Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
nb3000
Gym climber
Oakland, CA.
|
|
|
May 23, 2006 - 08:16pm PT
|
I'm a n00b compared to some of the goats on here, so I could be way off base ...
I'd say a person can climb up to 5.12's without any formal strength training. Proper technique and the strength/endurance built naturally just thru climbing will get you far. But if you wanna see 5.13 and beyond you're going to need training of some kind.
Most climbers benefit from fat loss more than they do from absolute strength gains.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
May 23, 2006 - 11:23pm PT
|
Another thing is you can't totally revamp your basic explosive strength quotient--it has to do with fast twitch fibers which can be increased only so much. Endurance training can work wonders, however.
But I agree that loosing weight is probably the quickest path to more strength, providing you're already working out. I always felt my strongest after three months of starving in the Trench, or after an expedition or a few walls. But my set point was always around 210 so I couldn't stay light for long.
Because the thinner, ligher folk have such a weight-to-strength advantage, they will always shine most brightly on bouldering and sport routes. I think for most, once you're above about 155 or 160 lbs (tops), it's a game of diminishing returns.
JL
|
|
hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
|
|
|
May 23, 2006 - 11:50pm PT
|
On that note I recall the day that Dave Altman followed me on the Gripper (10 b) at Arch Rock in the Valley in 77' or 78'.
Dave had a very hard time on the route, though he could do multiple one-arm pullups; I could not do a single one arm myself.
|
|
pyro
Trad climber
Ventura
|
|
|
May 24, 2006 - 07:42am PT
|
#99 wayne gretzky
|
|
Blight
Social climber
|
|
|
May 24, 2006 - 08:44am PT
|
malcolm smith.
super human.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
May 24, 2006 - 11:11am PT
|
Jack Lalane?
|
|
NinjaChimp
climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
May 24, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
|
There's a guy from the south named James Litz that is all tendons, skinny as hell and can crimp a shadow. If you've ever seen him climb you know what I mean.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
|
|
|
May 24, 2006 - 07:52pm PT
|
Yo Spencer
Altman followed me up English Breakfast in 77.
Watching him do the crux I couldn't tell that it
was any harder than 5.6.
You may not recall, but we met at the red schoolhouse
election day 76. Climbed a little in the Valley.
Glad you're still around!! Steve m
|
|
jwmatney
Gym climber
Clayton,CA
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2016 - 02:33pm PT
|
I came across this old posting about strength to weight ratio. It was great reading the nice things people had to say about my cousin, Dave Altman.
|
|
cintune
climber
Ollin Arageed Space
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
|
Today it's all kids, for obvious reasons. Ashima Shiraishi, Cameron Hörst, etc. A whole new generation of little mutant sending machines.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!