| Messages 1 - 111 of total 111 in this topic |
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
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Big Mike, I know you mean well but I'm afraid this will lead to Jim's joining
Locker's Big-Headed Club and that's not a good thing.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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yeah, but what's he done on grit?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
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Maybe it was deleted for a reason: watch your back!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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Jim seems pretty down to earth. It's hard to see him getting big headed.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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If Jim has a problem with it, I will delete if he makes his wishes known.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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No it's cool, I think it's gonnah fly.
We dig you Jim.
"We Donini Stinking Badges!"
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Donini>Honnold
nuff said
fanboi mode off
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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Even if you are an unrepentant troll, at times.
See you in The City!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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He's a good climber and a good leader.
Also a good Troll.
He does slide shows from time to time. They are not to be missed.
I like him and want to hear more from him.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
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Jim is pretty much all around good. Might need to sharpen up the musical interests a bit, he's been stuck on Tiny Tim.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
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I was literally in diapers when Donini sent the Egger. Cool in my book.
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orangesporanges
Social climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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I was literally in diapers when Donini sent the Egger
I'd probably be smart to wear a diaper myself, if I went for the Egger
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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Donini is still living the dream and I can appreciate that.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
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Everyone is living in a dream
But all hail the man .... Donini
Hoorah .....
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
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I meet Jim in Cochise last year - one nice & good man, and that is more important than his amazing accomplishments. & amazing they are.
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moosedrool
Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
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Appreciation? Is really THAT good?
 Missing photo ID#287232
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eKat
Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
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I tell ya. . . when he'd come to camp, we'd all hang on his every word. . . either crowded around the table on rescue or kickin' up dirt in the parking lot. . . it always felt like somebody FOREIGN came to play.
Bridwell and I sat and cried at one of his Patagonia slideshows. He did it with a lady (gee, I wanna say wife - but it may have been a GF) - she did a very cultured, non-climbing voice and, of course, his was so mind bendingly WORLDLY. . . I may not have understood a single word.
Here's to donini. . . keepin' it real!
oxoxo
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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In my opinion, Donini still has one of the funnier posts on ST.
The topic was "How did you get staretd climbing?"
Donini wrote that he was reading a magazine in the dentist's office and there was an article about Chris Sharma that made climbing look like fun - so he decided to give it a try.
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Hankster
Social climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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YAY JIM!!!! He's like a sophisticated Fred Beckey.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
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Word on the street is Donini's tears cure cancer. Too bad he had never cried.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
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DONINI
There once was a lad named Donini
Who some thought a bit of a meany
Cantankerous at best
He slandered the rest ?
While frontpointing a slab of Linguine
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
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Wouldn't that be nice..........
He's certainly cooler than that karate dude.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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Werner if we all were living in a dream we'd all be rich and have the ability to fly.
Stupid foreigner American.....
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
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Everyone is already rich (they just don't know it yet) and has the ability to fly .....
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
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Being new to this campfire and recently returned to climbing after a 30 hiatus,
Mr. Donini has been critical with me in a motivational way,
Welcome back, use your old gear, bemoan being 55, stay out of shape, climb 5.5's or........
your choice.
and supportive of my return.
edit: T Hocking, love your attitude. I'll be in Yosemite the entire month of May....come down and tie in.
Thanks for the advice Jim!
It's guys like him that make me feel young again.
Tad
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MH2
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
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First I heard of him it was that he was a Generator Crack aficionado. Turned out he was more than that.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
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LL LL
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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Think I first heard of, met, saw Jim Donini at the Nose Reunion in the Valley about 4 years ago. Then other places like OR and Skip and Erik's wedding and the reception IN the Merced (?) river.
What a kind, generous person. So even if I don't make it to the AAC 50th Everest in February I will cheer you with a toast of scotch, Sir. Smiles, lynne
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
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Jim's one of a kind!... thank God.....;)
TY
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
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Donini has got,
THE RIGHT STUFF!!!
Missing photo ID#287249
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
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WOW!
DONINI APPRECIATION!
This seems to be mostly in favor of the old-lad, and Peter gets points for the most imaginative photos.
Is Donini the "MOST INTERESTING CLIMBER IN THE WORLD?"
Time will tell, when he is still leading, and being fun in his 90's.
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east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Donini don't surf........heh heh heh
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
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^^
U sure bout that?
I heard he did the first base jump offa wave
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nah000
Mountain climber
canuckistan
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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+1 for someone to type up a donini story or two.
and for those out of the alpinism loop, here's a short version of his c.v. ripped from the internet:
1976 First Ascent, Torre Egger, Parque Nacionale de los Glaciares, Argentina
1978 North Ridge of Latok 1, Karakorum Himalaya. Attempted first ascent, remains unclimbed.
1979 Mt.Siguniang, Sichuan Province, China
1983 Autana Tepui, Venezuela filmed for American Sportsman TV
1985 First Ascent (First Alaska Grade 6 climb in history) Diamond Arete, Mt.Hunter
1988 First Ascent, Grupo La Paz, Cordillera Riesco, Fiordo de los Montagnes, Chile
1989 First Ascent The Cobra Pillar. Mt.Barille, Alaska Range
1995 First Ascent “Old Smuggler’s Route” Cerro Poincenot, Parque Nacionale de los Glaciares, Argentina
1996 First Ascent Bourbon Bottle Route, Mt. Bradley, Alaska
1998 Mt Epperly, Antarctica
1999 First Ascent, Torrecita Tito Carrasco, Cerro Pollone, Parque Nacionale de los Glaciares, Argentina
2002 Cerro Steffen, Lago O’Higgins, Patagonia
2006 Diamond Couloir, Mt Kenya, ascent of ice route drastically increased in difficulty by changed by climate change
2008 First ascent Avenali Tower, Valle del Rio Avellano , Aisen
2008 First ascents, Cerro Condor, Cerro Sombrero, Cordon las Parvas, Aysen
cheers to donini: it's always nice to see climbing nobility willing to muck about in a little supertopo mud now and again.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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I have a FEW Donini pics also.
:)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 30, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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I got to meet him and some of his friends in Leavenworth. The kind of friends a man has says a lot about his character. Good folks all the way around. Cheers to you, Jim Donini.
I have a bottle of Italian wine with the Donini name on it. I wonder if it is any good? Who wants to try it with me?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
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it's always nice to see climbing nobility willing to muck about in a little supertopo
That's what's so impressive about him.
Donini is huge and at the same time he's so at ease with common folks.
He's a great man ....
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Jan 30, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
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I want to have the realistic goal of NIAD when I'm 70!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
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What a bunch of hero-worshiping wankers.
Oh, sure, if some climber had actually done all the climbs attributed to Donini, then yeah, that climber would be worthy of worship. But you idiots don't speak Italian, do you? In Italian, a singular word generally ends in "o" and to make it plural you change the ending to "i"
Think about it. No one Donino did all that crazy sh#t. It was a whole bunch of Donini. Helping each other out, covering for each other's failures, giving each other a toprope on the hard pitches... And then claiming they were just one climber.
I'm calling bullsh#t.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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Never heard of him, this Jim.
Heard he was a weenie, what's a Donini?
Some call him Slim, some call him Jim, Slim Jim.
Just don't call him teeny beanie Donini.
Ahhh truck you Guido....BWA HA HA hahahahahaaaa!!!
On a serious note, as a young alpinist in Oregon in the mid-late 70's, campfire tales made him out to be eleven feet tall and blessed with super-human powers.
Then as I grew into an aging rock climber in Alaska at the dawn of a new century, the tales were just as good as before. He was the same age as before...it was only I who had gotten older.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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Nini-Me
Missing photo ID#263979
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coz
Gym climber
Belmont
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
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Werner,
What's the story about Overhanging Over-pass, I remember you telling me the story about Donini, sending the thing BITD, all run out on hex's.
Didn't we get some of his gear off of Power Point, or the Pratt/Kelsey?
Didn't he do Catch-U, I remember you having me lead that thing and the ledge falling off on the way down.
You use to go on and on about Donini, stories please.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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One of my best friends. Real friends are hard to come by.
Things I appreciate about Jim.
He loves to climb.
He loves people. Sure he can come off gruff and all business sometimes but deep down, he's a social creature.
He loves to climb.
He tells great stories.
He loves to climb.
Can cook a mean salmon.
He loves to climb.
Generous beyond belief.
He loves to climb.
Arne
Also,he just likes to get out and climb.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 30, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
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Missing photo ID#287292
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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That Nini me pic is classic!
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Conner
Mountain climber
Eden, Utah
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Jan 30, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
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Just a couple of weeks ago, Jim was instrumental in getting Jeff Lowe down to the Ouray Ice Festival where Jeff got to participate in the presentation of the first annual Jeff Lowe Service Award being given to Bill Whitt for his service to the Ice Park. Jim and his friends worked with the board to create the award in Jeff's honor. You may have seen the thread - it was awesome!
Once we arrived in Ouray, Jim and Angela treated us to a fab dinner at the Bon Ton with dear friends and if all that was not enough, they next came to our condo and cooked one of his famous salmon dinner for 10 of our friends...
And then, with the help of Jay Smith and his wife Angela - created an amazing video for Jeff of folks being interviewed and talking story and so much more - all for his ol' Latok climbing partner Jeff.
Always smiling and making time to come and see us - we appreciate Jim (and Angela) more than words can say. Climbing breeds some unique and wonderful folk - so lucky to be friends with same and on the receiving end of their generosity and good will.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Jan 31, 2013 - 02:16am PT
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Jim is the man, period. Got to meet him for the first time at Facelift a couple years ago, and he promptly asked me if I wanted to climb some time.
Naturally I said hell yes, but told him I am no where near his level and I'd probably bore him silly. His response was that he was just fine with low level climbing, and that being as I climb with Cosmic that was good enough for him.
Hell of a guy, in and out of the mountains. Jim's been an inspiration to myself and many others.
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nopantsben
climber
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Jan 31, 2013 - 04:18am PT
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i asked on ST where to climb in March in the US. I didn't say how well I climb or anything like that..
Jim offered to climb with me in Indian Creek and the Black. Just like that. I said yes.
He picked me up the airport, cooked amazing dinners the whole way, drove around, giving me a great tour of desert climbing i'll not forget. Another highlight was climbing the evolution traverse together. It's such a pleasure to hang out and climb with Jim.
He's extremely generous and open.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 31, 2013 - 05:33am PT
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Jim's something else. Still crankin' hard. Smarter than most,
and a genuine guy.
We need more of his type!
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 31, 2013 - 07:53am PT
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JD needs to come visit the woodfords area-- maybe have some bear sausage over the camp fire- hang out with some gun nutz like myself- get a little "western culture" so to speak.. NO denying hes a climbing machine,, and quite possible and android at that!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:15am PT
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Thanks everyone for the kind words, kinder than i deserve.
Some things that i appreciate:
Being a member of the ST family....sometimes a grump here and there, like any family, but generally caring and respectful of each other.
Belonging to the worldwide climbing community. I have travelled to over 50 countries, some of them at odds with us politically ( Cuba, China, Iran) and many of them in the third world. Politics, culture, standard of living and religion may vary immensly, but get climbers sitting around a campfire and they are all members of the same tribe.
The travel opportunities that climbing has afforded me. We Americans often get caught up in American exceptionalism and isolationism.. The more i travel, the more i appreciate other cultures and worldviews. We are a great country but still a part of a worldwide community that deserves our respect. We have much to give the rest of the world and also much to learn.
The healthy lifestyle that climbing has given me. I wonder where i would be (physically) a few months shy of 70 had i not gotten into climbing.
The opportunity to meet new people and mentor younger climbers. I love climbing with new people....knowing that, as climbers, we immediately have much in common. I also enjoy helping younger climbers just as i was helped many years ago.
The lifelong, close relationships that have come to me thru climbing. Too many to enumerate but here's an example. George Lowe and i first climbed together in 1976 at Arch Rock. We next spent three months together in 1978 on the Latok 1 expedition. There followed a couple of decades where we only saw each other at the odd social event. Five years ago we started climbing together again; IC, the Sierra's, the Incredible Hulk, the Evolution Traverse etc. Hopefully, this May we will team up as a rope team (nearly 139 yrs. in combined age) to do the NIAD.
So in closing, i am most appreciative that climbing has given me the opportunity to still have high adventure with both new and old friends in both familiar and new places in these the autumn of my years.
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stich
Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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I seem to recall there was a commemorative Jim Donini .44 magnum handgun up for grabs a while back. Anyone know where I could get one? You know, for home defense against mice.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:36am PT
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Had the pleasure of meeting Jim in 2004.
He said I could stay at his place in Ouray anytime.
Really nice guy
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:42am PT
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50 countries!
Holy crap! I had no idea that a Geritol endorsement could be so lucrative!
Wait, maybe he's right, there must be multiple Donini.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Jan 31, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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Jim was the wise, experienced climber when I met him in Yosemite around 1972. I was 17, he was an old man of 29 years. The first time I climbed with him was with Chappy, and we did the FA of Fingerlickin'. Had a great time and I remember that day with a smile - lots of laughs, a hard, clean crack, and the feeling we were on top of the world - even if our Everest was a scrappy little PO infested crag in the Lower Merced Canyon.
Donini has more seniority, experience, balls and wit than just about anyone else who posts here, we're all lucky to have him around. All that with a strong dose of humility. Plus, he understands that republicans are wrong on everything. What's not to like?
Still the wise, experienced climber, only now more than ever.
Salutations, JD, and have fun on your Nose in a day climb!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
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Couldn't resist chiming in on this thread with a link to a webpage I just posted with six photos of Jim climbing in Patagonia.
I really ought to get around to figuring out how to digitize my old slides. I've got dozens of great shots of Jim climbing in Patagonia and Alaska.
To Jim's CV above, I'd add the Shaken, Not Stirred couloir on the South Face of the Mooses Tooth in the Ruth Gorge. I'd think that route stands with The Old Smuggler's Route on the north face of Aguja Poincenot and A Fine Piece on the West Pillar of Cerro Pollone as the best three routes we did together. I think all three have been repeated a time or two, and I think Paul Roderick's flying has turned Shaken, Not Stirred into a bit of a modern classic, which I find pretty cool. That was one hell of a fun climb.
But don't fall for the bullshit Jim let get printed in the Supertopo AK guidebook about how Shaken, Not Stirred got discovered... the real story is totally different. ;-)
PS: If I remember my Donini lore correctly, I think he might have made the first one-bivy ascent of the Nose, too. Back in the Pleistocene.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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But don't fall for the bullshit Jim let get printed in the AK guidebook about how Shaken, Not Stirred got discovered... the real story is totally different. ;-)
Awwwright, out with it Pilgrim!
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coz
Gym climber
Belmont
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Jan 31, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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Man,
I was hoping to hear about all his climbs, I never heard about.
Guys, like Jack Tackle, Michael Kennedy, Greg Collins, Jim Donini, Steve Gerberding never seemed to get the credit or attention they deserved.
I was too absorbed in rock climbing and after a successful trip to Patagonia forgot all about alpine climbing.
Seems like this thread could serve as a way to bring Jim's great climbs in the far reaches of the world, to the masses. I love to hear them.
But if I have to endure one more ass suave, I love you Jim post, I may throw up my top Ramen.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 31, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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C0z said
But if I have to endure one more ass suave, I may throw up my top Ramen.
Dude, I'm not sure what an ass suave is but how many can you endure before you puke? Can one build up a tolerance to ass suaves?
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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I ain't suaving no one's ass . . .
Jim what's the story with this: (from Jim's Wikipedia page, how many Taco heads have their own Wikipedia page??!!!)
Notable climbs
1976 Torre Egger - First Ascent - with John Bragg, and Jay Wilson from the United States, by climbing first to the col between the Egger and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.[4]
1978 North Ridge on Latok I, Karakorum Range, Pakistan. Attempt with Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe (climber) (all USA).[5]
1991 Cobra Pillar on the east face of Mount Barrille, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA (VI 5.10+ A3 WI5? 2300m) FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 5–10, 1991.[6]
1991 Viper Ridge, south spur of southeast ridge to ridge, Mount Foraker, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 11–17, 1991.[7]
2000 Lightning Spur, south face Thunder Mountain, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with John Bragg (USA).[8]
Seems that 1991 was a productive year.
What happened on June 10th and 11th?
Did you catch a flight?
Sounds like the ultimate Alaska season . . .
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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Jim's been climbing,
a LONG, long, long long, long time!!!!
Missing photo ID#203711
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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Ass could mean
*Butt
*Donkey
Suave generally means
*Smooth
So I think he's saying Donini's got a smooth butt or something.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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I'm confused. Why would C0z have to endure Jim's smooth ass? He said he wasn't an alpinest and I'm sure Jim is always the big spoon anyway.
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coz
Gym climber
Belmont
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Jan 31, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
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OK,
I'm trying to get a legit story,
Overhanging Overpass?
Tell the tale Jim.
Ass Suave=Ass kissser
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jan 31, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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Jim is the only guy I know who can climb better than most guys half his age.
He will most likely hike faster in the mountains than just about anyone I know, as well.
Jim is the only guy I ever climbed with, who faked a leader fall, 20 feet above his last pro, on a 5.10 crack climb, just to scare the sh#t out of me.
Watch out for him, when he's driving on dirt roads--frightening.
I appreciate him for many fond memories; recent and BITD.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Jan 31, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 31, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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Jim is the only guy I ever climbed with, who faked a leader fall, 20 feet above his last pro, on a 5.10 crack climb, just to scare the sh#t out of me.
Priceless, but who is Jim Donini? Is he a rad climber like Ondra?
Help me out here.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jan 31, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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I think he's Fred Becky's grandfather
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Be it Alaska, an unclimbed Patagonian wall, the Snaz, or Eldo, I've bitched out El Senor Jim dozens of times for not bothering to put in reasonable quantities of protection, even when he has been carrying it... every time knowing he was doing it just to piss me off.
A corollary to this scene:
Me: "Watch me, I'm f*#king gripped."
Jim: "You're doing fine."
Me: gripped, cruxing, scared, above gear. I look down. Jim has both hands focusing his SLR camera (pre-digital days, these), and none on the rope. "WTF, Jim?"
Jim: (click... click...) "You're fine. You haven't fallen yet."
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 31, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
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To a good guy, one hell of a climber and a good fisherman.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 31, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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I'm with Coz...story time please.
Hey Donini- you did some climbing at Granite Mtn back in the day.
Old fakkas who climb as much and as hard as Jim Donini deserve respect and appreciation.
Hats off to you Donini.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 31, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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Respect!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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Great to see you in SLC, Jim!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A classic Crouch shot of Sergeant Rock on the Cobra Pillar in the Ruth.
Back when Jim lived in Seattle and I was spending a lot of time climbing indoors, I would occasionally watch him line up a partner after a bit of observation. If the climber in question was moving well, then Jim would move in and sign him up for basic training.
I remember one of his new recruits coming over to me after enlisting to ask earnestly,"How's that guy climb?" My reply was "5.11 until you drop!" LOL
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jim once talked a guy into spending a season in Patagonia with him when the guy HAD NEVER HAD CRAMPONS ON HIS FEET BEFORE.
He did really well, too.
(Thanks for the scan, which I've just poached and added to the gallery of Jim photos on my website.)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The photo of Jim is my favorite portrait of him, so thanks and you're welcome.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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LOVE the tea cozy. You dawgs seen Alpinist #41 ? I had Fun With Donini. It's on one of the pages in there. :-) !!!!!!!!
Hahahaha fer Jim !!!
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toadgas
Social climber
los angeles
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-
legendary dude who left fun-in-the-sun rock for cold alpine misery
but we need his dogged determination still against the snake-handling, speaking-in-tongues, fascist bomb-cellar-dwellers in those tard-centric threads
-
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Tami, I had to look at that tea cozy on three expeditions that year.
Frackin' nightmare.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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is it just me, or does JD look like hed fit in well on a Monty Python skit!??
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Strangely, while ferreting around in the dungeons of my computer for something else, I found two long-forgotten shots of Jim and added 'em to my pictures of Donini post, including this one:
I think it might be from the trip to the Kichatna Spires when we flew in on one half day of good weather, sat in the tent for 21 days and flew out on the next half day of good weather.
Read a boxfull of books and drank a boxfull of booze on that trip, so it wasn't a total waste, but we never tied a knot in anger.
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coz
Gym climber
Belmont
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Wow, no small amount of ass kissing, but not one story,
Perhaps, all the lurkers can't's spells soo gooddes, or Jim never did anything worthy of mention.
My God really not one story?
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Holy shite, ferreting around the computer, I just found an entire article I wrote about that trip to the Kichatnas with Jim that I can't even remember writing, let alone publishing.
This is the most frightening thing I've experienced in years.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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The above pic explains why...you might think it was the Tequila, but note the strange shades and color of the shirt.
Donini works for the MIB
They told us the stories but ...
You really think you just sat in the tent for 21 Days?....
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Wow, no small amount of ass kissing, but not one story,
Perhaps, all the lurkers can't's spells soo gooddes, or Jim never did anything worthy of mention.
My God really not one story?
let me tell you a story of an arrogant ass...he showed his arrogance regularly on a website, open to all. thought he was the sh#t.....and he was.....the stinky kind. the kind you wanted to bury deep in the forest coz it stank so effin bad. only the arrogant ass never did get it.
but thats ok.
one should never let arrogant asses (even though they stink) rain on your parade.
is that the story your lookin 4?
if you are anything in real life like you are on this web site then you are truly an as#@&%e.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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It's naught tequila, it's takillya, I know it!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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When I saw this thing it just tore me up!
(Probably because it's everything he isn't?)
Hahahahaha
Photo credit:PopLockeAndDropIt
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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So good! Straight cut and paste!
Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Feb 1, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
Holy shite, ferreting around the computer, I just found an entire article I wrote about that trip to the Kichatnas with Jim that I can't even remember writing, let alone publishing.
This is the most frightening thing I've experienced in years.
Lets hear it!! Please!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Mike, it's actually presentable... I'm going to have to take some time to figure out what to do with it...
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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^^^^^GUFFAW^^^^^
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Be it known I appreciate the Coloradan Jin Dornini.
He really tries.
At least he tries.
They say he's successful, but that's entirely personal. Who am we to judge? It's obvious he lacks true peerage. [Lord, Jim. I forgot Conrad.]
I know the answer, so that's just rhetorical.
"Does he delete interesting threads?" No, of course not. The Guiding on Everest Ethicality Question still looms.
"Are there interesting stories about him?" Not so's you'd know it! And stories of sitting in a tent waiting out a storm are useless with no pictures, too, remember. Thanks for that one, anyhow.
We must measure his head for science, too. The results would be interesting. We could send it to the Colorado Fish & Game. He's an animal, after all.
A man of true worth, well-deserving of this simple, twisted and threaded "Attaboy!"
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Greg- Are you going to scan and post the Kichatnas article?
If not, what is the source and I will.
Cheers
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Steve, as far as I can recall, it never got published... I've done a little searching and can't find a clip, nor can I find an internet reference to it. I think I wrote it as a draft for NG Adventure but it didn't get picked up... I'm gonna see if I can tweak it and place it somewhere else... or else ePublish it as a kindle single or B&N Snap. It'd make a good Ascent or Alpinist piece, too.
It's pretty good on Jim.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I look forward to taking it in whenever you get around to putting the story in play.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Wow Coz, I thought Werner's word was good enough for you.
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coz
Gym climber
Belmont
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It is, I just like hearing climbing stories, I know the guys bad ass, but what's wrong with some stories.
So many climbs from all over the world and not one story.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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We just ain't got the right folks posting up I guess, or he's holdin' dirt on all of 'em!
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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appreciated
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Once twas a climber Donini
Mighty proud of his horse-size weenie
No sign of Maestri high on the Torre
Egger's bones far below so gory
Donini found all this odd
Pronounced Cesare a fraud
Italian returned with Compressor
Removing all doubt what he was about
Maestri rapscallion
Donini the stallion
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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He is awesome.
Enough said.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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TWP! Re your Donini literary post.
Once twas a climber Donini
Mighty proud of his horse-size weenie
No sign of Maestri high on the Torre
Egger's bones far below so gory
Donini found all this odd
Pronounced Cesare a fraud
Italian returned with Compressor
Removing all doubt what he was about
Maestri rapscallion
Donini the stallion
Sigh.
You may not be a great poet,
and all on ST now know it.
However you climb well,
and don't emit bad smell!
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Fritz: I accept your literary verdict.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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A poster upthread stated that Jim changed from a "fun in the sun" rock climber to an alpinist. But Jim's roots are more in alpinism than rock climbing. If I remember correctly when I first became aware of Jim it was as a result of some solo escapades in the Canadian Rockies soon after he got out of the Service,(Correct me if I'm wrong here, Jim). In the summer of 1970 Jim had a good season in the mountains, doing amongst others, such then well-respected Teton alpine climbs as the Black Ice Couloir (there was ice in it back then) and the West Face of the Grand. That season in the Tetons Jim and his partner, Ross Johnson, a fellow veteran, kept their distance from the "hippie" element in and around the notorious Campsite 38 at Jenny Lake. However when Ross became injured or ill (I forget which) Jim had to settle for doing the West Face with one of the denizens of 38---i.e., me.During that climb Jim complained about what he felt was the inadequacy of his rock climbing ability---though in fact he was very competent. He told me that after the summer he would be moving to California to "learn how to rock climb". When I next climbed with him 2 years later in The Valley, he had achieved that goal and then some....
Attached (hopefully--we've never tried this before) is a (blurry) photo of a young (well, younger) Donini on the West Face in August, 1970
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Feb 25, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
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Alan! I love your story.
Aside from having had the pleasure of much climbing with Jim, I also knew Ross Johnson well -- although he was a very successful businessman with a lovely house and business interests all over the world, he sort of moved in with Jim and I when we were sharing a house in Boulder in the mid-1990s. Ross couch surfed with us for more than a year after his wife, Sandy, died of brain cancer.
The amazing detail of the above is that Sandy was Jim's first wife. Ross married her after she and Jim broke up, an all-in-the-family detail that didn't damage any of the involved relationships. Ross and Jim stayed great friends through all of it.
Sadly, we lost Ross a few years later, too. He was a marvelous guy, really intelligent and entertaining. I loved having him around.
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Feb 25, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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I met him at Splitter Camp a bunch of years ago. Here's how the initial introduction conversation went:
Donini gave me a warm welcome: “Hey I’m Jim. Welcome to Splitter Camp! You seem really fit and look like an uber climber. What grade are you leading?”
I sheepishly answered “5.7”.
“How long have you been climbing?”
“Twelve years.”
He looked at me dumbfounded and replied “You should be able to climb better than that”.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 25, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
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When J-Do met Maestri for a momentous debate at the World Sushi Summit:
I forget that Jim was representing me at the Summit. Maestri didn't stand a chance.
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Dr. F.
Big Wall climber
SoCal
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Feb 25, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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I never met him
But he is on the right side of everything good
And is an inspiration
Please keep posting, please express what you want to say
Thanks
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