How many people get up El Cap on their first attempt?

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 182 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 8, 2012 - 10:57am PT
I know a kid that got up Muir wall on his first try. Led something like 26 pitches too... Too bad he's not talking about it....
Prod

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 11:00am PT
First try first wall Zodiac 2004. Swapped pitches.

Prod.
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Nov 8, 2012 - 11:04am PT
2 for 2; The Nose and Salathe-1971
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Nov 8, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
shield first go in '78, unless you want to say we bailed repeatedly in the process of fixing six ropes. jugged every morning, golfed and swam every afternoon for a week till finally my freshly dislocated knee seemed ready/steady after plenty of biking to/from the bar
Timmc

climber
BC
Nov 8, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
2 for 2

Salathe in 1991
The Nose in 2008
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Nov 8, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
"Hey mcreel- "Plans for Salathé, but scrapped due to serious congestion on the route. Did Free Blast instead, and nearly got killed due to rockfall from an aid party hauling a bag up the Half Dollar. "

Was this recently???"


No, that was a long time ago, maybe 1989.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Nov 8, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
steveA -- Steve Arsenault of Mordor Wall fame? If so, it's sad all those chicken bolts were added to the 2nd and 3rd pitches.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 8, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
Ammon soloed the NA for his first wall, no portaledge. What a Pirate!
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Nov 8, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
Gunkie,

Ya, that's me.

Such a lousy day outside. I've been goofing off all day inside.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
Has anyone mentioned climbing the East Buttress?
I know that's kind of the edge of El Cap but it does allow for a moderate climber to scale the big cliff in a somewhat relaxed day. You get to experience the views across the valley and the east ledges descent.
If it counts, I got up it first time.
Hoping to some day get enough time to try a wall route on El Cap. I plan on choosing my partner for that carefully. We'll see how that goes.
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Nov 8, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
May 2013 first-timers - plan for late May. Early and mid-May seems to have a higher probability of being too unstable and or wet.

My first attempt - mid-May - the Captain was wet from a big snow the prior week, and I got scared, we bailed from just below Dolt. Came back the next year in June and hungrier. We got up the Nose, and have continued with success on the Salathe and Mescalito. 3 for 4 - but first time was a failure.

Climb Ohn. Wally
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 8, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
Has anyone mentioned climbing the East Buttress?

Sorry brah, doesn't count.

Yer gunna die!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 8, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
Up the Tangerine Trip with Mason Frichette on the first try back in 1977. I had two Grade VIs already under my belt and a half dozen Vs so it was pretty routine.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Nov 8, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
steveA - I've done Mordor Wall 3x. Once in the 80's with 2 or 3 bolts on the second pitch (your original single bolt at the end of the traverse... still shaking my head over that impressive feat). Then I did the route again in the mid-90's and the 2nd pitch had four or maybe five bolts on it, but the 3rd pitch still had the bathook holes leading to the crack. Then I did the route again in 2001 and there were probably six or seven 3/8 inch SS bolts on the traverse + a new 3/8 inch SS bolt on the seam. And all of the bathook holes on the 3rd pitch were filled with 3/8 inch SS bolts. And the 1st pitch had a 3/8 inch SS bolt just before the hanging belay.

Mordor Wall was, and still is an outstanding line, such a great climb with real consequences for blowing it. I'll take my son up it one of these days and tell him not to clip any of the bolts on he 2nd pitch until he gets to the seam ;)
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
I'll never forget the feeling of getting to the top the first time (Nose clean). I didn't want it to end, felt like I could keep going forever!

After my first one I was 100% till now. When you've got the psych there isn't much short of death that will stop you.

I knew a couple of brothers that took many attempts before they were successful. After that they just cranked one after another.

I know another guy that went up many many times and never did make it. He didn't have the psych.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 8, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
hey there say, dee ee.... wow, this is a fantastic thread...
thanks for sharing... :)


will be back to see and read more...
thanks for sharing... :)
Binks

climber
Uranus
Nov 8, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
I made it... I managed it slowly... And haven't done it since (other than the EB free route which does not count).
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
2 for 2 so far. Mescalito as the first and Zodiac solo as the second. Both last month. Hopefully the first of many. Its nice up there. One other VI, some V's and a few bails off other walls beforehand though. Can't wait for next spring....
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
For most people, el Cap is the biggest cliff they have ever seen, and it takes a while to get used to it.
radair

Social climber
North Conway, NH
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
Got up the Nose in November 1985 first try with a strong partner. We had an awesome time.

I slammed into the Dolt corner while following the tension traverse pitch off Sickle ledge as I didn't have enough rope to lower all the way. That wasn't so great as I had back problems for years from that slam. Then we had 4 base jumpers scream past us a couple pitches below the great roof, what a shot of adenaline! I had a nut pull out on the great roof and took an upside down fall, oops.

Finally, I linked the last two pitches and had horrendous rope drag, so had to belay off the 5 bolts/hanging stance right at the lip. I remember at first thinking "oh no", but the hauling was so easy and the light so perfect I didn't want to leave. John Long wrote about that belay spot in one of his articles and captured the feeling perfectly.

Best route of my life.
11/1/85
11/1/85
Credit: radair
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