Rebolting in The Grotto (at Table Mountain, near Jamestown)

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Messages 41 - 48 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Chim-Chim: As soon as I saw your post I realized that you're right: that's The Fracture. That may have been my last trip to Sugarloaf; we did both The Fracture and Taurus that day.

Bruce and Greg: Yes, most of those are cheap and scored hardware store bolts. Keep in mind though that the two Rawl 5-piece bolts that made up the first anchor we replaced broke fairly easily too (just by trying to unscrew them with a socket wrench).

All of the bolts we have replaced are also 20 years old, and during that time they've been in a relatively damp environment (for California anyway). Most of them have also likely held many hangs and falls too. And our removal efforts don't exactly replicate the stresses that hangs and falls generate.

Still, it is fairly disconcerting how little force it's taking to break them.
susu

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Mar 21, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
Many thanks! Congratulations too! & what a great photo Hank posted!
Cragar

Trad climber
MSLA - MT
Apr 8, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Hey Hank!! Craig here!! I've been wondering(I tried googleing with no success) where you are and if you are still climbing...looks like you are getting back as well!!

I took a 13yr break and am enjoying getting back into it. Of course, the Valley, Meadows and EastSide memories are still strong in mmy head!!

I don't know dingus either..

It was good to see 'hankw' here...
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
Brad, are you hanging out replacing bolts in a Bod harness?

I guess it would encourage efficiency.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Brad, are you hanging out replacing bolts in a Bod harness?

I guess it would encourage efficiency.

Now that's just cruel (the comment, not the harness). Maybe my perspective is off (I've spent many, many hours hanging in even older model harnesses on walls), but I love the Bod harness and find it quite comfortable. Or maybe the "redistribution" of body mass that's occurred due to age and the contentment of married life makes it just seem comfortable?

Anyway, yes that's a Bod harness.

Dean and I are going out to do more rebolting tomorrow.
hankw

Mountain climber
Camino, CA
Apr 8, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Hey Craig,
Sent you a PM. Cool to see you here!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Another paradox of aging: when you're young and skinny, you can't afford the creature comforts. When you're older, you can afford them but don't need them.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
Dean Fleming, Joel Primrose, Phil Bone and I did more work today. We had the place to ourselves, which is good because we were making a heckuva racket.

We finished rebolting Color Coded Quickdraws (the 5.10b on the right side of The Ort Wall). One of its four lead bolts was replaced about five years ago or so, and we've now replaced the other three with 1/2" stainless steel bolts. We also replaced the anchor on this route with the same, namely 1/2" stainless steel bolts with Mussy hooks. All the old holes are carefully patched and colored.

I then fought for almost an hour to get out the right anchor bolt at the top of the 5.8 route Bandito on The Grotto Columns. The thing would come out a little and bend a lot; the outside part broke off, but I was able to bend it over and keep it coming out. After succeeding, I replaced it with a new 1/2" stainless in the same hole. I attached a new Mussy hook (so, at present, this anchor has one new/replacement bolt and one of the old ones - they are equalized).

Again, all of the replacement gear was courtesy of the A.S.C.A. Anyone who climbs out there and likes the look of this new hardware ought to write that fine organization a check!!
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