Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 12:34am PT
|
I stopped soloing 19 years ago when my daughter was born. Things that didn't seem risky to me suddenly became unacceptable. My solo climbing was always well within my limits, at least two grades below what I could usually manage without falling on the lead. I just wanted to experience the joy and freedom that unencumbered climbing can provide, and I didn't want to be tense or scared. I still miss it. This shot (in the days before chalk bags on a famous Gunks 5.6) reflects, for me, some of happiness that flows from being comfortable in a vertical world.
|
|
Cloudraker
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 12:46am PT
|
great photo man. Looks like you're soloing in hiking boots...hardcore.
|
|
rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 12:52am PT
|
"Looks like you're soloing in hiking boots..."
Old farts will recognize them as Robbins Shoes. Stiff platform sole, non-sticky rubber. State of the art.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2006 - 01:03am PT
|
RGold:
That's Bitchin!
(Note use of period slang)
Until just recently I had a stash of Robbins boots which I used for soloin' 4th class thru 5.6 in my local mountains, the Indian Peaks set below (South) of Rocky Mtn Park.
I'm more concerned about being approached by a Puma than I am of falling, for real!
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 03:53am PT
|
Yep, one of the best photos I've ever seen in terms of spirit...
You're lucky to have one of such a fine flow. Good for you.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2006 - 09:59am PT
|
"I'm gonna git my biscuits in that gravy while it's still Hot!"
 Paul Newman as tuff-#ss cowboy in "Hud".
Apparently JB's gravy is still hot and I say that's good livin'.
thesiger: good call on John Arran.
Thanks Karl- I'm going to your links now...
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 12:29pm PT
|
Rgold's pic speaks.
Too bad some of these photo-whizes were not following him around once upon a time.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
|
The Baba/W Column and Arran/Jules V links just above are geat reads.
(I'm going to chalk up, walk around on flat ground for a bit and bless my lucky stars!)
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
|
tar-baby, this chalking up on flat ground, it could be the first signs of a real problem.
Get help, before it is too late!
|
|
Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
|
Claudio Barbier's one-day linkup of 6 big north-face routes at the Tre Cime, circa 1970. Including the Comici on Grande and the Cassin on Ovest. Cordless.
The story goes that Reinhold Messner, at his Dolomite prime in the day, attempted to repeat and bailed midway, referring to Barbier as a "madman." That's tall props.
Edit: 5 routes, not 6.
1961, not '70.
http://www.claudiobarbier.be/exploit.html
|
|
bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 02:36pm PT
|
rgold - killer photo! thanks...I love solo pictures. cheers, jb
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 02:56pm PT
|
Here one of my buddy doing a deep water solo in Hawaii. The impressive thing to me is that it's at his limiit, and he's no punk kid. We did a bunch of hiking there and he kicked my butt every time.
Climb goes on for 40 more feet with the crux at the top. He tried to get me on it but "No way!"
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
|
I once had an encounter with a soloist that pissed me off no end. I think it was spring of '81 or '82, in Joshua Tree. Free solo had become a bit of fashion statement to a bunch of wannabes, and JT was ground zero for the trend.
Anyway, I was taking someone up a 5.8 on the west side of Intersection, The Flake I think? I've led the first pitch, I'm sitting at the belay ready to bring Billy up. Billy's a little nervous, since 5.8 was not easy for him, and as I take in the rope his shaky voice comes flotating up, "I'm going to have to wait for a bit."
I'm wondering what's going on, but being a private sort I didn't really want to bellow my business all about HVCG, so I patiently wait, keeping the belay taut. Then this guy comes soloing up the route.
What's the deal, this noxious dickcheese is so full of himself that he's just got to solo between the leader and follower on a short route? Am I supposed to be impressed this guy can solo 5.8? He mumbles something as he starts to move past my ledge, and the imp of the perverse whispers in my ear, "It's just you and him on the ledge, no one is looking, one swift kick will cure this guy of all that ails him."
Needless to say, I let the moment pass, and simply mutter back, "as#@&%e." Incarceration really wouldn't suit me. Soloing can be cool, but it's a bad mix with egotistical posturing.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
|
All too true Doug-
But do you have any solo pics featuring the bunny ears headset?
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
|
That's a nice pic Karl, did his pants get wet?
|
|
Ouch!
climber
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 05:15pm PT
|
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 05:42pm PT
|
Clark
|
|
UberBabs1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 02:57pm PT
|
Hey dirtineye: Why would you say that pc would or could be wasting his time talking to me? Am I not worthy or am I insensitive? Just askin' . . .
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!