Discussion Topic |
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 24, 2006 - 10:20pm PT
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Du-ude.
Hey, I'm lost in the 'Neb now.
No shoes, no shirt, no chalkbag.
Which way is up?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 10:27pm PT
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leave this to me, 'tar. although the pace will slow, the 'neb will go. wade back in when your dilithium crystals have been refurbished...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 24, 2006 - 10:38pm PT
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Cool beebs, cuz I'm all amorphous and gooey-like.
No Lie, I put up the last dozen photos on the JT Dinosaur-Fest, scanning, chopping, loading: all mousework done with my right foot!
In the End, Dexterity Prevails.
(btw: you meant to exclude the 90+ post 'neb number 13?)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 24, 2006 - 11:33pm PT
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Since my scanner and slide scanner are down... here are some nice retreads:
Got to get the Tardy and BVB heads in there soon... maybe some of them old fellers from the JT party too....
Iron Hawk. Slimprice SPAM for the 3rd night in a row.
Keeping the mad mad mad world in balance:
EE on Aquarian:
Ed Sampson on Mescalito. WTF??????
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 24, 2006 - 11:50pm PT
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Muss Wadd: Bwhahahaha!
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Ouch!
climber
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Apr 24, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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You guys oughta burn all these pics to DVDs or VCDs and add music, so you can view them on TV. Makes a cool thing.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 25, 2006 - 12:09am PT
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that's a great idea; most of my runs have a narrative feel.
there a muss wadd of material here for sure...
i'd like to do it just as they stand, posts and all.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 25, 2006 - 12:11am PT
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Working on it Ouch.... working on it. My copyright lawyer is out of town right now, but when he gets back, I'll fire up the laser.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Apr 25, 2006 - 12:14am PT
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Is that the famous russian navy surplus ledge on Iron Hawk? Man that mofonker looks heavy
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 25, 2006 - 12:16am PT
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Not Russian. Those would have been too light. That is a US Navy issue bunk son. They only weighed about 13lbs. Not too bad really. The ones from Curry were steel, and they were more like 30!!
edit: the 9mm adjusting system added a few lbs too! Cave man, cave....
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Apr 25, 2006 - 12:33am PT
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So no commie iron on the captain then. Bummer, it would go with the hammer theme. Could that rig be taken down, or were the choices limited to hucking it or rapping with it?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 25, 2006 - 12:56am PT
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solid design... no removable parts. Toss or carry. Usually toss.
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 26, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
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Rick Piggot on a lead attempt of Phd at Mt. Woodson...circa 1988-89
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 26, 2006 - 10:02pm PT
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Here's another shot of him...just before he ripped the pitch from the crux (still well above him in this photo) and nearly wiped out Lydia (aka the Pocket Russian) belaying at the base. Walked away.
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 26, 2006 - 10:27pm PT
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Here's a very young Chris Lindner soloing the Woodson classic, Robbin's Crack (10a), spotted by his Dad and Rick Piggot...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2006 - 11:01pm PT
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hey mini, me and jvb were with rick and lydia when he fell and decked...but i don't remember anyone else being there! this was before the bolt got put in, and he fell pretty much off the last move onto tcu's stuffed into the wafer thin flake...POP..POP..POP..POP..POP..
i do remeber the dull thud he made when he hit, a few seconds of stunned silence from the three of us, i'm getting ready to run for an ambulance, then lydia yelps "FUKK!!", then rick slowly sits up, gives us a sheepish look, and says "well, that was pretty embarrasing..." this after a 40' groundfall.
that dude was stout.
he hurt his wrist, but that was about it. he fired a couple of laps on retropulsion as we were walking down the hill.
good times.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 27, 2006 - 12:19am PT
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wow, thats a bit of a cake topper for the hole swole woodson aspect of the mussy thread!
beebs, you still need to paste in the link to part 13.
(I know, it's come down to each of us policing one another's link slack/prowess; that's boss geritol buddy stuff...)
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 12:22am PT
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Hey BvB,
I woulda been the punk ass 18/19 year old kid up the hill with the camera...yeah that really WAS good times...i'll never forget the sound of that gear ripping or his meat slapping the deck. As I recall, he complained about having to swing a hammer the next day and that was about it. He was triple-x bad ass. I have pictures of him on the 2nd attempt too, same Metallica/red tights combo, but with bolt bag in tow, hanging off a hook, etc. Pretty much everything i ever learned about climbing was from that crew--Rick, Lydia, Donny, Dan. No wonder I was always scared shitless. I miss those days of tunneling through the brush with my clippers looking for the next great project--even though I couldn't tick 3/4 of the problems already established. hah.
let me know if you want to see other ancient shots...I'll scan and post as I'm able.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 02:23am PT
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jebus, bring 'em, mini. the stuff we were pullin off at woodson was some of the most intense of our lives....i just about pissed myself when i saw that pic of rick....i figured you were a lurkin' lydia...but she was belaying rick....if you got more woodson pics, you owe it to us to get 'em digitized and on the record...!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 02:53am PT
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I posted this link elsewhere, but it should probably really go here....
[url="http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/doc/Premium_Miniatures.txt"]Premium Minatures by Bob Van Belle[/url]
The Dandy Warhols' Thirteen Tales from Urban Bohemia made a good sound track for typing this article in...
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 09:56am PT
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Yes Mini, those are great shots and stories. Anything else you can scan and post will be eagerly gobbled up by us residents of this musty mussy realm.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 27, 2006 - 11:09am PT
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yes mini:
post up.
as i recall yer pretty handy with the ol' cave cutn' paste art modality as well.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 11:29am PT
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Mini - Insane shots of the young Chris Lindner soloing! ...especially that side shot, whew! keep 'em coming, jb
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 27, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
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Don't worry Charles.... I'm not doing a "Reed Bartlett" on ya. Nice one Mini!
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:51pm PT
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Reed Bartlett? Hmm?
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jclimb
Trad climber
Durango, Co
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Apr 27, 2006 - 09:00pm PT
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Uhm...what exactly is that rope tied to, Russ?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 09:45pm PT
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must...have...more...WOODSON!!!!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 09:54pm PT
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the illustrious mungeclimber contemplates the crux sequence for kevin powell's 1977 woodson masterwork, lemon chiffon...hands down, one of the best slabs in soCAL.
(used to feel hard in scats, btw.)
mungie on the right side of the t.v. screen.
much to my amazement, i discovered over the JT weekend that KP's magnus opus project, "Emergency Broadcast System", up the center of the flat face, was never completed.
i'm going back with the best new-age edging shoes money can buy, a stack of metolius xxl pads, and a shitload of oldskool attitude, and SEND the beshizzle in tha early june drizzle.
werd to ya mutha, brotha. finally gonna be a PLAYA.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 27, 2006 - 10:00pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 10:11pm PT
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wtf?? boulder 13 at night...?
no...BAD ASS MOMMA?????
damn...confused....need more whisky to restore clarity......
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 10:13pm PT
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*hic*
shot of macallan 18 cleared that right up.
mosdef B-13. what's with the flash camera?? that's AID, sukka.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 28, 2006 - 12:54am PT
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no tick marks, no tape, no mohawk. Onsight flash at night... ho hum.....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2006 - 01:10am PT
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oh baybeeeee..you da man. can the 'natrix have your genetically altered love children??
p.s.: PATCHOULI scented hairfarmer (you), or simple, to-the-point mohawk (knew kidz on the block)??
i report, you decide.
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 01:42am PT
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haaaa, hairfarmer...meanwhile, back in Electric Mussyland...dude, what kind of gasses were coming out of that tubing when it was ground...haaarriiiighttt.
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 12:40pm PT
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More Woodson and whatnot...
So here's the start of Rick's 40 foot tour, Lydia on belay. Note the Hammer of Justice t-shirt that seemed to be his trademark for some time...nice swami, too.
The jingus gear...
From here is where he ripped the FIRST time, this time, setting up for drilling
Ahhh, the ping of the rawl...
Hey, STFU down there...
I guess that about rounds out the saga. He pulled the cord, lead the thing, skipped the evil pin scar, badaboom. Not sure who if anyone ever lead the thing again.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Apr 28, 2006 - 12:47pm PT
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Cool shots! That's my mentor in those pics.
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 12:50pm PT
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Then there was this thing...I can't remember what it was called. It wasn't at Woodson, it was north of Escondido about 20 minutes maybe...just past the big arched bridge on the 15...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 28, 2006 - 12:51pm PT
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Why is your mentor drilling on a crack?
(thought I'd get in here before AlDude)
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Apr 28, 2006 - 01:01pm PT
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Yeah, Why is my mentor drilling on a crack?
I believe that last shot was of Seal Rock, a 5.11 gem.
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 01:31pm PT
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I guess because he ripped to the deck from there on the first attempt when the micro brass ripped from the flare. In retrospect I don't know why anyone ever tried to lead any of the stuff up there. "Someone" bothered to bolt up Uncertainty Principle, for instance--quickly chopped. Ray O. bolted the sh#t out of a thing that lived in the brush he called "Silver Stream"...named because it had to have so many bolts so you wouldn't hit the deck on it after each successive move. besides that, it was A0 to start the thing. The first woodson 5.10a A0? The Sineater was nailed, then throughly comfortized and had expoxied in pins...then "someone" straight up bolted/sika'd a shiteload of holds on some overhanging boulders to make a "gym." People did some wacky ass sh#t down there. So anyhoo, I reckon that's why he drilled by the seam. Woodson lore will always be wrapped up in brush, bullsh#t, the drill and chisel. Still some kick ass stuff to climb though and them was those days.
Nahhh, Grug, it's not seal rock...it was this lower outcrop on the east side of the highway...it wasn't a boulder, it was a rock band bulging out of the hillside. I think we trespassed through some avocado grove to get to it...
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 01:40pm PT
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Yer various "questionable" Woodson routes...
Here's "someone" climbing Hairdo or Cooljerk ( i dont recall as they are right next to eachother). The crux "knob" on this thing blew up, but people would try to glue it back on. It would get passed from person to person. I think finally someone tried to screw it in or something. I don't know if its even still there, or the bolts. Anyone? Anyone?
Then there was this thing...a seam in a dark corridor, somewhere around Long's crack I think...a Ray O project.
all this stuff was happening in the mid-late 80s...i left S.D. in 1990.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Apr 28, 2006 - 07:17pm PT
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Getting back to Rick's 40 foot fall. Man, I broke my back falling off of Generator Crack in 1995 - only 22 feet. I was told by my doctor, that they will automatically x-ray your whole damn body for any falls over 20 feet.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2006 - 07:34pm PT
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hmmmm....guess i'm way overdue for about 700 toe-to-skillcap x-rays.....
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Robb
Social climber
Flathead Valley, Montana
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Apr 30, 2006 - 01:47am PT
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"not fade away"
BVB
Bro, the mirror tells the truth... we're all fadin' away!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Apr 30, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
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whoa, how'd I get into a mussy nebula thread?!
Voodshun!!! Und YA!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Apr 30, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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more Munge...
good times
Salad showing how to jam it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
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"not fade away"
BVB
Bro, the mirror tells the truth... we're all fadin' away!
speak for yerself, babe...everyday is a new dawn...
everytime i boot up i still bust like a bubble,
flag and woodson together man you know you're in trouble
ain't nuthin' but a B thing maynard
two dime size crimpers and i'm skyward
anasazis are the shoe that saved me
steep limestone has the movez that slay me...
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Apr 30, 2006 - 06:39pm PT
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I don't mean to be rude or anything Bob, but what came next?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
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twin toe hooks on the flake that allow you to match hands on the pretty damn good slopers on the lip, cut both feet loose while similtaneously doing a sick stomach crunch to kill the swing, then big "easy party" campus moves to a suspect bucket at the lip.
bring you feet up, mantle over, then fight off all the bouldering betties who are so stunned and amazed at your primeval prowess and animal magnatism they demand to do you on the spot.
(roubidoux 5.10a, on the outside. or woodson 5.11c. same as it ever was....)
somethin' like this....
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Apr 30, 2006 - 07:13pm PT
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I liked the part about the Betty and her friends--got pictures.
Oh, Robb, maybe just the two of us are fading away.
Cool move, Bob.
Transcend Life, Climb aka TL,C.
Best, Roger
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Leeeeeeeeedia, man.
Tom Lindner, I believe at Josh, not long after he got out of his back brace..note the F.R.O.G. chalkbag...
Woodson, eighties, euro-trash, Retropulsion...
I, Mini
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