Ashira and 14c- Thoughts?

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The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:00am PT
Question for all those who think Ashima has an advantage because of her strength to weight ratio, what do you have to say about her much shorter reach? Is that some sort of advantage, too:-)

Why equate one physical requirement with another, or make them interdependent?

Obviously, if she can't reach a hold, she's at as much disadvantage as a pudgy person with a long reach.

Do you disagree that if she can reach the holds the higher strength:weight ratio would help a lot?

I've seen lizards climb stuff I can't. They have short arms, too.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:17am PT
Everybody doing the hardest grades of any aspect of this sport have genetic advantages.

and all climbing is dangerous. Some of the best trad climbers around like Largo and Lynne Hill have decked in the gym.

PEace

Karl
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:30am PT
If you watch the top men in the Olympics doing the Roman Rings, their strength to weight ratio is amazing. My guess is that with a few months training and practice, they could do some very hard climbing moves. The skill set is not entirely the same, but a lot would carry over.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:29am PT
She doesn't have to stick with the sport to have made her mark. We all have different paths. She's bad ass now, and I'll bet if she wants to be bad ass later, she will be

As a point of language, "bad ass" doesn't mean merely being good at something, except perhaps by slipshod extension.
Can we just agree that she's very good at holding onto small holds? And that at least part of that is because she's small and smaller people are better at holding onto small holds than larger people? This isn't that complicated.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:50am PT
Can we just agree that she's very good at holding onto small holds? And that at least part of that is because she's small and smaller people are better at holding onto small holds than larger people? This isn't that complicated.

Because it's demeaning. People used to say stuff like that about Beth before she freed the Nose and climbed 5.13 cracks. Placing gear is not rocket science. It takes a LOT more than crimping to climb 5.14+.

Yes she has an advantage. Everybody who climbs 5.14+ has an advantage. Everybody who wins an olympic gymnastic gold medal has an advantage as well but you still have to perfect the double twisting flips and such

Peace

Karl
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Dec 10, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
"
The oblivious self-caricature in this statement is priceless. no wonder people dismiss this forum as a bunch of irrelevant , has-been blowhards. "

IMO, calling someone a "has been" implies that at one point, they were actually someone. There's less than 20 people in total on this forum who were ever actually someone who at some point accomplished anything anyone would care about.

The rest are what is known as a "never was", and the only ones with anything negative to say are in that group.

Anyone see Ament, Gill, Coz, Long, RickA (or imagine bachar were he still here) making such comments?

Of course not, and here is why:

In any sport, there is an inverse relationship between skill and ego. We are seeing the output of that formula right here, in real time.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 10, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
Anyone see Ament, Gill, Coz, Long, RickA (or imagine bachar were he still here) making such comments?

Of course not, and here is why:

In any sport, there is an inverse relationship between skill and ego. We are seeing the output of that formula right here, in real time.

Folks like Bachar and others had plenty of ego. That doesn't mean they had to put down the accomplishments of others.

I'd bet anything the lady would still be able to pull 5.14 when she is 20 if she sticks with it, the rest of the kids wonders who stuck with it seem to be able to

Peace

Karl
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Dec 10, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
I'd bet anything the lady would still be able to pull 5.14 when she is 20 if she sticks with it, the rest of the kids wonders who stuck with it seem to be able to
How would you have any idea? Maybe the ones who "stuck with it" were the ones who could adapt well to adult climbing, and the "wonder kids" who couldn't tended to quit?
Lots of funny conjecture and projecting on this thread, that's for sure, no matter which side of the "debate" you're on.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Dec 10, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
Well, i'm not a genius here, but judging by how small her parents are, she won't grow THAT MUCH. She'll still be strong. It's not like a 2 1/2 foot tall 7 year old pulling on 5.12d who hasn't hit the grow spurt to be 6'2 yet.


You old hater f*cks are tossers.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 10, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
How would you have any idea? Maybe the ones who "stuck with it" were the ones who could adapt well to adult climbing, and the "wonder kids" who couldn't tended to quit?
Lots of funny conjecture and projecting on this thread, that's for sure, no matter which side of the "debate" you're on.

Because I've been climbing for over 30 years and seen sh#t. It's not like we see kids climb 5.14 and then get weaker as they reach puberty and quit because of that. It's more like they either find other things to do in life or keep shredding it.

Kauk quit for years and years but came back stronger.

Of course the same goes of all of us. Some of us get fat or weak and some don't. The unusual thing is that we're ragging on this 11 year old kid who has done things (like onsight 5.14) that a few years ago hadn't been done in the history of climbing by ANYONE of any age or size

Peace

Karl
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 10, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
Jesus. I just scanned as much of this thread as I could stomach. C'mon people. Is this question serious? Really?!
jstan

climber
Dec 10, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
What Ashira does is her business. The only question she needs to ask is, "Did I enjoy what I did today?"

Everything else is noise.
Burchey

Mountain climber
San Diego
Dec 10, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
I'm so glad I have a large penis so I don't have to sweat ratings while climbing.
SeaClimb

climber
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
blahblah,

Do you actually know any of these kids that can climb 5.13 or 5.14? I'm thinking you don't. They are very very skilled at much more than crimping small holds. Many of them have phenomenal slab climbing (true friction). A lot of them are excellent crack climbers (yes, offwidth as well).

Their dynoing capability is off the chart. They are highly versed in gymnastic climbing.

In short, they will pretty much crush you in any type of climbing.

They don't have the limitations of needing to work, they have summers off, most of them have parents that fund trips. They have coaches that know what they are doing and they have PASSION for climbing. You simply can not compete, not that you are. I only state this because your posts seem to have an underlying current of "Well, its really not that hard FOR HER".
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