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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2006 - 01:41pm PT
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stay tuned for the next trip report, especially "4th class" descents where the rhodo's play a major role...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 11, 2006 - 02:23pm PT
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Don't take it down! I was just teasin'...There might not be enough Central Pillars for all, but there's more than enough obscurity. One could spend seasons just trying to find and climb abelgabel's routes alone.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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May 11, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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I think 'manzanita' is Spanish for 'red-barked, prickly rhodo'.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 11, 2006 - 03:13pm PT
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Roger asked:
> But I have a question for those of you who were talking about the outer face of the Phantom Pinnacle. There are three pitches. The first has the lunge that Clint said that he climbed without a lunge (way to go Clint!) followed by a 5.10a crack, which Clint seems to say may be 5.10d and his partner used aid on. Is this right Clint, or are you taking about the 3rd pitch, which is (was) rated 5.10d?
Sorry, my rather terse trip report was not very clear. My partner aided the lunge (or reach) move on the first pitch, which is rated 5.10d in the guidebook. The remainder of the first pitch is 5.8 wide to 5.10a thin.
> The second is 5.8 on lower angle rock, with a traverse to the left as Werner says, on spooky looking and sounding flakes.
According my marked-up topo from '91, the second pitch starts with 5.8 wide hand in a small RFC, then lower angle 4th class to a narrow ledge on the left (where the 1982 Meyers guide says "loose"). We traversed left on this ledge past one crack and then face climbed up to a 5.8 R mantle. The next section would be a traverse right to regain the crack line below the roof which is below the left traverse shown on the topo.
I wish I could remember why we did not climb straight up the crack line indicated on the topo (where the Meyers topo says "loose"). Perhaps something fell off there and made it hard. Maybe it's time for another exploration and some new protection with your permission, if we are convinced something fell off there to alter the route significantly. Got any slides from the FA?
>The last pitch is a really steep and very fine hand crack in the back of a shallow right facing corner. Mike led it in really fine style. I remember making a long reach from a good hand jam to a much higher hand jam on a very steep part to pass a thin section of the crack.
Sounds nice! Wish we could have reached it!
>I also think that Clint's comment: "...large block trundling. It looked somewhat broken; I don't know why some people had recommended it to me!" is in reference to the regular route not the one he was on. Is this correct, Clint?
Yes, the other party was trundling blocks on the regular route, which looked somewhat broken as we rapped down it.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2006 - 03:44pm PT
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Melissa, I only said I was prepared to take the report down, but everyone should know that this stuff is truely ephemeral...
Swellymon, the list is an interesting innovation, the simplest list was to sort the database of all reported YV climbs requring only Roper citations and no other. While it is not strictly "really obscure" these are obscure enough. As for Les Wilson-Max Heinritz routes on the to-do list (none ticked yet):
Slabs, The 5.6 A2 II Ribbon Falls
Rappel Chimney, The 5.7 A3 III Ribbon Falls
Hidden Chimney 5.7 A2 IV Ribbon Falls
Hanging Boulders, The 5.6 A3 III Ribbon Falls
Lower Cathedral Spire, Lower North Face 5.7 A2 IV
A quick look at the list shows that there is no one who posts here that FA'd or FFA'd the climbs.
I have an informal list wtih some obscurities with the normal suspects as FA and who do post here. But I will respect their continued obscurity and let them post.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 12, 2006 - 12:13am PT
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Ed,
Thanks for the TR.
See ya on the rock.
Zander
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zBrown
Ice climber
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It would be a lot easier to play in this one if the photos hadn't disappeared.
Nostalgia Bump.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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It looks like Doc H's storage vault is no longer active.
Maybe he'll remember just what he was posting 10 years ago. Probably will.
I will, however, take notice of the rather stellar list of posters and lack of acrimony amongst and between them.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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^^^had to look up acrimony, nice;)
thought this might be about Yucca Valley. Jtree's Great! but Yucca's got some shidizzle too..
Jus Josh'in
Ain't kidding when i say, This is the Real Deal Dream of Adventure Thread!
Hat's off to the Hartouni's and Gable's out there uncovering more myths..
:)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2016 - 09:32pm PT
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I am involved in another project that has sucked time away from reconstituting my web site that Comcast/Xfinity shut down last year...
when I complete that project I intend to resurrect these threads with the images...
it is a wonder that we stand in that fantastic place and can only see so few climbs.
Once upon a time as relayed by Roger Breedlove, he pointed out to Jim Bridwell the line that would become Central Pillar of Frenzy and The Bird commanded that they avert their stare so as not to alert some other climber as to the line and their intention...
...I don't think that's a problem anymore.
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