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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 1, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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Connected with Jeremy (formerly of Supertopo), over the holidays for some excellent winter rock climbing adventures in the aptly named "Valley of the Gods".
This was our first time climbing together, and my first time climbing in the Valley of the Gods. So, naturally we opted for a first ascent.
This is what we came up with:
Climbing in the VOTG is one of the most horrifying experiences I've had rock climbing. I can't wait to go back!
One thing I learned climbing there is to always let you're partner lead the first pitch. This is where the worst of what passes for rock will be encountered. Jeremy was generous enough to let me have the first pitch on this one. Like a dumbass, I eagerly accepeed the challenge. Looking up at my prospects I got this nauseous feeling in my stomach.
I was seriously not mentally prepared for this level of effort. I'm comming off the couch, big time. The climbing was a stressful combination of free and aid in highly suspect rock. At least three times on this pitch I had to do these sketchey mantels onto rubbley little perches - you know, the kind where you have to reach down mid-mantel and unclip your daisies, then hope nothing gets caught as you press up on tho the tottering choss pile.
I finally finished off the 3 hour lead with one last horror show mantel. At this point I was psyched Jeremy had brought the power drill, a nice new Bosch 36 volt w/ the lithium ion battery. I pulled up the drilling kit, thinking it seemed pretty light. The bolt bag and a hammer appeared. "Dude, where's the drill", I called down. "It's in the bag", says Jeremy. "You didn't bring the Bosch????!" By now, I'm dehydrated, my muscles are quivering from the effort of the lead. I can manage about a dozen hammer swings at a time before I have to shake out.
A solid hour later I've got a good bolt in, and Jeremy jugs up.
The crack we had been aiming for turned out to be an overhanging bombay squeeze chimney. There is also another very doable looking line directly above the first pitch. Jeremy opted instead to traverse the ledge left to another crack he had scoped out from the ground. We returned the next morning and Jeremy continued the route up what turned out to be a pretty nice crack. It would definitely go free at 10+/11-, perfect hands.
Once he turned that overhang I couldn't see him, but I could certainly hear him; sort of a cross between the soundtrack of a B horror flick and an amature porn video. It got wide up there. It seemed like everything that could go wrong did, on this pitch. He ran out of gear, got the #6 camalot stuck, and had to set up an intermediate belay. I was not off the hook after all, and had to finish off the pitch.
We scrambled up to the notch to scope out the side of the summit tower we couldn't see, and there was this awesome looking 50" chimney on the north side. But there was a frigid wind coming off Cedar Mesa and there was about an hour of daylight left. So, we decided to leave our ropes fixed and come back the next weekend to finish it off. By the time we returned to camp it was like blizzard conditions. We drove through the snow to Bluff in time to grab a beer.
The following Saturday we jugged our lines and Jeremy did battle with the 50" chimney. It turned out to be a lot harder than it looked, protected with a combination of beaks and large cams. It sounded very strenuous. Skirting the final death block (do not touch!) Jeremy toped it out on the virgin summit. In fact, this may be the first ascent of the formation.
I'll leave you with some senic shots of this truly magical place. Jeremy also took some pictures with his phone. My camera crapped out on me on the second weekend, so I didn't get any summit shots. So, maybe if we ask real nice like, we can get Jeremy to come back and fill in some of the holes in this TR . . .
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Can anyone really ever be "formerly of Supertopo"?
really?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice!
You can check out any time but you can never leave!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Solid.
I mean, good job!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Climbing in the VOTG is one of the most horrifying experiences I've had rock climbing. I can't wait to go back!
'Nuf said.......
Great report...love that area....wish my skills were good enough to climb there
Susan
Edit: Yes Jeremy, come back .... New Years Resolution?
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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choss bump . . .
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 09:09am PT
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MisterE
Social climber
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Nice, Rich! Good to see you getting after it again!
There is certainly plenty of stuff around your area.
Maybe Jeremy could send you the pictures, and you could post them if he won't come back.
Sounds like a great adventure with a stoked partner!
Erik
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sick!
I want some too.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sweet! I see a window coming in Sedona.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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nice rich.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Did Jeremy pitch a hissy fit over Burchey and left the site? LOL People take this internet sh#t too seriously...
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Did you meet is mom?
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 11:20am PT
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Jeremy never even mentioned his mom!
I feel cheated . . .
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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bump for the FA and getting it done. nice work. we need more mud though.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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sweet, almost didn't click on this since I didn't realize what VOTG is.
I'm a noob.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Ahh, that damn Jeremy, following me everywhere 8-)
Fun report and beautiful pictures. The light in Valley of the Gods can be superb, especially in the winter. And, you found an unclimbed formation to climb. Very cool!
Must return.....those Valley of the Gods mantels never disappoint.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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adventure bump
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