Discussion Topic |
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
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Choosing a killer bivy is hard. Best is to find a spot where rockfall is certain during a storm, though sometimes difficult if you have not previewed the route.
I thought the whole enchalada above us was coming down.
Let's see your best KILLER BIVY!
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Feb 28, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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That's terrifying.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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yeah, seems like one rap, maybe two and you'd be down in that scree and stuff?? not that that looks much better.
a buddy and i were sleeping below NEB of Higher Cathedral (pretty plush spot) and we're both about to doze off early when we hear this whizzing and then a crash through the trees of a rock. It wasn't too close, but not too far away either. we moved a little bit thinking it would ease our minds and allow us to get to sleep. neither of us slept worth a damn' that night.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 28, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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ack ack
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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This was 500 feet up a route.
No way of seeing what was above till the 5th pitch started....
It's only 1 night....Jeez.
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corniss chopper
climber
breaking the speed of gravity
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
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A 'killer' vs non-killer bivy. Let me think...hmmmm.
If you got no choice that's it. Besides there's always tomorrow
to upgrade to a flat spot under a tree.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
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Nice bivy Mucci! I always say that stuffs been there for thousands of years, Im sure it won't come down......until tomorrow.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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Mucci! I love the play on words.
Only killer bivy I can easily locate photos of is this 1976, out of the way location on Mt. Deborah Alaska.
Looks so peaceful. There was about 8" of snow over hard water-ice, so it was secure.
However the bivy was at the top of this 9,000 Ft. spur peak of Mt. Deborah. We climbed the face in front to get there, and intended to continue up the North Ridge of Deborah the next day.
Luckily, we had a calm night. Can't imagine a storm hitting us there.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Kirkwood, ca
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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The bivy at the base of Half Dome is very scary. I don't think I'll bivy there again.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Temporarily Chapel Hill
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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Ditton, enjoimx. My buddy and I almost got clobbered in the middle of the night. We woke up in the middle of the night to baseball size chunks falling down all around us.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
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Mucci, that bivy is no bueno...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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The real "killer" bivy will be your last one. As luck would have it, you'll probably be asleep.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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i bivy whereever i pass out,
dirt nap bivy,
desperate bivy
bivy that just wont go away
killer bivy
tree soul bivy
further bivy
wee bivy
poachin bivy behind curry with a 4 month old
hero bivy
oregon coast bivy
nookie in the meadow bivy
phish lot bivy
cowboy bivy
she knows how to bivy
call-the-wife-im-gonna-be-late bivy
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corniss chopper
climber
breaking the speed of gravity
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
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BES1'st -yes. Pic taken from just north of the lakes outlet.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Feb 28, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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At first I was looking in the wrong place and was like, "What? seems like a fine biv......... oh"
GACK! seems like the best description thus far.
 - -
I remember reading somewhere (CMac maybe) saying that there was a time when people competed to setup their ledges on the worst possible anchors possible (backed up to the bomber anchor) with the culmination being someone setting up their portaledge on a hook and "sleeping" through the night wide-eyed and quick-breathed.
Any oldtimey pics of that?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Feb 28, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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pg13 bivy
no rock fall
but the stars they were falling
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 28, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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Killer bivy at Little Claire Lake NE of Mineral King. West side of Mt Whitney blown out in the sunset light.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 28, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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Norwegian has the best bivy's.
If they were all killer!
He'd be a legend by now.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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Cushy killer:
Excellent Adventure killer:
Rocks Please Stay Put killer:
We Both Saw Spirits of Our Dead Relatives After the Avalanche killer:
Reposting some old stuff, but it's what I got handy.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
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From the late 80s:
Two climbers I worked with, veterans of numerous bigwalls, returned with a chilling story.
They had bivied on a ledge with another party (Yosemite if my memory is correct) During the night they were awaken by rockfall in the dark. They returned to sleep thinking all was ok. In the morning they awoke to discover one of the members of the other party had died instantly in the rockfall when a large rock had landed on his chest.
That story, highlighting one of the dangers of big walls, stuck with me for many years.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Did his partner suffer in silence next to a dead partner while the storytellers went back to sleep?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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The F*#king wind bivy at the base of Lost Arrow Spire. Hated that!
Prod.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 28, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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The partners of the deceased did not know till morning either. (At least three in the other party if I recall correctly)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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Mucci that crack and that rock look incredible! What is it? If you feel like telling.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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I watched the "Honeymoon suite" on the column get pummeled by a 45 sec S face rockfall. SQueen gave a good vantage point, this was at 6:00am and nobody on the ledge or routes. Pretty scary.
Death would have been assured.
While on the prow, Norweigan and I witness a decent size rockfall completely blanket the start to dinner ledge, and the base bivy.
We thought these 2 Brits were dead for sure. 30 sec go by and we start screaming down to them and another team on P1.
Somehow everybody was untouched. The Brits were soooo lucky.
Klaus- That's for the free climbers..
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photonez
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:35am PT
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I don't wanna die, but got damn I'd rather die on that bivy then in a car or somewhere like Burger King.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Feb 29, 2012 - 07:56am PT
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i was last night engaged in a domestic
bivy with my daughter, puttin her down for rest.
she snuggles up to me and swoons,
"you smell like daddy."
"oh yea. how's thay?" i inquire.
she pauses, kinda shy,
and says, "i won't say, daddy."
"come on maki. you wont hurt my feelings."
"oh. well, you smell like... i don't know how to say it."
"be honest, sweetie. im curious to what you have to share."
"daddy, you smell like camping."
"how's that, dear? do i smell of wood smoke?"
"no, not that. you smell like dirt."
i smile with pride and reply,
"oh makalu, that is a dear compliment to my heart.
it's like i'm bringing the mountains to you, in the house.
camping is better, no?"
"i like camping, dad. sometimes i wish you smelled
more like a house than like camping."
"well i guess you shoulda paid extra for a fresh smelling dad option.
good night love."
silence. and then some more silence. as she thinks things through.
then nothing but her soft sweet breaths that clearly tell me
she is restful.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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well, there was the kay bivvy. sweet.
then there was the linda bivvy. even sweeter.
then that biv with three other guys high on a steep couloir. i spent most of the night keeping one fella from falling into the little fire we'd built. he woulda rolled 300 feet.
then there was:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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Beautiful shot Walleye, but since when does a 'bivy' entail a tent?
That's camping. :-)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Damn walleye, that is the coolest camping shot I've ever seen! Didn't know you did commercial photog, do you have a website?
[edit - nm google lol]
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Feb 29, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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nice Walleye, that shot reminds me of when we went in to climb mt.lyell
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 29, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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McD: Think you scanned that slide backwards (judging by the print on the food)
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ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
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Feb 29, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
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Weegian, remember Babbit Dawg. Sweet bivi local.
As the tallest climber I know (6'6") I have had a time finding some good bivies until I mastered the L shaped bivi. Now I sleep like a babe.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Feb 29, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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The base of Half Dome was pretty scary with nocturnal missiles landing nearby.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 29, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
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This was our home for 3 nites on CRS, much better than the recommended bivis, 1,000 feet down gully.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 29, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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guyman, are ya kidding?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 29, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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mucci
While on the prow, Norweigan and I witness a decent size rockfall completely blanket the start to dinner ledge, and the base bivy.
We thought these 2 Brits were dead for sure. 30 sec go by and we start screaming down to them and another team on P1. Was that about 1975? If so, my partner and I were nearing the top of the P1 slab and sheltered/cowered up against the steep part to avoid the missiles.
"killer", nearly, bivy in a snow cave in a moat around a huge boulder at the base of Shepard's Pass after losing our camp in an avalanche during the "100 year" blizzard. Fortunately the next AM was clear and we got ourselves out before the storm renewed with a vengeance that night.
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ec
climber
ca
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Quote
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 29, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
guyman, are ya kidding?
Munge Not kidding at all.... it's about 150 feet up on The Fin. A little 5.4 scrambling gets you up there. It even had running water.
darn i phone posting....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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oh whoa, I always thought that thing was a sloper ledge.
good to know.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jay wood said The base of Half Dome was pretty scary with nocturnal missiles landing nearby
ur right one landed 3 feet next to me. what a f*#k'n hazardous place to sleep.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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Spider, that ain't no bivy. That's called livin' large.
This is a bivy; almost a killer bivy...
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Sep 11, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
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Cham bivy with all the creature comforts.
Dinner Ledge bivy on my first wall, circa 1982.
Big Sandy Bivy on my second big wall.
Lake of the Clouds Bivy, NH Presidential Range.
Camp Slime bivy, da Gunks.
Eternal bivy (not mine!)
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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cave bivy was too small for a kitchen (view from outside):
Those-leaves-don't-give-enough-insulation-but-its-like-psychological-pro bivy:
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 11, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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Really exposed, no room for a tent
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 11, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
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What "night"?
:)
Some of the most beautiful things I've seen were during that purple haze of twilight after midnight in the AK range.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 11, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
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Once we bivied on a rib during a descent from a peak. We were exhausted and couldn't go any further. That night we were awakened by rockfall above us that happened over an over. We couldn't see the rocks - but we could see all of the sparks.
Freaky.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Sep 12, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Some bivies are killer. Others are Killers.
Most float somewhere between.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 12, 2012 - 07:46am PT
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Some more cold bivouacs on Denali during an attempt to establlish a new variation to Reality Ridge. We had 4 bivies in a row before we found a place large enough for a tent.
And then a really fun, planned bivouac the North Cascades...
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 12, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Those are some pretty spots SLR :)
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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I don't know if I could handle the "fish bowl effect"! ^^^^
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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It ain't a bivy if you've a tent - that's a campout. Jess sayin' ;-)
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Bump for a nice thread. Just tripping down memory lane and came across this video that I don't think I posted before:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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What the hay is that? A haulbag for the feet and butt, and a rucksack or sleeping bag cover with some slings wrapped around it for the shoulders? Imagine the dangling head while sleeping! Maybe just curled up down in the haulbag?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Mt Watkins trip made a really really nice video, Whitemeat! The last 20 seconds or so were too gripping for me, though.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Best bivi of my life with you and Stevo, Josh...you know where.
lars
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| Messages 1 - 64 of total 64 in this topic |
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