THE POWER OF THE CHOSS COMPELS YOU...

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:18pm PT


Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

yes,, yes it does...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Ommmmmmmmmmmm



Credit: survival
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
No it does not!

Choss!
Choss!
Credit: crunch
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Crunch lies! LOL

:)


That's ok, say three Hail Sandstone Spires, and all will be well.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
To climb (free solo) in your Adidas

3 Finger Jack
3 Finger Jack
Credit: ydpl8s
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
below the lip is an aver hanging wall about 50 to 60' of knobbery..
below the lip is an aver hanging wall about 50 to 60' of knobbery..
Credit: Ron Anderson
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
Anyone else climbed on the Rotwand? Steve that looks like Grand Junction, but then again there are lots of huge sandpiles out there.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Rotwand looks thuggish
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
It's the crumbly part of Eldorado Canyon in Colorado.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
In the beginning, God created Choss. And verily, he saw that it was good.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson
mhay

climber
Reno, NV
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
ydpl8s, That photo takes me back to my Central Oregon days; TFJ, West ridge of Mt Washington, Jeff Park Glacier on Mt Jefferson. Gotta say I don't miss the volcanoes.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Yea, Mhay, when you're young and foolish you'll try just about anything to get the buzz.

Rotwand, ahhhhh, been there, done that, you should talk to SicMic on here. I think he holds the speed record and the number of ascents record for that wall.
Red Wing

climber
Truckee
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:03pm PT


A big choss, big adventure. Love it!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
U call that choss? Ho! :-)
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
Climbing something that is evolving right in front of you makes you feel so alive!

Testing shear strenght
Testing shear strenght
Credit: StahlBro
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
To climb (free solo) in your Adidas

With no clothes on in cheese grater alley on Three Fingered Jack!







A big choss, big adventure. Love it!


Looks like Barad Dur to me man!! That shitz is BULLET PROOF!!!

Credit: survival
dave729

Trad climber
Western America
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
studies are underway to discover what makes sane people leave perfectly comfortable beds to bivy in the choss.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#286142


MisterE

Social climber
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
Indeed it does - there, now I've admitted it. I feel better.
weezy

climber
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
2200' of choss


wheeler peak...the eiger of nevada's great basin?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
3500' of choss...


Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Mungahaulics! Behold The Belly!



















I know the way, Munge. This stuff is not related to the pinnacles. I don't know if its sound enough to take bolts... sorta doubt it. Maybe Footlongs!

DMT

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
Kinda interesting where those trees are growing... theories? (semi-impermeable layer traps water, imo)



Munge we really need to get out there eh? The brush is as sketch as the rock, x2 Bonus!

DMT
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
We know more about the Moon and the Bottom of the Sea than we know about the choss. The next Golden Age of Exploration will be a race to the center of the Chossverse. I, along with my fellow choss loving bretheren, will be first in line to try and beat James Cameron in this last great race...
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
^^^^ Chossatar!

DMT
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
Dingus,

Those pictures of your cobblefest look anything but choss. They look like steep jug pulling sweetness!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
Battlechoss Chosslactica!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 24, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
At least the views were nice!
At least the views were nice!
Credit: Vitaliy M.




errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr....wrong thread
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jan 24, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
Roughster... yes, until they pop out and smack you in the head. Definitely not a solo, padless bouldering area :-) You definitely see a lot of soap dishes in those closeups, and there is a disconcerting number of solid jugs laying on the ground at the base of every crag. Some cleaning might be in order.

The formation is a series of conglomerates and sandstone of great thickness and dipping southwest at a low angle.

Believed to be part of the Tejon/Chico formations, not all that old, and contemporaneous to the sandstones on the southern flank of Mt Diablo.

And not next to a road, either. Its a bit of a walk (but not outlandish). And yes... I've been wanting to go back every since I laid eyes on the place.

Btw glad to see you still in the game, though you kayaked out of here a long time ago ;-)

DMT
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jan 24, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
MORE CHOSS@!!@!

Wooohooooo!!!

Mung, post up the devils head!!

Mega choss fer sure
Ŗ ő ō T « H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 24, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Michelle

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Jan 24, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
You beat me too it Vit. What a pile.
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
From the Sedona Climbing Guide release party:

Credit: MisterE
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
See what you started Rob?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Yes, Dingus, yes.

I wanna tell you a little secret, being a chosser, is a lot like being in love. No one needs to tell you, you are in love, you just know it, through and through. Cobbles to brains.




Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
Can ya see the alien pod where we hatch the chosslings from?
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Thanks Manny for introducing me to Arizona choss!





froodish

Social climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
Nice thread!

Plaidman, paging Plaidman, please report to the choss room!

The title made me think of this:



"Dump it on everything, the Secret Aardvark compels you!!!!!"
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
What's even better than choss? Offwidth and squeeze chimney choss!

There's a great place up to the left of Upper Yosemite Falls that has a chimney slightly wider than heel-toe, full-on granite ball bearings spraying off everything and granite plates filling up your underwear.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
Nice Nutjob-that's cool you were in AZ climbing with Manny-looks like camelback choss to me, am I correct?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
If you climb in Eldo long enough you'll perhaps realize you've negotiated quite a bit of choss in outstanding locations mixed in with mostly stellar rock. That's when the Rotwand begins to feel approachable, desirable, COMPELLING even. Having navigated four routes on that gem I can say it's a little bit like climbing FROM position of relative safety TO position of relative safety (mix/match & repeat), without much reliable protection along the way. Not that there's anything wrong with that ... See, the choss, BE ... the choss ... Just don't let it "set you free".
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
The Fenn @ Echo Cliffs
The Fenn @ Echo Cliffs
Credit: justthemaid




Manny is THE choss-master BTW.





Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Your mother wears socks that smell!!!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Gal, yep that's Camelback right in the middle of Phoenix. I only had an afternoon after a training class in Phoenix a few years ago, and Manny gave me a gracious tour of fun stuff including his own creations. Or are they simply revelations of what hath been created already?
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
The imposing north arete of Mt Lewis via the quartz band traverse:

North Face of Mt Lewis from the southwest slopes of Mt Gibbs
North Face of Mt Lewis from the southwest slopes of Mt Gibbs
Credit: Bruce Morris

Still awaiting its FA.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
must....climb.....choss.....

It is in the genes

Credit: StahlBro
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 24, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Chossapalooza 2013!!!!! Be there or be smart!!! Just say no to solid holds!


No choss thread is complete without a nod to Top Hat BTW. Definitely a choice morsel not to be missed by the choss connoisseur.



Top Hat
Top Hat
Credit: justthemaid
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jan 24, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
that looks chosstastic, JTM. (...be there or be smart-love it!)

Nutjob-well you definitely got out with the right person to show you around, yes he was showing you his creations... those climbs are great for a half day in town when you can't get away for too long-great routes and ever shifting/crumbling rock ;-)

Tarbuster-haha, good to keep in mind-don't let it "set you free", words of wisdom...

MisterE

Social climber
Jan 24, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
What the hell is wrong with us?
Michelle

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Jan 24, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
I will now bomb your chossy blahblah with verbal choss.


Boo, Forever



Spinning like a ghost
on the bottom of a
top,
I'm haunted by all
the space that I
will live without
you.


Richard Brautigan
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
North face of Mt. Dana
First ascent, north rib of Mt Dana 5/24/82
First ascent, north rib of Mt Dana 5/24/82
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Volcanic rock in Iceland
Winter ascent of Mt. Esja, Iceland, 2002
Winter ascent of Mt. Esja, Iceland, 2002
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Lichen-covered conglomerate in New England BITD
New England 1970s
New England 1970s
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
New England 1970s
New England 1970s
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Does this qualify? Denali
Attempt on new route on Denali, 1983
Attempt on new route on Denali, 1983
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Ŗ ő ō T « H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
There is the other side of the coin too - where the rock is so slick and dense, that nobody wants a part of it. At least with choss, you figure to have good grip and alot of surface contact.
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
If you live on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington you learn to love choss, because it keeps you in shape for everywhere else, increases your overall climbing mileage, plus it only takes 30 minutes or less to get there from the homestead and it is fun to climb once scrubbed and suitably sanitized.

10b hands and fingers on water laid tuff
10b hands and fingers on water laid tuff
Credit: Hardly Visible


here's a corner in water laid tuff that can be done as a 5.8 layback, ...
here's a corner in water laid tuff that can be done as a 5.8 layback, a 5.9 right side in offwidth squeeze, a 10a/b stem with fingers and some steep hands or a straight up 11a fingers/hands splitter
Credit: Hardly Visible


roofy sandstone choss
roofy sandstone choss
Credit: Hardly Visible





Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
Yes, BIOTCH-that is a true statement.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
Like climbing on hard brown sugar

Wadi Rum, Jordan, 2012
Wadi Rum, Jordan, 2012
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Wadi Rum, Jordan, 2012
Wadi Rum, Jordan, 2012
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
Hardly, where's that Oly choss?

Mt Constance choss...
Ulf's Arete, Mt Constance.  It's a sad commentary that it hasn't been ...
Ulf's Arete, Mt Constance. It's a sad commentary that it hasn't been repeated, as far as I know, since it went up in '79. It ain't exactly hard and it has some quality choss!
Credit: Reilly

I know it isn't much of a line...
And that steep face to the left could be verrrry interesting.
And that steep face to the left could be verrrry interesting.
Credit: Reilly
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:24am PT
Reilly,

I'd tell ya but I'd hafta kill ya. Sandstone just downstream of lower Elwha dam site the tuff is west of Pt. Angeles along the straits.

P.S. I'd like to repeat yer line on Constance just can't walk that far anymore. Even tho it's only 5.9 I do not think any harder alpine free line has gone up in the Olympics since you did it.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:29am PT
Who is this Manny, and where are these conglo beeyoots!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:32am PT
Who has the goods on Peshastin Pinnacles? They are pretty saucy-chossy.
Lemme see, 'been across the Martian Ridge, also done crawled up Dr. Leakey. Didn't have the jeans if you know what I mean, for Bomb Shelter, an overhanging sand romp free climbed by Henry Barber.

Or how about that stuff outside of Grand Junction that Duane Raleigh and Pete Takeda climbed with ice tools ... Suggested in crunch's earlier post.
All hail the BOSS CHOSS!
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:36am PT
Ah! The elusive Olympic Peninsula climbing area - finally!

HV hinted at this during our Smith Rock rendezvous, but to actually lay eyes upon it!

How long is the climbing season at that choss? Like 25 days a year?

;)
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:51am PT
Hey Roy,

Peshastin pshtt... why climb on that sh#t when it is mostly bolted sandy slab climbin and there's all that nice granite nearby. However if its a rainy day up near Leavenworth both Vertigo and Empire State are worthy slightly overhanging cracks very out of the norm for Peshastin.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:52am PT
Who is this Manny?...

Credit: justthemaid
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:00am PT
Peshastin pshtt... why climb on that sh#t when it is mostly bolted sandy slab climbin and there's all that nice granite nearby

ha ha. Because my darling, loose living has its rewards!
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:01am PT
Mister E,

The tuff is probably dry 200+ days a year (forms a sharp ridge line in the forest so no dirt on top to hold water) so it dries within 2-3 days after a heavy storm and stays dry in showery periods. The sandstone April to late Ocrober good to go in any weather due to overhang.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:02am PT
We got yer choss. Oh yes. Idaho is a Sea of Choss with pockets of World Class Stone.
Stupid Choss!
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:04am PT
Stupid Choss!

it's not stupid, it's nice - you just have to treat it gently. Like a woman.

Embrace the choss, caress the choss...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:08am PT
Tim Messick, following the fourth class northwest ridge of Mount Maclure, on the way to Mount Lyell.
Like dancin' on dinner plates .... Yeah Baby!

Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:13am PT
Gentle. Um, not so much. We tend to thrash.
It does get more solid when it's frozen.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:19am PT
... Because choss is SEXY and chicks dig it!





MisterE

Social climber
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:21am PT
Hardly Visible: Who knew? And within 50 miles of one of the temperate rain-forests of the world...will wonders never cease?

CHOOSE THE CHOSS.

AVOID THE CROWDS.
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:35am PT
Roy,

Yer partner might be too much of a distraction for me, prolly too much time on the boobs thread... But I'll see your choss and raise you by a couple of alpine seafloor scrapings.

Mt. Olympus
Mt. Olympus
Credit: Hardly Visible


Inner Constance
Inner Constance
Credit: Hardly Visible


Mt. Pershing
Mt. Pershing
Credit: Hardly Visible


wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jan 25, 2013 - 04:24am PT
Mount Morrison (upper left)
Mount Morrison (upper left)
Credit: wstmrnclmr
Mount Morrison. A partner of mine wanted to climb the Northeast Buttress. It looks beautiful from a distance but everyone I talked to who's climbed it (and they are few) said it's the scariest death climb they've ever been on. My friend Mark Wagner got on it and said it was one of the worst experiences of his life but that I needed to do it because the suffering would be an experience unequaled in all of climbing. He said leading it was like climbing hundreds of feet of giant broken dishes. But leading it was the safest way up because the belayer was the one risking life and limb as rockfall was a certainty. He climbed the crux and refused to go further as it looked grim above so he and his partner down climbed the route and bailed. Rapping was not an option.
cowpoke

climber
Jan 25, 2013 - 07:30am PT
hi quality choss just a 15 minute stroll from the parking lot.


Some of my most satisfying and some of my most terrifying moments were on choss, with the former being in the Snowies of Wyo (above) and Norwegian choss and the latter being on that chimney approach to Broadway on Long's (uggh, falling rocks = bad).
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Jan 25, 2013 - 10:02am PT
Here is some good mixed choss from one of the masters, Raphael Slawinski.
Hard mixed choss and NO bolts.
http://vimeo.com/21932853
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Jan 25, 2013 - 10:24am PT
Rodgers Peak...I had to climb this one!
Rodgers Peak...I had to climb this one!
Credit: RP3

Total garbage....beautiful garbage!
Total garbage....beautiful garbage!
Credit: RP3

This thread is fantastic!
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Jan 25, 2013 - 10:35am PT
Some fine NorCal Kitty Litter choss!

Credit: Roughster

Credit: Roughster

Tarbuster: I can't stop looking at your 1st choss picture. Was that painted on? That shirt is simply defying the laws of fabric... :)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 11:41am PT
Was that painted on?
Yes ... Handpainted with finger paints of course.

Mount Morrison!
No doubt the poster child of the whole thread.
Quote by Vern Clevenger: "Mount Morrison, [all it would take is] ... one well-placed cherry bomb ..."
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Jan 25, 2013 - 11:41am PT
My favorite choss "The Hand".

Credit: Adamame

Credit: Adamame
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 11:46am PT
How bout 'thum Eastern Bloc kids whats climbs frozen vertical grass with ice tools!

Then there's the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado. 10,000 mi.≤ of choss:





justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
All this talk of choss is making me pine for Texas Canyon.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
The San Juans, oh yeah, been there, done lots of that, at least 2 or 3 in that last picture.

Here's another choss meister from that general area.

Courtesy Richard M. Wright
Courtesy Richard M. Wright
Credit: ydpl8s

The infamous Chossmaster Bob Dickerson (of Gunnison fame) once told me (paraphrasing) "you just need to keep moving, if the hold falls off right after you leave it, well you were just helping Mother Nature's physical erosion a little bit"

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Cripes, at this stage of the game my entire BODY is choss.
... And it is neither powerful nor compelling. Ha!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
I've been by that thing YDS, on the "shortcut" from Ouray to Gunnison. It has a history as you know.
There is even more venerable choss to be ogled along the way. (See below).
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
I think that chunky tower is called Chimney Rock? (Or is that the thing near Pagosa Springs) or both ...

Further along the dirt road heading toward Gunnison from Ouray one comes to Silver Jack Reservoir to encounter these magnificent conglomerate towers:





Similar stuff visible from Highway 50 bordering the northern shores of Curecanti reservoir.
Where ground-up (in both senses of the phrase) kitty litter lovin' hard mens and wymins go to die!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
Yeah, that's Chimney Rock, we got there driving up the road from Cimmaron after directions from Jimmy Newberry. It's right near Turret Ridge and not too far from Coxcomb.

Here's another pic from that general area looking towards the giant choss Uncompahgre, from the top of Wetterhorn (which actually has some good rock on it). This pic was taken in the Fall of 72, the guy in the orange wind breaker is co-author of one of the Colorado mountain guides (can't remember the name of it) Gary Kocsis.

Credit: ydpl8s
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
From Munge's home territory...

Actually more solid than it looks (mostly):



nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Somewhere near Highway 395... maybe en route to Bode from Mono Lake?





Buildering choss:
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
The picture at the top of the page (knuclehead in blue pants & white helmet) is the Wetterhorn direct finish. Not all THAT loose.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
Credit: mrtropy



StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 25, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
Credit: Not mine
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
"Secrit" crag in Boulder Canyon:




Dbl rope tech advised:






Period footwear a plus:



Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
yesh!
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jan 25, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
Tarbuster, I found the rotwand compelling for the same reason, its seems a route is "more trad" if its got loose rock on it. Well if you want to get gripped in Eldo there are lots of ways to do it. For some reason I was attracted by the idea that there's a big part of Eldo where no one climbs, didn't really think about why.

Once I was in the Adirondaks on a route, I dont remember the name but it was a kind of pillar made of detached broken blocks, probably 5.7 climbing but every single move and every gear placement was on disconnected blocks just stacked on each other. Definitely adds to the excitement of a route.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Yes, we begin to perceive the hazards differently. The mind becomes enriched through that process of penetrating through the outer layer of puzzle pieces and peeling them away, discrediting the unwanted holds and stances. Intuiting the safe passage: that's the name of the game and the fun of it! Choss is boss. User experience may vary.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
Think about it: even the Bachar Yerian is ... uh ... Choss. It's well-known, (not that I'd know), that you must be keenly selective with the fragile knobs or the big ride is yours for the taking.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 25, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
Gal, yep that's Camelback right in the middle of Phoenix. I only had an afternoon after a training class in Phoenix a few years ago, and Manny gave me a gracious tour of fun stuff including his own creations. Or are they simply revelations of what hath been created already?


I recognized the area, especially in conjunction with Manny's name.

The rock there varies for sure. I did some very low grade soloing there and felt safe. I also did a climb of Manny's called Dr. Demento and did not! Let's just say it has a highly evolving grade.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
Intuiting the safe passage

Great name for a route!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 25, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
I found all manner of variants tooling around off piste in Eldorado Canyon. Concocted a direct variation of Yellow Spur requiring sling protection around a torso sized wing of rock hinging out of the crack. Sling it, check it and commit full body weight to it, hanging straight off the arms to reach a higher jam. Straightened the route out really nicely with two independent pitches mid-route. Did it a couple of times; once with Rob Slater. I told him I didn't think it should go in the guidebook. He disagreed.

Lots of other more insignificant straightening out of routes to be had on not so consolidated ground. Or just without protection. At the top of Outer Space, a variation which I believe is listed, you can just cut straight up and slightly right, without protection in shallow pockets. Being able to handle weird ground is the key to that kind of meandering activity. Creative freedom!

One day I heard the siren song and on-site soloed Roof Wall on Hotspur. Including the Erickson 5.10 undercling start. But that's not where the spice was. There be a fair amount of loose/flexi but navigable 5.8 rock in the midsection, topped by a semi-crunchy 5.9+ overhanging finger crack. Hotspur has got a few other B-list jewels. Like Northumberland crack, a semi-crunchy OW, no real wide gear necessary for the lead but probably seldom climbed. Or SunStar, an independent route with mixed quality just right of Hotspur, also sans cord for me on just another day out under the sun; I think it would protect okay, but not great. Either way it's pure adventure and the Choss somewhat defines it.

"Go where you want to go and do what you want to do." Nothing like mastery to keep the soul ticking along in the groove. Man that is good living when you are fully tuned and up for it!

[Disclaimer: soloing Choss is kind of doing it on the cheap. Wiggling in sporadic protection while passing over uncelebrated ground is a big part of the kick.]
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:11am PT
whole boat loads...



Such pretty rock from afar. Enticing and dangerous to be sure.
weezy

climber
Jan 26, 2013 - 02:16am PT
good from far...far from good.
Michelle

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Jan 26, 2013 - 02:17am PT
I often succumb to the incredible shrinking crag issue.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:29am PT
gangster...



mtnyoung pulled this one. There was exactly one move that was decent on it. The rest was meant for landfill.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jan 26, 2013 - 02:39am PT
It's a miracle it got that pointy!! It's really black wood, not ebony though.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:16am PT
oh yeah, that's the stuff!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:16am PT
Hanksville?
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 26, 2013 - 10:01am PT
Holy crap Munge. Those last photos...hard to believe you lived to post them.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jan 26, 2013 - 10:58am PT
Nutjob,

Looks like some rocks just north of Bridgeport on 395, I forget the name of the pass.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 26, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
An excellent trip report about a big day out in The Pinnacles bagging summits, loaded with wonderful panoramic photographs.
Must click on the independent link provided to see the Full Monty and well worth it in ambience alone.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Brads-Tour-of-Mud-A-Visionary-Tour-of-Pinnacles-National-Park/t11817n.html
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
Tarbouissier! Good call!



maid, fortunately, that last one I didn't have to lead nothing.


This is the one I thought I might die on. It's all A1 at pinns, till something rips.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1040909/Premeditated-part-1-TR



Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
and Dingus, how was kferry? (or the brakes?)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 26, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
Outstanding cardboard rock you've been tinkering with Munge Man!
There there Munge ... Why don't you come inside for a little while so we can get you the help you need! Ha ha. Here Kitty Kitty.

East Buttress, Lower Middle Cathedral.
We've had some good discussions about the route; Fissure Beck, Bachar's on-site solo and so forth. The upper third of that route, and bits and pieces of it along the way are pretty darn Chossy. Nonetheless, it's near the top of my list for B grade classics.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
hahaha, the latest discussions have centered around Monty Python and the peasants "There's some lovely filth over here"

lol
dave729

Trad climber
Western America
Jan 26, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
CHOSS a game where the only winning move is not to play!

The French like Choss so much they live next to it. Picturesque.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Moustiers_Sainte_Marie_1.jpg


Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 26, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
Here's some choss to die for, and you might if you go there!* ...jess sayin'

Marsel Van Oosten/Squiver
Marsel Van Oosten/Squiver
Credit: Marsel Van Oosten/Squiver



*I think this is Mali - LOL!
I could ask Marsel if yer interested in dying early.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
Now that's some crazy blocs!


dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jan 26, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
Wow, I like that Mali shot. To look at anyway.


Yes Munge, the mega....something....Long Dong Silver.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 02:08am PT
Dave,

Here's the pic Gordo posted on an earlier thread of that thing...


Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jan 27, 2013 - 02:55am PT
Dayummn Reilly, yes i'm interested in dying early, that shot is something else!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 04:54am PT
Mr. Mud doing his thing on the first pitch of Peregrine

MisterE

Social climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 07:56am PT
It ain't no Red Rocks sandstone!

Chosstastic Sedona, Arizona:

The Planetarium, Sedona
The Planetarium, Sedona
Credit: MisterE
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 27, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
Kastraki Tower Meteora, Greece.
The rock is a conglomerate, so it can vary from Pinnacles-like quality to occasionally rival that of Tuolumne.
Developed under a strict ground-up ethic by Dieter Hasse.

This route was something like five or six pitches. Bigger than it looks in the picture for sure! The first pitch, 5.10 stemming and chimney against walls with nearly the consistency of dirt, but more like frozen dirt, so not quite that bad.

At the 5.10 OW crux, the rock is a bit flakey and littered with pokey crystalline shaped knobs.



Still, one of the more novel climbs of memory!
A bit on the Chossy side and also a powerful line to be sure.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
Homan! I'd bleed all over that.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
^^^ yep, what Skully said. gah!


So want to go there.

My list of EU destinations that I want to go to...

Elbsandstein
Meteora
Gritstone (again)
Kalymnos
Dolomites

Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 27, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
the king of choss in cali.
mt.morrison
mt.morrison
Credit: Stewart Johnson
do a drive by.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
Reilly, that image is from the Western Desert of Egypt.


Van Oosten talks about his trip there and to the White Desert also, here:

http://squivernews.blogspot.com/2011/05/new-photo-tour-to-egypt-sahara.html
SicMic

climber
two miles from Eldorado
Jan 28, 2013 - 01:34am PT
Gotta throw a vote for Monte Paterno in the Dolomites. Pretty ugly. The Lions Head formation in Eagle is vertical dirt maintaining a disquise. I'll load up a few shots of the craptasm that is the Rotwand.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 10:43am PT
Dolomites!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jan 28, 2013 - 11:26am PT
the king of choss in cali.

hey, what about Mt. Dana?

Line of the first ascent, North Rib, Mt. Dana
Line of the first ascent, North Rib, Mt. Dana
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Action GOMZ firing...


mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Feb 5, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
concur.....The Hand.

Credit: mooch
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
what on earth is that?
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 6, 2013 - 12:27am PT
OH SCHIST!

My subconscious-mind had made me avoid looking at this thread until tonight.

and then I did.

Please appreciate that I am in recovery from being:

A CHOSS-ADDICT!

This is all very difficult for me.

Thank you for your great photos & stories.

SCHIST!

I'm going to have nightmares again, tonight!

It's been many sleepless nights, since that trip to the Hayes Range in Alaska in 1976.

N. Face Mt. Deborah, 1976, Schist & Ice.
N. Face Mt. Deborah, 1976, Schist & Ice.
Credit: Fritz

A little wine helps, at bedtime.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 12:32am PT
worthy post there Fritz.


we're here for you.


post away, if it helps... :)
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 6, 2013 - 12:40am PT
The "belayer slayer" pitch on Der Dihedral FA - a variation on Dragontail Peak in the North Cascades (Leavenworth area)...I was the belayer, Mike is the delicate leader. The loose tooth is below him.

Credit: MisterE

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 12:45am PT
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 6, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
I may be "in recovery" from being a "choss-addict"------but we can't let this thread be lost!

Highest summit in Idaho's Sawtooth Mountains.  Chossotopia!
Highest summit in Idaho's Sawtooth Mountains. Chossotopia!
Credit: Fritz
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:34am PT
Munge!
You must admit Fritz' be taking the cake with that one. (That is some hideous Choss Fritz!).
Door prize?
Does he get first pick out of the box of Krispy Kreme's or what?
Ŗ ő ō T « H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:22am PT
In the late 80s I was scoping out potential south of dreamers (pocketopia etc) on Sherwin Plateau. I found a new grotto down there, and got half way up this nice line when the hold comes off and hits me in the face. I was kinda worried about how much it was gonna bleed, but safely rode my bike back home to Sunny Slopes.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 7, 2013 - 09:30am PT
Fritz's Sawtooth photo definitely gets the krispy cream.

Holy crap.. that thing looks like a giant house of cards built out of stone guillotines ready to collapse the minute the wind changes direction.

Chosstopia indeed ...
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Feb 7, 2013 - 09:51am PT
Mmmmm, choss.







Lots of choss in Newfoundland.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 7, 2013 - 10:10am PT
This is me sitting on a pile of choss called Rabbit Ears. Never was a ...
This is me sitting on a pile of choss called Rabbit Ears. Never was a better piece of choss to be found.
Credit: Plaidman
Froodish paged me earlier in this thread.
Plaidman, paging Plaidman, please report to the choss room!

I deem that this Choss thread must be commented on as I am an official choss monster of the highest degree.

Locally we have a wall we call the Shite Wall. It is choss that we are compelled to keep secret so that no one steals this mountain of choss from us.

I have met others of us that really find choss quit challenging and enjoy it after the fact.

Credit: Plaidman

CHOSS MONSTERS UNITE!!!!!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 11:05am PT
Edge, cool rock.


plaidman, YESH!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 11:06am PT
Fritz, datz a good one!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:30am PT
Shot through the head
and you're to blame
you give choss
a good name!



DMT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
I play my part
and I play my game


I give choss, a good name



good name
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 7, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
When I get home I will post another issue of Moss and Choss
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
How much for a subscription?

I already got 'issues'
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Feb 7, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Sometimes the choss fights back.
Result of Chossy FA
Result of Chossy FA
Credit: Texplorer
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 7, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
^^^^^^^Helmets are made for that sort of thing!^^^^
Is this guy going for a Darwin Award?
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 7, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
Here is the latest issue.
I have lots of issues for sure.
Luckily I have faithful belay slaves. Sometimes I call them climbing partners. I did offer to give one of the leads to my partner last time we were on a chossy project. He declined.
Without this guy I wouldn't get up half the stuff I get to climb.
Without this guy I wouldn't get up half the stuff I get to climb.
Credit: Plaidman

The issues of Moss and Choss are priceless.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
LOL, awesome!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 7, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
Munge get me a photo and I will get you in the next issue.
Maybe we can get on something really loose and crappy and scare the bjesus out of ourselves. I have a few projects in mind.

Plaid
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 7, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
Plaidman! I am impressed with your obvious mastery of

Choss & Moss.

However----back to the Choss-state, Idaho.

The ROTTEN MONOLITH is composed entirely of granite that is easily confused with sand.

The well-known authority of choss, F. Beckey mentions his 1961 ascent, in the list of ascents, in his first bio-book "Challenge of The North Cascades."

Clutched up edge of very scary rotten flake.

In the era of pitons, nervous leaders on the Rotten Monolith could beat pitons directly into the decomposing granite whenever they needed psychological assurance.
Rotten Monolith at left, Heyburn at center right from the flat summit ...
Rotten Monolith at left, Heyburn at center right from the flat summit of Braxton Chosspile.
Credit: Kim & Pete

Rotten Monolith, a large pile of sand.
Rotten Monolith, a large pile of sand.
Credit: Fritz
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 7, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Fritz with all due respect I think we in Oregon can out Choss you there in Idaho. At least you guys have City of Rocks and some other awesome granite. So I regrettably have to inform you that because Idaho is in possession of some stellar granite that it is disqualified from being the Choss State.

Oregon on the other hand has no granite to speak of, and we are uniquely qualified and maybe over qualified to be known (or branded) the consummate State of Choss.



Just look at this monster:
Credit: Plaidman


Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
Plaidman! I would surrender to your mastery of:

MOSS AND CHOSS!

and let you cite Oregon as:

THE CHOSS STATE OF THE STATE!

but, even though we don't have the moss


PRAISE JESUS! WE GOTS DE CHOSS!

El Capitan, Sawtooth Range, Idaho.
El Capitan, Sawtooth Range, Idaho.
Credit: Fritz

There is not a single solid rock on the horribly mis-named El Capitan in the Sawtooth Mountains.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 8, 2013 - 12:39am PT


Future sport wall?



Hoz, man. That is some steep choss.



The weremouse and black lassie meet trogdor.



Practice in seeing just how bad anchors can be


Making Oregon look solid since the end of the LIA


When granite goes bad.

I don't have any pics of the bad stuff on Plinth because rockfall smashed my camera while I was trying to take a photo of the choss. F*#king paparazzi!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Maybe I can get my wife the Empress of Adventure to Knight me as Sir Choss-a-lot. I may have to do some kind of service for that high honor.

Here is another photo of a pile of choss called Dog Mountain Spine:
The only thing solid on the whole spine of Dog Mountain is Dog Rock.
The only thing solid on the whole spine of Dog Mountain is Dog Rock.
Credit: Plaidman

It took me three tries to get up to Dog Rock. Lots of Choss. Moss Ax in hand I finally found my way.
Credit: Plaidman

Moss Ax
Credit: Plaidman


Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
I tracked down Munge to get an interview and snap a few photos for the newest issue of Moss and Choss and almost got clobbered for my effort.

Munge is serious about his choss.

Credit: Plaidman
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Feb 9, 2013 - 12:04am PT
Lol, priceless is right!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 9, 2013 - 10:22am PT
I'm lovin' the Moss and Choss!

Jebus sed:
Let's just say it has a highly evolving grade.

LOL





BTW.. should I start production on more t-shirts?


sorry- it was the only pic I could find on short notice. Pay no attention to the stellar-quality rock in the background...
it was just a fling.. I swear.

Credit: justthemaid

Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 9, 2013 - 11:29am PT
T-shirts yes. I would wear one proudly. Although I'm not gunna look as good as you in it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
T-shirt!!!





New movie out...

Silence of the Mosses

"It belays under the roof, or it gets the loose rock again!"
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 9, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
Another movie just out......of my mind.

Chossist Unchained:

A movie about the blood guts and glory of choss. And the revenge of a Chossist over coming snooty elitist climbers and mountaineers that only climb good rock.

Elitist defined: The belief that certain persons or members of certain classes or groups deserve favored treatment by virtue of their perceived superiority, as in intellect, social status, or financial resources.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 9, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
Whose cliffs these are I do not know.
His house lies under boulders, though;
He will not see me climbing here
His body lies 'neath scree and snow.

My partner he must think it queer
To stop without firm anchor near
'Tween teetering blocks and mossy seep
To seek a route up fractured tiers.

He gives our tattered rope a take
And asks if there is some mistake.
The only other sound's the sweep
Of tumbling stones and guillotine flakes.

The rock is crumbly, sharp, and steep,
But I have a crevasse to greet,
And piles of choss before I sleep,
And piles of choss before I sleep.
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 9, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
^^ The girl is on a roll!^^ LOL!

Mmmmm...soft, pillowy choss:

FA of "Sundogs" 5.11c
FA of "Sundogs" 5.11c
Credit: MisterE

The great thing about it is that when it hits you, it just explodes into dust and does no real damage.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 9, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
Choss has come of age. Great liturature, Movies, magazines, T-shirts. All we need now is action figures and lunch boxes.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 9, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Choss as a main course is best served cold...


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 9, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
Just up behind the house a click on the sunny Colorado Chossapalooza tour Ö for some Gneiss Choss:






Route on the left,
60 meters, one bolt and assorted rock ticklin' trinkets:




Drilling:





Next route to the right:
Stich succoring the lichen and brittle flanges:






Second pitch as clean as Choss gets!






Happy ChossAholics on the summit!
James Peak and Mount Evans in the distant background:



Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 9, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
ChossAholics

That's a good one. Little chance of recovery though. It may take 13 steps or more. The only cure would be abstinence.

NEVER!!!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 9, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
^^^^^ Tar, that's Choss? HaHaHaHaHa! ;-)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
Maid, that is beautiful!



bouldering the good stuff...

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 9, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
Munge! Love you brother. Made the Zine cover too, perfect subtitle.

You still gotta hit up Knights Ferry with Angus and I, you know, before you can don the Munge Master Crown.

I'm jus sayin....

DMT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Hrm, wonder if I can convince the guys to hit up KFerry after a columbia session tomorrow?


Definitely Carrizo. Pick a weekend. I'm in.




Even the AAC supports this stuff...


https://vimeo.com/26336384
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
Hittin' up the quality choss tomorrow!

Who doesn't love sketchy volcanic tuff?

Credit: MisterE


Credit: MisterE

Credit: MisterE

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 9, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
Tar, that's Choss? GaHaHaHaHa! ;-)
I know Reilly, I know. I Öum, Well Ö please don't report the infraction.
I assure you I'm in good standing with professional organizations such as CRAP & BARFA.

C.R.A.P.
Consortium of Rockclimbers Asking for Problems
B.A.R.F.A.
Bogus And Rotten Fells Association



Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 9, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
Tar, rest assured that I wasn't impugning your knowledge of the subject.
That stuff did look fair to licheny which can provide a worthy experience
on its own merits. I can recall being nearly blinded and rendered
instantly asthmatic on a few occasions. :-/
tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
Feb 9, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
Munge, you kinda look like John Cleese atop the castle wall shouting obscenities regarding mothers in boots and elderberries.
Next thing he'll do is fling cows at you!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
Lol, the holy hand cobble!

tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
Feb 9, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
Runaway!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 9, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
you guys need to see some videos from the culm coast in the uk. that stuff is sh#t. rotten shale covered with dirt and guano and vegetation. makes oregon look like cirque of the unclimbables
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
aye, and where's that Irish Island video. Where they did it on the one day that northern IRE has sunshine...
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 9, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
Lol, the holy hand cobble!

"Hellloooo! We are from Chossalot and are on a holy mission seeking the Chossy Grail.
If you will allow us access to your crumbling tower, we will let you join us on our quest!"



"Some call me 'Tim' and I am guardian of the Choss - just look at that manky tower behind me that you will never reach! Ha! That is, unless..."

Credit: MisterE

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 10, 2013 - 02:03pm PT

This choss is in New Zealand. You can't see it but Andrew in the pic is actually toe hooking to prevent falling into space, what with being upside down and all.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 10, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
I've heard this place called choss but I think it climbs really good!
you could climb here if you wanted
you could climb here if you wanted
Credit: kennyt
Meet yer maker
Meet yer maker
Credit: kennyt
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 10, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
Call it choss. It will keep the crowds away.
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
Don't choss me, Bro!!!!
Backclip

Trad climber
utah
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:51am PT
Some of these pix (thanks for sharing BTW) look like good stone. Let me show you what TRUE choss is.

The creator of "This is the Choss", a Choss climbing park, brings you this....The last pitch on the Rattlehorn in City Creek Canyon in SLC.



crunch

Social climber
CO
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
Hey Backclip,

that's a hilarious picture!

That IS choss!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
Backclip,

that's so ultimately chosstasty, and it looks like it's 5.3.


send that rig!
Backclip

Trad climber
utah
Feb 12, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
The angle says 5.3 but the loose dirt screams 5.9R. Literally EVERYTHING you touch on that pitch will be on the ground soon enough. We still give him a hard time about this route. When he talked me into going up there we topped out in the dark and could hear all this buzzing by our asses (we were sitting down). Turned out to be a den of baby rattlesnakes...good times!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Backclip, that looks like a pile of mud! you may need a weed whacker also.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
LOL

Horrifying!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
Hey Backclip, You should come check this place out!


Credit: kennyt
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 12, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
Backclip..... you win.

So I was driving back to LA from Phoenix Monday.

Any info on the stuff south of the 10 about 25 miles shy of Quartzsite?

Kofa Nat wildlife refuge....

Looks like some Big Choss Walls and Spires.

MR E ?????
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
I got nothin...






















BUT CHOSS!!!!

Last pitch of Peking, Smith Rock State Park.
Last pitch of Peking, Smith Rock State Park.
Credit: MisterE
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 12:58am PT


This was the closest to choss we got last weekend. Mud in the horizontal crack. QUE HORRIBLE!

justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:25am PT
Yikes there Backclip.. I wouldn't categorize that as a "pitch".. I think choss of that caliber needs a whole new term.. I'll think on it.

You've raised the bar. Now that the gauntlet has been thrown down.. I'm forced me to dig up my Willard Island pics for my next thread bump.

We had a typical chosstastic weekend at Echo Cliffs. Climbed a few routes we hadn't done before. The best thing about Echo... even though these quality routes (for some strange reason) were completely devoid of chalk , you could easily tell which holds to use by looking for the glue. Thanks Louis!

Credit: justthemaid



justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 13, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Behold, Willard Island. So chossy the vertical faces are literally unclimbable. You'd be dead in minutes under a pile of jagged rubble.. that is if the primordial choss-monsters roaming the scree field don't get you first.

1000 foot elevation gain off the Sea of Cortez. You walk the spine and pray the entire time it doesn't disintegrate beneath your feet.


Top of Willard
Top of Willard
Credit: justthemaid


Sea of Cortez from Willard
Sea of Cortez from Willard
Credit: justthemaid
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 13, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
We love choss so much, we even got choss video:

Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 13, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Don't we get bonus points for climbing choss?
Backclip

Trad climber
utah
Feb 14, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
Sweet! I win! What do I get? hahaha...seriously though, some of the pix posted as choss look like dreamy stone.

I stared to bolt a line at Echo above what we dubbed "the Fire Swamp". Got 4 bolts in (willy stick style) and called it after hitting shite stone/dirt. I don't know whats worse, the train going by or the Highway noise. Echo just plain sucks IMO.
Backclip

Trad climber
utah
Feb 14, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
For those unfamiliar with Willy Sticks.

http://www.climbingtrash.com/thewillystick.html

BTW this site rules!^^^^


Yippie!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 14, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
Don't we get bonus points for climbing choss?

That all depends. It is a tricky grading system these guys came up with...

Credit: Reilly
Backclip

Trad climber
utah
Feb 14, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
Are those Geico sales reps?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 14, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
They're Plaidman's rope guns.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
Shiprock? THE Shiprock is climbable?
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 14, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
That piece of crap called Ship Rock at Smith Rock has a few routes on it. I wouldn't waste my time on it though unless you have a death wish and don't care about the welfare of others. The main hiking trail is at the bottom of it and I am sure that if anything came off it would take out a hiker or two. That thing is beyond choss.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 14, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
OMG.. the ears on those guys in the picture LOL

@ Backclip.. that picture is Echo Cliffs in Malibu. No highway or noise pollution anywhere in sight.

@ Plaidman.. er.. yeah.. Shiprock.. I don't have a death wish and wanted to get home in my car.. not in a body bag, so we never actually did the "route". Just thought the guide description was hilarious.

Edit to add: Choss really does need it's own grading system.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 14, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
Do we grade on the hardest move on the pitch, or on the feeling you are going to pitch, and that the pro is crap and you have not a chance in hell of making it out alive?

Extra points for spiceyness and how bad it looks. Although I have had some say that's choss, and I respond. It's really not that bad.

Grading is all in your mind. And I don't mind choss in the right place.

I just got my TR of the St. Peter's Dome climb published in the new Mazama Annual.

Best choss I ever climbed.
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 14, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
Chances of killing your belayer with loose rock must be incorporated into the grade, devalued if there is an overhang/cave that said victim can huddle in.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 14, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
We had a good cave on St. Peter's Dome. Totally protected the belayer. I really did think about how not to kill my best friend on that endeavor.

My partner did how ever pulled off a rock bigger than a softball when he started jugging the rope without making sure that he was directly below the anchor. So when he finally weighted the rope it was dragged across the rock and pulled off a chunk. The damn thing whacked him in the thigh.

That was on him though... literally. He won't do that again.

I tried to tell him..... sometimes they just got to hose it up for themselves to learn.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 15, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Here's a few from our local glory spot, Chossil Rock


A charming little area


Green moss and white legs, you know you're in Washington


A detail shot of the fertile choss. Yes, this is a route.


It gets cleaner as it gets steeper


Friendly warm up routes...


...and not universally mossy.


Of course, sometimes we'll drive 3 hours to the dry side of the state to climb at the Chossyard.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 15, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
Its true that this thread isn't all choss, there are some FRAC areas too. In case you don't recall, that's "Funky Rock, Awesome Climbing".
Backclip

Trad climber
utah
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
I was thinking you were talking about Echo closer to my home in SLC. That place sucks! The pix above look moss-tacular!
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
This is almost as good as the original boob thread!

Anyone got any pics of the fine choss of the Superstitions????
Lots of choss to love there!!!!

kev
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Off White, that is some serious choss. The last one reminds me of a quarry where all the rock is shattered by dynamite but still holding together somehow.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 15, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Credit: StahlBro

Credit: StahlBro
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 15, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
Jeremy is curiously absent in this thread...
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 15, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
^^^^YEAH! WTF! Where are those guys?
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 15, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
StahlBro those pics are awesome. The first one looks like there are ticking time bombs in layers just ready to cut loose!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 15, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
Here is a link to a choss climb called The West Chimney of Crown Point:

http://video-embed.oregonlive.com/services/player/bcpid619326654001?bctid=635610601001&bckey=AQ~~,AAAAMEmGiYE~,1EavPvrrEXPD6BH9blwxQxI6DDdjlFMo
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:09am PT
Crown Point.. yee haw. Good candidate for the next issue of Moss and Choss. You know it's the good stuff when you're wishing you'd brought along your battery-powered weed-wacker.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 16, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
I think the weeds are what's holding it together. I'd leave um ;-)
abrams

Sport climber
Feb 17, 2013 - 01:07am PT
Its so f'd up when choss comes to visit you rather than the other way around
Credit: abrams

Credit: abrams

Credit: abrams




MisterE

Social climber
Feb 17, 2013 - 01:15am PT
But on a more positive note:

Credit: MisterE

Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 17, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Yeah justthemaid Crown Point could have it's own issue featuring it in Moss and Choss. Some of the ledges are only made up of moss. A little scary the first time I did the West Chimney. Some would wonder why I have climbed it 3x. Cause it's fun.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 17, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
StahlBro your first pic is disqualified. This sport is called rock climbing not sediment climbing. Rock has lithified.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 17, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
Bouldering on Thumb Rock, Liberty Ridge, Mt. Rainier. I forget the name of this intrepid climber, but he was the founder of Pipestone Mountaineering in Missoula, MT.

Credit: McHale's Navy
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 17, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
Too bad. The Chosswidth on the right side rules. It gets wider every time you climb it.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 17, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
McHales! Re your mention:
I forget the name of this intrepid climber, but he was the founder of Pipestone Mountaineering in Missoula, MT.


Is that the near-legendary Jim Wilson?

Speaking of Thumb-Rock on Liberty Ridge. By the time I finally got around to climbing the route in the early 1980's, every other turkey in the NW had figured out they could do the route in June.

We barely had room to camp at the flat-bivy under Thumb-Rock. We were forced to bivy right-up against the thumb and 15' above us was a huge detached flake, just hanging there like an axe-head. It stayed put, but I had nightmares.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 17, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
We had the total ridge to ourselves in 1995! It was approximately June. We camped on the summit for 2 days in a storm and saw nobody, then descended the Emmons to the Emmons ranger hut and saw nobody - and used the radio there to let everyone know we were OK. I guess that was pretty weird looking back on it - shows you how bad the weather was!

I climbed the Emmons Glacier route with Dave Gotlieb about the same time and we snowboarded off the summit. Again, the weather was bad, but it was also Memorial Weekend and the road had just opened. We hiked in while it rained and snowed and climbed the mountain with not another soul there. Had to plow through waste deep snow almost all the way up - and got there just before sunset with just enough time to fly down!


You mean the Stoney Point Jim Wilson? That's not him and his name was not Jim Wilson. I mean Jim Wilson's name was Jim Wilson, but not this guy. I forget this guy's name, but it wasn't Jim Wilson. If it was Jim Wilson he would have recognized me as a Stoney Point guy but he didn't.

This shows the true power of the choss - let the choss be with you. 2nd video is better, plus there are more links when it's over;

http://www.justgetout.net/wenatchee/22554
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 18, 2013 - 12:50am PT
This shows the true power of the choss - let the choss be with you.

That second video was wild!
WOW! Revenge of the CHOSS! That was is certainly an eye opener. Don't get in the way of the CHOSS! Let the CHOSS have it's way. Cause it will make a way where there was none before.

Plaid
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Feb 18, 2013 - 02:03am PT
As several other folks have pointed out - the Northwest is truly the land of choss, and the voluminous basalt flows of eastern Washington are truly choss-Mecca. If you're climbing without the knowledge that any (or every) handhold, foothold, or "fixed" anchor could suddenly fail under body weight at any moment, where's the thrill?
Basalt choss at it's finest - Wallula Gap, WA.
Basalt choss at it's finest - Wallula Gap, WA.
Credit: kpinwalla2
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 18, 2013 - 02:15am PT
If you're climbing without the knowledge that any (or every) handhold, foothold, or "fixed" anchor could suddenly fail under body weight at any moment, where's the thrill?

That's what I say. It adds to the fun as long as you don't hurt anyone else. Belayer's beware! Always wear a helmet...and shoulder pads and a shield may not be a bad idea.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 18, 2013 - 02:29am PT
Very nice.....very nice choss. I have a gong I could put to use as a shield.
Ŗ ő ō T « H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 18, 2013 - 03:59am PT
Honopu beach on Kauai
There seems to have been some sort of rockslide that opened up ... and there are huge boulders strewn on the beach.
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 18, 2013 - 10:11am PT
No choss thread is complete without Texas Canyon pictures:





kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:22am PT
That's what I say. It adds to the fun as long as you don't hurt anyone else. Belayer's beware! Always wear a helmet...and shoulder pads and a shield may not be a bad idea.

I agree. You know you've encountered authentic choss when the belayer is at greater risk of injury than the climber. Someone should come up with a line of protective gear for the choss belayer - as suggested above. Choss climbing might really take off if belayers resembled gladiators....
Credit: kpinwalla2
Credit: kpinwalla2
dave729

Trad climber
Western America
Feb 18, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
The grossest type of choss? Its made of sea creature corpses and their poop
semi solidified into brittle poopified hazmat corpse stone.

Get back on some granite now

photo not found
Missing photo ID#290294


Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 18, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
McHale's! Re your post & my post & your question:

McHales! Re your mention:
I forget the name of this intrepid climber, but he was the founder of Pipestone Mountaineering in Missoula, MT.



From Fritz!
Is that the near-legendary Jim Wilson?

Then your confused answer? (I did not answer your first question clearly)


You mean the Stoney Point Jim Wilson? That's not him and his name was not Jim Wilson. I mean Jim Wilson's name was Jim Wilson, but not this guy. I forget this guy's name, but it wasn't Jim Wilson. If it was Jim Wilson he would have recognized me as a Stoney Point guy but he didn't.

I doubt if the Jim Wilson that started Pipestone was the Stoney Point Jim Wilson, since the Pipestone founder (who is another Jim Wilson) grew up north of Butte and first started a climbing shop there, before expanding to Missoula. I'm sure of his name, since I worked with him as a outdoor gear sales-rep from day one. He sold the store a few years back to a Bozeman-based Nabob, who closed it in the 2008 recession.

Back to Choss. Much less confusing!

South side of Mt. Heyburn Sawtooth Range Idaho.  All decomposing grani...
South side of Mt. Heyburn Sawtooth Range Idaho. All decomposing granite, or sand lightly covering decomposing granite.
Credit: Fritz

Makes for quick descents!
Heidi glissading sand.  Only tricky places were when the sand was too-...
Heidi glissading sand. Only tricky places were when the sand was too-light a covering over rock.
Credit: Fritz
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
kpinwalla2 as per your remark:
Choss climbing might really take off if belayers resembled gladiators....

Credit: Plaidman
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 12:41pm PT


Fortunately bright orange is easy to find if the choss collapses on you and we have to start digging.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
I doubt if the Jim Wilson that started Pipestone was the Stoney Point Jim Wilson, since the Pipestone founder (who is another Jim Wilson) grew up north of Butte and first started a climbing shop there, before expanding to Missoula. I'm sure of his name, since I worked with him as a outdoor gear sales-rep from day one. He sold the store a few years back to a Bozeman-based Nabob, who closed it in the 2008 recession.


Fritz, Wow! That would be a coincidence. It sure doesn't ring the bells it should, but I look for first signs of dementia, in myself and others! HaHa! That is challenging for climbers since there is already a high background level of the stuff.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 19, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Fortunately bright orange is easy to find if the choss collapses on you and we have to start digging.

With picks and shovels? Use dynamite. It's faster.
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 19, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
Skip following "Trundle Trophy", Riverside Quarry.

Credit: MisterE

They took all of the limestone, and this is what is left.

Doesn't get much chossier than a fractured, blown-out cliff!

Disclaimer: The climbing is actually really good, if you can ignore the glue...
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
I'm looking at a lot of the photos on this thread, and to me, many of them feature rock that falls far below my standard for choss. But just how does one quantify "chossiness"? I'd suggest using the average density, as measured by combined length of cracks (fractures) per area of rock. So if you took a square meter of rock surface and measured the length of all of the cracks in that square meter and got 1 meter of fractures, that would not be so chossy as compared to say 5 or 6 meters of fractures. By this criteria, the rock in the photo below blows away most anything I've seen on here. Basically any piece of rock will move if a bit of force is applied to it - truly world class choss...
High above the Columbia....
High above the Columbia....
Credit: kpinwalla2
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
goodly metrics to work with there!








Separately, I think I want to climb in Texas Canyon.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 22, 2013 - 02:13am PT
Going to Pinnacles for the next two days.....enough said
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 22, 2013 - 09:20am PT
^^^Say no more. Wink wink nudge nudge.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 22, 2013 - 10:10am PT
Climbing into a sea of choss
Getting up the 96 foot band
Getting up the 96 foot band
Credit: Plaidman

The sea of choss is on this:
Credit: Plaidman
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Feb 22, 2013 - 10:29am PT
Gotta love Columbia River basalt entablature - that columnar stuff is for choss-avoiding wimps. You're lucky over there on the west side, you have all that moss to hold it in place... Here's a shot of some REAL climbers braving the Łber-chossy basalt entablature of Wallula Gap.
Choss-fearing predators dare not follow...
Choss-fearing predators dare not follow...
Credit: kpinwalla2
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 22, 2013 - 10:57am PT
Munge- I'll take you to Texas Canyon.. the boy is done with that pile and there's some newly bolted crumble-fests to be sent.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
sounds fun! Let's target some time in Autumn/ or sooner if I visit the rents in so cal?

mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Feb 24, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
We introduced Briham to some excellent Pinnacles choss on Saturday (after he did some of it's better routes on Friday). The only problem is - he's got the photos.

Post up a few Brian.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:07am PT
Get on FB already Brad. lol I saw some already. He actually sounded like he's warming up to the place, which makes no sense if you put him on The Snail. really?
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:10am PT
We introduced Briham to some excellent Pinnacles choss on Saturday (after he did some of it's better routes on Friday). The only problem is - he's got the photos.

Post up a few Brian.

Chossville
Chossville
Credit: briham89
The Snail 5.7R
The Snail 5.7R
Credit: briham89
The "I didn't die" look
The "I didn't die" look
Credit: briham89

I have to say, after this trip I am more excited to come back...the power of choss has compelled me after all.

He actually sounded like he's warming up to the place, which makes no sense if you put him on The Snail. really?

The snail was definitely not the driving force behind this paradigm shift haha
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:12am PT
couldn't have been Needles Eye, was it? OMG, chossville for sure.

briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:19am PT
No, did 5 or 6 good routes on discovery wall, and one ok route on the frog.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:48am PT
good deal. that's how the cults pull you in. first the good climbs, then the crappy ones with stories of stance and drilling, bravery and boldness, but in the end you're drinking light beer in the shade of some oatmeal pasted adobe mud brick piece of a climb. It's not too late to turn back. ;)
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:50am PT
Yes, it is too late to turn back, he got the guidebook.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:55am PT
A guide book to choss? Wouldn't that be like a guide book to sand castles
built at low tide?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 01:22am PT
lol, nice Reilly




oh no, mtnyoung, not good, not good at all.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:10am PT
There should be a book about choss climbing. A guide to the fractured areas. Chapter 1: techniques for cranking on loose blocks. (a) always prepare to shift weight since any hold could blow. (b) if you do pull off a big hold, try not to throw it at your belayer as you fall. (I did this once) Chapter 2. The use of ice climbing gear in soft sandstone. Chapter 3. The ethics of removing loose rock in traditional choss areas. It just needs an expert and a book and it becomes a legitimate part of climbing.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:43am PT
It just needs an expert and a book and it becomes a legitimate part of climbing.

LOL! O.K. who is going to step up to the plate and become the expert? Where are we going to find someone to publish such a book? Not that it should not be written..... I'm just say'in

Plaid
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:05am PT
"And so castles made of sand,
Fall to the sea,
Eventually."
-Jimi


Disclaimer, I live for choss!
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:30am PT
I don't wanna be the expert, I'm tryin' to quit.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:46am PT
I'm tryin' to quit.

Don the only thing to cure what you got is rehab or a full frontal lobotomy.

I'm getting mine next week. Then I'll be good as new and good for nothing.
Just like before but different.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Trephanation by choss rock fall?
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
"Castles Made of Sand."
Hey, that's a route at the Pinns! Gosh, darn good name, I'd say ...
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 25, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
The Power of the Choss
The Power of the Choss
Credit: Don Paul
abrams

Sport climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
"The Mud Volcano rises a breathtaking 15 meters
above it's surroundings on the coast between Cartegena
and Santa Marta. At an estimated 30 meters above sea level
it is the country's highest mud volcano. As a climber it was a must do.
After acclimatizing by climbing the "Via Madera", I attempted to open a
new route on its muddy and treacherous seaward face."

"With a sharp stick and a butterfly knife I attacked the technical dirt
and successfully climbed half the route before my photographer reported
"I think they want you to come down from there"..."

(picture)
http://www.restlessadventurer.net/travel/trips/colombia2005/graphics/technical_dirt_climb.jpg

(scroll to 20 MAR )
http://www.restlessadventurer.net/travel/trips/colombia2005/colombia_1.php
fgw

climber
portland, or
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
a common theme here?
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
Summit Spire, KOFAs
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Tom Scott (see 'um?) leading free past the old Summit Spire Baxter/Karlstrom aid line...loose and poorly protected
Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Ok, a little closer shot

Credit: Anxious Melancholy
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
I have been chuckling over this genius thread title since you started it. It is like the one-liner headlines you read in "The Onion."
Personally the closest I get to choss is my cat's litter box - I am sticking with nice solid, dependable Gunks conglomerate for now ;)
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
Don the only thing to cure what you got is rehab or a full frontal lobotomy.

I'm getting mine next week. Then I'll be good as new and good for nothing.
Just like before but different.

Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 26, 2013 - 12:30am PT
AHHHHH! J. Frank Parnell. Apt description of my condition if I say so myself.
And I say it a lot.

MisterE, you got me pegged...... but not pigeon holed
What can I say.... I am a goof ball.
What can I say.... I am a goof ball.
Credit: Plaidman

This is the summit photo after finishing solo FA of "Brother Mike" on The Steeple.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/brother-mike/107795096
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 01:17am PT
best thread title EVAR! ;)

To be honest, I was thinking of the movie the Exorcist, where the priest is trying to expell the demon. "The power of christ compels you..." repeated like three or four times.







Anxious, OMG, I threw up in my mouth a little. Loooooose and BIG!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:19am PT
Plaid, is that the look you give the po-po man when he stops you for erratic
driving when you were going through a road cut and ogling the choss?

ps
We both know you totally stole that pose from Benny Hill.
But you do it justice.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 01:21am PT
Something like this happened to me at Pinnacles the other day...


http://youtu.be/vX3wNfw3iYY


They tried to get me to go to Yosemite. I wasn't opposed, but the power of the choss compels me.

One more weekend at Pinns, then I think it's game time for limestone, Table Mtn and Granite.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:24am PT
Reilly that look usually gets me a ride in the squad car back to the state hospital.

It is really hard to pick out the best line when you are doin' 70+ mph up and down I-84. I always have to remind myself that I could probably get a better look if I just pulled over.

Hell I can see the WHOLE Columbia River Gorge if I just close my eyes. Got the image burned into the back of my brain.
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:44am PT
Munge, talk about a catch in the throat, Tom was breaking off flakes here and there, clipped this old 1/4 incher, (just above where the picture was taken) then ran it out a ways. He paused a bit, tried to finagle some wireds, then committed. About a dozen feet further his right foot popped off a crumbling flake and he was left hanging from looseness.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 01:49am PT
WOOF!


Then what happened? Recovered and sent? Back down?
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Munge
He SENT! Shook, rattled and rolled in best rocker style.

And then it rained.
Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
Credit: Reeotch
Credit: Reeotch
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
Reeotch, is that a slab sand surfing launch pad, or a boulder problem?
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 26, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
Reeotch isn't that The Cobra at Fisher Towers?

Nope. Answered my own question.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-cobra/105716892

Looks like Indian Creek though.
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 26, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
After two days of climbin' and 'splorin' with the girl, we are choss-weary.

This too shall pass, and will probably be re-chopsyched in a few days.
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Feb 26, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Yep, Indian Creek, by an out of the way campsite out near technicolor wall.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
Wow I thought we just made this up but people already have a choss boss competition and everything. Maybe SLIGHTLY more interesting than your average rock gym comp?
SicMic

climber
two miles from Eldorado
Feb 27, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
As promised: the ChossWand.

Rotwand
Rotwand
Credit: SicMic

Good times on bad rock.
Good times on bad rock.
Credit: SicMic
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 27, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
Well Mic I guess there's really no point wearing a rope. All you're going to do is damage the choss when you fall and the gear placement falls apart.
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Feb 27, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Thanks Mic! Now THAT"S some quality choss. Here's more choss porn - we got miles of this stuff in eastern WA, and to make things even more interesting, the grass below is full of rattlesnakes.
Credit: kpinwalla2
dave729

Trad climber
Western America
Feb 27, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
kpinwalla2 - seen what that stuff does to ropes and people. To scary for a spoiled Sierra punk.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
kpinwalla,

How do you bolt in that blocky eastern WA stuff?

Is there a substrate you eventually get to that is stable?

Captain...or Skully

climber
Feb 27, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
He wishes...We have a big band of that stuff just down from the good stuff, local. I'll go take a couple pics of this bolted line through it. I doubt it's been climbed since it was put up. Much, anyway. Looks like you could pull blocks at those bolts.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 28, 2013 - 12:36am PT
How do you bolt in that blocky eastern WA stuff?

Climb it enough and eventually you get to something solid. It makes is kinda interesting.

Plaid
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 28, 2013 - 01:09am PT
ATTN. Choss Lovers.
Coming to a Loews Hardward Store near you soon.
Ivan Green's Deluxe
Gardening Tool Set.
The KIT includes everything
needed to spruce up your local Choss crop.

Camo gloves NOT included!
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 28, 2013 - 10:10am PT
How do you bolt in that blocky eastern WA stuff?

http://www.fastener-warehouse.com/product-p/stb50100.htm
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 28, 2013 - 10:21am PT
Pics from New Jack City this weekend.

Some friends climbed the Crooked Dick Spire (left of the climber) a couple weeks ago and had some incidental toaster-sized footholds crumble out from under them on lead. Gotta keep those lazy belayers on their feet ya know.

Crooked Dick and Hidden Tower
Crooked Dick and Hidden Tower
Credit: justthemaid

I never quite realized the "quality" of choss there until we did some 'splorin' off the well beaten routes. It's amazing the whole place doesn't just fall down BTW.

We TR'd this unclimbed 5.9 with high hopes of new chossaneering, but scuttled the proj. when no solid rock was found and we decided putting up a noob death-route was a waste of time. The dark-colored shell is basically adhered by a talc#m-mustard plaster underlayment. Kinda like climbing your kid's sand and macaroni project.

Credit: justthemaid

Did some hiking on the outer rim. Choss, choss and more choss.


Credit: justthemaid


The hills have eyes.
The hills have eyes.
Credit: justthemaid
Chip C. Chipperson

Sport climber
Chippewall, ME
Feb 28, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Hey there, say...


How does your choss grow? Don't you have to clip the branches of a rose bush to make beautiful flowers?
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 1, 2013 - 01:34am PT
How do you bolt in that blocky eastern WA stuff?

We clean off all the stuff that pulls off easily and then try to find a chunk that sounds reasonably solid when you beat on it with a hammer - but there are no guarantees...
Credit: kpinwalla2
Ŗ ő ō T « H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Mar 1, 2013 - 02:17am PT
On one of the many dirt roads NE of (395) Mammoth there is a hillside of tall crumbly towers, and actually white like chalk-board chalk. I had scoped it out once, but got lost when I went back later. My car is a little more reliable now, so I'm hoping to go out there again if the weather holds.
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 1, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Bring the appropriate tools, B.

Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 1, 2013 - 11:14am PT
New variation on St. Peter's Dome. I call it Plaidman's Fally.
Spelled correctly.....there is a back story
Start of Plaidman's Fally
Start of Plaidman's Fally
Credit: Plaidman
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Plaidman,

I look at that and realize I am not worthy.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
The beauty of choss is that it is the great equalizer. Qoute me on that.

Even on 5.1, you can have such an adventure!
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 1, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
The beauty of choss is that it is the great equalizer. Qoute me on that.

Even on 5.1, you can have such an adventure!

That is SO true! I've watched hyper-fit studly types - especially those that spend too much time in the gym, completely freak out on easy choss.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 1, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
Qoute me on that.

Munge. Consider yourself quoted.


Plaid
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 1, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
I look at that and realize I am not worthy.

Yup^^^Plaidman does seem to have cornered the market on the really scary stuff. I'm thinking of sending him some of those Polish grass screws for his birthday.

It rarely rains here, so us desert rats don't really get the opportunity to hone our moss-skills.


Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 1, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
Justthemaid is that Plaidman or Tradman?

If it is the former I could use those Polish Grass Screws before Nov. 4th

I have a project in mind......

Do they look like this? I know some moss. Some of my best friends are moss.
Credit: Plaidman
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 1, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
Typo.. I fixed it. that was at you Plaid.

Edit to add.. it will be interesting to see how well those screws hold in a tuft of grass anchored only in mud and gravel. Those Pollacks are totally nuts BTW.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:24am PT
Maybe Poles and the Scottish folk are related somehow?

Maybe not.

If I want to get my blood up when climbing choss, ice, or moss
I scream ..... WILLIAM WALLACE!.....at the top of my lungs

It gets the job done! Fight for The Freedom to climb CHOSS!

Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:26am PT
Plaid, you & I need to visit Leslie Gulch. Bring all the beaky things you can carry. Big, small, bring them all.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:32am PT
We gonna climb something like this?
Any FA's to be had?
Credit: Plaidman
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:39am PT
That red screw is what you're going to use for gear? Cool this is a whole area of climbing I don't know much about. I was half joking before, about using ice climbing gear in soft rock. I haven't climbed on the same kind of choss as you guys do. I thought of it in terms of 4th class climbing never did a hard choss route. In fact its hard to imagine climbing harder than 5.8 on holds that might break under body weight.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:55am PT
Don the above photo is of volcanic tuff similar to Smith Rock. The first time I did a trad route there I almost freaked cause it looked like mud.....
Well it is just PETRIFIED mud!

Then there is the basalt choss in the Columbia River Gorge. Here is another shot of Plaidman's Fally
Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:56am PT
Lots of cool FA's there, man. Serious bidness.
I'm game. Oh there's choss. Oh yes.
Bring yer armor, too.

Call me (BK Bland) in boise & leave a message or pm
skullyambroATgmailDOTcom, dig it.
It's just a couple hours from my secret world headquarters. Leslie is.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:00am PT
O.K. Captain...or Skully let's make a play date.

I have got to get out.

Plaid
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:00am PT
Plaidman, get help while you still can!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:05am PT
I am beyond help. Feeling good...... hold on ....let me feel myself.

Yep! Feel good!

Plaid
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:11am PT
HaHaHaHa! OK, that's all that matters! :-)
Ya know, the last time I drove by Beacon Rock there was this volcanoe
spewing crap over 6 states. That was an epic drive. I got two speeding
tickets that day - fooking tools had no sense of reality.

Trivia note: I've a FA on the erstwhile Mt St Helens that will never be repeated!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:14am PT
Ya know I took some of that ash back to Colorado with me after Mt. St. Helens blew up and sold it for money......fools. They didn't know that they were shoveling it up with front end loaders in places like Yakima and Spokane WA.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:22am PT
I coulda given you some from my air filter!
Did ya sell it as virgin or blown once?
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:31am PT
We people need help!


And by that, I mean a belayer that will put up with more than most...

not the couch-kind.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:35am PT
It sounds like maybe a couple monkeys can go get scared in the weirdest places.
Woot! We may need more beer. or appropriate malt liquors.
And band aids. Lotsa those.

Mungie, Post Falls is like 600 miles away. That's the long way. It's the only way, too. :-(
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2013 - 01:37am PT
I'll be in CDA in couple weeks. Mostly visiting fam, but if either of you guys are up that way, I can sneak over to Post Falls for half a day. Need to know whether to bring shoes and stuff, so ping on FB or here.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:42am PT
It took me reading this whole list to finally figure out you would be in Coeur d'Alene Idaho

Here is the list: web link at:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CDA

CDA or Cda may refer to:
[edit]Associations

Club de Deportes Antofagasta, is a Chilean football club based in the city of Antofagasta.
Chinese Daoist Association
[edit]Industry organisations
Canadian Dental Association, an association of dentists in Canada
Canadian Dinghy Association
College Democrats of America, the national organization that oversees the direction and day-to-day management of 1300 College Democrats chapters around the country
[edit]Political parties and lobbying groups
Christian Democratic Alliance (South Africa), political party
Christian Democratic Appeal, a political party of the Netherlands
Conservative Democratic Alliance, a United Kingdom pressure group
[edit]Companies

Caran d'Ache (company), a famous Swiss fine arts products company.
[edit]Computing

".cda", a filename extension for a Compact Disc Audio track
Cellular Digital Accessory, a means to identify the software version of a mobile phone
Clinical Document Architecture, an HL7 authored health care documentation standard
Compress Da Audio, one of the earliest MP3 warez groups
Red Book (audio CD standard), Compact Disc Audio, the standard format for a CD
[edit]Education

Central Delta Academy, a private school in Mississippi
Certified Dental Assistant, A dental assistant that is certified in the United States.
Coram Deo Academy, a small private Christian school in Flower Mound, Texas
Child Development Academy, Daycare for Marshall University in Huntington, WV.
[edit]Government agencies

Capital Development Authority, Islamabad, Pakistan
Combined Development Agency, a uranium purchasing authority run by the US and UK government from 1948
[edit]In fiction

Child Detection Agency, a fictional agency in the animated world of Pixar's Monsters, Inc.
[edit]Laws

Crime and Disorder Act 1998 (c.37)
Communications Decency Act, a US law found partially unconstitutional
Confidential disclosure agreement
Criminal defense attorney
Child Development Associate, the CDA Credential awarded to those in the Early Care & Education by The Council for Professional Recognition to work with Infants, Toddlers, or Preschoolers
[edit]Science

Cda, the abbreviation for the orchid genus Cochlioda
Clean Dry Air, air that has been filtered and dehumidified to remove particulates and moisture so that it can be safely used in pneumatic devices or systems
Continuous Descent Approach is an aircraft approach method designed to reduce fuel burn and noise
The Cosmic Dust Analyser in the Cassini-Huygens spacecraft
[edit]Chemistry
Chiral derivatizing agent, a type of chemical designed to react with enantiomers to indicate the enantiopurity
Completely denatured alcohol, the most heavily denatured alcohol
Controlled Droplet Application: a concept in pesticide application
[edit]Medicine
Chlorproguanil hydrochloride-dapsone-artesunate, an antimalarial drug that entered Phase III clinical trials in 2006
Clinical Document Architecture, part of the Health Level 7 standard
Congenital Developmental Abnormality/Abnormalities
Congenital Dyserythropoietic Anemia, a rare hematologic blood condition
Cytidine deaminase, an enzyme
[edit]Other

Coeur d'Alene (disambiguation), multiple meanings
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:46am PT
That's a long road away, man. Choss can be found Much closer to home, though invites are always a good groove. 'Gracias.
Leslie Gulch calls you, man. Plaidman. That place needs some color.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:47am PT
When we going? send email at scott.k.peterson@gmail.com

We will work out the details. I really need a road trip.

Plaid
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 2, 2013 - 10:56am PT
I'm thinking DaBrim needs to come out with an armored option for deflecting rocks off the belayer.


@Don:

That red screw is what you're going to use for gear? Cool this is a whole area of climbing I don't know much about...


That's a whole area of climbing you should be happy you don't know anything about. Poles drive those screws into frozen clumps of grass growing out of cliffs for protection... of course the real adventure starts once the cliff thaws out. We'll let Plaidman get back to us on that experiment.

...In fact its hard to imagine climbing harder than 5.8 on holds that might break under body weight.


Er.. there's a whole guidebook dedicated to them.

Credit: justthemaid



kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 2, 2013 - 11:47am PT
Plaidman's Fally looks awesome - the work of a true chossmeister! Here's some more great Columbia Valley Basalt choss - but these are dikes, not flows, so the small irregular columns are oriented horizontally, not vertically. The dikes are somewhat more resistant to weathering than the flows they intrude, so after millions of years of erosion, they end up sticking out of the mountainside like huge fins. To bolt them, we use a 12 ft. long bit and drill all they way through the fin and place a 12" diameter washer and nut on that side so it won't pull through the choss ;-).
The Black Tooth
The Black Tooth
Credit: kpinwalla2
Credit: kpinwalla2
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
To bolt them, we use a 12 ft. long bit and drill all they way through the fin and place a 12" diameter washer and nut on that side so it won't pull through the choss ;-).
That is sick!!!!!

When can I meet you to get on that stuff!

Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Nobody asked for the back story on Plaidman's Fally.
So here it is anyway.....

I started to hike up to the saddle on St. Peterís Dome on Oct. 12th 2012. The previous time I hiked in this area I ended up on the wrong side of the ravine and was unable to cross over to the east side. I knew this was an obstacle that I needed to avoid. I had my ice ax and a load of gear to stash up on top today. My pack was heavy with pitons and other necessary items that would be needed for the climb.

I ambled my way through the knee deep ferns and other brush. It was now fall so the leaves had started to drop off the trees and the thinning forest was easier to navigate. One of the difficult things in navigation here in the western gorge is the thickness of the undergrowth and the overgrowth; simply just all things growing. This area of the Columbia river Gorge gets any where from 90 to 120 of inches of rain per year and is a temperate rain forest.

I havenít seen my feet in over an hour and I am worried about feral anacondas. There arenít any here but there are frogs in abundance and snakes. Mostly garter snakes, which I have seen a few. But there are other varieties that I was unaware of. Rattlesnakes I knew were in the eastern Gorge. What we call a bull snake is more properly called a gopher snake. Here in the rain forest we donít have to worry about them. There are scorpions though. I have only seen one dead scorpion, on a ledge at Beacon Rock while climbing, but they are here and hide mostly under the rocks and moss.

I had a general idea of where to go, but the forest would obscure the view of the dome and the perspective would change as I moved up. There are several buttresses and the cliff faces would blend together. I wondered if I was going the right way. Moving up the right side of the ravine I got as high as I could above the alder grove that covered the slide that had happened 10 years ago. The alder is thick and I was trying to find the thinnest section to get from one side to the other. I pushed my way through the tangled mass of alder growth and found the deep ravine that needed to be crossed. The bank was 30 feet tall, under cut by the course of the steam and way too steep to get down. Turning left I moved 300 feet downhill and found an acceptable crossing. After making the crossing of the stream I moved up the opposite bank.

The hiking wasnít too steep here and the forest was thick again with moss and old growth fir. I moved toward the dome and found the talus slope. This slope of discarded rock that has sloughed off the dome was loose but not overly to cause much concern. Moving as quickly as I could I moved up through the talus and gained the saddle and dumped my pack of supplies. I found a niche near the base of Little St. Peterís Dome. This feature is a spire on the saddle that I had hoped to climb. After placing moss and leaves and sticks to mask my deposit of gear I turned to return from whence I came. I was fastly running out of daylight. I would return tomorrow with the crew to start the assault on St. Peterís Dome.

I had my wife, The Adventure Queen, and my climbing partner, Rick McDonald, †the next day. We were loaded down with water and the rest of the supplies, which consisted of ropes and bivy gear. We planned on spending the night and starting the climb the next day. We moved fairly quickly and as we proceeded I fixed ropes on the steeper sections. I had given Ronda and Rick rope ascenders to assist with the trudge up the approach. Upon arriving at the top of the talus slope we set up camp at the south end of the saddle and slept well in our moss covered sleeping area.

We awoke to fog and had some trouble deciding where to start up to get into Furrers Cave. I finally decided to start up and was pleasantly surprised to see that I picked the right spot. I couldnít believe that the old timers used to solo unroped up to the cave. I found it a bit unnerving not knowing what was loose and what would hold. I mixed up the climbing with a little aid and some free climbing. When I got to the cave I built and anchor and fixed the rope for Rick to ascend.

We realized that the bolted anchor would probably need to be replaced, so had the correct gear to replace it. What we found were two old rusty bolts. One was ľ inch with a home made hanger on it and the other bolt wasnít much better. It was a ⅜ inch bolt with the same kind of home made steel hanger. It didnít give us much confidence. The hardware we ended up replacing the bolts was Ĺ inch by 4 Ĺ inch stainless bolts with stainless steel hangers. It took us about 4 hours to hand drill these bolts. But now we could climb with confidence knowing the belay was in good rock with quality gear.

Rick and Ronda had to leave because they were working the next day. I stayed and slept at the bivy on the saddle, woke up the next day and tried to solo aid up the first pitch. I only made it up to the first fixed piton before I realized that I was not willing to go much higher alone. Intimidated and unhappy about the lack of progress I left to come back with my partner and try again next weekend.

Rick and I started up on Friday evening the next week, slept at the saddle bivy and made it up to our high point from the weekend before the next morning. I was ready now to tackle the 96 foot band. I planned on replacing a bolt and hanger that I could see above my high point. It was another of those terrible rusty ľ inch bolts. We had a secret weapon this trip though. A power drill. We had had enough of hand drilling. So upon getting to the accursed rusty blob I found a good spot a bit above it and put in a good Ĺ inch by 4 Ĺ inch bolt with a shiny stainless steel hanger. This one would hold a fall and keep me from hitting the ledge below.

I proceeded to nail pitons one after another. The route I was following had been climbed several times now by previous parties. There was little loose rock but the nailing was tricky. Mostly A2 I thought. I used mostly bird beaks, peckers, and another secret weapon, Toucan pitons. The Toucan pitons were the right tool. These pitons have long beaks and are down angled so they lodge deep into the cracks. They were the most solid piece of gear on the pitch.

I finally made it up about 80 feet when I came to an anchor that was just below the grassy ledge at the top of the 96 foot band. I saw that these bolts needed to be replace also so I put in two of †Ĺ inch by 4 Ĺ hardware that I had been using and fixed the rope to this anchor and retreated into the cave with Rick. I had taken me hours to do the pitch and I cleaned all the gear on rappel. We hunkered down for a nights rest to get going again in the morning.

We got up early and jugged the ropes to my high point. I had a lead up to the grassy ledge of about 16 feet. This was about 5.8 free climbing in a weird chimney kind of thing then after getting to the ledge the wall was rotten so I was unable to get any gear in until I traversed to the left. I got to a nice slab of rock and built a bomb proof anchor with pitons and nuts, brought up Rick and got ready for the next pitch.

I traversed left further along the ledge till I got to a bent piton and looked up. It was not really the feature I was looking for as the guide said this was a 5.8 chimney. It didnít look like a chimney to me but I was not willing to go any further to the left as the ledge ended and I could not see around the corner. So up I decided was the best choice. I started nailing a pencil thin crack with #1 bird beak pitons. When the crack was just about ended I had no choice but nail it one more time just above the last placement. To the left were hanging plates of chandelier looking like rock, just ready to come raining down upon me. There were no cracks to the right. So I nailed another piton above my last placement. I had a bad feeling about it, and low and behold I was right. As I pounded one more time the crack I was nailing expanded and the piton that my aiders were hung on, that I was standing in exploded and I was instantly airborne falling backwards through the air. I ended up, well not really up but upside down, hanging by one of the small #1 birds beak pitons.

Normally if I am not hurt, falling just makes me mad. So I checked myself out and let Rick know I was fine and got backup to my high point. Out came the hooks and I found small features to hook my way up and right then traversing left until I could get in a solid piece of gear. It was a Long Dong Lost Arrow piton and I was never so grateful to get that one in. I had a few free moves to make. Made a mistake by not un-clipping the last piece of gear I was aiding on, so in the middle of a free move I was stuck. I untangled the mess I had made without falling again and got to a stance just below the grassy slope above. Here I knew that the hardest move would be pulling myself up on this steep slope of moss, dirt and loose rock. I had another trick in my bag. Before I left the grassy ledge at the bent piton I had tied my moss ax to a tag line. This was my ace in the hole. I quickly brought up the tool and with it in my hand sunk it deep into the loamy moss covered incline. Up I went and practically ran up to the tree nearly 25 feet above me kicking steps as I proceeded.

Fixing the rope for Rick after attaching myself to the tree, I yelled ďOFF BELAYĒ. Now Rick followed up as the last rays of the sun disappeared from the sky. It hadnít seemed like it took that long but aid climbing can be tricky when it comes to time. It seems that time is standing still for the climber and is really racing by at screaming speed. As I sat there I thought that the name of the pitch I just had led should be called Plaidmanís Fally. Folly because I was off route and I fell while leading the pitch. So the spelling should be FALLY. I love playing with words.

We set up our bivy after Rick arrived at the tree. I had yelled down to him to leave the gear and we would clean it later. He said he was fine cleaning in the dark by headlamp. ďBesidesĒ he said ďWhat are we going to do with all the time we have on our hands.Ē I had hauled up our bivy gear and food. Now all we needed was a flat place to sleep. We dug out ledges with the moss ax and lined them with moss. After eating we settled down to sleep. He gave me his down vest and I gave him my wool socks. I didnít want my belayer to get cold feet.

I slept fairly well but Rick said he didnít sleep much. The sleep he did get was filled with sounds of me banging pitons. When he wasnít sleeping he was counting the 17 trains that blew their whistle at the railroad crossing nearly a mile away below us. The cliffs above and around St. Peterís Dome act as a natural amphitheater. I think it was really an eerie wild sound and filled the night.

We got up early and got started again. The slope above was peppered with loose blocks and moss covered ledges. There was nothing solid to place any protection. So this was a 200 foot runout scary loose lead. This was some of the loosest rock I had ever seen. I called it alpine choss at sub-alpine elevation.

I was unable to make it to the summit so I built an anchor on a tree and brought Rick up and let him get the last 50 foot lead to the summit. After he got there he brought me up. I was elated to gain this summit and to do it with my best friend was a real bonus. We signed the summit register and proceeded to rappel. This climb was the first objective in my 100 Days, 100 Miles, 100 Climbs project. I figured that I would get the hardest one out of the way and the others would be a cakewalk. I was almost right.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 2, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Kpin.. So that's what they use this for?:

Credit: justthemaid

Edit to add: Figured you'd post up about the Fally when you were darn well ready.. Great story.

PS: TRAPPED! I've got some major feline paralysis going on here. The Mewster normally hates everyone so I'm loath to disturb any lap-time bone she throws me.

PPS: I love that you have a "moss axe"

PPPS: What is fog? ;)

PPPSS: 100 days, 100 miles, 100 climbs sounds fun!

kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 2, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
Thanks for the trip report Plaidman! That's the real deal. Here's a shot of Cordwood Tower at The Dikes, so named because the columns are stacked like a wood pile - and fall apart almost as easily.
Credit: kpinwalla2
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 2, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Here's another photo of climbing the butt-end of columns on the side of a dike...
Doug Juers on the FA of Bachelor Party - he was married the following ...
Doug Juers on the FA of Bachelor Party - he was married the following day!
Credit: kpinwalla2

And here's a shot of a cliff along the Snake River near Lewiston Idaho where the columns curve from vertical to horizontal.

Credit: kpinwalla2
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 2, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
How does that qualify as 'choss'? ;-)

It looks a n00b's dream for learning 00 cam placements.
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 2, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
I think the cliff with the curved columns would almost certainly qualify as choss in most folk's view. The columns are narrow (less than 12" across) and not really connected to one another, so the outer layer can be dislodged with minimal effort.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 2, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Sweeet....

I think that's one of the coolest looking cliffs I've ever seen.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Mar 2, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
That is a sweet cliff. You can see both the top and bottom of the columns. That's real closure.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 3, 2013 - 12:35am PT
Here is a link to the radio interview that I did about the 100 Days, 100 Miles, 100 Climbs on our local PBS radio station:
http://www.opb.org/thinkoutloud/shows/100-climbs/

I documented the 100 Day, 100 Miles, 100 Climbs here on my blog.
Starting here on Day 1 -- http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2011/10/100_days_100_miles_100_climbs_1.html

Plaid
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2013 - 01:08am PT
great TR Plaidman!
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 3, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
Sport climbing is neither. Choss climbing is .... both!
ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Mar 4, 2013 - 05:14pm PT


I'd never believe it, but it's true...

Damn, I need some granite ;)

Cheers

LS
BMartin

Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
Mar 4, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
Credit: BMartin

Overhanging choss, Hyalite Canyon
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 4, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Well, frozen choss can be pretty good, actually.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 4, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Scott after reading some of your stories it makes me think you should go to South America. There's tons of mountain/jungle areas, big canyons with moss dripping off the rocks and rain every single afternoon for a couple of hours. Salto Angel in Venezuela is an example, just tons of crumbly rock and moss, leeches snakes and whatnot. There must be tons and tons of this kind of climbing, but people down there are just getting into the sport and this would not be their first idea.

Where I am in Colombia (note spelling please) is like that but flat. Here's a video of a mudslide on a road I've taken dozens and dozens of times. Its the only road to the uraba region, and 10 hours drive through the mountains from the nearest city, Medellin.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
holy crap, that's a lot of mud
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 5, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
@Don - I may be crazy but I don't like to get dirty. No mud for me. At least in those portions. Me like no snakes either. I hear you got BAD snakes and other nasty stuff down there....You should come up here....it's safer.

Fire Spire climbed in my 100 Days project.
Fire Spire climbed in my 100 Days project.
Credit: Plaidman

The Bump also climbed on the same day on day 40 or so in the 100 days ...
The Bump also climbed on the same day on day 40 or so in the 100 days project.
Credit: Plaidman

The Bump up close and personal.
The Bump up close and personal.
Credit: Plaidman

Plaid
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 5, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
Credit: Scott Thelen
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 5, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
Credit: kpinwalla2
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:38am PT
Apollo Column took a good fall on that one. Look close it is hard to p...
Apollo Column took a good fall on that one. Look close it is hard to pick out the column against the cliff face.
Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Just getting up to the saddle was a challenge. Moss Ax required.
Just getting up to the saddle was a challenge. Moss Ax required.
Credit: Plaidman

Another adventure in the 100 Days, 100 Miles, 100 Climbs saga.

Plaid



Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 01:56am PT
awesome
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 6, 2013 - 09:59am PT
So Plaidman, where are those cool choss towers? Looks like the stuff I see in the cliffs above I-84 while driving down the gorge towards PDX. Always wondered if anyone had scrambled up there to check them out. Also wondered whether you could actually climb them without trundling something the size of a washing machine onto the interstate below...
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Mar 6, 2013 - 11:41am PT
I liked that Knights Ferry action ladyscarlett. It sure helped me get over the norovirus. Can't wait for our next climbing trip.... should be good!

Dan sent me an email and said hey, btw. Guess the van busted my secret ident :-)

DMT
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 6, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
PLAIDMAN FOR PRESIDENT!

You gotta admit it has a nice ring to it.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
Kingdom Forlorn
Kingdom Forlorn
Credit: Matt Anderson
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 6, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
Reilly I'm crazy, not stupid. I gave up on polotics a long time ago. Even if your winning, at what cost to you and your family.. Besides I have a sorted past. Just look what I turned into. A climber.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 6, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
@Don HOLY CRAP!! This is a real place. Bryce Canyon Hoodos Utah at Twilight.
Credit: Plaidman

Can we climb that stuff! Not really can we climb it, but will they let us climb it? WOW!

Kingdom Forlorn. I thought it was a fantasy picture. That is CHOSS PORN!

Answered my own question:
Climbing the rocks and sliding on the slopes
is illegal and dangerous. As per http://www.nps.gov/brca/parknews/upload/2012-13_Winter_Hoodoo_web.pdf

The dream has ended :(
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
I think the ones that are in that pic would be watched like a hawk by the NPS rangers, and any that are oft photographed.

paging Dr. Van Belle, please report to the Chossoperating room, stat!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 6, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
^^^^Plaidman needs a frontal lobotomy! Emergency frontal lobotomy before he is a danger to himself and others. STAT MEANS HURRY UP!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 7, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
So Plaidman, where are those cool choss towers? Looks like the stuff I see in the cliffs above I-84 while driving down the gorge towards PDX.


Yep these be the ones...Just 6 miles east of The Dalles. They are fairly well away from I-84. No real chance of any one of the blocks making it that far...now one landing on your belayer may be another story.

Here is my story from Day 47 of the 100 Days saga:

Silverman sent me a message that he wanted to climb. I was going to take a rest day but I couldn't turn down a solid climbing partner. I called him right away and told him it was on. He didn't even know where we were going.

We met up for the drive out and I told him our objective. He was pleased as he had wanted to climb the spires we were headed toward. The Apocalypse Needles have at least 6 or more spires that I have had my eye on for a while. The Adventure Queen and I looked at doing Fire Spire but the approach was above her pay grade. She opted out.

Now Silverman was available and the weather looked reasonable. We arrived at the west end of the Apocalypse Needles at the railroad access road turn off, got on the game trails and headed up. I didn't know that the game trails were made by bighorn sheep until the Adventure Queen and I saw some on these trails a week ago.

Silverman and I arrived at The Bump and I racked up to lead the climb. There are 3 routes on this spire. I chose the easy 5.6 as I didn't know what the quality of the rock would be. It didn't look good but after climbing St. Peter's Dome I think I have been recalibrated. Most rock looks a lot better now.

I had to run it out a bit to get in some solid protection. My foot slipped a bit before I got high enough to get my piece of gear in. I held it together and got a #2 Camalot in and then a red 1.5 Totem Cam to back that up. Place early and often is the credo when lead climbing.

Now that those pieces were in I could really climb. I worked my way up past some dubious looking hanging blocks. I gingerly worked my feet up and got some really solid hand holds and continued up. I placed two pieces of gear, a blue offset nut and a blue .65 Totem Cam. Then I moved up to the bolt at the crux of the route. I moved up and clipped the bolt and now knew I was home free.

One more move and I was at the anchor. There were two bolts with hangers on either side of the summit block with a nest of webbing and cord wrapped around them and the summit block. The summit block was solid and on top there was a pile of fish and small rodent bones. This must be a feeding station for raptors. So climbers are not the only ones that like these places.

I brought up Silverman and we enjoyed the summit and he gave me a high five for the good lead. He was probably just glad I didn't pitch off before I got my first piece in. That was really the hardest part of the climb. The rock wasn't that great so we decided not to do any of the other routes. We rappelled off and packed up for the next spire.

We got to Fire Spire after making some sketchy moves on the approach. Silverman was worried that we would have to down climb this section. I told him we would build an anchor and rap off. Upon getting up to the headwall we were greeted by a welcome sight. Someone had placed a bolt and a piton as a rappel anchor already. We were overjoyed.

Now on to the objective. Silverman took the lead and placed several pieces of gear as he moved up. The route we took was 5.7 or A1 and the rock looked even better than The Bump. There were not as many loose blocks. Silverman placed one piton and stood in a sling to make the crux move. That was the A1 placement and seemed reasonable.

He made it to the summit easily and then stood up to touch the summit block. He then brought me up. I went up and went to stand on the block that Silverman had stood on to touch the summit block. Just as I did Silverman gave a whelp and told to not stand there, the block was moving. I moved off and down climbed quickly.

After I got down we signed the summit register. There was a Tupperware container that had a pad of paper, pencil and a snack size Snickers candy bar in it. We read that the last entry was January 28th in 2001. It was hard to believe that we were the first ones to climb this in the last ten years. There must have been other climbers since then.

We rappelled off the ropes that were slung around through a crack below the summit block, pulled our rope and made it back down to the rappel of the headwall to the bench below were we had started.

What an awesome day. Two spires for the 100 Days, 100 Miles, 100 Climbs project. Now the count stands at 56 out of 100. I climb on to the Next Adventure!

Plaid
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 7, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Credit: Don Paul

(previous formation is in upper left corner)
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
When Mother Nature gives you choss....
Credit: kpinwalla2

make choss-en-ade!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
Now that is Chossy!^^^^
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 9, 2013 - 12:58am PT
kpinwalla2 where the heck is that. Looks fun! We got to get out together sometime since we are in the same neck of the woods..... I personally am in the deeeeeep woods. Kinda like an ogre or hobbit. Maybe more like a dwarf cause of my little stature. 5' 7" and shrinking.

Plaid
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 01:02am PT
I feel out chossed. dang!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 9, 2013 - 01:07am PT
This thread is kinda like the Deadhead thread.
And like Garcia said,
"Not everyone likes licorice. But the people who like licorice reeeaaaallly like licorice."

For the record, the power of choss does not compel me but chunder on, my choss loving brothers and sisters.


edit: what about those dirt towers near Grand Junction where Pete Takeda climbed with ice axes and rebar. Now that dude was compelled by the chawse.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 01:22am PT


The ultimate choss climb in the West
Michelle

Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Mar 9, 2013 - 03:20am PT
Now that's one pile if choss! 108?
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 9, 2013 - 09:59am PT
I think the choss climb of all time is The Great White Fright. Where those guys climbed the White Cliffs of Dover with ice axes. It used to be on Youtube. Now the only way to get it is via the DVD. The only problem is that it is in a UK digital format which the U.S. DVD players don't use. I tried to order the DVD for the Mazama library. We had to cancel our order. So no choss porn. DAMN IT!

It is a real shame cause that was one scary choss filled adventure.
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 10, 2013 - 11:39am PT
kpinwalla2 where the heck is that. Looks fun! We got to get out together sometime since we are in the same neck of the woods..... I personally am in the deeeeeep woods. Kinda like an ogre or hobbit. Maybe more like a dwarf cause of my little stature. 5' 7" and shrinking.

"That" is at The Dikes. Website here:

http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing/dikesguide.html

Let me know if you're ever up in my neck of the deep woods. There's also non-choss climbing available (I know, boooooring!) at Spring Mountain. Ogre, dwarf, hobbit, elf are all OK - but no balrogs, please.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Mar 10, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
A few from around CA

Hwy 4
Hwy 4
Credit: mrtropy

Hwy 4
Hwy 4
Credit: mrtropy

Near Jackson
Near Jackson
Credit: mrtropy

Pinnacles-No Country for Old Men
Pinnacles-No Country for Old Men
Credit: mrtropy
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 10, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Jeff, Have you climbed at true value?
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Mar 10, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
Yes, if it the one across the river near the bridge. I think I ran into a couple of buddies of yours. Every couple of years I do one of the easier climbs there. I would like to explore the area more. I have skied around Tyron Peak and I think I have seen the basalt, I have heard that Henry Peak has some basalt too.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 11, 2013 - 12:32am PT
kpinwalla2 been meaning to get out the Spring Mountain. I'll let you know before I get there so you can clear out the weak stomached.

I've been known to have a foul mouth too. So ear plugs may be required.....I'll try to be on my best behavior.

Plaid
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 11, 2013 - 12:46am PT
Plaidman, eat yer heart out! I'm going' to Choss Heaven - the Dolomiti! Where it all started.
I'm gonna do Il Campanile Basso di Brenta which was first climbed in 1899! 5.8 Choss in
street shoes with hemp ropes and little else. Check out the Grossman thread:
Great Pioneers of the Eastern Alps.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 11, 2013 - 09:39am PT
Reilly concider heart eatten. Damn you man!

Got karma?
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 11, 2013 - 10:30am PT
Credit: StahlBro
fgw

climber
portland, or
Mar 11, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
Really enjoyed the article in the Mazama annual Plaidman. Makes me want to go back - something about the smell of Gorge moss...smells like adventure. Was craning my neck (again) yesterday looking at those piles...I mean towers above 84 just east of the dalles. Look nice.
John Leary photo 2008.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 12, 2013 - 12:34am PT
Thx John. I had fun writing that story up.

That picture was from Radek's scent via his new line on St. Peter's Dome with his wife belaying.

TR here:http://www.summitpost.org/st-peters-dome/401215

His account of pulling up onto the mossy blocks at top of the 96 foot band, to the ledge was what inspired me to bring the moss ax to assist in making that move. The heck with a hook. I'll take a moss ax any day. Here is what one looks like.....

Plaid
Credit: Plaidman
Credit: Plaidman
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Mar 13, 2013 - 01:35am PT
And my kids:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2090443/Choss-Indoctrination-pt-1

Charles
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 13, 2013 - 02:03am PT
Don't do this to perfectly good kids. Choss is not a life style I would sign anyone up for.

Plaid
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 13, 2013 - 09:43am PT
Friends don't let friends choose choss. Choss isn't a choice.. it's a lifestyle you learn to lovingly embrace when every hunk of rock within 100 miles is crumbling POS and your love of climbing outweighs your fear of headwounds.

Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 13, 2013 - 10:29am PT
@justthemaid Ode de Choss. Someone should put music to that.... maybe with kazoos and maracas.

Andy KP

climber
Mar 13, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
Two choss belays from the Eiger North face (Russian route)
Eiger belay  <br/>
Eiger belay

Credit: Andy KP
Credit: Andy KP

some more pics here http://www.flickr.com/photos/andykirkpatrick/
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Mar 13, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
THOSE IS TOTEMS!!!! I would recognize them anywhere. They work in choss too!
Nice job Andy.

Plaid
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 14, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
Plaidman, how's yer Chinese? I think I found your Promised Land.

1000 650'-1000' CHOSS TOWERS!!!!!!!!

Zhangjiajie National Forest - it's a forest all right!
Obviously, I did not take this.  Ain't been to China. <br/>
Close, I could...
Obviously, I did not take this. Ain't been to China.
Close, I could see it, but didn't set foot.
Credit: Reilly

I figger it would take you about three years to work yer way
through these at one a day.
craig mo

Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
Mar 14, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Credit: craig mo
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 14, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Credit: Don Paul
MisterE

Social climber
Apr 8, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
Credit: MisterE
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Apr 9, 2013 - 12:15am PT
I thought maybe the choss thread was dead.....
Not so.

CHOSS LIVES! LONG LIVE CHOSS!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 12:19am PT
Here here long live the choss!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
http://vimeo.com/64126472#

Free climbing the Finger of Fate. Sounds like homey felt compelled.
MisterE

Social climber
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Bowl 'O Choss, aka Devil's Punchbowl:

Questionable sandstone and mandatory run-outs? Check:

Credit: MisterE

Sketchy gear? Check:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#301006

Old bolts and home-made hangers? Check:

Credit: MisterE

No chalk? Check.

Funnest day in ages, going back next weekend.



justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Apr 29, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
Munge....




Plaid...



guess what I got today...


































Credit: justthemaid



'neener'


'neener'


:)


crunch

Social climber
CO
Apr 29, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
I "heart" the licence plate! Woohoo.

Choss!
Choss!
Credit: crunch

Ha ha ha!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Apr 30, 2013 - 12:01am PT
Crunch...It looks like you are standing inside one of those holes kids dig in the sand at the beach.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 12:10am PT
worthy!
allapah

climber
Apr 30, 2013 - 12:53am PT
to be reconsidering my choss compulsion
Credit: allapah

http://kigsblog-allapa.blogspot.com
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
May 3, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
@Maid - Maybe if i hurry i can get the Oregon one.
They should just give it me because i love choss so much.

Plaid
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
May 4, 2013 - 12:44am PT
You know Crunch, I've got a stash of some real nice Jurassic Wingate things that are tall and virginal, some of the poorest cemented Jwg I've known, and you probably wouldn't even be interested if I were to cut you in, would you? You really do have a dirt addiction, don't you?

Thank you for normalizing my obsession with good old loose quartz sandstones. Seriously, I feel much better about these, my chosspiles of a more standard fare:
Credit: thebravecowboy

Credit: thebravecowboy

photo not found
Missing photo ID#301634
Ŗ ő ō T « H

Social climber
May 4, 2013 - 01:03am PT
Credit: Ŗ ő ō T « H
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
May 4, 2013 - 01:30am PT
This has to be my favorite choss climb yet. On sight lead ground up of "Into The Mystic". I had a drill but wouldn't use it till I got to the top of the pitch. My wife said there were piles of crap coming out of that chimney/stream vent hole. She said that she almost vetoed the climb. She didn't relieve that her vote didn't count. My blood was up. I had to finish it and find out what was up this vertical cave.

Plaid
Plaidman entering into the void
Plaidman entering into the void
Credit: Plaidman
Half in half out. This where the fun begins.
Half in half out. This where the fun begins.
Credit: Plaidman
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 4, 2013 - 01:36am PT
So, Your Plaidness, kindly elucidate us: is that truly the entrance to Mordor?
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
May 4, 2013 - 01:48am PT
It's cleaned up and it doesn't have a secret door or anything. Anyone with the will to brave the darkness my enter. No orc, dwarfs, hobbits, elves, or such. But there is a pack rat that keeps eating my webbing on my anchor up there. I am going to install chain and unless he has steel teeth that should take care of the little bastard!
Credit: Plaidman

Here is a pic of the upper entrance. It is natural. I call it The Window To Heaven.
Window to Heaven
Window to Heaven
Credit: Plaidman

I have removed all the loose rock so it's not a death route anymore. You do need several headlamps to see in there. But you can leave your swords and magic sticks at home.

Plaid
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
May 9, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Here is Raphael Slawinski on some fine M8 Rockies choss with no bolts
http://vimeo.com/21932853
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
May 9, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
there was some people on it but were not in the way!
there was some people on it but were not in the way!
Credit: whitemeat
MisterE

Social climber
May 10, 2013 - 10:19am PT
Sandstone with conglomerate bump:

Credit: MisterE
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2013 - 11:38am PT
like
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 10, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Freakin' Flakes

Todd Battey following The Stall 5.10
Todd Battey following The Stall 5.10
Credit: StahlBro
Onewhowalksonrocks

Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
May 10, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
Number one Choss
Number one Choss
Credit: Onewhowalksonrocks
MisterE

Social climber
May 10, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
THE POWER OF THE CHOSS COMPELS YOU...

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2013 - 12:34am PT
I feel oddly forced to post this up. Not sure why...


MisterE

Social climber
May 11, 2013 - 12:44am PT