Hey Peter Croft!


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Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
Wings bump...

peter croft

Nov 8, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
We had a blast in there - had the luck to be in the right place and the right time (course it took 4 or 5 times between us in as many years to find that luck) If you check the pic that GF sent in the line is in the center of the shot - the sweeping buttress between light and shade (just left of some black streaks) Real varied - low angle to overhanging face, thin cracks to chimneys and about twice as tall as the Hulk. We called it Valkyrie - google that and you'll find a bunch of good reasons to die in battle. The next day I took off into the next valley and climbed the Saber Ridge. Heard it was good - Man, like Mathes Crest except in another league of good. Of course we apologize for not reporting earlier. Speaking for myself, before I could facebook, post, tweet and twerp I first had to catch up on Tivo-ed episodes of Daily Show and some primo adventures of Archer. I'm sure the others had equally important stuff to do as well. As far as Merriam goes, the left route is the Flying Buttress and the right one is Gargoyle. Went back in with Andy Puhvel this summer for a long day and did both again. Both of us thought the right route was even better. We also thought the last half mile to the car is actually more like 4 or 5

Social climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
Cool! I'm glad you had (what I assume is) a successful summer. There is just SO MUCH ROCK out in the sierra it is NUTS! I scrambled around for 4 or 5 hours through brush to look at some dinky 40 foot decomposed chosspiles in San Diego, keep forgetting that up north there is, like, ROCK climbing.

Weird, huh!??!

Good on you for catching up on Archer, I'd hate to miss out RuPauls Drag Race All-Stars for any rock climbing.

You think I'm joking......


Soda Springs, CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
Hey Peter! Nice to see you on supertopo...your description of the location sounds like the same general zone as "Devil Made Me Do It!" a route I did with Urmas Franosch some years ago, not all free though... Like to see your line drawn in somehow...

Peter Mayfield
The Alpine

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
Thanks for the info Peter! That's a striking line for sure.

Not to be selfish or anything, but.......

....ya got a topo??

Myles Moser

Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Topos take time Alpine. The map must represent the quality of the climb.

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
Thanks for the mini report Peter. What a great send. And Reilly, amazing photo man!

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
WHoah....look what I found about The Sabre Ridge somewhere online in the AAJ.

Looks loco good.

Credit: micronut

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
And The Prism. Is this stuff in the "next valley over" you were talking about Peter?

Credit: micronut

I think the green line in the background is on The Sabre Ridge.

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
Nothing to see here people. Everything in SEKI is ugly and choss. No reason to leave Yosemite. Looked at sabre ridge this summer and I think it's just made out of dirt anyway :)

Angel Wings
Angel Wings
Credit: limpingcrab
Hamilton Lake and Angel Wings
Hamilton Lake and Angel Wings
Credit: limpingcrab


Trad climber
Garrison, NY
Nov 8, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
Hi Micronut (or anyone else!):

Do you have any more beta on The Prism besides that photo that you posted? Looks amazing!


Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
This is about all that's out there:


If you're wondering where the prizm is:

36° 35.404'N, 118° 34.377'W

Looking forward to hearing more about the new route on Angel Wings! I'm guessing it's hard, just a hunch.

Trad climber
Nov 9, 2012 - 12:22am PT
Previous TR that included video of Saber Ridge. Glad to hear Peter speak so highly of it.


Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Nov 9, 2012 - 01:38am PT
Archer, awesome!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 9, 2012 - 02:51am PT
You have my permission to draw on this.
Angel Wings, from the waterfall.
Angel Wings, from the waterfall.
Credit: Spider Savage

Nov 9, 2012 - 03:16am PT
Just pick the biggest, baddest line. That's the one they did.

Some awesome photos here btw.

Nov 9, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
On the first ascent of Left Facet (route A in the photo posted above) we had trouble finding a clean path through the steep roofy section right at the bottom of the prism. We finally settled on a line that passed mostly to the left of the roofs, but there was one 20 foot section of steep blank rock. I got some good gear in a horizontal below the blank section and made a few moves into some dicey friction pockets. That's when I made the mistake of looking down. I started thinking about how fun it would be to try and crawl out 15 miles on a broken ankle. Yep. Good thing "sierra hardman" Brandon Thau was there. He eats 5.10 friction pockets for breakfast. The next 8 pitches we lost ourselves in fields of low angle cracks and seas of giant chicken heads. Amazing route, but don't underestimate pitch 2.

Social climber
Nov 9, 2012 - 01:02pm PT

There are some BEAUTIFUL photo's on this thread...

This one just one example...




Really WOULD make a cool poster...


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 9, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
great thread

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Nov 9, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
Love it-bump!
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