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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Did his partner suffer in silence next to a dead partner while the storytellers went back to sleep?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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The F*#king wind bivy at the base of Lost Arrow Spire. Hated that!
Prod.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 28, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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The partners of the deceased did not know till morning either. (At least three in the other party if I recall correctly)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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Mucci that crack and that rock look incredible! What is it? If you feel like telling.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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I watched the "Honeymoon suite" on the column get pummeled by a 45 sec S face rockfall. SQueen gave a good vantage point, this was at 6:00am and nobody on the ledge or routes. Pretty scary.
Death would have been assured.
While on the prow, Norweigan and I witness a decent size rockfall completely blanket the start to dinner ledge, and the base bivy.
We thought these 2 Brits were dead for sure. 30 sec go by and we start screaming down to them and another team on P1.
Somehow everybody was untouched. The Brits were soooo lucky.
Klaus- That's for the free climbers..
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photonez
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:35am PT
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I don't wanna die, but got damn I'd rather die on that bivy then in a car or somewhere like Burger King.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Feb 29, 2012 - 07:56am PT
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i was last night engaged in a domestic
bivy with my daughter, puttin her down for rest.
she snuggles up to me and swoons,
"you smell like daddy."
"oh yea. how's thay?" i inquire.
she pauses, kinda shy,
and says, "i won't say, daddy."
"come on maki. you wont hurt my feelings."
"oh. well, you smell like... i don't know how to say it."
"be honest, sweetie. im curious to what you have to share."
"daddy, you smell like camping."
"how's that, dear? do i smell of wood smoke?"
"no, not that. you smell like dirt."
i smile with pride and reply,
"oh makalu, that is a dear compliment to my heart.
it's like i'm bringing the mountains to you, in the house.
camping is better, no?"
"i like camping, dad. sometimes i wish you smelled
more like a house than like camping."
"well i guess you shoulda paid extra for a fresh smelling dad option.
good night love."
silence. and then some more silence. as she thinks things through.
then nothing but her soft sweet breaths that clearly tell me
she is restful.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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well, there was the kay bivvy. sweet.
then there was the linda bivvy. even sweeter.
then that biv with three other guys high on a steep couloir. i spent most of the night keeping one fella from falling into the little fire we'd built. he woulda rolled 300 feet.
then there was:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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Beautiful shot Walleye, but since when does a 'bivy' entail a tent?
That's camping. :-)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Damn walleye, that is the coolest camping shot I've ever seen! Didn't know you did commercial photog, do you have a website?
[edit - nm google lol]
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Feb 29, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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nice Walleye, that shot reminds me of when we went in to climb mt.lyell
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 29, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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McD: Think you scanned that slide backwards (judging by the print on the food)
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ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
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Weegian, remember Babbit Dawg. Sweet bivi local.
As the tallest climber I know (6'6") I have had a time finding some good bivies until I mastered the L shaped bivi. Now I sleep like a babe.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Feb 29, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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The base of Half Dome was pretty scary with nocturnal missiles landing nearby.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 29, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
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This was our home for 3 nites on CRS, much better than the recommended bivis, 1,000 feet down gully.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 29, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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guyman, are ya kidding?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 29, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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mucci
While on the prow, Norweigan and I witness a decent size rockfall completely blanket the start to dinner ledge, and the base bivy.
We thought these 2 Brits were dead for sure. 30 sec go by and we start screaming down to them and another team on P1. Was that about 1975? If so, my partner and I were nearing the top of the P1 slab and sheltered/cowered up against the steep part to avoid the missiles.
"killer", nearly, bivy in a snow cave in a moat around a huge boulder at the base of Shepard's Pass after losing our camp in an avalanche during the "100 year" blizzard. Fortunately the next AM was clear and we got ourselves out before the storm renewed with a vengeance that night.
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ec
climber
ca
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Quote
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 29, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
guyman, are ya kidding?
Munge Not kidding at all.... it's about 150 feet up on The Fin. A little 5.4 scrambling gets you up there. It even had running water.
darn i phone posting....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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oh whoa, I always thought that thing was a sloper ledge.
good to know.
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