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The Alpine

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 7, 2012 - 07:19am PT
What did you guys do on Angel Wings this summer??
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 7, 2012 - 07:40am PT
Yes, I want to know too. Saw an article ( http://www.neverstopexploring.com/blog/2012/09/peter-croft-angel-wings.html ) and was really curious to see more details.
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Nov 7, 2012 - 07:54am PT
"Summit day started at 3 am with a little bit of food and just the right amount of too much coffee."


love this quote.


The Alpine

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:25am PT
Wow, thats an allstar lineup, most likely having put an all stars line up. Croft, Nettle, Thau and Eppi!

Brandon - you around?
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:33am PT
Worked on Eppi after this adventure, should be good to read about it and see some photos. Glad it went well and the route finally got finished.
Peacee
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:29am PT
I saw Vitaliy's link as well and was wondering about that about a month ago. It's hard to believe that they didn't even bother naming the route. Too bad PC wouldn't post here - we might just never find out.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:31am PT
He posted like a mofo in the Squamish thread. Maybe this will resurrect him
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:34am PT
Brandon - you around?

I'm here.

Just goofing off, I'd like to hear about this as well. Nettle is one of those dudes I look up to.

I'm not Brandon Thau.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:38am PT
Maybe if we mention his name in this thread enough, he will get sick of it, and write us a TR so we shut up?
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:42am PT
Who are you referring to, Peter Croft or Brandon Thau or Dave Nettle or Greg Epperson?

They all post here.
gf

climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
Reports from the front are that there were some incredibly picturesque...
Reports from the front are that there were some incredibly picturesque belay ledges right on the edge of the blunt buttress.
Credit: relayed from P croft-likely taken by one of his mates
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 7, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
Would love it if they draw their line on that photo. Angel Wings is a beautiful peak. Hope to make a trek to that area next year.

Angel Wings
Angel Wings
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Yummm
Silver

Ice climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
He posts in the Squamish thread because its about climbing and a place dear to his heart I suspect.

I bet you ask nice hell post up here if he's not been contracted to do an article is some mag and required to keep quiet until it hits the shelves.

Try this?

Mr. croft any chance you might tell us about your time in Kings Canyon this summer?

PLEEEEEEEAAAAAASSSSSSSEEEEEE!
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Nov 7, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
Another bump for Peter.

I was also wondering if there had been any further consideration for the names of the routes that Peter and Lisa put up on Merriam.

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/contiguous-united-states-lower-48/california/2011-merriam-peak-two-new-routes-by-peter-croft-aac/

I climbed the "left" route and thought it was amazing and deserved a name!

Psyched to hear some good stories.

 Luke
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 7, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
I'd still like to see pics of that thing him and Conrad Anker climbed in Pakistan back when (98) Spansar Brakk? An 8000' 5.11 simulclimb?

If I recall correctly all the pics were interdicted for some North Face ad campaign that never came out
The Alpine

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 06:47am PT
C'mon Pete...
Sonic

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2012 - 07:50am PT
Climbing Info Bump
dave

climber
Earth
Nov 8, 2012 - 07:51am PT
He's probably down in the gorge climbing right now as the weather is gonna suck and be cold for a few days. Super windy right now.
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:04am PT
Angel Wings is one the most inspiring peaks.....i psyched to see Nettles presentation at Squaw on Wednesday. I hope he talks about the climb some....

Greg
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 8, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
I don't want to hammer on your line and need a topo! : )
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
Wings bump...

peter croft

climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
We had a blast in there - had the luck to be in the right place and the right time (course it took 4 or 5 times between us in as many years to find that luck) If you check the pic that GF sent in the line is in the center of the shot - the sweeping buttress between light and shade (just left of some black streaks) Real varied - low angle to overhanging face, thin cracks to chimneys and about twice as tall as the Hulk. We called it Valkyrie - google that and you'll find a bunch of good reasons to die in battle. The next day I took off into the next valley and climbed the Saber Ridge. Heard it was good - Man, like Mathes Crest except in another league of good. Of course we apologize for not reporting earlier. Speaking for myself, before I could facebook, post, tweet and twerp I first had to catch up on Tivo-ed episodes of Daily Show and some primo adventures of Archer. I'm sure the others had equally important stuff to do as well. As far as Merriam goes, the left route is the Flying Buttress and the right one is Gargoyle. Went back in with Andy Puhvel this summer for a long day and did both again. Both of us thought the right route was even better. We also thought the last half mile to the car is actually more like 4 or 5
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 8, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
Cool! I'm glad you had (what I assume is) a successful summer. There is just SO MUCH ROCK out in the sierra it is NUTS! I scrambled around for 4 or 5 hours through brush to look at some dinky 40 foot decomposed chosspiles in San Diego, keep forgetting that up north there is, like, ROCK climbing.



Weird, huh!??!

Good on you for catching up on Archer, I'd hate to miss out RuPauls Drag Race All-Stars for any rock climbing.

You think I'm joking......

:]
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
Hey Peter! Nice to see you on supertopo...your description of the location sounds like the same general zone as "Devil Made Me Do It!" a route I did with Urmas Franosch some years ago, not all free though... Like to see your line drawn in somehow...

Peter Mayfield
The Alpine

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
Thanks for the info Peter! That's a striking line for sure.

Not to be selfish or anything, but.......











































....ya got a topo??

Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 8, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
Topos take time Alpine. The map must represent the quality of the climb.
micronut

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
Thanks for the mini report Peter. What a great send. And Reilly, amazing photo man!
micronut

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
WHoah....look what I found about The Sabre Ridge somewhere online in the AAJ.

Looks loco good.

Credit: micronut
micronut

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
And The Prism. Is this stuff in the "next valley over" you were talking about Peter?

Credit: micronut

I think the green line in the background is on The Sabre Ridge.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
Nothing to see here people. Everything in SEKI is ugly and choss. No reason to leave Yosemite. Looked at sabre ridge this summer and I think it's just made out of dirt anyway :)

Angel Wings
Angel Wings
Credit: limpingcrab
Hamilton Lake and Angel Wings
Hamilton Lake and Angel Wings
Credit: limpingcrab

justdave

Trad climber
Garrison, NY
Nov 8, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
Hi Micronut (or anyone else!):

Do you have any more beta on The Prism besides that photo that you posted? Looks amazing!

Cheers,
David
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 8, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
This is about all that's out there:

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/contiguous-united-states-lower-48/california/2010-sequoia-np-tamarack-area-by-b-thau/

If you're wondering where the prizm is:

36 35.404'N, 118 34.377'W



Looking forward to hearing more about the new route on Angel Wings! I'm guessing it's hard, just a hunch.
Jiggler

Trad climber
SoCal
Nov 8, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
Previous TR that included video of Saber Ridge. Glad to hear Peter speak so highly of it.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Matthes-Crest-Actually-I-prefer-Saber-Ridge/t11205n.html
Michelle

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Nov 8, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
Archer, awesome!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 8, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
You have my permission to draw on this.
Angel Wings, from the waterfall.
Angel Wings, from the waterfall.
Credit: Spider Savage
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 9, 2012 - 12:16am PT
Just pick the biggest, baddest line. That's the one they did.

Some awesome photos here btw.
grubs

climber
Nov 9, 2012 - 09:59am PT
On the first ascent of Left Facet (route A in the photo posted above) we had trouble finding a clean path through the steep roofy section right at the bottom of the prism. We finally settled on a line that passed mostly to the left of the roofs, but there was one 20 foot section of steep blank rock. I got some good gear in a horizontal below the blank section and made a few moves into some dicey friction pockets. That's when I made the mistake of looking down. I started thinking about how fun it would be to try and crawl out 15 miles on a broken ankle. Yep. Good thing "sierra hardman" Brandon Thau was there. He eats 5.10 friction pockets for breakfast. The next 8 pitches we lost ourselves in fields of low angle cracks and seas of giant chicken heads. Amazing route, but don't underestimate pitch 2.
locker

Social climber
Nov 9, 2012 - 10:02am PT
THREAD DRIFT:

There are some BEAUTIFUL photo's on this thread...

This one just one example...

...

NICE!!!...




EDITED:

Really WOULD make a cool poster...

;-)

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 9, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
great thread
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Nov 9, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
Love it-bump!
The Alpine

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
Saber is on the top of the hit list for sure.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Nov 10, 2012 - 07:47am PT
The whole valley is great and away from the crowds
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Nov 10, 2012 - 07:48am PT
day dream inducing thread, love it!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 10, 2012 - 10:28am PT
How about Saber ridge 2013 as a supertopo meet? lol Or would that defeat the reason to get out somewhere less popular?

The Alpine

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
I think its safe to assume that not many would actually make the trek back there, and those that did would be a good group to be with.
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Nov 10, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
This thread is giving me ideas. Always dangerous. Ha ha!

Thanks for the posts, enjoying this one.

Eric
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
Nov 10, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
By far my favorite thread on the front page now...sabre and prism look epic...
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 10, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
agreed! I want to play out there!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 10, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
Ok. ST gathering 2013- expedition to Saber Ridge/Prism/Angel Wings..early June? Will Peter Croft join? ;)
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 10, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
Can I catch a ride? I am IN IN IN.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Nov 10, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
Oh yeah me too, I'm in!!! lemme know if I can play too...
phile

Trad climber
SF, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:56am PT
nobody climbs there anymore; it's too crowded.
pix4u

climber
Sonoma, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:13am PT
Yet another photo of Angel Wings and Hamilton Creek.
Yet another photo of Angel Wings and Hamilton Creek.
Credit: pix4u
pix4u

climber
Sonoma, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:16am PT
And the not too distant Hamilton Dome.
And the not too distant Hamilton Dome.
Credit: pix4u
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:47am PT
There is plenty of rock. We all can play! Would be cool to meet more people

Angel Wings and Hamilton Dome from the Fortress
Angel Wings and Hamilton Dome from the Fortress
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
I just re-found the video "Painted Spider" where Peter Croft free solos The Rostrum. Does this film exist as a dvd?
Credit: Marlow
The Alpine

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
Update from Sergeant Nettle over on this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1986334/Angel-Wings-new-route-the-scoop

Angel Wings: Valkyrie Nettle/Croft/Thau/Epperson September 3, 2012
Angel Wings: Valkyrie Nettle/Croft/Thau/Epperson September 3, 2012
Credit: alpinist
Redwood

Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
Angel Wings. I was there last year.

Credit: Redwood

Credit: Redwood
Hardrock

Trad climber
San Bernardino
Nov 14, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Peter, Greg, Dave and Bran, dreams come true just a lot of hard work. Mike's photo is still very inspiring. If bran hasn't shown it to you, take a look. I ought to order up a few for the four of you so you guys can autograph and date it. Good name for it, you set another standard. Wish I was watching from the summit of Boy Scout Peak when you all finished. I recall from the summit of Stewart a wall blocks the the view. Congratulation! Great Job! HARDROCK
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Gawd! I had forgotten how beautiful that view is of the Dome (not really a dome - just looks like one from this perspective). It's exactly this view that drew Herbert and me to it in July 1971.

From the 1972 American Alpine Journal:

"Having chosen an impossible line on Angels Wings and having succeeded in proving it impossible, TM Herbert and I cast our eyes across Hamilton Creek to the north ridge of Hamilton Lakes Dome or Peak 9770. This prominent feature southwest of the lowest Hamilton Lake had been climbed twice before via the east ridge. Our approach was long and required forethought and success with a mossy jam crack. The climb was beautiful with seven pitches of fifth class straight up the arete - face climbing, crack climbing, good rock, bad rock, and excellent nut placements. We descended via the fourth class eastern route. NCCS II 5.7"

I'm not sure, but I think this AAJ entry is what gave Peak 9770 its name- Hamilton Lakes Dome.
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
A bump to sync with the Angel Wings thread
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
Don, do you have any photos of your line. Sounds classic! And I agree regarding the imortance to keep these threads on the front page! Cool stuff!
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 15, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
No photos. We just walked(?)up to the base at its lowest point and started climbing. Route finding wasn't a problem - it was obvious.
Gobie

Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
Nov 18, 2012 - 12:59am PT
Angel Wings Summit
Angel Wings Summit
Credit: Gobie
"Go big or go home" pitch. Just A rock in The Park, Angel Wings.
"Go big or go home" pitch. Just A rock in The Park, Angel Wings.
Credit: Gobie
Angel Wings
Angel Wings
Credit: Gobie
Ed Joe and Dick Leversee after the "Beckey Hammock" bivi.
Ed Joe and Dick Leversee after the "Beckey Hammock" bivi.
Credit: Gobie
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 18, 2012 - 01:18am PT
Wow. Awesome photos! What an amazing formation.
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Nov 18, 2012 - 10:41am PT

not every route needs a topo and a TR.
The Alpine

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 10:56am PT
Angel Wings: Valkyrie Nettle/Croft/Thau/Epperson September 3, 2012
Angel Wings: Valkyrie Nettle/Croft/Thau/Epperson September 3, 2012
Credit: alpinist

Theres a classic Nettle Topo on the other thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1986334/Angel-Wings-new-route-the-scoop
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Aug 6, 2013 - 11:31am PT
I just got back from Tamarack Lake last week. We did Sabre Ridge and the Right Facet on the Prism. Sabre is outstanding! The Right Facet is OK. We found two old 1/4 inch bolts on the route, indicating an ascent in the late 70's - early 80's. To the right of Sabre Ridge are two 400' towers. SP Parker and I climbed a two pitch route on the south face of the righthand tower (5.9).

Wonderful area! It's starting to see some traffic - let's hope it doesn't get too crazy!
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