Chim-Chim: As soon as I saw your post I realized that you're right: that's The Fracture. That may have been my last trip to Sugarloaf; we did both The Fracture and Taurus that day.
Bruce and Greg: Yes, most of those are cheap and scored hardware store bolts. Keep in mind though that the two Rawl 5-piece bolts that made up the first anchor we replaced broke fairly easily too (just by trying to unscrew them with a socket wrench).
All of the bolts we have replaced are also 20 years old, and during that time they've been in a relatively damp environment (for California anyway). Most of them have also likely held many hangs and falls too. And our removal efforts don't exactly replicate the stresses that hangs and falls generate.
Still, it is fairly disconcerting how little force it's taking to break them.
Brad, are you hanging out replacing bolts in a Bod harness?
I guess it would encourage efficiency.
Now that's just cruel (the comment, not the harness). Maybe my perspective is off (I've spent many, many hours hanging in even older model harnesses on walls), but I love the Bod harness and find it quite comfortable. Or maybe the "redistribution" of body mass that's occurred due to age and the contentment of married life makes it just seem comfortable?
Anyway, yes that's a Bod harness.
Dean and I are going out to do more rebolting tomorrow.
Dean Fleming, Joel Primrose, Phil Bone and I did more work today. We had the place to ourselves, which is good because we were making a heckuva racket.
We finished rebolting Color Coded Quickdraws (the 5.10b on the right side of The Ort Wall). One of its four lead bolts was replaced about five years ago or so, and we've now replaced the other three with 1/2" stainless steel bolts. We also replaced the anchor on this route with the same, namely 1/2" stainless steel bolts with Mussy hooks. All the old holes are carefully patched and colored.
I then fought for almost an hour to get out the right anchor bolt at the top of the 5.8 route Bandito on The Grotto Columns. The thing would come out a little and bend a lot; the outside part broke off, but I was able to bend it over and keep it coming out. After succeeding, I replaced it with a new 1/2" stainless in the same hole. I attached a new Mussy hook (so, at present, this anchor has one new/replacement bolt and one of the old ones - they are equalized).
Again, all of the replacement gear was courtesy of the A.S.C.A. Anyone who climbs out there and likes the look of this new hardware ought to write that fine organization a check!!