Daisy Death revisited

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Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2006 - 04:23pm PT
With the latest daisy scare rearing its ugly head again, I did a couple of tests that you might find interesting. I guess the only real questions I have now are:
1. Should we even be making daisy chains with just a small loop at the end?
2. Should we be only making daisy chains that a clove-able end loop?
3. Should we only make daisy chains with the yet to be named "insert".
4. Please advise....


















here are the questions again:
1. Should we even be making daisy chains with just a small loop at the end?
2. Should we be only making daisy chains that a clove-able end loop?
3. Should we only make daisy chains with the yet to be named "insert".
4. Please advise....
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Apr 27, 2006 - 04:35pm PT
Nice idea on the insert Fish.

Why can't you just use runner-strength bartacks for every pocket on the thing? Cost? Weight? Too stiff? Dumb idea?

Please advise.

DMT
zardoz

Trad climber
Austin, TX
Apr 27, 2006 - 04:36pm PT
Say Russ, I'm not really up to speed on this issue/thang. Why is clipping the end loop like the first photo the Bad Business? I thought the thing to avoid was accidentally clipping only one of the bar tacks between loops, which puts you out of the system when it blows. Otherwise with all of the pockets blown you should still have one big loop with a six someodd bar tack keeping it together.

Like I said, pardon my ignorance. I always have enjoyed your tech weenie stuff. And don't forget those beers I bought you years ago on Paypal. Ha! The photo illustrations rock, btw.
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Apr 27, 2006 - 04:38pm PT
5. Buy adjustable daisies.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Apr 27, 2006 - 04:39pm PT
Most excellent Daisy Death™ report and analysis, Russ.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 04:44pm PT
Check this thread for more info and the great BD video of "Daisy Death"™™™™™
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=182550&f=35&b=0

DMT: ladder style daisy chains used to be around. Not sure where they went. Usually boils down to time and money. Lot's O labor in a ladder style daisy. I'll look into it.

Fet: adjustable has the fatal flaw of if it busts, there is no next pocket to catch you. Single strand failure = lights out. If I could clean up my desk I could find the BS data on Adjutables and failures.
fatman

climber
Apr 27, 2006 - 04:47pm PT
hey russ,

can you make me two of those?
zardoz

Trad climber
Austin, TX
Apr 27, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
This is the direct link to a nice video showing the shiznits:

http://www.bdel.com/videos/daisy.html
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Apr 27, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
Just clove hitch the end and be done with it already.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
Hey Dirt... try that with 1" loop at the end. Get your toy biner ready.....
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
or use two biners to adjust length, or only clip into one loop. right?
zardoz

Trad climber
Austin, TX
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:02pm PT
Clove hitch engaged! Thanks bros. You is indubitably indespensible.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
"5. Buy adjustable daisies."

Adjustable daisies (which I love for aid climbing) aren't remotely as strong as a regular pocketed daisy used correctly as Fish illustrates.

PEace

Karl
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:05pm PT
I have yet to see the video? How is it possible that biner will come off the daisy?
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
Umm... we should... ummm... do nothing and see how many of us die.
susan peplow

climber
Winner of Diet Challenge!!!
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:09pm PT
Is that my locker your using for these 1600+ pound tests?

Hummmm
Corey Fields

Trad climber
Texas
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:11pm PT
"If I could clean up my desk I could find the BS data on Adjutables and failures."

That would be a nice comparison. I've been looking for those numbers. Or any link to failure tests on adjustables (ancra design).
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:28pm PT
Some webbing and a bit of tape. HOLY F*#KING SH#T!

Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:30pm PT
I recall seeing that Metolious Adjustables are only rated to 300lbs. Bodyweight for aid, not meant for anchoring.
Landgolier

climber
the flatness
Apr 27, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
how about this rig? Variation of that last rig russ posted. Could also be done by tacking the blue webbing all through one set of tacks. Actually that would be better now that I think about it. It's basically making the last link of the chain a full-strength grab loop, so that rather than tacks you have actual webbing that would have to blow for the grand finale blowout to happen.

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