Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 19, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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I've never done ten pullups in a row in my life. I hope I don't get in trouble for having climbed the Nose a couple of years ago.
Your biggest asset will be familiarity and confidence in the systems you choose to use, and a general level of good fitness. Ie. Just get outside, or to the gym and ride, run, row, climb, whatever. just get active, shed any pounds you know to be unnecessary, and eat well.
Have fun getting ready for your big adventure!
K
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 21, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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I've seen the workout from hell, and it looks like hell.
I went back to the OP and read it again. There's really no reason to make it like hell. The people that responded to this thread seem pretty mellow, and look, they climbed El Cap....even the scrawny weak guy. Even when I did pull-ups I was pretty mellow about it. You just do stuff untill you are too tired to do more stuff. You rest and let your muscles recover and get back to normal, and then you do more stuff until you are too tired to do more stuff. No matter what it might seem like hell. Most people that have done it for awhile, know how to make working out fun and know just how much they need. The main thing is just to do the workout and then the energy takes off. You have to think of the things that will make you strong - and then do them. If you don't get them out of your head, that's were El Cap will stay too! Even if you get all of it out, El Cap will probably still stay in your head. So, workout to your hearts content without fear that you will ever HAVE TO climb El Cap. The really nice thing about El Cap is that it makes everything else seem small ans doable.
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AlanDoak
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 22, 2013 - 11:50am PT
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I'd say it depends a lot on the style you want to climb it in. I didn't see much info on your fitness, experience and preferred style.
If you're doing it multi-day, aside from having basic fitness, the most important thing is to have the system down. Inefficiencies can be really exhausting: unnecessary wrestling with the pig, futzing in your aiders, carrying too much, over-gripping, thrashing your hands, wasted movements, poor jugging technique, poor rope/anchor management.... And the emotional stress of that much extended exposure can really add up. With the system down, an otherwise mediocre climber off the couch will be perfectly comfortable; otoh, it takes a lot of fitness to compensate for poor technique. If this is your first wall, and you have your doubts, I'd recommend some shorter walls first.
If you're doing it in a day:
1)Refine your system: block climbing with short fixing saves a ton of time, work out your transitions, study the route, know exactly what to bring, practice your french free technique on harder stuff (there's more to it than simply "pulling on gear"), know how to keep moving...
2)Lot of climbing. Extended gym sessions are good, with the goal of climbing every 5.11 (plus every 5.12- is better) route there.
FWIW, I probably have the speed record for the slowest Nose in a day, 23h45m.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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3+ nights and u'll b hauling a junk show
Reminds me of the homeless people who have more than one shopping cart full of stuff. The weight is mostly water and the idea is to get to the top before it runs out.
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