wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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My first El Cap attempt was also my first wall, Zodiac, in 1990. It was the last El Cap route to date for my partners, Larry Zulim and Sheldon Wilcox.
Did it IAD with Kristoffer Wickstrom (upthread)and Scott Lappin last May for my third time on that route IAD, so far.
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The Alpine
climber
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Everybody's sending 'round here!
First try here as well. I never knew the bittersweet taste of bailure 'til I headed into the mountains...
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Jane Gallwey
Big Wall climber
Ireland
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1st try 2010 - Triple Direct, bailed from the grey ledges, parner bashed his leg up a bit
2nd try 2011 - LF solo
Even though it was only 2 years it felt like I'd been wanting to climb El Cap forever - sitting on top on my own (even if I'd only done the easiest possible route) was pretty damn neat.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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first try zodiac in a day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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I know a kid that got up Muir wall on his first try. Led something like 26 pitches too... Too bad he's not talking about it....
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Prod
Trad climber
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First try first wall Zodiac 2004. Swapped pitches.
Prod.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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2 for 2; The Nose and Salathe-1971
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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shield first go in '78, unless you want to say we bailed repeatedly in the process of fixing six ropes. jugged every morning, golfed and swam every afternoon for a week till finally my freshly dislocated knee seemed ready/steady after plenty of biking to/from the bar
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Timmc
climber
BC
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2 for 2
Salathe in 1991
The Nose in 2008
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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"Hey mcreel- "Plans for Salathé, but scrapped due to serious congestion on the route. Did Free Blast instead, and nearly got killed due to rockfall from an aid party hauling a bag up the Half Dollar. "
Was this recently???"
No, that was a long time ago, maybe 1989.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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steveA -- Steve Arsenault of Mordor Wall fame? If so, it's sad all those chicken bolts were added to the 2nd and 3rd pitches.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Ammon soloed the NA for his first wall, no portaledge. What a Pirate!
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Gunkie,
Ya, that's me.
Such a lousy day outside. I've been goofing off all day inside.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Has anyone mentioned climbing the East Buttress?
I know that's kind of the edge of El Cap but it does allow for a moderate climber to scale the big cliff in a somewhat relaxed day. You get to experience the views across the valley and the east ledges descent.
If it counts, I got up it first time.
Hoping to some day get enough time to try a wall route on El Cap. I plan on choosing my partner for that carefully. We'll see how that goes.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 2013 first-timers - plan for late May. Early and mid-May seems to have a higher probability of being too unstable and or wet.
My first attempt - mid-May - the Captain was wet from a big snow the prior week, and I got scared, we bailed from just below Dolt. Came back the next year in June and hungrier. We got up the Nose, and have continued with success on the Salathe and Mescalito. 3 for 4 - but first time was a failure.
Climb Ohn. Wally
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Has anyone mentioned climbing the East Buttress?
Sorry brah, doesn't count.
Yer gunna die!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Up the Tangerine Trip with Mason Frichette on the first try back in 1977. I had two Grade VIs already under my belt and a half dozen Vs so it was pretty routine.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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steveA - I've done Mordor Wall 3x. Once in the 80's with 2 or 3 bolts on the second pitch (your original single bolt at the end of the traverse... still shaking my head over that impressive feat). Then I did the route again in the mid-90's and the 2nd pitch had four or maybe five bolts on it, but the 3rd pitch still had the bathook holes leading to the crack. Then I did the route again in 2001 and there were probably six or seven 3/8 inch SS bolts on the traverse + a new 3/8 inch SS bolt on the seam. And all of the bathook holes on the 3rd pitch were filled with 3/8 inch SS bolts. And the 1st pitch had a 3/8 inch SS bolt just before the hanging belay.
Mordor Wall was, and still is an outstanding line, such a great climb with real consequences for blowing it. I'll take my son up it one of these days and tell him not to clip any of the bolts on he 2nd pitch until he gets to the seam ;)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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I'll never forget the feeling of getting to the top the first time (Nose clean). I didn't want it to end, felt like I could keep going forever!
After my first one I was 100% till now. When you've got the psych there isn't much short of death that will stop you.
I knew a couple of brothers that took many attempts before they were successful. After that they just cranked one after another.
I know another guy that went up many many times and never did make it. He didn't have the psych.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, dee ee.... wow, this is a fantastic thread...
thanks for sharing... :)
will be back to see and read more...
thanks for sharing... :)
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