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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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Been a while since I've seen that guy! You too for that matter Reilly.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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Here are several I've been on that are now gone:
Psyche Flake, Half Dome NWF summer of 66. I was told that I wouldn't like it but to just do it. I did and it turned out to be one of the easy pitches. There were holes in it which you could look through out on the valley.
Lower Cathedral Rock, NF also summer of 66. I went through six climbing partners on the first few pitches. None wanted any part of it. Bridwell finally agreed to do it. This was the last ascent. This is too bad since the climbing was actually very good. We kicked off a large amount of loose rock.
Mt St Helens, climbed this when it was still intact.
World Trade Center. Once back in the 70s I was briefly visiting New York and got the urge to go to the top of the WTC. This involved an express elevator and then a shorter elevator up to four floors below the top. Down at the end of the hall was a door, unlocked into a stair well which went down to infinity and also up. At the top, the door was also unlocked and there I was on the roof all alone. It was drizzling and there was no view. I lurked around for ten minutes and then went down.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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It's beginning to sound like the compressor route on Cerro Torre recently had a 'last' ascent - the last pre Kruk/Kennedy, anyway - and now Lama has done a second 'first' ascent, as he's claimed to have freed the compressor route. This is getting confusing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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Who got the last ascent of Werner's Crack before it became Werner's Arch?!?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jan 24, 2012 - 03:36am PT
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So I was clearly wrong on Rearick and Robbins being the
last to do Psyche Flake. Eric, do you remember what ascent
you made? Fourth, fifth...?
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jan 24, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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Pat, I don't know where my ascent of Half Dome fits into the total. However, I do know that it was climbed 11 times in 1966. This was back when you could still keep track of such trivia. Moreover, the success rate was exactly 50%, 11 ascents out of 22 attempts. What counted as an attempt? This is admittedly a squishy idea. Here are some non attempts:
1. Sorting the hardware in Camp 4.
2. Agreeing to do it in the bar.
I counted it as am attempt if they carried everything up to the base of the wall.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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Squishy attempts are a popular thing in Squamish, especially on more serious routes. We must convene a meeting of the morals & ethics committee to consider a definition of 'attempt'.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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bump
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 03:32am PT
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When they illegally logged the upper malamute & started clearing the embankment on the west side of the highway to make the malamute parking there was some rock that became exposed. We climbed a bunch of new problems up on the bench and a few days later when they were done clearing by the road we started climbing those. We were trying this one cool slabby scoop when A highway worker came up & scrambled up to the top of the embankment & put a stake in the ground. He set a few here & there & when he came back down we asked him what was up. "We're gonna blow this stuff up tomorrow" he said matter of factly & walked off. We finished the climb & the next day sure enough, it was a pile of gravel. This climb was buried for eternity then dug up for 72 hrs, climbed twice & blown up. We called it blast from the past. It was fun.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:35am PT
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Nice boots!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:54am PT
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It was crushed and so were you! LOL
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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I remember Kor trying to talk Art Gran into doing a new route in Dinosaur. There was time pressure as a dam was planned which would flood the route. Art said "I'm not going to do a route that no one will ever repeat". Kor didn't care.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
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Dan Wort and I tried climbing the Rostrum in 1970. The guide book at the time was Steve Roper's red book. At the base of the climb was the remains of a large rockfall and we discovered where it came from up higher on the rock. If I recall correctly, there was supposed to be another chimney above the half-way ledge but it was gone! Above there, I was nailing a corner and in the left side of the dihedral's wall was a 2" crack. While I pounded, small rocks would tumble down the 2" crack - it was a bit spooky since we knew things had fallen apart. I was a LITTLE worried that section was the next to go. Who knows, that may have been the first attempt of that new version of the Rostrum.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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Ryan, at one time we (Eric and I) bouldered in the road cuts along the highway, more or less where that silly bridge is now. It provided decent stuff, with clean rock, good edges, and an OK landing. All blown up by the highway project.
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