| Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic |
The Alpine
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 7, 2012 - 07:19am PT
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What did you guys do on Angel Wings this summer??
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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"Summit day started at 3 am with a little bit of food and just the right amount of too much coffee."
love this quote.
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The Alpine
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:25am PT
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Wow, thats an allstar lineup, most likely having put an all stars line up. Croft, Nettle, Thau and Eppi!
Brandon - you around?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Worked on Eppi after this adventure, should be good to read about it and see some photos. Glad it went well and the route finally got finished.
Peacee
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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I saw Vitaliy's link as well and was wondering about that about a month ago. It's hard to believe that they didn't even bother naming the route. Too bad PC wouldn't post here - we might just never find out.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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He posted like a mofo in the Squamish thread. Maybe this will resurrect him
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Brandon - you around?
I'm here.
Just goofing off, I'd like to hear about this as well. Nettle is one of those dudes I look up to.
I'm not Brandon Thau.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Maybe if we mention his name in this thread enough, he will get sick of it, and write us a TR so we shut up?
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Who are you referring to, Peter Croft or Brandon Thau or Dave Nettle or Greg Epperson?
They all post here.
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gf
climber
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Would love it if they draw their line on that photo. Angel Wings is a beautiful peak. Hope to make a trek to that area next year.
Yummm
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Silver
Ice climber
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He posts in the Squamish thread because its about climbing and a place dear to his heart I suspect.
I bet you ask nice hell post up here if he's not been contracted to do an article is some mag and required to keep quiet until it hits the shelves.
Try this?
Mr. croft any chance you might tell us about your time in Kings Canyon this summer?
PLEEEEEEEAAAAAASSSSSSSEEEEEE!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I'd still like to see pics of that thing him and Conrad Anker climbed in Pakistan back when (98) Spansar Brakk? An 8000' 5.11 simulclimb?
If I recall correctly all the pics were interdicted for some North Face ad campaign that never came out
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The Alpine
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 06:47am PT
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C'mon Pete...
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Climbing Info Bump
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dave
climber
Earth
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He's probably down in the gorge climbing right now as the weather is gonna suck and be cold for a few days. Super windy right now.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Angel Wings is one the most inspiring peaks.....i psyched to see Nettles presentation at Squaw on Wednesday. I hope he talks about the climb some....
Greg
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I don't want to hammer on your line and need a topo! : )
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Wings bump...
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peter croft
climber
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We had a blast in there - had the luck to be in the right place and the right time (course it took 4 or 5 times between us in as many years to find that luck) If you check the pic that GF sent in the line is in the center of the shot - the sweeping buttress between light and shade (just left of some black streaks) Real varied - low angle to overhanging face, thin cracks to chimneys and about twice as tall as the Hulk. We called it Valkyrie - google that and you'll find a bunch of good reasons to die in battle. The next day I took off into the next valley and climbed the Saber Ridge. Heard it was good - Man, like Mathes Crest except in another league of good. Of course we apologize for not reporting earlier. Speaking for myself, before I could facebook, post, tweet and twerp I first had to catch up on Tivo-ed episodes of Daily Show and some primo adventures of Archer. I'm sure the others had equally important stuff to do as well. As far as Merriam goes, the left route is the Flying Buttress and the right one is Gargoyle. Went back in with Andy Puhvel this summer for a long day and did both again. Both of us thought the right route was even better. We also thought the last half mile to the car is actually more like 4 or 5
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Cool! I'm glad you had (what I assume is) a successful summer. There is just SO MUCH ROCK out in the sierra it is NUTS! I scrambled around for 4 or 5 hours through brush to look at some dinky 40 foot decomposed chosspiles in San Diego, keep forgetting that up north there is, like, ROCK climbing.
Weird, huh!??!
Good on you for catching up on Archer, I'd hate to miss out RuPauls Drag Race All-Stars for any rock climbing.
You think I'm joking......
:]
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Hey Peter! Nice to see you on supertopo...your description of the location sounds like the same general zone as "Devil Made Me Do It!" a route I did with Urmas Franosch some years ago, not all free though... Like to see your line drawn in somehow...
Peter Mayfield
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The Alpine
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Thanks for the info Peter! That's a striking line for sure.
Not to be selfish or anything, but.......
....ya got a topo??
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topos take time Alpine. The map must represent the quality of the climb.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Thanks for the mini report Peter. What a great send. And Reilly, amazing photo man!
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micronut
Trad climber
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WHoah....look what I found about The Sabre Ridge somewhere online in the AAJ.
Looks loco good.
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micronut
Trad climber
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And The Prism. Is this stuff in the "next valley over" you were talking about Peter?
I think the green line in the background is on The Sabre Ridge.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Nothing to see here people. Everything in SEKI is ugly and choss. No reason to leave Yosemite. Looked at sabre ridge this summer and I think it's just made out of dirt anyway :)
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justdave
Trad climber
Garrison, NY
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Hi Micronut (or anyone else!):
Do you have any more beta on The Prism besides that photo that you posted? Looks amazing!
Cheers,
David
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Michelle
Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Archer, awesome!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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You have my permission to draw on this.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Just pick the biggest, baddest line. That's the one they did.
Some awesome photos here btw.
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grubs
climber
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On the first ascent of Left Facet (route A in the photo posted above) we had trouble finding a clean path through the steep roofy section right at the bottom of the prism. We finally settled on a line that passed mostly to the left of the roofs, but there was one 20 foot section of steep blank rock. I got some good gear in a horizontal below the blank section and made a few moves into some dicey friction pockets. That's when I made the mistake of looking down. I started thinking about how fun it would be to try and crawl out 15 miles on a broken ankle. Yep. Good thing "sierra hardman" Brandon Thau was there. He eats 5.10 friction pockets for breakfast. The next 8 pitches we lost ourselves in fields of low angle cracks and seas of giant chicken heads. Amazing route, but don't underestimate pitch 2.
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locker
Social climber
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THREAD DRIFT:
There are some BEAUTIFUL photo's on this thread...
This one just one example...
 ...
NICE!!!...
EDITED:
Really WOULD make a cool poster...
;-)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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great thread
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Love it-bump!
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The Alpine
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
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Saber is on the top of the hit list for sure.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Nov 10, 2012 - 07:47am PT
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The whole valley is great and away from the crowds
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Nov 10, 2012 - 07:48am PT
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day dream inducing thread, love it!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 10, 2012 - 10:28am PT
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How about Saber ridge 2013 as a supertopo meet? lol Or would that defeat the reason to get out somewhere less popular?
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The Alpine
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
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I think its safe to assume that not many would actually make the trek back there, and those that did would be a good group to be with.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
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Nov 10, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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This thread is giving me ideas. Always dangerous. Ha ha!
Thanks for the posts, enjoying this one.
Eric
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Nov 10, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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By far my favorite thread on the front page now...sabre and prism look epic...
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 10, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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agreed! I want to play out there!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 10, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Ok. ST gathering 2013- expedition to Saber Ridge/Prism/Angel Wings..early June? Will Peter Croft join? ;)
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 10, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
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Can I catch a ride? I am IN IN IN.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Nov 10, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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Oh yeah me too, I'm in!!! lemme know if I can play too...
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 08:56am PT
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nobody climbs there anymore; it's too crowded.
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:13am PT
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:16am PT
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:47am PT
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There is plenty of rock. We all can play! Would be cool to meet more people
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 14, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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I just re-found the video "Painted Spider" where Peter Croft free solos The Rostrum. Does this film exist as a dvd?
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Redwood
Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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Angel Wings. I was there last year.
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Hardrock
Trad climber
San Bernardino
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Nov 14, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Peter, Greg, Dave and Bran, dreams come true just a lot of hard work. Mike's photo is still very inspiring. If bran hasn't shown it to you, take a look. I ought to order up a few for the four of you so you guys can autograph and date it. Good name for it, you set another standard. Wish I was watching from the summit of Boy Scout Peak when you all finished. I recall from the summit of Stewart a wall blocks the the view. Congratulation! Great Job! HARDROCK
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Gawd! I had forgotten how beautiful that view is of the Dome (not really a dome - just looks like one from this perspective). It's exactly this view that drew Herbert and me to it in July 1971.
From the 1972 American Alpine Journal:
"Having chosen an impossible line on Angels Wings and having succeeded in proving it impossible, TM Herbert and I cast our eyes across Hamilton Creek to the north ridge of Hamilton Lakes Dome or Peak 9770. This prominent feature southwest of the lowest Hamilton Lake had been climbed twice before via the east ridge. Our approach was long and required forethought and success with a mossy jam crack. The climb was beautiful with seven pitches of fifth class straight up the arete - face climbing, crack climbing, good rock, bad rock, and excellent nut placements. We descended via the fourth class eastern route. NCCS II 5.7"
I'm not sure, but I think this AAJ entry is what gave Peak 9770 its name- Hamilton Lakes Dome.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 14, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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A bump to sync with the Angel Wings thread
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 14, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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Don, do you have any photos of your line. Sounds classic! And I agree regarding the imortance to keep these threads on the front page! Cool stuff!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
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No photos. We just walked(?)up to the base at its lowest point and started climbing. Route finding wasn't a problem - it was obvious.
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Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
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Nov 18, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 18, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Wow. Awesome photos! What an amazing formation.
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Nov 18, 2012 - 10:41am PT
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not every route needs a topo and a TR.
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| Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Luke
Let us know!