workout for climbing the nose


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McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 22, 2013 - 12:00am PT
I've seen the workout from hell, and it looks like hell.

I went back to the OP and read it again. There's really no reason to make it like hell. The people that responded to this thread seem pretty mellow, and look, they climbed El Cap....even the scrawny weak guy. Even when I did pull-ups I was pretty mellow about it. You just do stuff untill you are too tired to do more stuff. You rest and let your muscles recover and get back to normal, and then you do more stuff until you are too tired to do more stuff. No matter what it might seem like hell. Most people that have done it for awhile, know how to make working out fun and know just how much they need. The main thing is just to do the workout and then the energy takes off. You have to think of the things that will make you strong - and then do them. If you don't get them out of your head, that's were El Cap will stay too! Even if you get all of it out, El Cap will probably still stay in your head. So, workout to your hearts content without fear that you will ever HAVE TO climb El Cap. The really nice thing about El Cap is that it makes everything else seem small ans doable.

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Feb 22, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
I'd say it depends a lot on the style you want to climb it in. I didn't see much info on your fitness, experience and preferred style.

If you're doing it multi-day, aside from having basic fitness, the most important thing is to have the system down. Inefficiencies can be really exhausting: unnecessary wrestling with the pig, futzing in your aiders, carrying too much, over-gripping, thrashing your hands, wasted movements, poor jugging technique, poor rope/anchor management.... And the emotional stress of that much extended exposure can really add up. With the system down, an otherwise mediocre climber off the couch will be perfectly comfortable; otoh, it takes a lot of fitness to compensate for poor technique. If this is your first wall, and you have your doubts, I'd recommend some shorter walls first.

If you're doing it in a day:
1)Refine your system: block climbing with short fixing saves a ton of time, work out your transitions, study the route, know exactly what to bring, practice your french free technique on harder stuff (there's more to it than simply "pulling on gear"), know how to keep moving...
2)Lot of climbing. Extended gym sessions are good, with the goal of climbing every 5.11 (plus every 5.12- is better) route there.

FWIW, I probably have the speed record for the slowest Nose in a day, 23h45m.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 22, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
3+ nights and u'll b hauling a junk show

Reminds me of the homeless people who have more than one shopping cart full of stuff. The weight is mostly water and the idea is to get to the top before it runs out.

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Apr 7, 2014 - 08:54am PT
god it aint no secret anymore,
i hate when my truths become public.

so Big Mike and i are having a go at this beast next month.
i offered the idea to mike a while back when
he was beginning his recovery march.
i thought that he could use a goal to focus upon,
and, at the time, i was cranking the best
that i ever had....

now a year has passed and my periphery life
to climbing has taken on a hearty appetite
for my time, and, well, i haven't got
the chance to prepare like i might if i were
in charge of the stars.

so mike is flying from canada to meet up with me,
he's dropped his money, time and faith upon a whim
of the local space cadet who spits pretty words bubbles;

hah, it's in the bag. i'm calling it now.
though i haven't had hand to stone like
prescribed in chris' road to the nose,
every single day i live well beyond my comfort zone.
either cranking and rigging and swinging in hazards trees,
or pushing the midnight oil at my cad station
crushing unreal deadlines by dawn; raising two
fiery little mountainettes; staying on the wagon;

geez. the nose will be a vacation.
pulling on gear, beautiful handjams,
bitchin bivies, gorgeous views, good company,
the wind; the sun; the birds;

and also it will be more of the same:
fatigue; fear; doubt; thirst; worry; storm threats;
tangles; dropped gear; public poops.

all of it is good, and mike
i assure you, publically,
that i will be the the cinderella,
the fairy godmother,
wiked step mother,
the sister bitches,
and the rat pulling the carriage,

and i'll shoulder whatever weight needed
to assist in our team success.

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Apr 7, 2014 - 10:04am PT
Stoked for you Norwegian.

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 7, 2014 - 10:24am PT
Great attitude Weegy. Knowing what lay ahead, and having the fortitude to put the pedal to the medal!
Big Mike

Trad climber
Apr 8, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
god it aint no secret anymore,
i hate when my truths become public.

Lol. I probably didn't help with this. Lol. The stoke level has just been to high to contain.

and i'll shoulder whatever weight needed
to assist in our team success.

I've been working hard to make sure that I can contribute as much as possible to our team. I wanna be a partner not just someone hitching a ride. I'm stoked you haven't climbed it before too because I wanted an equal for this challenge as far as route finding goes.

I've read Chris's Big wall guide and practiced the systems, over and over again to try and get things fluent. I've led a bunch of easy c1 gri gri solo pitches lately and i'm stoked to actually have a belay and not have to deal with all that bull$hit! :) I've practiced following traversing terrain and lower-outs, hauling the pig and far end hauling theory.

I've been looking for a wall partner locally but haven't had any solid commitments yet but i'm hoping to get at least one in before I come down.

Most of all i'm looking forward to free climbing a lot of the easier 5.10 stuff and i've been training for that too. The weather has been co-operating this week and i managed to get 22 pitches in.

A little rain has been good too and it's been forcing me to get into the gym and do my routine more often to the delight of both my personal trainer, and my back which seems to really enjoy the support from my new stronger abs. LOL

I can't wait. It's gonna be a blast!!

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 8, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
Here's hoping for a casual ascent for big mike and weege.

I would strongly advise you two to get on a smaller wall together or at least try one to dial in your system together with lighter bags and no pre spray to live up too.

Then after a rest day or two, you'll be that much more confident starting up the big stone.

Trad climber
Apr 8, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
I would approach your goal with training from the best guide/educator(s) you can find. One who possesses the experience and communication skills to share and develop with accuracy the learning targets that will help you succeed.
Combine that with a climbing trainer who can create the best program for your climbing, overall fitness and head game.
You want a really good plan that incorporates all this relevant information into a durable, measurable progression.
I have watched really good sport/gym climbers adapt quickly to Cathedral Ledge and Yosemite because they had an awesome foundation of movement education.
I have watched Mark Synnott educate folks to an amazing level of proficiency in aid climbing in one week.
If you take your motivation and combine it with positive people who can teach you well you maximize what you will accomplish, your effectiveness and your enjoyment.
I would hit up Mark Synnott and Justin Sjong.
Good luck and have fun.
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