Rebolting in The Grotto (at Table Mountain, near Jamestown)

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 19, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
Keep up the great work! One of the things I do when patching is to put the patch material in the hole then get a small rock of the same material as the wall and put it into the patch material and smash it. The rock usually disintegrates into the hole and patch material and ends up blending in much better than just the patch material by itself.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
Bruce, I do that too with Pinnacles rock. This Table Mountain rock is harder to match in color and in consistency than is Pinns rock.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
Oh, and rebolting aside, while out there, my oldest daughter called me very, very excited. She got into her dream college, U.C. Santa Barbara. I am SO DAMN PROUD of her!!!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Mar 19, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
Wow congrats to you both!

DMT
BFK

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 20, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
This is great work! I actually posted about how bad the mussy hooks were at the top of AC Devil Dog/ Table Manners a few months ago. Glad you guys took the iniative to make things safer.
Cragar

Trad climber
MSLA - MT
Mar 20, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Nice work Brad!!

hankw

Mountain climber
Camino, CA
Mar 20, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
I went out today with Phil Bone, Hope Wolf and Dave Harden

That sounds like old times.
lostinshanghai

Social climber
someplace
Mar 20, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Colour I can provide colour.

Another option is to find a rock similar to colours of the abandoned area of the hole; Find an area where you can chip off a piece and smash it into smaller pieces several times close to a powder then add/mix to the topping when you put in the grey grout. Take a brush or steel to give it same texture.

Let me know when you will out again and I will bring the tints so you will have in your bag to correct. What kind of grout are you using, will bring faster setting in tube, best would be a white grout and then add the tint to match perfect background.
pell

Trad climber
Sunnyvale
Mar 20, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
Great job! Thanks.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Hey, Hank, how are you? I had no idea you were on this forum. Yep, "we" are some names from the past alright. I hope you're doing well.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 20, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
Great work!

Very scary how bad those bolts are. I have seen tons of mank, but have not dealt with 3/8ths very often.

Death bolts be gone!

Don't blow out the elbows...
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Mar 20, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
hank you still making your boy be your belay slave?

DMT
hankw

Mountain climber
Camino, CA
Mar 20, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Hi Brad,
I actually just signed up a couple of days ago. Have been doing good, kinda getting back into a little climbing but its been a while. How have you been? Have you completed your quest to do all the climbs in the Valley guide? Say hi to all the Sonora gang for me.

Dingus, Hehe...No we haven't done that for a looong time. Im having a hard time putting a face to Dingus???. Do I know you by another name?
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
Yes Hank, I'm still nuts. Will say hi to the gang too.

hankw

Mountain climber
Camino, CA
Mar 20, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
Credit: hankw

Brad, I was digging thru some old slides and I found this one of you. Sorry for the thread drift :)
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Holy crap, I remember that day. You and me and Harden. That's Taurus at Sugarloaf, late 1990s.

Who's the leader with the short shorts and nice legs? :) :)
willm

Social climber
Oakland
Mar 20, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
Wow! Awesome. Thanks guys. I noticed a desperate need for new anchors last time I was there nearly a year ago. Woah, I gotta get back there soon!

Edit: Forgot to say that's Fracture not Tauraus ;)
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 20, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
Mt. I think that route at sugarloaf is the Fracture. Thanks for the hard work at Table,Dan
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 21, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
Been giving it some thought on why the 3/8" wedge bolts are breaking so easily. You probably can't tell by looking at the old bolts, but one critical factor in the strength of a wedge bolt is how the threads for
the nut are placed on the stud.

"Rolled" threads don't actually cut into the metal stock. If you looked at this type of thread under a magnifier it would look like somebody "added" the actual thread material on top of the stud.

"Cut" threads are made by actually cutting away part of the stud.

Unfortunately, "cut" threads create a weakness in the strength of the stud, especially in shear and torque strength.

My guess is the poor bolts you are encountering at the Grotto probably used 'cut' threads which is why they break off so easily when you try to unscrew them.

Personally, I only buy wedge bolts with "rolled" threads.
Greg Barnes

climber
Mar 21, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
Or they are just cheap hardware store bolts. The Uriostes used 3/8" stud bolts in Red Rocks that were grade 2 steel or something...break right off with only a few whacks (versus the normal 3/8" stud bolts which you would have to bend back and forth several times before they snapped). Still way the heck better than 1/4" stud bolts of course!
Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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