Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Got some very good advice a while ago from someone who's posted in this thread. Goes something along the lines of "you're not allowed bail because you're scared, you're not allowed bail because you're tired , you're not allowed bail because you're lonely,and you're not allowed bail because the hauling sucks". Following that logic has seen me up 4 out of the last 5 wall routes I've been on.The bail was because I was in over my head and had literally no idea how to get past a section without doing something I wasn't morally prepared to do.
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meLoco
climber
Las Vegas,Nevada
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Nov 10, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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I had been climbing a year when I partnered up with Richard Harrison and did the Triple Direct. We swung leads, bivied 2 nights on the wall in bad weather and topped out. Yes, a good partner is essential.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
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Hey meLoco, what year was that?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 10, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
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Nearly everyone I would think. It's California, renowned for perfect weather or a good prediction of not perfect weather....what can hold you back aside from incompetence or abysmally bad luck?
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Nov 10, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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1974 I was 17 and in High School. My buddy was a couple of years older but we were about the same level climbers. We had not done even a grade IV at that time. We did not quite make dolt tower on the Nose the first day and spent the night in butt bags. So so thirsty that day - learned not to pack all the water away deep in the haul bag!!
Next morning a strap broke on our smaller bag/pack and it went to the ground. Learned a bit about how (not) to tie a bag in. A bit too much water, clothing and food went to the ground. We bailed.
Only other bail was off of the attempted 3rd (or 4th) ascent of the PO with Mark. When a flake he was nailing came off and gloved his ring finger we bailed down easy street and the NA.
Gave us a good reason to climb SS to PO last fall! Finally finishing it off.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 11, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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...gloved his ring finger...
I'm afraid to even ask wtf that means, but the image is freighting.
re: Donini.
"sigh" :::rolleyes:::
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Nov 11, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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El Cap is light duty for Donini. Real climbers aren't afraid to spoon.
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Andrew Barnes
Ice climber
Albany, NY
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Nov 11, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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Lambone,
I agree with almost everything you say about the prep and staging effort for a big wall ascent. It takes a lot of effort (for most people, except the ultra hardcore and super talented ones) to carry the kit, fix pitches,
haul up the fixed pitches and get established on the wall. Underestimating this, or underestimating other things (e.g. water needed, time needed, effort for hauling) can easily lead to a bail.
The one thing I prefer to do differently is the following: Instead of carrying the water to the wall first, I prefer to carry a rope and the rack for pitch 1 first, so I can climb pitch 1 before hauling water. If pitch 1 goes badly and I'm going to bail, I haven't wasted all the effort of carrying all that water up.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Nov 11, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
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El Cap was my first big wall and made it on my first go. Thanks to Riley Wyna who is strong like bull. Took my first whip in 2 years of climbing.
One of the best moments of my life - both of us summiting El Cap together for the first time.
Wurd. Cheers to that!
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meLoco
climber
Las Vegas,Nevada
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Nov 12, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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dee ee,
That would be 1994
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mr p
Big Wall climber
eastside ca
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:39am PT
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zodiac 83
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:46am PT
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Scored on my first attempt. Nose 1978, all clean, no hammer.
2.5 days.
Not bad for 1978.
But then I had served a pretty good apprenticeship on other walls.
People that try El Cap for their first wall are the ones that have a big psychological row to how.....
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Cheang Qx
Sport climber
Singapore
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:08am PT
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First attempt on the nose leading all pitches with my wife. Great partner is the key.. Our first big wall trip to Yosemite Valley..
http://vimeo.com/29883710
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Dominic
Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:11am PT
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First time success on the Nose (with total "Big Wall" experience amounting to about an hour jugging in my local quarry) followed by success on Zodiac; Lurking Fear & The Shield before bailing off Sunkist (team of 3 without the right system) and doing The Trip as a consolation prize.
Key attributes for success: Learn quickly, don't bail and have a good partner.
Dom
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climbera5
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:21am PT
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'84, after the Prow (my first wall), went and lead every pitch on the Nose with an inexperienced partner. Fun times. Over the next few years ticked off Salathe', Leaning Tower, Reg Route Half Dome, Shield, then topped it off with solo of Zodiac in '87; a real life changer for me.
Only bail was on my first attempt of Salathe due to injury half way up.
In my late 40's I tried a speed attempt up the Nose and got hosed; a reality check on my aging body. Now I grab a beer and belay my son.
Nice video QX, wish we had HD back in the day!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:25am PT
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1st & 2nd time up the big stone in 1979: w/Rick Harlin on the Nasal passage, Zodiac with Barbella and Karl McConachie. No prior "attempts" - though after Zodiac Barbella and Karl and I tried Mescalito and got absolutely cooked by the heat (June) and bailed after a few pitches.
Also, I've always tried to live by don't "attempt" something, go do it!!
Hi Dave;)
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:30am PT
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Seems like the key for a lot of first timer summiters (summiteers?) is a more experienced partner. Every time I've climbed the Captain I climbed with someone who had never climbed it before (which I guess would include me on my first route)--all good climber but had never done anything more than your average Grade V. Just knowing I had done it, could do it again, and what to do when the inevitable clusterf$%@ arose got us through those rough patches everyone hits at some point on their climb.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:35am PT
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I got to Sickle ledge on my first attempt before realizing walls and cocaine don't mix well. My next try was The Trip in winter and had a hell of an epic but still managed to send. There was something about "snow" that held a certain fascination. I'm better now.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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i managed to climb el cap 9 times out of 9 attempts, before i hit excalibur on easter week and got stormed off. ss
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Teo
Social climber
CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:48am PT
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Judging by how much less crowded it is after sickle ledge and especially after the stovelegs, I'd say about 30% max, but that doesn't separate first timers from repeat offenders. So I'd bet < 1/3
My own record, scared off and didn't come back for 10 years. But then it's been about 60% success, and never again went down out of fear.
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