Photos from the 11/99 FA of A Fine Piece in Patagonia

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BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Feb 16, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
If that face is of the same quality, that would be wild.

I have always thought that the Nose is one of the best routes on the planet, but I haven't gotten around like Donini and Crouch have.

I was a little nobody. A subman. I still got to do a lot of climbing. Now I am permanently hobbled.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 16, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
Greg: Thanks for sharing that fine story and beautiful photos. Looks beautiful.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Are you asking which way the west face of Piergorgio faces? :-)

It's about a thousand meters tall, so about the same size as the Nose. Comparable looking route, too, up a buttress in the middle of the main face.

Route information is at Pataclimb.com, in the Piergorgio/Pollone massif section

I don't see a Breemer, et al route in there, but that isn't to say one hasn't been done. I'm not up to date like I used to be. Not at all.

Base, five months before the FA of A Fine Piece, I was in on the first winter ascent of Cerro Torre's west face in 1999 (the Ferrari Route) with three Swiss guys -- Thomi Ulrich, David Fasel, and Stephan Siegrist. Amazing trip, and very difficult both physically and emotionally. But really incredible to be out there on the ice cap in winter, stupendously alone. It was like being in another world.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
I'm super excited that Joel Kauffman just commented on my A Fine Piece post, calling it "alpine granite perfection," and adding the news that the route has received at least one other ascent this season. Wow. I really do think that route deserves to evolve into a classic.

If I'm understanding Joel's comment correctly, Blake Herrington and Scott Bennett climbed a variation start. (I'm still not clear if it had been repeated prior to this season.)

They apparently recovered a Lost Arrow Jim and I left on a descent anchor, and I've got my fingers crossed that it'll survive the Kauffman season and get returned to me so I can give it a place of honor on the shelf that divides my kitchen and living room.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
Team, I gave the A Fine Piece post a massive update late last night, doubling the number of included photos and fleshing out the stories.

Worth checking out again if you've got a few minutes.

Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 10:20am PT
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2016 - 08:21pm PT
Bump for A Fine Piece. It's that time of year. It needs action
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jan 2, 2016 - 05:06am PT
greg, thanks for the update on a fine piece. it looks great and i hope to view it this season as i do the icecap traverse. great stories of climbing with the legend donini. hoping to get up the rut normal on guillamet this season with the wife, oldest brother, and brock wagstaff. still livin the dream. cheers, steve
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Jan 2, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
Breeder's Choice in two liter plastic Coke bottles ... that's WAY hard core.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jan 2, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
First time I've seen this. It takes balls to do Patagonia walls.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 2, 2016 - 06:13pm PT
Way cool Greg. The stuff of dreams.
Messages 41 - 51 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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