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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 18, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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I remember reading in the 1985 Campbell guide that this thing was "5.11+ to the lip" which is apparently some kind of sandbag
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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Ha, Magic Ed's on here! How are things in the Potrero, Ed?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jul 19, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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I thought Dave did a good job on the video of Will scrambling on the Zombie. Will's a sincere, dedicated and talented young climber and I was honored to be asked to show my mug and say a few words.
Will and his friends are continuing the trend set by the likes of Sutton and Burton, Croft and Fraser (and many of us lower life forms) and embracing a strong relationship with The Valley, it's itinerant denizens and the bigger world of climbing outside Squamish.
His solo of the Zombie is no hare brained publicity grab but rather, an expression of dedication and mastery in the finest traditions of granite free climbing.
When I lurched over the lip on the second ascent many years ago, I would have hurled at the thought of someone soloing it. Well, things certainly have changed and each generation forges ahead and raises the bar.
To keep things in perspective, Will 3rd classed the Alaska Highway a while back and word around the campfire is that he's hiked Sentry Box and Separate Reality as well.
Great stuff, way to go Will and nice bit of film making on Dave's part.
PB
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Nicely said Perry, and good narrative on the video. It helped those very familiar and and clueless about the Zombie Woof, put in perspective Will's ascent.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Jul 19, 2012 - 03:42am PT
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Chief,
Both you and Will seemed very genuine and filled with awesomeness.
In a day and age where I connect with fewer and fewer climbers, I would be stoked to share a campfire with either of you.
Thanks to all invovled for some filmmaking with genuine character.
or maybe it's just cuz your all candadian, and not 'mercans.
I found your commentary as inspiring as Will's sending.
Cheers!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 19, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Great video, liked the history of the route, then the history of the climber and route, finally the climber making history on the route. Thanks for the video link S. Leeper.
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br60
Trad climber
Jasper, Alberta to the Wet Coast
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Jul 19, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Great film! I especially enjoyed Perry's very articulate commentary. Nice to see/hear him - a good choice for the backstory.
br
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 19, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Nice job Perry.
Like John Bachar said years ago, there is no feeling like hanging off a bomber finger lock way off the ground, with both feet pasted on the rock and the other hand in the chalkbag; it is a feeling of total control, physically and mentally. Something along those lines anyway.
Will kind of reminds me of myself, a couple of generations ago. I even used to look like him, just shorter, weaker, and not nearly as good. I'm thinking we both used the same brand hairbrush.
Will has developed a skill level that is off the charts, both physical and mental. He is unquestionably world-class at what he does and we should all be extremely proud of this quiet guy from North Vancouver.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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I guess, like the brush, that one went over your head. I'm 47 and still don't own a hairbrush.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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Well done video, not at all over-produced, as someone upthread said. I enjoyed Perry's commentary, and Will made the climbing look so easy. I had the privilege of meeting Will the other night. Gentle, funny, unassuming guy, climbing at a level so far off the scale I can't begin to comprehend it.
Great job, Will!
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TFPU
Sport climber
Idaho
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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Soloing for the camera... it just doesn't get lamer than that.
Where does bagging on other climbers on an internet forum fall on the "doesn't get lamer than that list"?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
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A boy and his dog. Plus Will regularly climbs with his father.
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VTP
Boulder climber
ATX
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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pretty amazing video i thought.
stanhope is one of the strongest in the world and so humble to boot.
Cant beat it. that video gets me psyched!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Not to take anything away from a bold free solo and I'm sure Will is a fabulous climber who just makes it look that easy, but is that really a 12d? Are the holds / jams up in the crack really that insecure? Will's talent aside, from the moves and the holds that are visible it just doesn't look 12d to me as someone who's done a lot of roofs in the past.
I asked Anders and he verified that is the correct rating, but it just doesn't look like it from the video. Anyone here been on it - is that rating hard, soft, just right?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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I would imagine that if he couldn't make 12d look like 10a he wouldn't be able to free solo it .. at least not with honest confidence.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 19, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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It's pretty simple. Will makes it look like 5.10 because he's so damn gooood. It's like watching Bachar solo routes; 5.7, 5.12, who knows? You certainly can't (couldn't) tell from watching.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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ok vid, but really nice music
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jul 19, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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That was beautiful!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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One sure way to confirm the grade.......hop on eh?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Woooof wooooooof tha zombie wooooof!
Hehe, that ain't no 5.10 wooof. Har har. Thats just Will making wooofs look easy.
Ya in this thread, Chief got the second ascent on it and Hamish F has done it too. Were those ascents with pre placed gear?
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