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hankw
Mountain climber
Camino, CA
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Hey Craig,
Sent you a PM. Cool to see you here!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Another paradox of aging: when you're young and skinny, you can't afford the creature comforts. When you're older, you can afford them but don't need them.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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Dean Fleming, Joel Primrose, Phil Bone and I did more work today. We had the place to ourselves, which is good because we were making a heckuva racket.
We finished rebolting Color Coded Quickdraws (the 5.10b on the right side of The Ort Wall). One of its four lead bolts was replaced about five years ago or so, and we've now replaced the other three with 1/2" stainless steel bolts. We also replaced the anchor on this route with the same, namely 1/2" stainless steel bolts with Mussy hooks. All the old holes are carefully patched and colored.
I then fought for almost an hour to get out the right anchor bolt at the top of the 5.8 route Bandito on The Grotto Columns. The thing would come out a little and bend a lot; the outside part broke off, but I was able to bend it over and keep it coming out. After succeeding, I replaced it with a new 1/2" stainless in the same hole. I attached a new Mussy hook (so, at present, this anchor has one new/replacement bolt and one of the old ones - they are equalized).
Again, all of the replacement gear was courtesy of the A.S.C.A. Anyone who climbs out there and likes the look of this new hardware ought to write that fine organization a check!!
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