Look Out! Danger!... Or... "Look Out! Weak Sauce."

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Messages 801 - 808 of total 808 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WBraun

climber
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:46am PT
"It took me from 15 to 17 hours to complete a pitch."

There it is;

It takes 15 to 17 hours to complete a pitch and then it's confirmed it's A6. (heavy sarcasm) :-)

Anyways ..... kinda funny and stupid.

And I'm stupid for even giving it any thought to begin with ...

crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 11, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Here's an article from Barabbas (an online climbing store in Spain) by Palmada about Hot-Parad-Ice.

Credit: crunch

Credit: crunch

Credit: crunch

Credit: crunch

Credit: crunch

Credit: crunch

Credit: crunch

Hey, Rivet Hanger, what's MO+ mean (on the topo, first pitch)?

Also, maxima vibracion. "vibracion"? Is this some spanish or catalonian climbing slang?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 11, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
... y entro en un estado de bloqueo mental...

Well, at least he was honest on that point.
Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Barcelona
Oct 11, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
No, MD+ comes from the classic alpinism rating used in Europe (sorry, don't know if you use it in the States). Originally from French TD (très difficile) translated as MD (molt difícil in Catalan and muy difícil in Castilian).
As he didn't know exactly how to rate the first pitch of Hot parad'ice since he repeated Weird Science after and trying not to awake the abnormal beast that dwells inside some individuals but at the same time as a deep sarcasm, he rated the pitch as MD+.

You can alse see the digital version of this magazine here: http://www.barrabes.com/actualidad/e_cuadernos/CT_64/flash.html

I disagree on your interpretation between way and route (I may be wrong having in account English isn't my mother language). For me are clearly different things and the context leaves that clear.

Since my point of view, although the tight limits on number of words in AAj, among others, I find really disappointing that you didn't even mentioned Pelut made the SA of Weird Science...

And to others, buy Jensen's book (yeah, that object made of paper with ink marks and few drawings inside) wings of steel and if you don't get asleep after the third page yuo'll find out how much took Smith (because he made the tougher pitches, btw!) to complete a pitch on that route...
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
No, MD+ comes from the classic alpinism rating used in Europe (sorry, don't know if you use it in the States). Originally from French TD (très difficile) translated as MD (molt difícil in Catalan and muy difícil in Castilian).
As he didn't know exactly how to rate the first pitch of Hot parad'ice since he repeated Weird Science after and trying not to awake the abnormal beast that dwells inside some individuals but at the same time as a deep sarcasm, he rated the pitch as MD+

Pitch 1 (MD+) is A4.
Pitch 2 (A4+) is A3, maybe A3+. That's where the video if Pelut hammering a Pecker, like, 50 times, was taken.
Pitch 3 (A3) took me about 20 minutes. It's A1+.
Pitch 4 (A4+) is A3.
The rest is up and over the caprock. The usual annoying A1/5.9

We had it pretty easy. Pelut was careful to leave holes that were usable. And so many of them that we could pick and choose, ignore the more flared ones.

Click on me for full size!
Click on me for full size!
Credit: crunch
Joshua Johnson

Boulder climber
Boulder
Oct 11, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Mad Science pics?
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Oct 11, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
Where's Jeremy? And his mom
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 11, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
"Where's Jeremy?"

Jeremy Appreciation Thread, right here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2245357/Sensitive-New-Age-Guy-SNAG-Thread-OT
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