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rodrigo MUJICA
Mountain climber
chile
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Nov 14, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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the nose first try
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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Boche and I on the Nose 1st try in 1967 in the rain - 7 very wet days. Hennek and I on 1st try on the Dihedral also in 1967. Hennek and I went up 8 pitches on the NA Wall in April of 1968, but Hennek hurt his back in a fall when a bolt pulled, so we bailed and came back later that year in September to do the 2nd ascent.
I hesitate to mention that Royal and I succeeded on first try in January 1971 on the Dawn Wall.
I hesitate because as Chouinard once told me, "Climbing with Robbins is cheating- you know you're going to make it."
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Janet Wilts
Trad climber
Grand Teton National Park
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Nov 14, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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Don,
Nawwww, it counts.....after all he was with you.......
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Chris Gibson
Trad climber
Frisco, Texas
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Nov 14, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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This is a great thread!!
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Bad Climber
climber
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
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Climbed it only once but got up first try: West Face in 1980 when I was 18. That was after doing Liberty Crack route on Liberty Bell--a Grade V.
BAd
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Ammon and Gabe's Mom
climber
Lake Arrowhead, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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Ammon did it. Solo and never climbed a big wall before. He had only climbed very short walls. Probably not more than 300 feet. He climbed the nose. This was several years ago.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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Nice Don. Hi Dennis: bolts have no personal affiliations; if they pull it is your own damn fault or an act of god. I'd go with the god bit.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Hey Ammon's mom,
Ammon soloed NA Wall, not the Nose, as his first ever El Cap route. Chongo taught Ammon everything he knows. ;)
How's Ammon's leg doing? Those X-rays were pretty scary looking!
[Don and Dennis who?] ;)
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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I think it was 81
The Nose with Mark Grant.
fixed to Sickle, two bivies.
No hauling and used a single 100 Meter 9mm, linking as much as we could.
I lead the Stove legs as one pitch.
Could have been off the second night but we had one of our two headlamps burn out so we stayed at C-6 and topped early on the third morning.
At the end of the first day I was leading (a pitch or two under C-4) and we had at least half a dozen base jumpers go by.
Once we decided not to press on from C-6 on the second day, we fixed the next pitch and top roped it a few times.
The second night was much warmer for us. we only brought sweaters, wind breakers and beanies. However the second night we got to sleep between two plumb, Brits that had packed much acoutremon including big fluffy down bags.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 16, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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The town drunk is never good with last names...
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 16, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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That rock is too big!
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Cheche
Big Wall climber
Mexico
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Nov 16, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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May 1973
Triple direct
First mexican party.
JuanGabriel Nieo
Pedro DiazJimenez ( me)
First attemp.
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Nov 16, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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Hey Cheche, that's super cool!!! You got any photos or good stories?
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butofcourse
Big Wall climber
Solana Beach
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Nov 16, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Freerider, 1st go ...
... after 25 years of climbing, a lot of multi-pitch trad climbing, sport climbing in the 5.13 range, and teaming up with a top partner who had expertly planned the adventure down to the small details.
It took us 4 exhausting days that I will never forget.
(We did not do it free: we ended up pulling on gear on pretty much every single pitch from day 2 onward.)
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Nov 16, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Salathe 2002 - First attempt, first send with 'Check' Mark.
El Cap Stats
11 successful ascents
9 different routes
1 solo
2 bails
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Brian Gallant
Sport climber
Colorado Springs, CO
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Nov 16, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
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Got it on my second go!
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Jimmy Russells
climber
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Nov 16, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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'Check' Mark
Now there's a name that I've not heard in a long time.
"I get route FIRST SIGHT!"
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dgealy
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo
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Nov 17, 2012 - 05:09am PT
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First try on the Nose when I was 18, my partner 19, 4 years of combined experience.
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Rad Styles
Mountain climber
Truckee
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Nov 17, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Nose first go 4 days, Salathe first go 3 days with Jcory. Damn it's good to have friends with stoke!!! And wine;)
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Nilepoc
Boulder climber
Tx
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Nov 17, 2012 - 11:07am PT
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First try depends on the definition.
In June of 1992 my partner and I entered the valley with the nose in our sites. We had no idea about the logistics of the endeavor, but went forward anyway and climbed to Sickle ledge and bivied there with the next pitch fixed (it seems everyone going vertical camping these days fixes, sleeps in the valley and hits it hard the next day). Very early the next morning 3 or 4 base jumpers exited off of the dawn wall. My partner thought they were rocks, freaked out lost his composure and decided to bail. So down we went.
Most would consider that a failure, I guess if your feet touch back down without any ropes on the route you have failed. I was not going to be stopped by not having a partner though. So I walked out in to the meadow the next day and survuyed the prospects gearing up for the Captain. Lucky for me a group from Arizona arrived with one of the three guys on crutches. Seeing an opportunity I swooped in to see what their deal was. It turns out that the week before one of the three broke his foot and they came to the valley anyway. I smelled fresh blood and pounced. They accepted me into their plan, who knows why? I had exactly four pitches of experience at this point in my career. So the next day they climbed to sickle and I lounged around watching them. The following day I joined them and we headed up the route only to be rained out three pitches off of sickle. So down we go, leaving ropes fixed up to sickle ledge for another attempt. A day later we were back on the wall and headed to the top. I ended up leading about half of the route, Rob lead the other half and the third guy (forgot his name) tagged along for the ride.
So over five days I started the Nose three times and topped out five days after the last start. Personally I considered myself lucky to get up my first El Cap route first try but upon reflection I guess it took me three tries. Crap I am just not the badass I thought I was.
So put me in the not the first time catagory.
Man I should write a TR for that climb.
Side note, Hans Florine woke us up on el cap tower on a speed ascent or attempt while we were on the wall. Pretty cool, I think they did it in four hours and we took five days, but I took almost ten including all attempts. I had been climbing a total of four years and arrived in the valley with exactly 30 feet of aiding experience prior to climbing the Nose. This August My future brother in law and I completed my second route which was the NA over the course of a week. Notably 20 years after my first climb on El Cap.
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