Photos from the 11/99 FA of A Fine Piece in Patagonia

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BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Hey. I clicked on it....

So has the main face been climbed? How high is it and which way does it face?

I was reading last night on the techniques that ships and sailboats often use to cross the Drake Passage between S America and the Antarctic Peninsula. Most of the year it is just a train wreck of low pressure after low pressure, although sometimes around December or January, they are spaced out enough that they use the technique of "chasing the lows."

That is where you tuck in on the backside of a low and haul ass across the Passage before the next one hits.

On another note, I saw some pics of Hayden Kennedy on the Ferrari Route on the back side of Cerro Torre. This would be the year before he chopped the Compressor Route. That face looked like a fairy-land of snow mushrooms and rock.

IIRC, they couldn't get over the summitt mushroom and bailed from there.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Feb 16, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Piergiorgio...Breemer et al did a route on that?
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Feb 16, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
If that face is of the same quality, that would be wild.

I have always thought that the Nose is one of the best routes on the planet, but I haven't gotten around like Donini and Crouch have.

I was a little nobody. A subman. I still got to do a lot of climbing. Now I am permanently hobbled.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 16, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
Greg: Thanks for sharing that fine story and beautiful photos. Looks beautiful.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Are you asking which way the west face of Piergorgio faces? :-)

It's about a thousand meters tall, so about the same size as the Nose. Comparable looking route, too, up a buttress in the middle of the main face.

Route information is at Pataclimb.com, in the Piergorgio/Pollone massif section

I don't see a Breemer, et al route in there, but that isn't to say one hasn't been done. I'm not up to date like I used to be. Not at all.

Base, five months before the FA of A Fine Piece, I was in on the first winter ascent of Cerro Torre's west face in 1999 (the Ferrari Route) with three Swiss guys -- Thomi Ulrich, David Fasel, and Stephan Siegrist. Amazing trip, and very difficult both physically and emotionally. But really incredible to be out there on the ice cap in winter, stupendously alone. It was like being in another world.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
I'm super excited that Joel Kauffman just commented on my A Fine Piece post, calling it "alpine granite perfection," and adding the news that the route has received at least one other ascent this season. Wow. I really do think that route deserves to evolve into a classic.

If I'm understanding Joel's comment correctly, Blake Herrington and Scott Bennett climbed a variation start. (I'm still not clear if it had been repeated prior to this season.)

They apparently recovered a Lost Arrow Jim and I left on a descent anchor, and I've got my fingers crossed that it'll survive the Kauffman season and get returned to me so I can give it a place of honor on the shelf that divides my kitchen and living room.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
Team, I gave the A Fine Piece post a massive update late last night, doubling the number of included photos and fleshing out the stories.

Worth checking out again if you've got a few minutes.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 6, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
Shyts hard core!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 10:20am PT
Torrecita Tito Carrasco on the left; Pollone's west pillar in the midd...
Torrecita Tito Carrasco on the left; Pollone's west pillar in the middle.

I don't think the rightmost formation has yet been climbed...
Credit: Gregory Crouch
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