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MtnDeb
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
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Who's the "expert" on pending development in Benton Crags? Some exploration yesterday seemed to show that there is plenty of room for more north of north parking lot. Scrambled/climbed on several formations and found no signs of passage.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Jun 11, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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Don't know anything about new routes, but were there any nasty biting bugs there? What is the season for those painful buggers?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 11, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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Marty Lewis might know who has been active there lately.
Oh yeah, the no-see-ums can be nasty out there.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Jun 11, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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May want to ask SP Parker at Sierra Mountain Center. He may have some insight.
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MtnDeb
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Yep, we got chewed up pretty good!
Thanx guys!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 11, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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I went there once with my kids in July or August, fun scrambling around and no problems at all with bugs. It's pretty dry out there. High clearance vehicle recommended, barely made it in the Prius (but I think I took a side path and was on parallel tracks with 3-4 foot bushes in the middle).
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Jun 11, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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Choss. ;)
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jun 11, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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No idea, hiked out to Double Dome in '99 or so (following the '88 eastside guide description), new options either looked way too grainy or a bit too short - and those "bit too short" walls got developed by some folks in 2001 (see Marty's Mammoth guide).
But from there I hiked cross-country from there to the south end, and along the way found a really cool old American Indian hunting blind on a tiny knoll about 100 yards above a spring - perfectly located to be exactly where deer flushed from the spring would stop and look back (thus giving them a point-blank shot).
You could ask at MMS, but that's such a remote spot that there's no "local campfire community" to talk about new routes...
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 11, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
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I've only roped up on one climb there, and the actual climbing didn't leave a big impression on me. What did leave an impression on me was the unexpected type of rock juxtaposed with different surroundings. It's worth a visit for that and the overall experience, even if you don't get super-inspired by the specific rock or routes.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jun 12, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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MisterE, we're only talking about new route potential north of the main crags, there's loads at Benton longer than 50', and some really good rock (and some not-so-great rock, and some really grainy junk rock as well). Some bolted stuff, and a lot of trad pro including on face routes (nuts & small cams in patina, runouts, etc). Locals Only, Crocodile Rock, and Clock Rock get my votes for the best rock.
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Some of the classics in the main area are worth doing too
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old craghag
Sport climber
Bishop
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Benton has really good climbs if you know where to find them. Its one of my favorite spots.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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I've only roped up on one climb there, and the actual climbing didn't leave a big impression on me.
I've done about 20 different climbs there in different locations. Some were quite nice, some were a bit friable but the best part is that, except for Locals Only, you usually have the cliffs to yourself. I particularly liked the crack/face routes on Crocodile, and the sport routes on Lost Piton. Great views from Lost Piton too.
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 21, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
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I just re-visited Benton Crags yesterday, and found that my 1983 testpiece "Australopithecus" had been reduced to an over bolted sport climb. I don't know who did it, but it is a well established tradition to not place blots on existing climbs.
The route was lead ground-up, first try on the FA, on gear available in 1983. It was lead in the same style yesterday. I removed the bolt next to two perfect placements at the start, the third bolt on the direct variation start, and all of the bolts on the upper crack and roof yesterday.
If you want your hangars back, feel free to contact me with an explanation of why you retro-bolted my route.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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Scole, out of curiosity I looked for your route in the Mammoth Guidebook (3rd edition) which is what many people visiting the area would be using as a reference. I did not see a route of that name there.
Is it possible someone did not know that your route was already established, and bolted it thinking they were doing a first ascent?
What is the location of your route?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Aug 21, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Is that the one that had a couple super shiny ugly chain permadraws too? Very out of place in Benton particularly out in the middle of nowhere, nothing but bad press for climbers, I would have pulled the draws but didn't get to it (didn't realize it was also a retrobolt - but the chain draws were horrible looking).
No idea who did that, but I'm pretty certain it was some years back, not in the last couple years.
While we are on the subject, a few years back Grant Hiskes asked me to add a bolted anchor to his route Competitive Edge (Crocodile Rock - one of my favorite Benton routes). As the ASCA guy I had to decline, but I have to admit it would be pretty nice - instead of the standard lead, set anchor, TR your friends, then climb again and pull the anchor and solo off. Think it's just over half a 60. Anyway, thought I would throw that out there.
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 22, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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I was disgusted with all of the crap hanging from a formerly pristine crag in a remote place. Why does anyone need a chain draw right next to a perfect hand crack?
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 22, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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The chain draws are gross, and have no place there. Next time I am there I will remove them and leave only hangers on the remaining bolts.
I am also not particularly happy with the convenience anchors on my routes, and will remove them. My climbs end at the top, not half way up the wall.
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hossjulia
climber
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Aug 22, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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One of my favorite places, not just for the climbing. Sorry to hear about these issues.
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