How many people get up El Cap on their first attempt?


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Janet Wilts

Trad climber
Grand Teton National Park
Nov 14, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
2 for 2
The Nose with Tony Puppo
Lurking Fear with Dan McDivittttt

so many years ago I can't remember....


Big Wall climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
first try the nose for me..

but more importantly, the most impressive first time on el cap, without a doubt was a guy i climbed with in the valley a few years back andrew 'mcdermott'? soloed the nose in 18 hrs on his very first time on the big stone! what a hero

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Nov 14, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
Climbed it on our first try, Nose Route, at age 19 in 1978 with Tim Leech (a Brit). Took us 3 1/2 days, rained all night at our bivvy below the great roof, with all our ropes fixed above us.
rodrigo MUJICA

Mountain climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
The Nose, first try...but many night on the wall...3?
rodrigo MUJICA

Mountain climber
Nov 14, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
the nose first try
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
Boche and I on the Nose 1st try in 1967 in the rain - 7 very wet days. Hennek and I on 1st try on the Dihedral also in 1967. Hennek and I went up 8 pitches on the NA Wall in April of 1968, but Hennek hurt his back in a fall when a bolt pulled, so we bailed and came back later that year in September to do the 2nd ascent.

I hesitate to mention that Royal and I succeeded on first try in January 1971 on the Dawn Wall.
I hesitate because as Chouinard once told me, "Climbing with Robbins is cheating- you know you're going to make it."
Janet Wilts

Trad climber
Grand Teton National Park
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
Nawwww, it counts.....after all he was with you.......
Chris Gibson

Trad climber
Frisco, Texas
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
This is a great thread!!
Bad Climber

Nov 14, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
Climbed it only once but got up first try: West Face in 1980 when I was 18. That was after doing Liberty Crack route on Liberty Bell--a Grade V.

Ammon and Gabe's Mom

Lake Arrowhead, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
Ammon did it. Solo and never climbed a big wall before. He had only climbed very short walls. Probably not more than 300 feet. He climbed the nose. This was several years ago.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
Nice Don. Hi Dennis: bolts have no personal affiliations; if they pull it is your own damn fault or an act of god. I'd go with the god bit.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
Hey Ammon's mom,

Ammon soloed NA Wall, not the Nose, as his first ever El Cap route. Chongo taught Ammon everything he knows. ;)

How's Ammon's leg doing? Those X-rays were pretty scary looking!

[Don and Dennis who?] ;)

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Nov 15, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
I think it was 81

The Nose with Mark Grant.
fixed to Sickle, two bivies.
No hauling and used a single 100 Meter 9mm, linking as much as we could.
I lead the Stove legs as one pitch.
Could have been off the second night but we had one of our two headlamps burn out so we stayed at C-6 and topped early on the third morning.

At the end of the first day I was leading (a pitch or two under C-4) and we had at least half a dozen base jumpers go by.

Once we decided not to press on from C-6 on the second day, we fixed the next pitch and top roped it a few times.

The second night was much warmer for us. we only brought sweaters, wind breakers and beanies. However the second night we got to sleep between two plumb, Brits that had packed much acoutremon including big fluffy down bags.
Credit: Mark Grant
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 16, 2012 - 12:48am PT
The town drunk is never good with last names...
Myles Moser

Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 16, 2012 - 12:50am PT
That rock is too big!

Big Wall climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 02:39am PT
May 1973
Triple direct
First mexican party.
JuanGabriel Nieo
Pedro DiazJimenez ( me)
First attemp.

lawrence kansas
Nov 16, 2012 - 03:19am PT
Hey Cheche, that's super cool!!! You got any photos or good stories?

Big Wall climber
Solana Beach
Nov 16, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Freerider, 1st go ...

... after 25 years of climbing, a lot of multi-pitch trad climbing, sport climbing in the 5.13 range, and teaming up with a top partner who had expertly planned the adventure down to the small details.

It took us 4 exhausting days that I will never forget.

(We did not do it free: we ended up pulling on gear on pretty much every single pitch from day 2 onward.)

Trad climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
Salathe 2002 - First attempt, first send with 'Check' Mark.

El Cap Stats
11 successful ascents
9 different routes
1 solo
2 bails
Brian Gallant

Sport climber
Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 16, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
Got it on my second go!
Messages 141 - 160 of total 197 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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