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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Apr 30, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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Coz said
I'm kind of a big deal but I'm not gonna spray about it.
I LOLed
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Whoa! Like someone go get that guy a shoe sponsorship or something....
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Mimi
climber
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Coz, not again! First, you're greener than YC and now you're telling the Golden One to sack down?! This is rich. Your post is about as transparent and disingenuous as it gets around here.
Didn't he and someone walk up Southern Belle last season and comment that it was casual? You don't have an ax to grind do ya?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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One Man's boredom is another Man's impossible
But there is this aspect of climbing that's like an adrenaline addiction, and drugs develop tolerance so it takes more and more to get as high.
Better hope that you can improve fast enough to stay ahead of the monkey on your back
I think Alex is a great guy and don't begrudge him risking his life on such an edge. We're eternal beings after all. But....don't have kids anytime soon bro..
Peace
Karl
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Ouch Mimi!!
Coz is gonna misspell some sh#t at you now!
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zBrown
Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
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This might clear it up. I don't think you can fault the technique, but the write up is a bit lacking.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Compare with this obviously green guy, who is hesitant unsure and perhaps overly grounded
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Some lizards are just more equal than other lizards.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Alex, if your listening,
get a job at 7/11 and raise some kids,
and keep plenty of dogs on those stainless steel rollers, because you never know when the iranian hot dog eaters will show up,
seriously, my buddy worked at the circle jerk on Nord in Chico, and every friday at 2 am, 4 iranian dudes would show up and buy 30 hot dogs, without buns, take them to their car and eat them. hopefully.
now this info does not come cheap, so i sure hope you appreciate it,
sandstone requires that you test the holds by pulling on them with more weight than you intend to apply for the next move,
this way you know the hold will hold, Doh!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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thats not a lump, thats my schlong,
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slayton
Trad climber
Here and There
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Soloing hard, bad ass routes, is incredible. Writing about them, publishing them for general consumption, is marketing. Marketing has its place for selling goods but when those goods are your brains and blood you better have the container of those brains screwed on pretty tight lest you lose what you're trying to sell.
I wish Alex the best on the path that he has chosen and whatever he chooses in the future.
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ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
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Alex,
You have said in some videos that you only want to solo as long as it is fun.
Perhaps this is a moment of truth.
Be careful...you play a very serious game. Maybee its time for a relationship.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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thats not a lump, thats my schlong,
Few things have made me laugh out loud like that.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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coz,
there are ways to get your point across without blowin yourself....but then you have never figured that out have you?
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sagot
Trad climber
Vancouver
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I'm just wondering why he wrote about it?
I bet Croft did 50 routes like that and never even talked about them.
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Cloudraker
Sport climber
San Diego, CA
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If I'm not mistaken Croft refused sponsorship BITD so had no reason/obligation to tell the world
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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Does PTC wear those shorty shorts out in public, or was that the only thing she could find in that bomb explosion of a room? Good christ, I hope your climbing gear, or your bivvy sites, aren't that sloppy.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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@Hawkeye,
Dood, IMO, Coz is right on.
And as far as Hondo being in...
another Realm
Anyone that has soloed and on sight soloed within a grade or less of their particular free-climbing ability has entered that realm. He may be the man of the hour whose ability, so far, transcends anyone else. But that is all temporal at best. What the issue seems to be is, what is the motivation. Why are you doing it. I believe it was Croft who, after he had soloed A-man and the Rostrum one afternoon, said that you better not be doing it for anyone else but yourself.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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It does seem kind of weird to share personal free soloing adventures so openly and to such a wide audience right after the ascent. But these days people share everything, so maybe Honnold's 'trip reports' are best understood in that context rather than trying to psychoanalyze how much of his soloing drive is good or bad, or whatever. I'm certainly not going to tell someone who climbs as well as Honnold that he's not capable, or that he will die. Honnold is the only one who can say if his soloing is negligent or if he's soloing for the wrong reason.
With that said, coz and WBraun can give some valuable insight into their own experiences.
However, I'm not sure if telling a driven and talented soloist that he is going to die, or that he shouldn't solo is a good tactic. Soloing is a black art, and soloists think for themselves. It's best not to challenge them so openly, IMHO, if you are trying to get them to notch it down a bit.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2012 - 05:17pm PT
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Anyone that has soloed and on sight soloed within a grade or less of their particular free-climbing ability has entered that realm.
He hasn't solo'd 5.14.
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Mimi
climber
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Coz, it's pretty obvious who needs to STFU. Your displaced ego is so blinding that you continue to make an idiot of yourself as indicated by your numerous Sage of the Next Generation diatribes. I can't tell if you're posting while drunk or you're just innately stupid.
Do you think Alex reads these posts or cares what people think about how he's pursuing his craft? If you're so worried about him, why not contact him directly instead of throwing your negativity down and telling the guy he's 'messed up'? WTF do you know about his mindset or MO to make such a statement? Because he writes about his adventures instead of being secretive? That doesn't automatically condemn his motives.
Many of us actually enjoy reading about this. He is a special climber to say the least. What he's doing should be appreciated, not scorned. If something should happen to him while he's doing this, so be it. Of course we all dread this possibility like we have for all of the great solo climbers. He knows what can happen!
I also disagree with your interpretation of what Werner meant so don't try to play that card.
Cheers,
Mimi
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