"It is difficult to realize the true Way just through sword-fencing. Know the smallest things and the biggest things, the shallowest things and the deepest things."
— Miyamoto Musashi, The Book of Five Rings
Badass.....I was listening to a buddy talking about getting worked on a route and needing 2 or 3 more #2's to add to the 3 or 4 he already had on his rack as he'd used them and all his number 3 camalots as well and was struggling, and it make me think of another friend explain a while back about belaying Donini on the same route. He raises his eyebrows and says while shaking his head in awe something like: "I belayed Donini on that, I was real concerned as he climbs about half way up before he puts in his first piece. Then he maybe has 1 more piece for the rest of the pitch. "
These guys are all much younger than Jim....but who isn't I suppose.
I was in the "Creek" with Donini last fall. After a bus load of folks got done top roping the crap out of "The Incredible Hand Crack", Donini cruised it placing only 2 cams. That's right I said two! Another time on the same route, I was just getting started leading and I hear Donini whispering something to my belayer and some snickering. He had filled my chalk bag full of rocks. I had been so focused on getting ready to lead, I hadn't noticed.