. Im having a hard time putting a face to Dingus???. Do I know you by another name?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
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Yes Hank, I'm still nuts. Will say hi to the gang too.
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hankw
Mountain climber
Camino, CA
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Mar 20, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
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Brad, I was digging thru some old slides and I found this one of you. Sorry for the thread drift :)
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Holy crap, I remember that day. You and me and Harden. That's Taurus at Sugarloaf, late 1990s.
Who's the leader with the short shorts and nice legs? :) :)
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willm
Social climber
Oakland
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Mar 20, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
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Wow! Awesome. Thanks guys. I noticed a desperate need for new anchors last time I was there nearly a year ago. Woah, I gotta get back there soon!
Edit: Forgot to say that's Fracture not Tauraus ;)
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Mar 21, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
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Been giving it some thought on why the 3/8" wedge bolts are breaking so easily. You probably can't tell by looking at the old bolts, but one critical factor in the strength of a wedge bolt is how the threads for
the nut are placed on the stud.
"Rolled" threads don't actually cut into the metal stock. If you looked at this type of thread under a magnifier it would look like somebody "added" the actual thread material on top of the stud.
"Cut" threads are made by actually cutting away part of the stud.
Unfortunately, "cut" threads create a weakness in the strength of the stud, especially in shear and torque strength.
My guess is the poor bolts you are encountering at the Grotto probably used 'cut' threads which is why they break off so easily when you try to unscrew them.
Personally, I only buy wedge bolts with "rolled" threads.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Mar 21, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Or they are just cheap hardware store bolts. The Uriostes used 3/8" stud bolts in Red Rocks that were grade 2 steel or something...break right off with only a few whacks (versus the normal 3/8" stud bolts which you would have to bend back and forth several times before they snapped). Still way the heck better than 1/4" stud bolts of course!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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Chim-Chim: As soon as I saw your post I realized that you're right: that's The Fracture. That may have been my last trip to Sugarloaf; we did both The Fracture and Taurus that day.
Bruce and Greg: Yes, most of those are cheap and scored hardware store bolts. Keep in mind though that the two Rawl 5-piece bolts that made up the first anchor we replaced broke fairly easily too (just by trying to unscrew them with a socket wrench).
All of the bolts we have replaced are also 20 years old, and during that time they've been in a relatively damp environment (for California anyway). Most of them have also likely held many hangs and falls too. And our removal efforts don't exactly replicate the stresses that hangs and falls generate.
Still, it is fairly disconcerting how little force it's taking to break them.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Mar 22, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Many thanks! Congratulations too! & what a great photo Hank posted!
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Hey Hank!! Craig here!! I've been wondering(I tried googleing with no success) where you are and if you are still climbing...looks like you are getting back as well!!
I took a 13yr break and am enjoying getting back into it. Of course, the Valley, Meadows and EastSide memories are still strong in mmy head!!
I don't know dingus either..
It was good to see 'hankw' here...
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Brad, are you hanging out replacing bolts in a Bod harness?
I guess it would encourage efficiency.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
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Brad, are you hanging out replacing bolts in a Bod harness?
I guess it would encourage efficiency.
Now that's just cruel (the comment, not the harness). Maybe my perspective is off (I've spent many, many hours hanging in even older model harnesses on walls), but I love the Bod harness and find it quite comfortable. Or maybe the "redistribution" of body mass that's occurred due to age and the contentment of married life makes it just seem comfortable?
Anyway, yes that's a Bod harness.
Dean and I are going out to do more rebolting tomorrow.
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