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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 22, 2006 - 02:27pm PT
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There is a good thread going by DMT on the aspects of risk and consequence involved in Free Solo.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=182107&f=0&b=0
Ya Babee!
When 'Yer plugged in, there's nothing like it, especially when it's the delectable on sight variety of Solo Experience.
I pose this as a place to celebrate one of the most core and soulful aspects of our beloved passtime.
Some Terrific Historical Efforts:
(just to get things started, please suggest some others)
Charlie Fowler -DNB
J Long -East Butt El Cap
JB -Moratorium
Walt Shipey -Keeler Needle
P Croft -Astroman
A Huber -Cima Grande
That neet guy who did the Lightning Bolt Cracks on N Six Shooter. (Rannan Otzurk sp?)
*most anything* touched by J Bachar, D Hersey, P Croft, D Potter, M Reardon.
After work a couple times a week, when I was a guide in Yos and living in Tuolomne, I'd do Fairview's N Face. The awsome light, perfect locks, airy face section. Ya Man. I'd usually stop for a pipeload on the big ledge after the face crux and just lean back against the wall in full lounge mode taking it all in...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Apr 22, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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Horseshoes and Handgrenades,12a,Tuolumne :Croft,onsight
Solitary Confinement,5.9?!!Tuolumne: Bachar,onsight FA
Jannu,North Face.11a,M?,in mountain boots!! " ",Cesen
Polygrip,11a,Pieshop - super thin slab:Kurt Rasmussen.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 03:50pm PT
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mid week, mid-summer, end of day, Fairview would be totally vacant and I felt like a lone sailor moving about in the rigging of a giant sloop...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 05:49pm PT
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I really enjoy the Dano footage that is available.
Notwithstanding what looked to be some shakes at the crux of Gun Club, his movement was puntuated with rapidity and power; he climbed with an aggresive rythm and it is inspiring to see.
Years ago in JT, a bunch of us were at the S Crack and the Fish took a bold whipper. We gang led the route, 5.11, and Dano, way prior to his solo career, said after getting his TR ride, "Gee, that was cool, I thought about soloing, but...nah".
In later times he did all that type of thing and more.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 22, 2006 - 06:44pm PT
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Tar-baby, you really like watching free solo action?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 06:50pm PT
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I like doing it more.
I like watching when it's done well.
I saw Yabo on numerous shakefests and most of those didn't bother me. His deal on the Beaver, which I did not see, I definitely would not have enjoyed.
When I look at the video of Dano, yes, I enjoy it very much.
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Wayne Burnes
climber
west coast
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Apr 22, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
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Clark Jacobs floating up Flower of High Rank on a breezy afternoon.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 07:08pm PT
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Nice one Wayne!
Clark and I did that together, along with Johnny Quest quite a few times.
Clark is a breeze on the stone!
I liked Dirt daddy's question: do we really like watching it.
Largo said something astute, like -you have to do it to understand it. So true. When I watch a good soloist, I can reference their internal experience to my own, so I sense their raw contact and all that good stuff.
As Mark Twight said, to paraphrase, Survival is one of the Noblest of Actions: Steve McQueen's character in "Le Mans" said, again to paraphrase -For those who do it, it is life, everything else is just waiting.
(whew! tres macho, but penetrating nonetheless).
So, having insight to the experience, I really do enjoy seeing a fine performance.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Apr 22, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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Hersey, 3xDiamond
About ten years ago I was walking up toward something on Red Garden and spied some cat pulling the Vertigo roof with a rap line hanging off him. Props, dude, whoever you are.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 22, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
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For many years I free soloed almost every day. Sometimes I would wonder if I would live to see the end of the day. Sometimes after much free soloing I would wake up at 2 or 3 in the morning from the adrenaline.
Now .... I'm happy just to use a rope.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 07:17pm PT
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whew!
Nice Reportage Werner.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 07:24pm PT
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Jane Klein, the First Solo of Pillar of Dreams in Meteora Greece. Airy, juggy, multi pitch, with face way off the deck, offwidth crux...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Apr 22, 2006 - 08:10pm PT
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Kauk at the base of Middle Cathedral, Bachar ANYWHERE in the Meadows. These two guys made me appreciate the "movement" involved in climbing. "Dancing on a vertical stage" is what I use to think watching them! Thanks for giving me a style in which to strive for Ronnie And John!
Peace
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kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
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Apr 22, 2006 - 08:13pm PT
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I think Joe's right about that guy Robert probably being the all-time king- very under reported in the U.S. Earl Wiggins on an early repeat of the Scenic Cruise is quite amazing (something about those really long routes seems to garner more respect). I also like Joe's implicit point about the Rostrum never having been soloed as all have opted for the Blind Faith finish. I once heard Dano was saving the Rostrum for the onsight solo. Anyone know if he ever sent it?
When I was learning to climb in the early 80's in JT Bachar was ubiquitous, soloing all over the campground. Left Ski Track, Right Ski Track, North Overhang, Judas, Spiderline, Surrealistic Pillar. All while we were hanging out eating breakfast. He raised the bar so high, so early on, it's hard to even comprehend.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 22, 2006 - 09:14pm PT
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tar-baby, I just never think of it as a spectator sport.
I don't want to watch, and I don't want to be watched.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 10:07pm PT
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In part, what makes this a compeling topic is the fringe and taboo nature of risking life for pleasure.
I see core soloists as intelligent people, putting themselves at great risk for an intensily rewarding experience which is highly wagered and not easily won. If you guage the value of an experience by it's correspondent investment and sacrifice, then clearly for the people who solo, there is a high implicit value at hand for sure. It's much different from getting a risky high from drugs or alcohol beacuse it is so precise, so active.
For Walt, soloing was like a balm, an antidote. Sounds like a tough way to live, put that was Walt and I'd say it served him quite well.
Having known Derek, my take was that his sense of urgency towards a life intensely lived just put him in a place where that brutal honesty was all worth it. I think Derek won.
Guys fall out of stuff, for sure. Many people concentrate their soloing in the hearts of their career. Hard soloing is risky, but the low percentage of failure is real enough and gets most people through for quite a while...
My harder solo days are over and yes, I feel a bit like I got away with something. Now as it happens, 90% of my climbing is either easy highball or easy 5th class solo, but I don't consider myself a soloist.
(how whacked is that?!)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 10:13pm PT
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But back to bare bones appreciation:
Late 70's, JT, every Friday night for a century, the Sheep Buggerers and the Joe Boys (you know who you are), mob soloing Intersection Rock at night. Flashlights, beers rattling, and banter enough to keep Ranger Jan Dick fuming for eternity...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 10:27pm PT
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and yes dirt in eye, for the most part it seems best done in total solitude...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 22, 2006 - 10:29pm PT
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See Tar-baby, you admire soloists.
I do not have that word for soloing or soloists.
Abouth the only concrete thought I find in myself about solos is, "I will do this. It's calling me."
HAHA, the other thoughts are, "NO FVCKING WAY!", and, "Down climb now."
I should say those used to be my thoguhts, I doubt that I will ever solo anything again, except for easy boudler highballs. But you never know.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 11:52pm PT
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'nice!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 23, 2006 - 12:34am PT
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I stopped soloing 19 years ago when my daughter was born. Things that didn't seem risky to me suddenly became unacceptable. My solo climbing was always well within my limits, at least two grades below what I could usually manage without falling on the lead. I just wanted to experience the joy and freedom that unencumbered climbing can provide, and I didn't want to be tense or scared. I still miss it. This shot (in the days before chalk bags on a famous Gunks 5.6) reflects, for me, some of happiness that flows from being comfortable in a vertical world.
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Cloudraker
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 23, 2006 - 12:46am PT
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great photo man. Looks like you're soloing in hiking boots...hardcore.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 23, 2006 - 12:52am PT
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"Looks like you're soloing in hiking boots..."
Old farts will recognize them as Robbins Shoes. Stiff platform sole, non-sticky rubber. State of the art.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2006 - 01:03am PT
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RGold:
That's Bitchin!
(Note use of period slang)
Until just recently I had a stash of Robbins boots which I used for soloin' 4th class thru 5.6 in my local mountains, the Indian Peaks set below (South) of Rocky Mtn Park.
I'm more concerned about being approached by a Puma than I am of falling, for real!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 23, 2006 - 03:53am PT
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Yep, one of the best photos I've ever seen in terms of spirit...
You're lucky to have one of such a fine flow. Good for you.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2006 - 09:59am PT
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"I'm gonna git my biscuits in that gravy while it's still Hot!"
 Paul Newman as tuff-#ss cowboy in "Hud".
Apparently JB's gravy is still hot and I say that's good livin'.
thesiger: good call on John Arran.
Thanks Karl- I'm going to your links now...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 23, 2006 - 12:29pm PT
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Rgold's pic speaks.
Too bad some of these photo-whizes were not following him around once upon a time.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
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The Baba/W Column and Arran/Jules V links just above are geat reads.
(I'm going to chalk up, walk around on flat ground for a bit and bless my lucky stars!)
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 23, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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tar-baby, this chalking up on flat ground, it could be the first signs of a real problem.
Get help, before it is too late!
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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Apr 23, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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Claudio Barbier's one-day linkup of 6 big north-face routes at the Tre Cime, circa 1970. Including the Comici on Grande and the Cassin on Ovest. Cordless.
The story goes that Reinhold Messner, at his Dolomite prime in the day, attempted to repeat and bailed midway, referring to Barbier as a "madman." That's tall props.
Edit: 5 routes, not 6.
1961, not '70.
http://www.claudiobarbier.be/exploit.html
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 23, 2006 - 02:36pm PT
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rgold - killer photo! thanks...I love solo pictures. cheers, jb
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 23, 2006 - 02:56pm PT
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Here one of my buddy doing a deep water solo in Hawaii. The impressive thing to me is that it's at his limiit, and he's no punk kid. We did a bunch of hiking there and he kicked my butt every time.
Climb goes on for 40 more feet with the crux at the top. He tried to get me on it but "No way!"
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 23, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
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I once had an encounter with a soloist that pissed me off no end. I think it was spring of '81 or '82, in Joshua Tree. Free solo had become a bit of fashion statement to a bunch of wannabes, and JT was ground zero for the trend.
Anyway, I was taking someone up a 5.8 on the west side of Intersection, The Flake I think? I've led the first pitch, I'm sitting at the belay ready to bring Billy up. Billy's a little nervous, since 5.8 was not easy for him, and as I take in the rope his shaky voice comes flotating up, "I'm going to have to wait for a bit."
I'm wondering what's going on, but being a private sort I didn't really want to bellow my business all about HVCG, so I patiently wait, keeping the belay taut. Then this guy comes soloing up the route.
What's the deal, this noxious dickcheese is so full of himself that he's just got to solo between the leader and follower on a short route? Am I supposed to be impressed this guy can solo 5.8? He mumbles something as he starts to move past my ledge, and the imp of the perverse whispers in my ear, "It's just you and him on the ledge, no one is looking, one swift kick will cure this guy of all that ails him."
Needless to say, I let the moment pass, and simply mutter back, "as#@&%e." Incarceration really wouldn't suit me. Soloing can be cool, but it's a bad mix with egotistical posturing.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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All too true Doug-
But do you have any solo pics featuring the bunny ears headset?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 23, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
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That's a nice pic Karl, did his pants get wet?
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Ouch!
climber
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Apr 23, 2006 - 05:15pm PT
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 23, 2006 - 05:42pm PT
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Clark
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UberBabs1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 24, 2006 - 02:57pm PT
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Hey dirtineye: Why would you say that pc would or could be wasting his time talking to me? Am I not worthy or am I insensitive? Just askin' . . .
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 03:13pm PT
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TGT:
That's a great Clark Shot. Johnny Quest? Whatever it may be; as noted by me upthread, we were doing solos together 20 years ago. This pic looks much more recent, so it captures the span of Clark's Love for the activity very nicely.
Cheers,
Roy
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cintune
climber
Penn's Woods
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Apr 24, 2006 - 03:16pm PT
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Off White wrote:
"this noxious dickcheese."
That's too f*#king funny. You shoulda messed with him just a little and yelled "rock" when he wasn't looking.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 10:24pm PT
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"A Man's Gotta Know His Limits"
-from The Outlaw Josie Wales (an army of one).
Or some such Clint Vehicle.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 24, 2006 - 11:45pm PT
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That photo was from maybe two years ago at most. It's the Flower, shot by raping the adjacent route.
Princessropegun was having a high gravity day and Clark of course could not pass up an opportunity to impress the lady.
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
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Apr 25, 2006 - 03:11am PT
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What exactly does "deep water soloing" qualify as? Is there anywhere to do it in southern California (preferably around Orange County area?) Thanks!
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 28, 2007 - 10:47pm PT
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Never read this one. Worth a bump. I found ST in june 06
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 30, 2010 - 01:53pm PT
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buuuuump
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Mar 31, 2010 - 08:26pm PT
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I used to solo alot when I was younger-I'm 64 now. After soloing a few 5.9s on Cathedral Ledge about 8 years ago, I decided that was enough. One of my memorable times was soloing Mt.Blanc in February from Chamonix Valley, back in 1971. It was quite a slog-the snow being pretty deep in places. There was alot of icy places up higher.
The best part of this story is that one of the Huts was open-and vacant of course. There were some oak cask full of wine and I decided to sample the local vintage. It was unusually warm, sunny and no wind. I sat out on the tin roof and after having one too many, I realized that it would better to wait another day before going down. I had a few close calls, falling in hidden crevases etc. and realize that in hindsight; this was a dumb thing to do. The ignorance of youth!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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How we miss Ouch!
What a great solo shot!!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 16, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
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That was a great read. Thanks Tarbuster.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 16, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
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No worries Tarbuster. Thanks for posting up. I liked this part of one of your earlier posts on this thread:
I see core soloists as intelligent people, putting themselves at great risk for an intensily rewarding experience which is highly wagered and not easily won. If you guage the value of an experience by it's correspondent investment and sacrifice, then clearly for the people who solo, there is a high implicit value at hand for sure. It's much different from getting a risky high from drugs or alcohol beacuse it is so precise, so active.
Maybe people have more to add in terms of thoughts, stories or pics. I like this thread more than the other two you linked because its not necessarily about going big & ballsy, or about the morbid possibilities of the craft. This thread to me is about recognizing & celebrating a beautiful art form.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 16, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
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Not much into soloing anymore, never really was, but sometimes I do.
Sometimes it feels right.
A few years ago I was in Josh for a Gordo fundraiser.
It was hot and the taco people I was camped around were resting, hiking, or drinking.
I hadn't soloed the Eye in ages but it was in the shade, so what the hell.
Felt good but damn it was hot in the sun. So I went to some old bouldering circuits and still felt good but I needed some solid shade. Made my way over to Hemingway for some easy bouldering, lovin' it. Found a nice rock in the shade to recline on and watch some slow mo sports action on Hemingway, ended up dozing off. When I woke up there wasn't a soul around and the temps were perf. I put my shoes on and fondled the first holds on White Lightning, a route I hadn't done in 20 years. Next thing I know I'm halfway up the line, cruisin'.
Realizing I was however high up I was I turned around and faced outward. Long shadows, wispy clouds, and the north wonderland, magic light. There was nowhere in the world I'd rather be at that moment. It's that feeling that's nearly ineffable and it's right where you want to be when the stakes are high, where you need to be when the crux is coming and you don't have a rope.
That night the party at Gordo's was rad.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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Awesome share Jefe, thanks.
Sounds like good memories.
I like to solo sometimes, but sometimes i go without for long periods of time, & sometimes i do it all the time. Sometimes I want to, but I walk up to the rock & touch it then turn around and go back home because it seems like the right thing to do.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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Apr 17, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
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I believe this is the photo missing from rgold post above. Apr 22, 2006 - 09:34pm PT
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