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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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There's a great trip report of two guys climbing the shield and getting hit by lightning via a rain-waterfall at the top
http://trevorswezey.blogspot.com/2009/06/my-first-el-cap-route.html
When I started climbing again I noticed that bad weather was on the way, just like it had been every day between 11 and 4. The only difference is that every other day it only got windy and a little rainy. This time mother nature was not going to be so kind. Within a few minutes I was completely engulfed in a watercourse high up on El Cap. It actually felt like I was in a waterfall. I was just standing there with no where to go when all of a sudden I saw a bright light and got instantaneously shocked to hell. At first I couldn't believe it. I got shocked by lightning. It wasn't a direct hit. The lightning hit the top of El Cap and traveled down the water to me. I stood there in the waterfall tingling all over for around ten minutes waiting for it to finally calm down. When it did I called down to Charlie and asked if he was OK. He said that he was, but that he had been shocked by lightning. I quickly fixed the line now that I could move and rappeled down to Charlie where he told me that the blast threw him on his back and he blacked out. We just stood there tingling for around an hour in disbelief as to what had just happened. At this point we had to make a decision. Do we stay here and climb another day without food or do we go for the top and hope that the weather doesn't come back. Within an hour most of the big clouds over El Cap had dissipated and we decided to go for it and make it to the top. We quickly ascended the fixed line and started up the rest of the climb. Charlie led the first pitch after the storm and took a 30 foot fall, as if being struck by lighting wasn't enough. Once he finished up the pitch. We climbed one more aid pitch and then two 5.7 pitches and finally topped at 12PM after 6 full days on the wall.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Crank - I remember that day in June of '88 in Boulder. I was in the garage working on my motorcycle in South Boulder thinking what a crazy storm and hoping nobody was out on
anything real exposed. The next day I heard about the guys on the Edge - major bummer...
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Summit of Mount Rainier in July:
You can see what the weather was like. We traversed the peak Success Cleaver > Disappointment Cleaver in 3 days.
We were just off the summit crater rim on the descent, when all of a sudden I was stung by a swarm of bees across my head and back. I ran wildly and started swatting the bees away.... and then realized there are no bees on the summit of Mt. Rainier.
OMG - IT'S ELECTRICITY!
Our glasses, ice axes and pack frames start humming loudly and shocking us.
"Quick! Ditch the gear! Take cover!"
We dropped everything, moved away from the gear and lay in the snow a rope length apart.
BAM! A lightning bolt engulfed us. The thunder occurred at the same time. We didn't actually see a lightning bolt, it was so close that all we experienced was blinding light and a defeaning blast.
I sat up to see if my brother was okay. We gave each a "thumbs up," meaning, "I'm still alive, how about you?"
BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM!
A full-on lighting storm was upon us. I thought to myself, "So this is what it's like to be at the receiving end of a B-52 bombing raid...." After every blast we sat up to give each other a "thumbs up."
BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM!
Then it started to snow so heavily that we couldn't see each other 100 feet away. We were shocked over and over from the lighting, and I was getting too scared to sit up anymore to look for my brother. In about 20 minutes I was covered with 6 inches of snow and the lighting continued.
BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM! BAM!
Eventually the storm receded and we continued our descent.
= = = = = = = = = = =
On another note, I discovered on a High Sierra ski trip that metal ski poles make for a wonderful lighting warning device. I was carrying ski poles on my pack, and they would start to hum.
When the poles started to hum, I would take cover until the lightning struck, and then I would get on with my climb.
(:
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Cool stories, on climbs I want to do someday too. (Shield and Rainier)
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Was on a Boy Scout backpacking trip to San Gorgonio. We got caught above treeline by a storm, while we were all wearing old school frame packs. I remember some discussion about ditching the packs, but in the end, we ended up running down the trail with the packs on and lightning coming down all around. Was fairly terrifying.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Mar 13, 2013 - 03:18am PT
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Just reading the Queen of Spades FA and came across a lightning story in it.
"I started cleaning in a frenzy, terrified by the thunder and rain, until a bolt of lightning striking fifty feet away from me knocked me off my jumars with the ground current and deafened me with a heartstopping crack boom!"
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=417097&tn=40
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 26, 2017 - 02:48am PT
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hey there, say, T.hocking... say, as to this quote of yours:
Mar 7, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
yosemiteblog.com/2005/08/20/shattered-air-remembered-a-...
Shattered Air
Here is a good book/read about a group of hikers that got struck on top of Half Dome in 85 written by Redding local Bob Madgic. Published in 2007.
Some of you guys might know some of the yosar/rangers involved in the rescue/recovery.
Think I still have a copy layin around the house somewhere.
Closest I ever came was a bolt struck the ground about 20 ft. away from me
while I was heading south on I-5 near Red Bluff in my truck. Glad I was in the truck!
Tad
THIS BOOK just showed up, as i was looking for another book, at amazon...
i was not sure if it was a good or true account, so i thought i'd check it
out, here... and-- i see you HAVE shared about it...
thank you...
man oh man, :O
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Sep 26, 2017 - 10:01am PT
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I was buzzed in the bugaboos three times in a row after climb the Northeast ridge of Bugaboo spire and descending the Kain route. Was so close to us where ice axes were ringing and our hair was standing up. We hunkered down on a Ledge about seven hundred feet off the glacier right near the gendarme and proceeded to get three different shocks through the splash effect of the current going through the rock. I was in between a boulder and the wall in somewhat of a channel in lightening drill position. the third blast actually knocked me off my ass my helmet into the rock and back on my tail on the ground. Clenched up and whited out, was scary as s***. After what felt like an eternity for probably 20 minutes we heard this rumbling getting louder and louder all of cringing expecting a bolt to come down and obliterate us. Realized it was rockfall and was beneath us, thankfully cause it was huge.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 26, 2017 - 10:27am PT
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Lightning has caused me to repent my sins, if not rue.
Sadly I must report that repentance is transitory.
Happily I can report that over the years I've seen fit
to lessen my exposure to repentance. I think I've
also lessened the need to repent, but an unbiased
jury might find that circumstantial.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Sep 26, 2017 - 11:01am PT
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Sep 26, 2017 - 11:40am PT
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Vegas last week
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 27, 2017 - 11:05am PT
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hey there say... just found this the other day...
does anyone in the bay area, remember this time?
i was flying in to the airport then... :O
it looked wild, :O not sure-- if we had to wait? before landing,
or not... was so long agao, can't remember... :)
*they said in this 2001 article, that last huge show, had been 1999...
has there been a 'lightning update' show... (thought someone might
have mentioned 2015??
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Sep 27, 2017 - 01:52pm PT
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Once when I was climbing in the Sangre de Cristo Mtns of southern Colorado I had just come off Crestone Peak when the approaching thunder storm broke and lightning was hitting the peak a thousand feet above me. The problem was that I was on the wrong side of the ridge from my campsite. I endeavored to run up the ridge and glissade down the other side between lightning strikes. Just as I reached the top of the ridge a bolt of lightning flashed across my field of vision and struck the north face of Crestone Peak. Oddly, there was no clap of thunder, but instead a note as if from a Moog synthesizer occurred inside my head that started in mid-range for the human voice and then rose in pitch until it went out of range of human hearing frequency. I have no idea what this means, but I felt no charge nor apparently did I hear any other manifestation of the lightning bolt charge. Well, I jumped into the nearest snow-filled couloir and glissaded as fast as I could down the mountain. Made it safely back to my tent many thousands of feet lower too! To this day I have no idea what that sound was or why I heard no crash of thunder.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Sep 27, 2017 - 05:29pm PT
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Hey Nick, That place is a lightning rod.
I had just come down off of the Ellingwood arete with Jim Nigro and a climbing partner of his named Mickey something, on July 4 1976 (Bicentennial). One of those late storms hit and we dove into our tents (with Jon Ake, who missed the climb because of a turned ankle), dozens of bolts hitting the Needle and Peak every minute. Within 20 minutes there were waterfalls of hail coming off of that face everywhere. I was so glad that we got down quickly, there were several parties up there that didn't come down for 3 or 4 hours, white-faced, epic stories abounding.
Moss
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