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Timmc
climber
BC
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2 for 2
Salathe in 1991
The Nose in 2008
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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"Hey mcreel- "Plans for Salathé, but scrapped due to serious congestion on the route. Did Free Blast instead, and nearly got killed due to rockfall from an aid party hauling a bag up the Half Dollar. "
Was this recently???"
No, that was a long time ago, maybe 1989.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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steveA -- Steve Arsenault of Mordor Wall fame? If so, it's sad all those chicken bolts were added to the 2nd and 3rd pitches.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Ammon soloed the NA for his first wall, no portaledge. What a Pirate!
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Gunkie,
Ya, that's me.
Such a lousy day outside. I've been goofing off all day inside.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Has anyone mentioned climbing the East Buttress?
I know that's kind of the edge of El Cap but it does allow for a moderate climber to scale the big cliff in a somewhat relaxed day. You get to experience the views across the valley and the east ledges descent.
If it counts, I got up it first time.
Hoping to some day get enough time to try a wall route on El Cap. I plan on choosing my partner for that carefully. We'll see how that goes.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 2013 first-timers - plan for late May. Early and mid-May seems to have a higher probability of being too unstable and or wet.
My first attempt - mid-May - the Captain was wet from a big snow the prior week, and I got scared, we bailed from just below Dolt. Came back the next year in June and hungrier. We got up the Nose, and have continued with success on the Salathe and Mescalito. 3 for 4 - but first time was a failure.
Climb Ohn. Wally
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Has anyone mentioned climbing the East Buttress?
Sorry brah, doesn't count.
Yer gunna die!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Up the Tangerine Trip with Mason Frichette on the first try back in 1977. I had two Grade VIs already under my belt and a half dozen Vs so it was pretty routine.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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steveA - I've done Mordor Wall 3x. Once in the 80's with 2 or 3 bolts on the second pitch (your original single bolt at the end of the traverse... still shaking my head over that impressive feat). Then I did the route again in the mid-90's and the 2nd pitch had four or maybe five bolts on it, but the 3rd pitch still had the bathook holes leading to the crack. Then I did the route again in 2001 and there were probably six or seven 3/8 inch SS bolts on the traverse + a new 3/8 inch SS bolt on the seam. And all of the bathook holes on the 3rd pitch were filled with 3/8 inch SS bolts. And the 1st pitch had a 3/8 inch SS bolt just before the hanging belay.
Mordor Wall was, and still is an outstanding line, such a great climb with real consequences for blowing it. I'll take my son up it one of these days and tell him not to clip any of the bolts on he 2nd pitch until he gets to the seam ;)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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I'll never forget the feeling of getting to the top the first time (Nose clean). I didn't want it to end, felt like I could keep going forever!
After my first one I was 100% till now. When you've got the psych there isn't much short of death that will stop you.
I knew a couple of brothers that took many attempts before they were successful. After that they just cranked one after another.
I know another guy that went up many many times and never did make it. He didn't have the psych.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, dee ee.... wow, this is a fantastic thread...
thanks for sharing... :)
will be back to see and read more...
thanks for sharing... :)
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Binks
climber
Uranus
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I made it... I managed it slowly... And haven't done it since (other than the EB free route which does not count).
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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2 for 2 so far. Mescalito as the first and Zodiac solo as the second. Both last month. Hopefully the first of many. Its nice up there. One other VI, some V's and a few bails off other walls beforehand though. Can't wait for next spring....
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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For most people, el Cap is the biggest cliff they have ever seen, and it takes a while to get used to it.
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radair
Social climber
North Conway, NH
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Got up the Nose in November 1985 first try with a strong partner. We had an awesome time.
I slammed into the Dolt corner while following the tension traverse pitch off Sickle ledge as I didn't have enough rope to lower all the way. That wasn't so great as I had back problems for years from that slam. Then we had 4 base jumpers scream past us a couple pitches below the great roof, what a shot of adenaline! I had a nut pull out on the great roof and took an upside down fall, oops.
Finally, I linked the last two pitches and had horrendous rope drag, so had to belay off the 5 bolts/hanging stance right at the lip. I remember at first thinking "oh no", but the hauling was so easy and the light so perfect I didn't want to leave. John Long wrote about that belay spot in one of his articles and captured the feeling perfectly.
Best route of my life.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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I'm on my best streak ever right now, eight ascents with no failures.
Mark, just wondering why you don't consider this a "failure?" Not an attempt at flaming just wondering. Or have you done 8 El Cap routes since?
Disclaimer: I've never done a big wall and I suck. Just curious as to what defines success and failure on a big wall.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Iron-Hawk-Solo/t11586n.html
EDIT: BTW, this is one of my favorite TR's ever and have shared it with many people. Very inspiring.
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Mikemcee
Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
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What incredible timing for this thread as I pondered the same question yesterday while I hiked our last load down after bailing from Zodiac. Cap'n 1 - Mike 0.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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First El Cap attempt: Zodiac 1999. Made it in 4 days at age 46. Not done with El Cap yet !!
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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2 for 2 - Nose (77) and Salathe (78) - similar to Steve A, Was young and fit (and stubborn). Had good luck with the weather.
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